THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


H~o 


LAURA    FISH    JUDD. 


HONOLULU 


SKETCHES  OF  LIFE 


SOCIAL,  POLITICAL;  jAND  ^EpGIOUS, 


IN    THE    HAWAIIAN    ISLANDS 


FROM   1828  TO  1861. 


LAURA    FISH   JUDD. 

WITH    A    SUPPLEMENTARY    SKETCH    OF    EVENTS    TO    1880. 


NEW    YORK 
ANSON    D.    F.    RANDOLPH    &    COMPANY 


COPYRIGHT.   l88o,   BY 
ANSON  D.  F.   RANDOLPH  &  COMPANY. 


new  york: 

Edward  O.  Jenkins,  Printer, 

20  North  William  St. 


Add'l 
GIFT 


INTRODUCTORY    NOTE. 


As  the  reader  will  see,  this  book  is  not  designed  to  be 
a  history  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  It  does  not  occupy 
the  field  taken  by  the  historians  Dibble,  Bingham  or 
Jarves,  nor  that  of  the  later  writers,  Nordhoff,  Miss  Bird 
or  Mr.  Chaney.  My  mother's  narrative  is  a  compilation 
of  the  personal  recollections  of  one  who  had  rare  oppor- 
tunities for  observation  among  the  chiefs  and  people  of 
Hawaii  from  the  year  1828. 

The  intimate  connection  of  my  father  with  Hawaiian 
history  would  entitle  him  to  say  without  egotism,  "Quo- 
rum pars  magna  fui,"  and  this  work  is  occupied  so 
largely  with  describing  his  agency  in  building  the  ship 
of  State  of  this  little  kingdom,  that  it  may  be  regarded 
more  as  a  tribute  to  his  memory,  than  as  an  attempt  at 
history-writing. 

But  few  of  the  actors  in  the  scenes  portrayed  now 

survive,  and  the  twenty  years  that  have  elapsed  since 

they  were  written  have,  I  trust,  dulled  the  sensitiveness 

of  those  who  might  think  some  of  the  reflections  are 

too  severe  or  of  too  personal  a  nature  to  be  published. 

Every  new  fact  added  to  our  knowledge  is  valuable,  and 

I  have  withheld  none  from  this  record,  though  by  this 

(iii) 


835 


iv  Introductory  Note. 

course  I  may  possibly  excite  unfriendly  criticism.  In  a 
supplementary  chapter  I  have  brought  the  narrative  of 
events  down  to  the  present  time. 

The  Hawaiian  kingdom  still  stands  prosperous  and 
respected,  making  and  executing  its  own  laws,  its  auton- 
omy preserved.  It  occupies  but  a  little  share  of  the 
world's  attention,  but  it  presents  to-day  the  only  instance 
of  a  nation  lifted  from  the  darkness  of  heathenism  to  the 
light  of  Christian  civilization  without  the  destruction  of 
the  native  Government. 

ALBERT  FRANCIS  JUDD. 

Honolulu,  Oct.  i,  1880. 


PREFACE 


The  writer  of  these  unpretending  sketches  does  not 
claim  for  them  any  literary  merit.  Her  friends,  at  whose 
request  the  work  is  published,  will  excuse  the  egotism 
which  unavoidably  runs  through  it.  She  has  endeav- 
ored to  obtrude  personal  feelings  and  affairs  as  little  as 
possible. 

If  the  coloring  is  partial,  or  should  be  thought  by 
some  too  deeply  shaded,  it  must  be  remembered  that 
the  views  are  sketched  from  her  own  stand-point. 

If  there  are  missing  links  in  the  chain  of  events,  the 
author  has  only  to  say  that  she  has  not  pretended  to 
write  a  history  of  the  Hawaiian  kingdom,  but  has  culled 
and  abridged  from  the  mass  of  papers  before  her,  so  as 
to  present  the  important  incidents  of  each  year  in  pano- 
rama, omitting  much  in  order  to  avoid  personalities  and 
tediousness.  If  the  work  should  awaken  any  interest 
for  the  races  of  Polynesia,  if  it  draw  forth  one  tear  of 
sympathy  for  the  nations  yet  in  darkness,  one  prayer 
for  the  rising  of  the  Sun  of  Righteousness,  her  ambition 
will  be  satisfied. 

Honolulu,  May,  1861. 

(v) 


CONTENTS 


I. 

MM 

Extracts  from  an  Old  Journal — Passage  in  the  Ship  Parthian^— 

First  Sight  of  Hawaii — Oahu — Arrival — What  I  Saw — Welcome      I 

II. 

Landing — The  Carriages — Call  on  Kaahumanu — The  Rabble — 
Mission  House — Reception — Dinner — Kaahumanu — The  Na- 
tives— Chiefs — Strange  Sights  and  Sounds         ....      4 

III. 

Kitchen  Incident — Servants — My  Birthday  Walk — Native  Huts 
and  Habits — Presents — Kaahumanu — Visiting  the  Sick — Lydia 
Namahana — Robert  and  Hakahii — Sea  Captains — Call  on  Boki 
—What  I  Saw  There 9 

IV. 

Laundry — English  Consul's  Lady  and  her  Sister — Visiting  the  Sick 
— Kaahumanu — Ruth — Mrs.  Bingham — Shirts  and  a  Coat  for 
Royalty— Letter  to  a  Friend — Weddings  in  Church — Fees — 
Death  of  Robert  and  Wife 14 

V. 

Assembling  of  Missionaries — A  Sick  Child — Fashions— The  Chil- 
dren —  Native    School    Exhibition  —  Dress  —  Progress  —  Rival 

Families  of  Chiefs — Principles ig 

(vii) 


viii  Contents. 


VI. 

Visit  to  Lahaina — Yachting — Native  Navigators — Lahaina — The 
King  and  Princess — Language 23 

VII. 

Visit  to  Wailuku — Chair  Bearers — Our  Host — Return  over  the 
Mountains— Booths— Bird  Catchers  and  Feather  Tax— July  4th    26 

VIII. 

The  House — Commencing  School — The  Weather — Short  Allow- 
ance^— Foraging — Relief .    30 

IX. 

Arrival  of  the  Honqua — Letters  and  Supplies — Reflections — Let- 
ter to  Mrs.  C. — Mother,  etc.— Native  Mothers  and  Children — 
Infanticide — One  Rescued 33 

X. 

Arrival  of  the  Vincennes — C.  S.  Stewart — The  Dolphin — Laws — 
King's  Reception  of  Captain  Finch — Presents — Behind  the 
Curtain— A  Tea-Party 36 

XI. 

The  New  Church — Preparations  for  the  Dedication — A  Dilemma  .    39 

XII. 

Visit  to  Hawaii — Health  Station — Captains  Rice  and  Smith — Cap- 
tain Cook's  Heart — His  Death — Birth-place  of  Obookaiah — 
The  Heiau — Kapiolani — Kawaihae — John  Young — Waimea — 
Waip  o 42 

XIII. 

Death  ol  Kaahumanu — The  New  Testament — Incidents— Kinau, 
as  Kaahumanu  II. — The  East  India  Squadron  .         .         .         .47 


Contents.  ix 


XIV. 

Changes  for  the  Worse,  1832 — Kaomi — Kinau — Boki  in  1829 — His 
Departure — Madam  Boki — A  Revolution — A  Settlement — Gov- 
ernor Adams — Reverend  John  Diell,  Seamen's  Chaplain  .        .51 

XV. 

Religious  Interest — Visits  from  House  to  House — Kinau  as  a 
Housekeeper — As  a  Friend — Auhea— Her  Tea-Party        .        .     56 

XVI. 

Birth  of  Prince  Alexander — Adopted  by  the  King — What  took 
place — Nahienaena :  her  Death  and  Funeral      .        .        .        .     59 

XVII. 

IVir.  Richards'  First  Embassy — The  King's  Marriage — The  Dona- 
tion to  the  Church — Hilo— The  Volcano — Half-way  House — 
Night  at  the  Crater — The  Descent — Stone  Church  at  Honolulu     62 

XVIII. 
Jhildren  of  Missionaries — How  to  be  Educated — Different  Opin- 


67 


XIX. 
Schools  for  Native  Children — School-House — Materials         .        .    69 

XX. 

Reinforcements  —  Household  Duties. —  Discussions  —  Location  — 
A  Maternal  Association — More  Discussions — A  New  School- 
room— School  for  Young  Chiefs — Birth  of  a  Princess — Prince 
Alexander — English  Finery — November  Weather      .        .        .     *]l 

XXI. 

Temperance  in  1839 — Security — Education  in  the  Native  Language 
— Political  Economy — Mr.  Richards — Feudal  System — Laws — 
Dr.  Judd — Difficulties — French  Priests — Proselytes — Idolatry — 
Arrival  of  La  Place — His  Demands — Reflections — The  East 
India  Squadron  under  Commodore  Read — Death  of  Kinau        .     78 


Contents* 


XXII. 

Sickness  and  Death  of  a  Child — Hoohano,  a  Medical  Student — 
Native  Poetry — Death  of  a  Midshipman 85 

XXIII. 

Second  Visit  to  Wailuku — Lahaina  Luna — Hard  Traveling— Over 
the  Isthmus — Welcome — Changes  at  Wailuku — Female  Board- 
ing-schools— Sickness  among  the  Pupils — East  Maui,  the  Wheat 
Region 88 

XXIV. 

The  King  and  Premier — Return  to  Lahaina — Intemperance — Be- 
ginning of  Reform — Return  to  Honolulu — Trouble  on  Board 
the  Schooner — The  Royal  School — Changes  in  the  Mission— 
Punahou  School — Departure  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham    .        .     92 

XXV. 

Kapiolani — Caves  at  Kaawaloa — A  Crazy  Woman  Exploring — 
What  She  Found — Kapiolani  tells  Stories — Consequences  of 
Violating  a  Taboo — Surgical  Operation — Death  of  Kapiolani    .    96 

XXVI. 

The  United  States  Exploring  Expedition — Their  Operations — 
A  Picnic — Ascent  of  Mauna  Loa — Dr.  Judd's  Letter — His 
Danger  and  Escape  —  Our  First  Thanksgiving — More  about  the 
Expedition— A  Native  Trick — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jarves  .        .        .  10c 

XXVII. 

The  Belgian  Contract — A  Lease  of  all  Unoccupied  Lands— Object 
of  the  Lease — Mr.  Brinsmade's  Departure — Temperance  at 
Lahaina — Plans  of  the  Government — Departure  of  Richards 
and  Haalilio — The  English  Consul  Follows — Deputy  Consul 
not  Acknowledged — Commissions — Dr.  Judd's  Salary — One 
More  Commission — Letter  of  Dr.  Judd  to  the  Mission — A  Vote 
of  Thanks — A  Word  of  Change — What  Mr.  Brinsmade  did    .  106 


Contents.  xt 


XXVIII. 

G.  P.  Judd  to  the  Envoy — Sir  George  Simpson's  Views — About 
Lands — Extract  from  another  Letter — The  Lands  Recorded — 
A  Lawyer  Wanted — Letters — Mr.  Richards — Temperance — 
Tobacco  Reform — The  Great  Commandment — The  Govern- 
ment Commenced — Queen  Pomare — A  French  Ship-of-War — 
A  Narrow  Escape — Letter  to  Mrs.  L.  on  the  Training  of  Chil- 
dren     112 


XXIX. 

Cession  of  the  Islands  to  Great  Britain — .Arrival  of  the  Carysfort — 
Revenge  of  the  Deputy-Consul — Arrival  of  the  King — Deputy 
acknowledged — More  Demands — Dark  Days — Many  Men  of 
many  Minds — The  King  gives  up— Flag  changed — Islands 
governed  by  a  Commission — King  returns  to  Lahaina — G.  P. 
Judd  to  Envoys — Arrival  of  the  Constellation — Admiral  Thomas 
arrives  —  He  restores  the  Flag — The  Ceremonies — United 
States  Commissioner  and  English  Consul-General    .        .        .118 


XXX. 

My  First  Diplomatic  Dinner — Our  New  Home — A  Daughter 
Born  under  the  English  Flag — Why  the  Hawaiian  Flag  was 
Restored — My  Husband  111 — John  Ricord — Secretary  of  For- 
eign Affairs — The  Soldiers  Pardoned — Restoration  Party — 
The  Census  Improvements — Mr.  Damon — The  New  Palace  — 
Restoration  Anthem 125 

XXXI. 

Letter  of  President  Tyler— A  Declaration— William  Richards  to 
G.  P.  Judd — Mr.  Brinsmade's  Letter — Prospects  of  Failure — 
Sir  Geo.  Simpson's  Letter — Belgian  Hopes  and  Promises — Ad- 
miral Thomas'  Parting  Address— Parting  Salutations— Ship  of 
State  fairly  Launched— Mr.  Ricord— Mr.  Wyllie— Dr.  Judd— 
Mr.  Richards'  Return— Mourning  for  Haalilio— Leleihoku— 
Death  of  Gov.  Adams  ;  his  Effects— A  Struggle— Haalilio— 
Death  of  Auhea  ;  her  History 133 


xii  Contents. 


XXXII. 

King  resides  at  Honolulu — Furnishing  a  Palace — The  Queen — 
Going  to  Church — Rivalry — Our  Removal — Boarders — Politics 
in  the  Family — Trouble  with  George  Brown — Trouble  Gen- 
erally— Mr.  Richards'  Troubles — Visit  of  Sir  Geo.  F.  Seymour 
— Agitation  at  Lahaina — The  King  to  Petitioners — King's  Ad- 

9  dresses — John  Young's  Addresses — The  Oath  of  Allegiance — 
The  Native  Government  Supreme 141 

XXXIII. 

Letter  from  a  Distinguished  Traveler — Opening  of  the  Legislative 
Chambers — Feather  Cloak — The  Diplomatic  Corps — Female 
Legislators — The  King's  Speech — The  Traveler's  Testimony — 
Sabbath  Evening  Service  at  the  Palace — The  King's  Birthday 
— An  Accident — Letter  from  a  Correspondent — Dr.  Judd's 
Letter 151 

XXXIV. 

Mr.  Wyllie's  Report  for  1844 — Arrival  of  Admiral  Hamelin— The 
$20,000  Returned — Entertainments — New  Treaties — Statistics 
— Native  Girls — History  of  Kaili — A  Pattern  Life     .        .        .  159 

XXXV. 

Remove  to  a  New  House — The  Bridges  Gone — Going  to  Church 
— Nuuanu  Road — A  Grand  Celebration,  July  31 — Eatables — 
The  New  Commissioner — The  New  United  States  Consul — 
King's  Address — Mr.  Brinsmade  returned — More  Trouble — 
The  Arbitration — Mr.  Richards  Sick — Mr.  Ricord  resigns — 
Judge  Lee — Changes  among  the  Missionaries — New.  Buildings 
and  Old  Ones — Embarrassments — Death  of  Mr.  Richards — 
Funeral       . 164 

XXXVI. 

Extracts  from  Journal,  1848 — Mr.  Jarves  resigns — Mr.  Dillon 
arrives  and  Bishop  Maigret — Massacre  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Whit- 
man at  Oregon — Portrait  of  Louis  Philippe — Opening  of  the 
Legislature — Intemperance  and  Temperance — Report  of  Min- 
ister of  the  Interior — Hamburg  Treaty — Louis  Philippe  De- 
throned— Gold  in  California — A.  B.  Bates  and  Family  arrived 


Contents,  xiii 


— Reminiscences — Trouble  Ahead — The  Measles — The  Land 
Commission — Committee  to  Divide  the  Lands — Mr.  Armstrong 
— The  Young  Princes 17a 

XXXVII. 

School  Composition — Old  Hannah — Her  Fortune — Extract  of  a 

Letter  from  a  Prince  .........  181 

« 

XXXVIII. 

Journal,  1849 — Death  of  Alapai — Arrival  of  Admiral  de  Tromelin 
— Courtesies — Arrival  of  the  Steamer  Gassendi — Imperative 
Demands — Destruction  of  the  Fort — Seizure  of  Vessels — Visit 
of  Madame  Dillon — Negotiations — The  Yacht  Carried  Off — My 
Husband  Going  to  France 184 

XXXIX. 

Visit  of  U.  S.  Ship  St.  Mary's — Address  of  Commodore  Voorhies 
— The  President's  Message— E.  H.  Allen,  United  States  Con- 
sul— Breakfast  at  the  Palace — Letters  from  Dr.  Judd  and  the 
Princes — California — The  Treaty — At  the  Irving  House — In 
London— At  the  Foreign  Office — In  Paris— The  British  Am- 
bassador— Protracted  Negotiations— The  Princes  Employed 
— Presentation  to  Louis  Napoleon — The  Greek  Ambassador — 
Due  de  Broglie— Guizot — Mr.  Rives— Return  to  London  .        .  192 

XL. 

The  Embassy  in  England— Visit  to  Admiral  Thomas— Plymouth 
The  Adelphi— Lord  Palmerston — Lord  George  Paulet  and 
Lieutenant  Frere— Buckingham  Palace— The  French  Ambas- 
sador—Dining Out  — The  Treaty  Discussed— Mr.  Wyllie's 
Letter         ,  203 

XLI. 

Return  to  the  U.  S.— Letter  from  one  of  the  Princes— Washing- 
ion — Funeral  of  Calhoun — Reception  at  President  Taylor's — 
Letter  from  Dr.  Judd— An  Anecdote— Daniel  Webster— Fete 
Champetre  at  Staten  Island— Niagara — Return  to  the  Islands 
— Results  of  the  Embassy  .........  208 


xiv  Contents. 


XLII. 

Mr.  Armstrong's  Address — Good  Advice — Events  in  1850  and  1851 
— Royal  Haw.  Agricultural  Soc. — Judge  Lee's  Address — Ex- 
tract from  Mr.  Wyllie's  Address — Don  Marin's  Journal — His 
Character — Eruption  on  Mauna  Loa — Distilling  and  Wine- 
Making       •••  212 

XLIII. 

Filibusters — Report  of  Minister — Military  Preparations — Counter 
Arguments — The  Atmosphere  Clearing  up — Progress      .        .219 

XLIV. 

A  Dark  Chapter — The  Small-pox— How  Introduced — Vaccination 
— Board  of  Health — Sedition  Fomented — Indignation  Meet- 
ings— Chmmittee  of  Thirteen — Petitions — Panic  at  the  Palace 
— Resignation  of  the  Ministers — A  Torchlight  Procession — Dr. 
Judd  a  Private  Citizen — Letter  from  Lahaina    ....  22a 

XLV. 

Hopes  of  Annexation — A  Fourth  of  July  Celebration — Death  of 
Kamehameha  III. — His  Character — A  Commoner's  Biography  227 

XLVI. 

Honolulu  in  1861 — Statistics— Census — Buildings — The  Queen's 
Hospital — Markets  —  Lawyers  and  Doctors  —  King  Kame- 
hameha IV. — A  Free  Press — The  Catholics — Amusements — 
Climate — Cemetery — The  People — Present  Wants  .        .        .  233 

Appendix  I. — Letter  from  Dr.  Judd  to  Mr.  Wyllie        .        .        .239 
Appendix  II. — Recent  History  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands       .        .  249 


EXTRACTS  FROM  AN  OLD  JOURNAL. 

Extracts  from  an  Old  Journal— Passage  in  the  Ship 
"Parthian" — First  Sight  of  Hawaii — Oahu — A  rri- 
val — What  I  Saw — Welcome. 

Ship  "Parthian"  March,  1828. 

RIGHT  before  us,  up  in  the  clouds,  and  apparently 
distant  but  a  stone's  throw,  appears  a  spot  of  beau- 
tiful, deep  blue,  intermingled  with  dazzling  white. 
It  is  land ! — the  snow-capped  summit  of  Mauna  Kea,  on 
the  island  of  Hawaii.  Among  the  passengers  the  ex- 
citement is  intense  and  variously  expressed ;  some  rush 
below  to  their  state-rooms  to  pour  out  their  hearts 
in  gratitude  and  thanksgiving,  others  fear  to  turn 
away  lest  the  scene  fade  or  prove  a  delusion,  like  our 
dreams  of  home  land  ;  some  exhaust  their  vocabulary  in 
exclamations  of  delight — others  sit  alone  in  tears  and 
silence. 

What  wonder  that  we  so  long  for  release  from  this 
little  prison-house  !  We  have  suffered  many  hardships, 
often  unexpected.  The  ladies,  ten  in  number,  have  been 
obliged  to  perform  the  drudgery  of  steward  and  cabin- 
boy,  as  the  services  of  these  functionaries  have  been  de- 
nied us  by  the  captain,  although,  mirabile  dictu,  he  did 
in  his  condescension  allow  his  black  cook  to  prepare  our 
food  after  his,  if  furnished  and  conveyed  to  the  ship's 
galley.  We  possessed  but  little  practical  knowledge  of 
the  arts  of  the  cuisine  at  first,  but  have  sometimes  as- 


Honolulu. 


tonished  each  other  and  pur^eSves  at  our  success  in  pro- 
ducing palatable  dishes,  *afict  most  of  all,  light  bread, 
These  trials,  of  .patience  -and  /skilU will  be  of  use  to  us  in 
our  future 'housekeeping.  * 

The  voyage  is  now  over,  but  I  must  run  on  deck 
to  look  again  on  that  deep  blue  spot.  The  ship  glides 
along  smoothly  ;  the  clouds  open — the  blue  space  has 
become  a  broad  mountain  ;  now  we  see  the  green  valleys 
and  dashing  cascades  all  along  the  northern  shores  of  the 
island.  The  scene  reminds  one  of  the  pilgrim's  land  of 
Beulah.  Can  anything  so  fair  be  defiled  by  idol  worship 
and  deeds  of  cruelty  ? 

We  shall  pass  the  island  of  Maui  to-night,  and  reach 
Oahu  to-morrow,  which  will  be  Sunday.  We  have 
packed  our  baggage  in  the  smallest  possible  compass, 
and  have  everything  ready  to  go  ashore  on  Monday 
morning.  We  retire  to  rest  with  mingled  anticipations 
of  pain  and  pleasure.  For  once  we  regret  that  to-mor- 
row will  be  the  Sabbath ;  we  look  up  for  guidance — our 
Heavenly  Father  will  pity  us. 

Sunday  Morning,  March  30. 

The  island  of  Oahu,  our  Ultima  Thule,  looms  up  in  the 
distance,  displaying  gray  and  red  rocky  hills,  unrelieved 
by  a  single  shade  of  green,  forbidding  enough  in  aspect. 
Now  we  pass  the  old  crater,  Diamond  Head,  and  we  can 
see  a  line  of  cocoanut  trees  stretching  gracefully  along 
the  sea  beach  for  a  mile  or  more.  "  Please  give  me  the 
glass  for  a  moment.  There!  I  see  the  town  of  Honolulu, 
a  mass  of  brown  huts,  looking  precisely  like  so  many  hay- 
stacks in  the  country ;  not  one  white  cottage,  no  church 
spire,  not  a  garden  nor  a  tree  to  be  seen  save  the  grove 
of  cocoanuts.  The  background  of  green  hills  and  moun- 
tains is  picturesque.     A  host  of  living,  moving  beings 


The  Arrival. 


are  coming  out  of  that  long,  brown  building ;  it  must  be 
Mr.  Bingham's  congregation  just  dismissed  from  morning 
service ;  they  pour  out  like  bees  from  a  hive.  I  can  see 
their  draperies  of  brown,  black,  white,  pink  and  yellow 
native  tapa." 

Hark !  there  goes  a  gun  for  the  pilot ;  our  captain 
seems  somewhat  flurried ;  afraid  of  the  land,  perhaps ;  I 
surely  am  not.  How  I  long  for  a  run  on  those  green 
hills  !     But  patience  till  to-morrow. 

Evening — our  last  one  on  board  the  Parthian.  We 
have  sung  our  last  evening  hymn  together.  Mutual  suf- 
fering has  created  mutual  sympathy,  and  we  separate  in 
Christian  friendship. 

We  received  a  short  but  welcome  visit  from  Messrs. 
Bingham,  Chamberlain  and  Goodrich,  on  their  way  to 
hold  service  on  board  the  ship  Enterprise.     They  look 

careworn  an3  feeble  ;  Mr.  W said  "  hungry."     They 

gave  us  a  cordial  welcome  to  their  field  of  labor,  which 
they  describe  as  "whitening  for  the  harvest."  Mr. 
Goodrich  brought  some  sugar  cane  and  fresh  lavender ; 
the  fragrance  of  the  latter  made  me  wild  with  delight. 
I  have  been  on  deck  to  look  at  the  town  and  harbor. 
There  are  flitting  lights  among  the  shipping,  but  none 
visible  on  shore.  The  houses  are  windowless,  looking 
dark  and  dreary  as  possible.  "  Here  we  are  to  live  and 
labor,"  said  good  Dr.  Worcester,  "  until  the  land  is  filled 
with  churches,  school-houses,  fruitful  fields  and  pleasant 
dwellings."     When  will  it  be  ? 


II. 


Landing— The  Carriages — Call  on  Kaahumanu— 
The  Rabble — Mission  House — Reception — Dinner—' 
— Kaahumanu  —  The  Natives  —  Chiefs —  Strange 
Sights  and  Sounds. 

Mission  House,  March  31. 

WE  passed  a  sleepless  night ;  the  vessel  being  at 
anchor  we  missed  the  accustomed  rocking.     At 
nine  o'clock  this  morning  we  were  handed  over 
the  ship's  side  (by  our  kind  and  unwearying  friend  Mr. 

S ,  the  mate),  into  the  launch,  and  were  towed  ashore, 

twenty  in  number,  passing  quite  a  fleet  of  ships,  on 
board  of  which  we  saw  native  men  and  women. 

Landing  at  the  Fort  we  were  received  by  the  acting 
Governor,  Manuia,  a  very  gentlemanly-looking  person, 
dressed  in  half  military  costume.  He  spoke  a  little  En- 
glish as  he  escorted  us  to  the  gate,  where  vehicles  were 
ready  to  take  us  to  the  Mission,  a  mile  distant.  These 
vehicles  consisted  of  a  yellow  one-horse  wagon  and  two 
blue  hand-carts,  all  drawn  by  natives,  and  kindly  furnished 
by  the  Queen  Regent,  Kaahumanu  ;  but  I  could  not  be 
persuaded  to  ride  in  such  style,  and  begged  to  walk  with 
my  husband. 

We  stopped  on  the  way  at  the  door  of  the  royal  lady, 
who  joined  our  procession  after  welcoming  us  most  cor- 
dially to  her  dominions.  She  is  tall,  stately,  and  digni- 
fied; often  overbearing  in  her  mannei,  but  with  a 
countenance  beaming  with  love  whenever  she  addresses 


Native  Fashions. 


her  teachers.  She  was  dressed  in  striped  satin,  blue  and 
pink,  with  a  white  muslin  shawl  and  Leghorn  bonnet, 
the  latter  worn  doubtless  in  compliment  to  us,  as  the 
common  head-dress  is  a  wreath  of  feathers  or  flowers. 

We  were  followed  all  the  way  from  the  landing  by  a 
crowd  of  natives,  men,  women  and  children,  dressed  and 
undressed.  Many  of  the  men  wore  a  sheet  of  native 
cloth,  tied  on  one  shoulder,  not  unlike  the  Roman  toga ; 
one  had  a  shirt  minus  pantaloons,  another  a  pair  of  pant- 
aloons minus  a  shirt ;  while  a  large  number  were  destitute 
of  either.  One  man  looked  very  grand  with  an  umbrella 
and  shoes,  the  only  foreign  articles  he  could  command. 
The  women  were  clad  in  native  costume,  the  pau,  which 
consists  of  folds  of  native  cloth  about  the  hips,  leaving 
the  shoulders  and  waist  quite  exposed ;  a  small  number 
donned  in  addition  a  very  feminine  garment  made  of 
unbleached  cotton,  drawn  close  around  the  neck,  which 
was  quite  becoming.  Their  hair  was  uncombed  and  their 
faces  unwashed,  but  all  of  them  were  good  natured.  Our 
appearance  furnished  them  much  amusement ;  they 
laughed  and  jabbered,  ran  on  in  advance,  and  turned  back 
to  peer  into  our  faces.  I  laughed  and  cried  too,  and  hid 
my  face  for  very  shame. 

We  reached  the  Mission  House  at  last  and  were  ush- 
ered into  Mr.  Bingham's  parlor,  the  walls  of  which  were 
naked  clapboards,  except  one  side  newly  plastered  with 
lime,  made  by  burning  coral  stone  from  the  reef.  After 
being  presented  and  welcomed,  Mr.  Bingham  took  his 
hymn-book  and  selected  the  hymn  commencing: 

"  Kindred  in  Christ,  for  His  dear  sake." 

Some  of  the  company  had  sufficient  self-control  to  join 
in  the  singing,  but  I  was  choking;  I  had  made  great 
efforts  all  the  morning  to  be  calm,  and  to  control  an  over 


Honolulu. 


flowing  heart,  but  when  we  knelt  around  that   family 
altar,  I  could  no  longer  subdue  my  feelings. 

A  sumptuous  dinner,  consisting  of  fish,  fowl,  sweet 
potatoes,  taro,  cucumbers,  bananas,  watermelons  and 
sweet  water,  from  a  mountain  spring,  had  thoughtfully 
been  provided  by  the  good  queen.  As  we  had  not  tasted 
fruit  or  vegetables  for  months,  it  was  difficult  to  satisfy 
our  thoroughly  salted  appetites  with  fresh  food. 

Kaahumanu  treated  us  like  pet  children,  examined  our 
eyes  and  hair,  felt  of  our  arms,  criticised  our  dress,  re- 
marking the  difference  between  our  fashions  and  those  of 
the  pioneer  ladies,  who  still  wear  short  waists  and  tight 
sleeves,  instead  of  the  present  long  waists,  full  skirts,  and 
leg-of-mutton  sleeves.  She  says  that  one  of  our  number 
must  belong  exclusively  to  her,  live  with  her,  teach  her, 
make  dresses  for  her,  and  instruct  her  women  in  all  do- 
mestic matters,  so  that  she  can  live  as  we  do.  As  the 
choice  is  likely  to  fall  on  me,  I  am  well  pleased,  for  I  have 
taken  a  great  fancy  to  the  old  lady. 

After  dinner  she  reclined  on  a  sofa  and  received  vari- 
ous presents  sent  by  friends  in  Boston.  Mr.  Bingham 
read  letters  from  Messrs.  Stewart,  Loomis,  and  Ellis  to 
her.  She  listened  attentively,  her  tears  flowed  freely, 
and  she  could  only  articulate  the  native  expression, 
"  aloha  ino  "  (love  intense.)  At  four  o'clock  she  said  she 
was  tired,  and  must  go  home ;  accordingly  her  retinue 
were  summoned,  some  twenty  in  number,  one  bearing 
the  "  kahili "  (a  large  feather  fly  brush  and  badge  of  rank), 
another  an  umbrella,  still  another  her  spittoon,  etc.,  etc. 
She  took  each  of  us  by  the  hand,  and  kissed  each  one  in 
the  Hawaiian  style,  by  placing  her  nose  against  our 
cheeks  and  giving  a  sniff,  as  one  would  inhale  the  frag- 
rance of  flowers.  After  repeating  various  expressions  of 
affectionate  welcome  and  pleasure  at  the  arrival  of  so 


An  Island  Queen. 


many  fresh  laborers,  she  seated  her  immense  statelintss 
in  her  carriage,  which  is  a  light  hand-cart,  painted  tur- 
quoise blue,  spread  with  fine  mats  and  several  beautiful 
damask  and  velvet  covered  cushions.  It  was  drawn  by 
half  a  dozen  stout  men,  who  grasped  the  rope  in  pairs, 
and  marched  off  as  if  proud  of  the  royal  burden.  The 
old  lady  rides  backward,  with  her  feet  hanging  down 
behind  the  cart,  which  is  certainly  a  safe,  if  not  conve- 
nient, mode  of  travelling.  As  she  moved  away,  waving 
her  hand  and  smiling,  Mrs.  Bingham  remarked,  "We 
love  her  very  much,  although  the  time  is  fresh  in  our 
memories  when  she  was  very  unlovely ;  if  she  deigned  to 
extend  her  little  finger  to  us,  it  was  esteemed  a  mark  of 
distinguished  consideration."  She  was  naturally  haughty, 
and  was  then  utterly  regardless  of  the  life  and  happiness 
of  her  subjects.  What  has  wrought  this  great  change 
in  her  disposition  and  manner?  Let  those  who  deny  the 
efficiency  of  divine  grace  explain  it,  if  they  can. 

Crowds  of  curious,  but  good  natured  people  have 
thronged  the  premises  the  whole  day,  every  door  and 
pane  of  glass  has  been  occupied  with  peering  eyes,  to 
get  a  glimpse  of  "  the  strangers."  I  have  shaken  hands 
with  hundreds,  and  exchanged  "aloha"  with  many  more. 
We  seem  to  be  regarded  as  but  little  lower  than  the 
angels,  and  the  implicit  confidence  of  these  people  in  our 
goodness  is  almost  painful. 

The  chiefs  of  both  sexes  are  fine  looking,  and  move 
about  with  the  easy  grace  of  conscious  superiority. 
Three  or  four  of  them,  to  whom  we  have  been  introduced 
to-day,  visited  England  in  the  suite  of  King  Liholiho, 
and  were  presented  at  the  Court  of  St.  James*.  They 
dress  well,  in  fine  broadcloths  and  elegant  silks,  procured 
in  exchange  for  sandal  wood,  which  is  taken  to  China 
and  sold  at  an  immense  profit ;  fortunes  have  been  made 


8  Honolulu. 


by  certain  merchants  in  this  traffic,  (honorable,  of  course, 
especially  when  the  hand  or  foot  was  used  on  the  scales !) 
Our  captain  told  us  that  some  of  the  chiefs  had  paid 
eight  hundred  and  a  thousand  dollars  for  mirrors  not 
worth  fifty. 

March  31.    Nine  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Is  it  enchantment  ?  Can  it  be  a  reality  that  I  am  on 
dear  mother  earth  again  ?  A  clean,  snug  little  chamber 
all  to  ourselves !  I  can  go  to  the  door,  and  by  the  light 
of  the  moon  see  the  brown  village  and  the  distant,  dark 
green  hills  and  valleys.  Strange  sounds  meet  the  ear. 
The  ocean's  roar  is  exchanged  for  the  lowing  of  cattle 
on  the  neighboring  plains ;  the  braying  of  donkeys,  and 
the  bleating  of  goats,  and  even  the  barking  of  dogs  are 
music  to  me. 


III. 


V/Sten  Incident— Servants— My  Birthday  Walk— 
Native  Huts  and  Habits— Presents— Kaahumanu 
— Visiting  the  Sick — Lydia  Namahana — Roberi 
and  Hakahii—Sea  Captains— Call  on  Boki—Whai 
I  Saw  There. 


April  i,  1828. 

MRS.  Vl^'.  Gil  AM,  who  is  in  feeble  health,  allowed 
me  the  privilege  of  superintending  the  breakfast 
this  morning,  as  I  am  eager  to  be  useful  in  some 
way.  I  arose  quite  early,  and  hastened  to  the  kitchen. 
Judge  of  my  dismay  on  entering,  to  find  a  tall,  stalwart 
native  man,  clad  much  in  the  style  of  John  the  Baptist 
in  the  wilderness,  seated  before  the  fire,  frying  taro.  He 
was  covered  from  head  to  foot  with  that  unmentionable 
cutaneous  malady  common  to  filth  and  negligence.  I 
stood  aghast,  in  doubt  whether  to  retire,  or  stand  my 
ground  like  a  brave  woman,  and  was  ready  to  cry  with 
annoyance  and  vexation.  The  cook's  wife  was  present, 
and  her  keener  perceptions  read  my  face ;  she  ordered 
him  out  to  make  his  toilet  in  foreign  attire.  I  suppose 
travelers  in  southern  Italy  become  accustomed  to  this 
statuesque  style,  but  I  am  verdant  enough  to  be  shocked, 
and  shall  use  all  my  influence  to  increase  the  sale  and 
use  of  American  cottons. 

April 2,  1828. 

This  is  my  twenty-fourth  birthday.      Have  received 

our  baggage  from  the  ship.     Found  time  to  take  a  stroll 

with  my  husband,  and    on  our  way  visited  the  grass 

church,  where  Mr.  Bingham  preaches  to  an  audience  of 

1*  (9) 


i  o  Honolulu, 


two  thousand.  The  building  is  sadly  dilapidated,  the 
goats  and  cattle  having  browsed  off  the  thatching,  as  high 
as  they  could  reach.  The  strong  trade-wind  always 
blowing,  sweeps  through,  tossing  up  the  mats,  which  are 
spread  upon  the  bare  earth,  and  raising  a  disagreeable 
cloud  of  dust.  The  church  is  surrounded  by  a  burying- 
ground,  already  thickly  tenanted.  I  saw  some  small 
graves,  where  lay  sleeping  some  of  the  children  of  the 
pioneer  missionaries. 

We  looked  into  some  of  the  native  huts,  primitive 
enough  in  point  of  furniture ;  mats,  and  tapa  in  one  cor- 
ner for  a  bed,  a  few  calabashes  in  another,  hardly  sug- 
gesting a  pantry,  were  all.  Their  principal  article  of 
food  is  "  poi,"  a  paste  made  of  baked  taro,  which  they 
eat  with  fish,  often  raw  and  seasoned  with  salt.  It  is  the 
men's  employment  to  cultivate  and  cook  the  taro. 
Housekeeping  I  should  judge  to  be  a  very  light  affair, 
the  manufacture  of  mats  and  tapa  being  almost  the  sole 
employment  of  the  women.  There  are  no  cold  winters 
to  provide  for ;  the  continuous  summer  furnishes  food 
with  but  little  labor,  so  that  the  real  wants  of  life  are 
met,  in  a  great  degree,  without  experiencing  the  original 
curse  pronounced  upon  the  bread  winner. 

Such  quantities  of  native  presents  as  we  have  received 
to-day,  from  the  natives  coming  in  procession,  each  one 
bearing  a  gift !  Among  these  were  fish,  lobsters,  bananas, 
onions,  fowls,  eggs,  and  watermelons.  In  exchange,  they 
expect  us  to  shake  hands  and  repeat  "  aloha."  Their 
childish  exclamations  of  delight  are  quite  amusing — as, 
for  example,  when  they  request  us  to  turn  around,  so 
that  they  may  examine  our  dresses  and  hair  behind. 

They  all  express  themselves  delighted  in  having  a  phy- 
sician among  them,  and  one  man  said,  on  being  intro- 
duced to  Dr.  Judd,  "We  arc  healed." 


Calls  and  Callers,  \  \ 


Her  Royal  Highness  dined  with  us  again  to-day.  She 
had  been  sending  in  nice  things  for  the  table  all  the 
morning,  but  did  nc»t  seem  quite  satisfied,  kindly  inquir- 
ing if  there  was  not  something  the  strangers  would  like, 
not  on  the  bill  of  fare.  Mr.  Bingham  remarked,  "  You 
have  been  very  thoughtful  to-day."  She  looked  him  in 
the  face,  and  asked  with  an  arch  smile,  "  Ah,  is  it  to-day 
only?"  No  mother's  tenderness  could  exceed  hers  to- 
ward Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham.  As  she  is  an  amazon  in 
size,  she  could  dandle  any  one  of  us  in  her  lap,  as  she 
would  a  little  child,  which  she  often  takes  the  liberty  of 

doing. 

April  3,  1828. 

I  visited  some  sick  people  with  my  husband — also 
called  on  Lydia  Namahana,  a  sister  of  Kaahumanu.  She 
is  not  so  tall  as  her  royal  sister,  but  more  fleshy.  I 
should  like  to  send  home,  as  a  curiosity,  one  of  her  green 
kid  gaiters ;  her  ankle  measures  eighteen  inches  without 
exaggeration.  She  is  kind  and  good,  and  the  wife  of  a 
man  much  younger  than  herself,  Laaniu,  one  of  the  sa- 
vants of  the  nation,  who  assists  in  translating  the  Bible. 
"  Robert,"  a  Cornwall  youth,  and  his  wife,  Halakii,  reside 
with  these  chiefs  as  teachers.  They  are  exemplary 
Christians,  and  have  been  very  useful.  I  am  sorry  to  say 
that  they  are  both  quite  ill  of  a  fever. 

Several  captains  from  the  whaling  fleet  have  called  on 
us  to-day,  who  appear  very  pleasant  and  friendly.  We 
have  also  received  the  compliments  of  Governor  Boki 
(who  was  absent  on  our  arrival),  requesting  an  interview 
at  his  house  at  two  o'clock  P.  M.  We  shook  the  wrinkles 
from  our  best  dresses,  arrayed  ourselves  as  becomingly 
as  possible,  and  at  the  appointed  hour  were  on  our  way. 

The  sun  was  shining  in  its  strength,  and  we  had  its 
full  benefit  in  the  half-mile  walk  to  the  Governor's  house. 


1 2  Honolulu. 


He  met  us  at  the  gate  and  escorted  us  into  the  reception- 
room  in  a  most  courtly  manner.  There  we  found  Madam 
Boki,  sitting  on  a  crimson-covered  sofa,  and  dressed  in 
a  closely-fitting  silk.  She  was  surrounded  by  her  maids 
of  honor  seated  on  mats,  and  all  wrapped  in  mantles  of 
gay-colored  silk.  I  counted  forty  of  them,  all  young, 
and  some  pretty.  The  room  was  spacious,  and  furnished 
with  a  center-table,  chairs,  a  mahogany  secretary,  etc.,  all 
bespeaking  a  degree  of  taste  and  civilization.  Madam 
arose  as  we  were  individually  presented  by  name,  and 
courtesied  to  each.  Mr.  Bingham  was  presented  with 
the  Governor's  welcome  in  writing,  which  he  interpreted 
to  us  as  follows  :  "  Love  to  you,  Christian  teachers,  I  am 
glad  to  meet  you.  It  is  doubtless  God  who  sent  you 
hither.  I  regret  that  I  was  at  another  place  when  you 
arrived. — Na  BOKI." 

I  did  not  think  he  appeared  very  hearty  in  his  welcome  ; 
time,  however,  will  show.  As  this  was  our  formal  pres- 
entation to  the  magnates  of  the  land,  several  speeches 
were  made  by  those  present.  Kaahumanu  presented 
hers  in  writing,  as  follows : 

"  Peace,  good-will  to  you  all,  beloved  kindred.  This 
is  my  sentiment,  love  and  joy  in  my  heart  towards  God, 
for  sending  you  here  to  help  us.  May  we  dwell  together 
under  the  protecting  shadow  of  his  great  salvation.  May 
we  all  be  saved  by  Jesus  Christ. 

"  Na  Elizabeta  Xaahumanu." 

Governor  Boki  and  lady  visited  England  in  King 
Liholiho's  suite  in  1823.  Kekuanaoa,  husband  of  Kinau, 
a  daughter  of  Kamehameha  I.,  was  also  of  the  favored 
number  received  at  Buckingham  Palace.  They  would 
grace  any  court.  The  best-looking  man  in  the  group 
was  a  son  of  Kaumualii  (Tamoree),  King  of  Kauai.     He 


Four   Queens  too  Many.  13 

is  a  captive  prince,  as  his  father  was  conquered  by 
Kamehameha  I.,  and  is  not  allowed  to  return  to  his 
native  island.  They  all  appear  deeply  interested  on  the 
subject  of  religion,  and  enter  earnestly  into  every  plan 
for  the  improvement  of  the  people.  The  schools  are 
under  their  especial  patronage.  To-day  Mrs.  Bingham 
gave  us  an  account  of  her  first  presentation  at  the 
Hawaiian  Court  seven  years  ago.  It  was  at  the  palace 
of  Liholiho,  before  any  of  the  natives  had  visited  foreign 
countries.  The  palace  was  a  thatched  building,  without 
floor  or  windows,  and  with  a  door  but  three  feet  high. 
His  Majesty's  apparel  was  a  few  yards  of  green  silk 
wrapped  about  his  person.  Five  queens  stood  at  his 
right  hand,  two  of  them  his  half  sisters.  After  the  three 
foreign  ladies  had  been  introduced,  the  king  remarked 
to  the  queen  nearest  him,  "  These  foreigners  wish  to 
remain  in  our  kingdom,  and  teach  a  new  religion.  One 
of  their  peculiar  doctrines  is,  that  a  man  must  have  but 
one  wife.  If  they  remain,  I  shall  be  obliged  to  send 
away  four  of  you."  "  Let  it  be  so,"  was  the  prompt 
answer,  "  let  them  remain,  and  be  it  as  you  say."  This 
was  Kamamalu,  who  accompanied  the  king  to  England 
two  years  after,  and  died  in  London,  whom,  being  the 
favorite,  he  retained  as  his  only  wife.  The  other  four 
are  happily  married  to  men  of  rank.  They  are  all  of 
immense  proportions,  weighing  three  or  four  hundred 
pounds  each.  I  have  been  silly  enough,  in  my  younger 
days,  to  regret  being  so  large  ;  I  am  certainly  in  the  right 
place  now,  where  beauty  is  estimated  strictly  by  pounds 
avoirdupois ! 


IV. 


Laundry— English  Consul's  Lady  and  her  Sitter— 
Visitingthe  Sick — Kaahumanu—Ruth — Mrs.  Bing- 
ham— Shirts  and  a  Coat  for  Royalty — Letter  to  a 
Friend — Weddings  in  Church  —  Fees  —  Death  oj 
Robert  and  Wife. 


THE  natives  are  doing  our  six  months'  washing.  I 
have  been  at  the  stream  to  see  them.  They  sit  in 
the  water  to  the  waist,  soap  the  clothes,  then  pound 
them  with  smooth  stones,  managing  to  make  them  clean 
and  white  in  cold  water.  But  the  texture  of  fine  fabrics  suf- 
fers in  this  rough  process.  Wood  is  scarce,  being  brought 
from  the  mountains,  without  the  convenience  of  roads  or 
beasts  of  burden. 

Mrs.  Charlton,  wife  of  the  English  consul,  and  Mrs. 
Taylor,  her  sister,  called  on  us  to-day.  They  have  been 
here  but  a  short  time,  and  are  the  only  white  ladies  in 
the  place,  excepting  those  of  the  mission.  Mrs.  Taylor 
is  particularly  agreeable. 

Visited  again  our  sick  friends,  Robert  and  wife,  and 
fear  they  are  not  long  for  earth,  as  they  appear  to  be  in 
the  first  stages  of  rapid  consumption.  On  our  way  home 
we  called  on  our  friend,  Kaahumanu,  and  found  her  re- 
clining on  a  divan  of  clean  mats,  surrounded  by  her 
attendants,  who  had  evidently  been  reading  to  her.  She 
was  wrapped  in  a  "  kihei "  of  blue  silk  velvet.  This 
"  kihei "  is  a  very  convenient  article,  answering  for  both 
wrapper  and  bed-spread,  and  is  made  of  every  variety  of 
material.  It  is  as  easy  here  to  take  up  one's  bed  and 
walk  as  it  was  in  Judea. 
(14) 


Kaahtimanu.  1 5 

Kaahumanu  insists  that  we  shall  live  with  her ;  she 
will  give  us  a  house  and  servants,  and  I  must  be  called 
by  her  name.  We  do  not  like  to  refuse,  but  the  plan  is 
thought  to  be  impracticable,  so  we  propose  to  have  her 
come  and  live  with  us.  She  has  a  little  adopted  daugh- 
ter, "  Ruth,"*  whom  she  wishes  me  to  take  and  educate 
as  my  own.  There  is  certainly  before  us  enough,  and 
we  need  wisdom  to  choose  wisely  between  duties  to  be 
done,  and  what  is  to  be  left  undone. 

In  conversation  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  to-day, 
they  related  some  anecdotes  of  our  good  queen-mother 
in  former  times.  Quite  a  number  of  chiefs  embraced  the 
new  religion,  were  baptized,  and  received  into  the  Church, 
before  this  haughty  personage  deigned  to  notice  the  for- 
eign teachers  at  all.  It  was  after  a  severe  illness,  during 
which  she  had  been  often  visited,  and  the  wants  of  her 
suffering  body  attended  to,  that  her  manner  softened 
toward  them.  The  native  language  had  been  reduced 
to  writing ;  a  little  book  containing  the  alphabet,  a  few 
lessons  in  reading,  and  some  hymns  had  been  printed. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  took  a  copy  of  this  little  book 
and  called  on  her  one  evening,  hoping  and  praying  to 
find  some  avenue  to  her  heart.  They  found  her  on  her 
mats,  stretched  at  full  length,  with  a  group  of  portly 
dames  like  herself,  engaged  in  a  game  of  cards,  of  which 
they  were  passionately  fond.  This  was  the  first  accom- 
plishment learned  from  foreigners,  and  they  could  play 
cards  well  before  they  had  books,  paper,  pen  or  pencil. 

The  teachers  waited  patiently  until  the  game  was  fin- 
ished ;  they  then  requested  the  attention  of  her  ladyship 

*  Ruth  Keelikolani  is  the  daughter  of  Mataio  Kekuanaoa  and  Pauahi 
formerly  wife  of  Kamehameha  II.  On  Pauahi's  death  Gov.  Kekuanaoa 
married  Kinau,  from  whom  were  born  Lot  and  Alexander,  who  became 
Kings  of  Hawaii,  and  the  Princess  Victoria  Kamamalu. 


1 6  Honolulu. 


to  a  new  "  pepa  "  (paper),  which  they  had  brought  her 
(They  called  cards  "pepa,"  the  same  word  applying  to 
books.)  She  turned  toward  them  and  asked,  "  What  is 
it?"  They  gave  her  the  little  spelling-book  in  her  own 
language,  explaining  how  it  could  be  made  to  talk  to  her, 
and  some  of  the  words  it  would  speak.  She  listened, 
was  deeply  interested,  pushed  aside  her  cards,  and  was 
never  known  to  resume  them  to  the  day  of  her  death. 
She  was  but  a  few  days  in  mastering  the  art  of  reading, 
when  she  sent  orders  for  books,  to  supply  all  her  house- 
hold. She  forsook  her  follies,  and  gave  her  entire  ener- 
gies to  the  support  of  schools,  and  in  attendance  upon 
the  worship  in  the  sanctuary. 

It  is  no  marvel  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B looked  thin 

and  care-worn.    Besides  the  care  of  her  own  family,  Mrs. 

B boarded  and  taught  English  to  a  number  of  native 

and  half-caste  children  and  youth.  Fancy  her,  in  the 
midst  of  these  cares,  receiving  an  order  from  the  king  to 
make  him  a  dozen  shirts,  with  ruffled  bosoms,  followed 
by  another  for  a  whole  suit  of  broadcloth  !  The  shirts 
were  a  comparatively  easy  task,  soon  finished  with  the 
efficient  aid  of  Mrs.  Ruggles,  who  was  a  host  in  anything 
she  undertook.  But  the  coat,  how  were  they  going  to 
manage  that  ?  They  were  glad  to  be  valued  for  any  ac- 
complishment, and  did  not  like  to  return  the  cloth,  saying 
they  had  never  learned  to  make  coats.  No,  that  would 
not  do,  so  after  mature  deliberation,  Mrs.  Ruggles  got  an 
old  coat,  ripped  it  to  pieces,  and  by  it  cut  one  out  for  His 
Majesty,  making  allowance  for  the  larger  mass  of  human- 
ity that  was  to  go  into  it.  Their  efforts  were  successful, 
and  afforded  entire  satisfaction  to  the  king,  who  was  not 
yet  a  connoisseur  in  the  fit  of  a  coat. 

A  strange  scene  occurred  in  the  church  at  the  Wed- 
nesday lecture  of  this  week.     At  the  close  of  the  usual 


Wedding  Scenes.  \J 

services,  nineteen  couples  presented  themselves  at  the 
matrimonial  altar,  arranged  like  a  platoon  of  soldiers. 
As  I  can  not  understand  much  that  is  said,  I  must  con- 
fine my  observations  to  what  I  saw.  One  bride  was  clad 
in  a  calico  dress,  and  a  bonnet,  procured  probably  from 
some  half-caste  lady,  who  has  a  foreign  husband.  The 
groom  wore  a  blue  cloth  coat  with  bright  buttons,  which, 
I  am  informed,  is  the  property  of  a  fortunate  holder  who 
keeps  it  to  rent  to  needy  bridegrooms.  This  coat  is 
always  seen  on  these  occasions.  Most  of  the  brides  wore 
some  article  of  foreign  origin ;  one  sported  a  night-cap 
scrupulously  clean,  but  a  little  ragged,  abstracted,  per- 
haps, from  the  washing  of  some  foreign  lady.  Another 
head  was  bandaged  with  a  white  handkerchief,  tied  on 
the  top  of  the  head  in  an  immense  fancy  knot,  over 
which  was  thrown  a  green  veil,  bringing  down  the  knot 
quite  on  to  her  nose,  almost  blinding  the  poor  thing. 
The  scene  was  so  ludicrous,  I  could  hardly  suppress 
laughter,  especially  at  the  response  of  "  Aye,  aye,"  pro- 
nounced loud  enough  to  be  heard  all  over  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

There  seems  to  be  quite  a  furore  for  the  marriage  serv- 
ice. Mr.  Richards,  at  Lahaina,  says  he  has  united  six 
hundred  couples  in  a  few  months.  It  is  certainly  a  vast 
improvement  upon  the  old  system  of  living  together  like 
brutes,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  they  will  find  it  conducive 
to  much  greater  happiness.  The  usual  fee  to  the  offici- 
ating clergyman  is  a  few  roots  of  kalo,  or  a  fowl,  a  little 
bundle  of  onions,  or  some  such  article  for  the  table,  to 
the  value  of  twenty-five  cents.  Cheap  matrimony  this, 
even  counting  the  cost  of  outfit  or  for  the  rental  of 
clothes. 

I  am  grieved  to  record  that  our  beloved  friend  Robert 
and  his  wife  are  both  deid.     We  have  just  returned  from 


1 8  Honolulu. 


the  funeral.  Many  of  the  chiefs  were  present,  dressed 
in  black,  as  a  tribute  of  respect  to  the  departed  teachers, 
so  lovely  in  their  lives,  and  in  death  not  divided.  Such 
a  Christian  burial  affords  a  striking  contrast  to  former 
times,  when  teeth  were  knocked  out,  and  indulgence 
granted  to  every  excess  of  passion  and  violence. 
"  What  hath  God  wrought ! "  we  may  well  exclaim. 


V. 


Assembling  of  Missionaries— A  Sick  Child* -Fashions 
— The  Children — Native  School  Exhibitijn— Dress 
—Progress  —Rival  Families  of  Chiefs — Principles. 

April  22,  1828. 

THE  missionaries  stationed  on  the  different  islands, 
Hawaii,  Maui,  and  Kauai,  have  assembled  here  for 
the  purpose  of  a  general  council,  and  to  locate  the 
newly  arrived  company. 

These  islands  are  separated  by  channels  of  fifty  and  a 
hundred  miles  in  width,  as  boisterous  often  as  the  sea  off 
Cape  Horn.  The  voyages  are  made  in  small  schooners,  nav- 
igated by  natives  not  over  careful,  and  with  no  provisions 
but  those  carried  by  the  passengers  for  themselves,  who 
have  to  dispute  for  space  with  pigs  and  dogs,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  dirty  masses  of  humanity  who  crowd  these 
vessels,  voyaging  profitlessly  from  island  to  island. 

Mr.  Artemas  Bishop  comes  from  Kailua  in  his  desola- 
tion. We  brought  many  parcels  for  Mrs.  Bishop  from 
her  American  friends,  but  she  has  gone  where  every  want 
is  satisfied.  Her  poor  little  boy  also  suffers  from  the 
loss  of  his  mother,  although  provided  with  a  native  nurse, 
and  has  the  care  of  Mrs.  Ruggles.  I  have  been  bathing 
and  dressing  the  little  sufferer  after  his  long  voyage, 
weeping  and  wondering  at  the  mystery  of  Divine  wisdom 
in  removing  this  young,  loving  mother's  life,  and  leaving 
her  helpless  infant  motherless. 

We  are  enjoying  a  rare  season  of  Christian  intercourse 

(19) 


20  Honolulu. 


in  this  union  with  our  missionary  associates.     Mrs.  R- 


of  Lahaina,  with  her  three  sons,  is  a  perfect  sunbeam 
Most  of  the  number  look  feeble  and  overworked. 

I  employ  my  leisure  in  trimming  and  repairing  bon- 
nets for  the  ladies,  making  dresses,  and  modernizing  their 
wardrobes  generally.  Miss  Ward  makes  herself  very 
useful  in  this  department.  Fashions  have  changed  some- 
what in  seven  years.  It  is  a  great  pleasure  to  do  this, 
as  it  brightens  the  depressed,  and  diverts  the  minds  of 
the  desponding.  Some  of  them  have  not  spirit  enough 
to  smile. 

My  greatest  pleasure  is  to  gather  the  children  about 
me,  and  tell  them  tales  of  the  fatherland,  of  snow  and 
ice,  of  great  churches,  of  wide  streets,  of  lofty  trees,  and 
broad,  deep  rivers. 

April  28,  1828. 

The  grand  annual  exhibition  of  all  the  schools  on  this 
island  is  to  be  held  at  the  church.  Adults  compose  these 
schools,  as  the  children  are  not  yet  tamed.  The  people 
come  from  each  district  in  procession,  headed  by  the 
principal  man  of  the  land  (konohiki),  all  dressed  in  one 
uniform  color  of  native  cloth.  One  district  would  be 
clad  in  red,  another  in  bright  yellow,  another  in  pure 
white,  another  in  black  or  brown.  The  dress  was  one 
simple  garment,  the  "  kihei  "  for  men,  and  the  "pau  "  for 
women. 

It  is  astonishing  how  so  many  have  learned  to  read 
with  so  few  books.  They  teach  each  other,  making  use 
of  banana  leaves,  smooth  stones,  and  the  wet  sand  on 
the  sea  beach,  as  tablets.  Some  read  equally  well  with 
the  book  upside  down  or  sidewise,  as  four  or  five  of  them 
learn  from  the  same  book  with  one  teacher,  crowding 
around  him  as  closely  as  possible. 


A  People  at  School.  21 

The  aged  are  fond  of  committing  to  memory,  and  re- 
peating  in  concert.  One  school  recited  the  one  hun- 
dred and  third  Psalm,  and  another,  Christ's  Sermon  on 
the  Mount ;  another  repeated  the  fifteenth  chapter  of 
John,  and  the  Dukes  of  Esau  and  Edom.  Their  power 
of  memory  is  wonderful,  acquired,  as  I  suppose,  by  the 
habit  of  committing  and  reciting  traditions,  and  the 
genealogies  of  their  kings  and  priests. 

As  yet,  only  portions  of  the  Bible  are  translated  and 
printed.  These  are  demanded  in  sheets  still  wet  from 
the  press.  Kaahumanu  admires  those  chapters  in  Paul's 
epistles,  where  he  greets  his  disciples  by  name  ;  she  says, 
"  Paul  had  a  great  many  friends." 

The  children  are  considered  bright,  but  too  wild  to  be 
brought  into  the  schools.  We  intend,  however,  to  try 
them  very  soon. 

Among  the  Hawaiian  aristocracy  there  are  two  rival 
families,  like  the  houses  of  York  and  Lancaster.  Gov- 
ernor Boki  represents  the  claims  of  one,  and  our  good 
queen  the  other.  Both  claim  the  guardianship  of  the 
young  king,  Kauikeaouli,  and  are  equally  anxious  for 
paramount  influence,  but  with  widely  different  views. 
The  governor  has  visited  foreign  lands.  He  is  ambitious 
to  gain  the  influence  of  the  resident  foreign  traders,  and 
the  captains  of  ships  to  his  party.  He  favors  the  old 
order  of  things,  and  is  very  oppressive  in  his  exactions 
from  the  common  people,  but  utterly  regardless  of  the 
public  interests  in  his  extravagant  expenditures.  His 
levy  of  sandal- wood  has  kept  the  poor  people  in  the 
mountains  for  months  together,  cutting  it  without  food 
or  shelter,  other  than  that  afforded  by  the  forests. 

Kaahumanu,  on  the  other  hand,  is  anxious  to  lighten 
the  burdens  of  the  people.  She  makes  frequent  tours 
around  the  islands,  assembling  them  at  each  hamlet,  ex 


2  2  Honolulu. 


horting  them  to  forsake  every  heathen  custom,  learn  to 
read,  and  listen  to  the  teachings  of  God's  word  and  law. 
She  watches  the  young  king  with  the  solicitude  of  a  ten- 
der mother,  weeping  and  rejoicing  alternately,  as  he 
yields  to,  or  resists,  temptation  to  wrong-doing. 


VI. 


Visit  to   Lahaina — Yachting— Native  Navigators— 
Lahaina — The  King  and  Princess — Language. 


Lahaina,  June,  1828. 

AT  the  close  of  the  general  meeting,  we  accompanied 
our  friends  to  this  place,  to  spend  some  weeks. 
The  channel  is  seventy  miles  wide,  and  we  were 
four  days  in  making  the  distance,  beating  up  against  the 
strong  trade-winds. 

When  the  ladies  in  Clinton,  N.  Y.,  were  preparing  my 

outfit,  good  old  Mrs.  T suggested  a  blue  calico  and 

some  checked  aprons.  She  said  she  heard  I  was  expect- 
ing to  spend  a  good  deal  of  my  time  in  visiting  the  differ- 
ent islands,  but  should  think  that  I  would  find  it  my  duty 
to  stay  at  home  and  work.  Dear  old  soul,  how  I  wish 
she  could  know  something  of  the  pleasure  of  these  voy- 
ages !  They  are  made  in  a  little  schooner,  stowed  to  its 
utmost  capacity  with  men,  women,  and  children,  lumber, 
poi,  poultry,  horses,  horned  cattle,  pet  pigs  and  dogs, 
and  all  manner  of  creeping  things ;  and  we  are  utterly 
prostrated  and  helpless,  with  that  merciless  malady, 
which  falls  on  all  alike,  master  and  servant,  the  mal  de 
mer. 

The  native  navigators  often  go  to  sleep  even  at  the 
helm,  though  the  trade-wind  may  blow  a  gale.  The  sea 
is  often  very  rough,  and  then  again  we  are  under  a  lee 
shore,  in  a  dead  calm,  with  the  sails  napping  and  the 
schooner  pitching  in  the  trough  of  the  sea,  with  enough 

(23) 


24  Honolulu. 


violence  to  take  the  masts  out  of  her,  not  to  say  the 
breath  out  of  our  bodies.  If  I  had  ever  dreamed  of 
"yachting  by  moonlight  among  the  Isles  of  the  Pacific," 
one  trip  has  dispelled  the  illusion  forever. 

Lahaina  is  richer  in  tropical  vegetation  than  Honolulu. 
Beautiful  trees  and  flowering  shrubs,  with  the  rich  green 
patches  of  kalo,  grow  down  to  the  water's  edge.  The 
village  is  shut  in  by  mountains,  which  gives  one  a  pent- 
up  and  prison-like  feeling. 

We  had  the  honor,  to-day,  of  an  introduction  to  the 
young  king,  who  is  living  here.  He  has  just  returned 
from  his  first  visit  to  the  greatest  natural  wonder  in  his 
kingdom,  the  volcano  of  Kilauea.  He  was  dressed  like  a 
midshipman,  in  a  blue  jacket  and  white  pantaloons,  and 
a  straw  hat.  He  is  nearly  fifteen.  He  seemed  much 
pleased  when  told  that  ten  white  lady  teachers  were 
added  to  his  kingdom.  He  noticed  my  calico  dress  with 
shaded  stripes,  red  and  brown,  and  said  the  color  was 
like  the  "  ohai"  flowers  (Pride  of  Barbadoes),  and  he  sent 
out  one  of  the  servants  to  make  a  wreath  of  those  flowers, 
which  he  presented  to  me.  I  felt  obliged  to  wear  it  at 
dinner,  although  it  was  not  to  my  taste,  for  I  had  given 
away  all  my  muslins,  ribbons,  and  embroideries  when  I 
became  a  missionary ;  but  now,  to  my  surprise,  I  find 
people  are  estimated  somewhat  by  the  exterior.  The 
chiefs  and  higher  class  of  natives,  who  are  anxious  to 
improve  in  the  art  of  dress,  are  keen  observers. 

The  young  princess,  Nahienaena,  is  more  sprightly 
than  her  royal  brother.  They  both  have  excellent  voices, 
and  are  the  patrons  of  large  singing  schools. 

The  Hawaiian  alphabet,  as  written  by  the  missionaries, 
contains  but  twelve  letters.  The  vowels,  except  u  (oo) 
are  pronounced  the  same  as  in  French  and  Italian 
Neither  syllables  nor  words  ever  end  in  a  consonant. 


The  Hawaiian  Language.  25 

Words  are  almost  spelled  in  pronouncing  them — a-16-ha, 
O-a-hu,  for  example.  The  orthography  of  the  language 
is  very  simple,  and  to  learn  to  read  and  write  it  is  the 
work  of  a  few  days  only. 

The  grammatical  construction  is  more  difficult.  There 
is  properly  no  verb  "  to  be  "  in  the  language.  The  pro- 
nouns are  numerous  and  complicated,  there  being  forms 
for  the  dual  and  also  forms  for  excluding  or  including 
the  person  addressed.  L  and  R,  K  and  T,  are  used  in- 
terchangeably ;  it  is  said  that  a  native  can  distinguish  no 
difference  between  "kalo"  and  "taro,"  or  "Waikiki" 
and  "  Waititi."  If  the  Italian  is  the  language  of  the 
gods,  the  French  of  diplomacy,  and  the  English  of 
business  men,  we  may  add  that  the  Polynesian  is  the 
dialect  of  little  children.  It  is  easier  to  say  "hele  mai," 
than  "  come  here,"  and  "  i  wai,"  than  "  give  me  water." 
Nouns  are  placed  before  adjectives,  as,  "pua  ala," 
"  flower  fragrant."  Verbs  are  also  placed  at  the  begin- 
ning of  a  sentence,  as,  "  Plucked  I  the  flower  fragrant." 
Some  words  are  very  expressive,  for  which  we  have  no 
equivalent  in  English,  as  "  pilikia,"  which  signifies  "to 
be  in  a  tight  place,"  or  "difficulty."  "  Hoomanawanui" 
signifies  "  to  bear  patiently — to  persevere." 

There  are  great  deficiencies  also,  especially  in  abstract 
terms.  There  is  no  word  for  "nature,"  or  "virtue,"  or 
"enemy,"  or  "gratitude,"  or  "color."  "Pono"  means 
"goodness"  in  general,  but  nothing  in  particular.  So 
also  "aloha"  signifies  "love,"  "affection,"  "good-will," 
and  may  perhaps  be  twisted  into  "thank  you,"  or 
"  gratitude."  The  translators  use  the  original  Hebrew 
words  in  some  cases,  where  the  Hawaiian  is  deficient,  as 
"berita"  for  "covenant." 

As  we  studied  the  language  during  the  voyage,  we  are 
able  to  understand  common  conversation,  and  we  intend 
to  begin  teaching  school  on  our  return  to  Honolulu 


VII. 


Visit  to  Wdiluku— Chair  Bearers— Our  Host— Re- 
turn over  the  Mountains — Booths — Bird  Catcher* 
and  Feather  Tax— July  \th. 


July,  1828. 

I  HAVE  just  returned  from  my  first  mountain  excur- 
sion, and  we  have  thus  spent  our  first  "glorious 
Fourth"  in  the  Sandwich  Isles. 

We  have  just  returned  from  a  visit  to  a  district  on  the 
windward  side  of  the  island.  Wailuku  (water  of  devas- 
tation) is  the  name  of  the  river,  and  the  valley  through 
which  it  runs.     It  is  a  fertile  and  populous  region. 

Auwae,  the  chief  and  landlord,  sent  an  invitation  to 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Richards  to  visit  him,  and  to  bring  the 
strangers  with  them.  We  accordingly  left  Lahaina  in  a 
double  canoe,  furnished  and  manned  by  Hoapili,  the 
noble  old  Governor  of  Maui,  who  was  one  of  the  coad- 
jutors of  the  conqueror,  Kamehameha  I.  We  passed 
around  the  base  of  the  mountain  which  bounds  Lahaina 
on  one  side,  running  down  to  the  sea,  and  entered  a  bay, 
which,  with  a  narrow,  low  isthmus,  divides  East  from 
West  Maui,  both  divisions  of  the  island  shooting  up  into 
mountains.  The  mountain  on  the  east  division  is 
Haleakala  (house  of  the  sun),  and  is  the  largest  crater  in 
the  world,  but  is  not  in  action.  Its  sides,  consisting  of 
thousands  of  acres  of  fertile  land,  slope  to  the  sea,  and 
are  well  adapted  to  tillage. 

We  landed  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  chairs  sus- 
pended at  the  middle  of  long  poles  had  been  provided, 
(26) 


Chair  Bearers — Our  Host. 


and  stout  men  for  bearers,  to  carry  the  ladies  the  re- 
maining ten  miles.  I  hesitated  to  lay  such  a  burden 
upon  men's  shoulders  and  walked  along,  when  the  bear- 
ers began  to  laugh  and  took  up  one,  the  largest  of  their 
number,  into  the  chair  and  ran  on  with  him.  When 
they  had  set  him  down,  they  said :  "  There,  you  see  our 
strength,  you  will  be  no  weight  at  all."  I  accordingly 
mounted  the  chair,  the  men  elevated  their  horizontal 
poles  to  their  shoulders,  and  I,  having  soon  got  the  bet- 
ter of  my  scruples,  had  a  charming  ride.     Mrs.  R 

was  used  to  it,  and  reached  the  village  first. 

We  were  most  hospitably  welcomed  by  the  host  and 
hostess.  The  house  was  large,  well  furnished  with  mats 
and  kapa.  Screens  of  furniture  calico  divided  off  the 
bed-rooms.  Everything  was  extremely  neat,  but  the 
beds — merely  mats  spread  over  planks  of  the  hardest 
wood,  rough  hewn — were  most  uncomfortable.  Our 
wants  in  every  other  respect  were  anticipated  with  such 
real  politeness  and  refinement  as  surprised  me,  in  a  peo- 
ple who  have  had  no  intercourse  with  the  civilization  of 
white  people. 

Auwae  was  in  the  train  of  the  great  conqueror,  one  of 
his  savants,  and  keeps  in  memory  genealogies,  traditions, 
and  ancient  lore.  He  is  an  astronomer  and  botanist. 
He  placed  two  long  rows  of  stones  to  show  how  they 
classified  plants  in  sexes,  and  gave  us  the  native  names 
for  each.  He  seems  to  be  a  genuine  encyclopedia  of 
Hawaiian  science. 

Mr.  Richards  preached  several  times  during  our  visit 
of  two  days,  to  large  and  attentive  congregations,  be- 
sides marrying  several  couples. 

The  evening  before  we  left,  our  host  proposed  to  take 
us  home  over  the  mountains,  instead  of  the  canoe  route, 
to  which  we  assented,  as  offering  a  little  adventure.     A 


28  Honolulu, 


company  of  twenty-five  athletic  men,  trained  to  bird- 
catching  on  the  beetling  crags  of  these  mountains,  were 
called  out.  Their  toe  and  finger  nails,  never  cut,  grow 
like  claws.  Their  sole  business  is  to  catch  the  little  black 
birds  called  the  oo,  each  producing  a  few  yellow  feathers 
under  the  wings.  When  these  are  plucked,  the  bird  is 
set  at  liberty,  to  be  caught  and  plundered  again  at  some 
future  time.  Five  feathers  constitute  a  tax,  and  are 
equivalent  to  one  dollar  in  money.  These  feathers  are 
wrought  into  cloaks,  capes,  wreaths,  and  "kahilis,"  to 
bedeck  royalty.  The  feathers,  time,  and  labor  consumed 
in  making  a  cloak,  now  in  possession  of  the  young  king, 
have  been  estimated  as  amounting  to  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  dollars. 

But  to  return  to  our  excursion.  Our  native  host  and 
hostess  were  to  go  with  us  to  the  summit,  where  booths 
would  be  prepared  for  us  in  which  to  spend  a  night. 
We  breakfasted,  had  family  worship,  and  started  early, 
and  followed  up  the  river  as  it  winds  along  the  mountain 
gorge.  The  way  grew  rugged  and  more  difficult  as  we 
ascended,  now  leading  over  almost  inaccessible  defiles, 
and  up  almost  insurmountable  heights ;  and  now  along 
the  ridge  of  precipices  scarcely  wide  enough  for  foot- 
hold, but  we  were  carefully  guarded  and  borne  along  by 
our  bold  and  unflinching  guides.  Up,  up,  on,  on,  we 
flew  rather  than  walked,  until  our  heads  became  giddy 
and  our  feet  weary,  when,  discovering  our  tottering 
steps,  they  would  snatch  us  up  and  carry  us  along  as 
though  we  were  children. 

We  were  glad  to  emerge  from  this  wild  and  rugged 
scenery  to  a  broad  plateau — cool,  secluded,  and  beauti- 
ful. Our  booths  had  been  covered  with  the  broad, 
smooth  "  ki "  leaves,  so  closely  woven  together  as  to  ex- 
clude rain  and  wind.     Piles  of  dry  fern  were  placed  for  • 


Over  the  Mountains.  29 

beds,  over  which  were  spread  mats  and  "  ka£>a,"  making  a 
couch  fit  for  a  king. 

We  lay  down  weary  enough,  and  slept  until  daybreak, 
when  we  were  awakened  by  the  birds  all  around  us, 
chanting  a  full  chorus,  quite  unconscious  of  the  pres- 
ence of  their  persecutors.  The  sun  came  up  from  his 
ocean  bed  in  full  glory;  the  sea  was  visible  on  both 
sides ;  a  splendid  cluster  of  giant  forest  trees  formed  the 
background  and  concealed  from  view  the  frightful  preci- 
pice we  were  to  descend.  Auwae  said  this  was  an  old 
battle-ground,  and  a  scene  of  terrible  slaughter  only  a 
few  years  ago. 

We  kindled  a  gipsy  fire,  made  tea,  ate  our  breakfast, 
sung  a  hymn,  had  prayers,  and  then  parted  with  our 
dear  friends,  who  returned  to  Wailuku,  after  bidding  the 
guides  see  us  safely  down  the  mountains  to  our  home  in 
Lahaina.  The  descent  was  almost  perpendicular,  and 
we  swung  down  from  branch  to  branch  among  the  trees, 
our  only  security  being  the  faithful  bird-catchers,  who 
placed  our  feet  for  us  and  guarded  each  step.  We  ar- 
rived home  at  nightfall,  just  in  time  for  a  refreshing  cup 
of  tea,  prepared  by  our  beloved  and  thoughtful  sister, 
Miss  Ogden. 

Thus  we  spent  the  Fourth  of  July,  1828,  in  the  king- 
dom of  the  Kamehamehas. 


VIII. 

The  House— Commencing  School— The  Weather — Short 
A  llowance — Foraging— Relief. 

Honolulu,  August,  1828. 

HOUSEKEEPING  at  last  in  two  little  rooms  and 
a  chamber,  under  the  same  roof  with  the  Bing- 
hams !  The  clapboards  are  bare  and  admit 
quantities  of  dust  which  the  trade-winds  bring  in  such 
fearful  clouds  as  to  suggest  the  fate  of  Pompeii.  We 
have  three  chairs,  a  table,  a  bedstead,  and  a  nice  little 
secretary.     Dr.  Judd  has  converted  the  round-topped 

wooden  trunk  that  Uncle    E made  for  me  into  a 

safe  for  our  food,  by  placing  it  on  stilts  set  in  pans  of  tar 
water,  which  keeps  out  roaches  and  ants.  Mrs.  Bing- 
ham kindly  allows  me  to  have  one  of  her  trained  serv- 
ants, who  does  the  washing  and  assists  in  the  kitchen. 

We  have  commenced  a  school  for  native  women, 
which  already  numbers  forty-five,  including  Kaahumanu, 
Kinau,  Namehana,  and  several  of  their  attendants. 
They  are  docile  and  very  anxious  to  learn.  I  devote 
two  hours  a  day  teaching  them  to  write  on  paper ;  Mrs. 

B spends  two  hours  more  in  giving  them  lessons  on 

the  slate,  and  teaching  them  how  to  divide  words  and 
sentences.  Their  preference  is  to  join  words  together  in 
continuous  lines  across  the  page,  without  stops  or  marks. 
Miss  Ward  superintends  the  sewing  department.  Our 
school-house  has  no  floor  nor  desks,  the  only  substitute 
for  the  latter  being  a  long  board,  supported  by  cross- 
(30) 


Breakfast   Under  Difficulties.  31 

trees,  for  the  writers.  A  flag  is  raised  to  signal  the  hour 
for  school ;  it  came  from  a  wrecked  ship,  the  Superb,  and 
bears  the  name  in  white  letters  on  a  red  ground.  "  Su- 
perb school  mistresses,"  Mr.  Bingham  calls  us. 

I  can  not  begin  to  say  how  happy  I  am  to  be  here, 
and  how  I  love  to  work  for  this  interesting  people.  I 
little  thought  when  teaching  children  in  the  State  of 
New  York  what  that  discipline  was  preparing  me  for. 
I  was  but  sixteen  when  I  made  my  debut  as  school- 
teacher. I  wonder  if  the  little  brown  school-house  still 
stands  at  the  place  where  three  ways  meet  ?  .  .  .  . 

Opportunities  for  sending  letters  to  the  United  States 
occur  only  in  the  Fall  season,  when  whale-ships  are  re- 
turning home  around  Cape  Horn.  We  have  had  a  very 
hot  summer,  no  rain,  the  earth  parched,  and  clouds  of 
dust  blowing  day  after  day.  I  have  emptied  quarts  of 
it  from  my  bed  cover  at  night,  and  it  pours  in  so  thickly 
that  in  a  few  minutes  it  is  impossible  to  distinguish  the 
color  of  the  different  articles  of  furniture. 

Our  yearly  supply  of  sugar,  flour,  and  other  stores, 
sent  from  Boston  in  a  whale-ship,  was  carried  by  mistake 
to  the  Japan  whaling  grounds,  consequently  we  have 
been  on  short  allowance.  The  drought  almost  produced 
a  famine  in  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Our  good  queen- 
mother  has  been  often  absent,  and  we  have  missed  her 
presents  of  kalo,  fish,  and  other  good  things.  The  poor 
cattle  have  almost  starved,  and  of  course  our  supply  of 
milk  has  failed. 

One  morning  this  week  was  hot  and  oppressive ;  such 
as  occur  in  your  "  dog  days."  A  missionary  sister  was 
with  me,  who  had  been  watching  all  night  with  her  sick 
babe,  and  her  husband  absent  on  an  exploring  tour,  while 
mine  was  visiting  the  sick.  We  sat  down  to  our  little 
breakfast-table  spread  with  care,  and  offered  to  our  crav- 


3  2  Honolulu. 


ing  appetites  sweet  potatoes  and  salt  beef,  the  lattei 
spoiled  by  its  long  voyage  around  Cape  Horn,  and  a  still 
longer  stay  in  the  mission  depository.  We  sent  it  from 
the  table,  and  tried  to  swallow  some  potatoes,  but  they 
were  poor,  watery  things,  more  like  squash  than  pota- 
toes. The  effort  was  useless.  What  if  I  did  think  of 
the  well-stored  pantries  and  the  nice  little  delicacies  my 
friends  in  America  would  offer  me  if  they  could  ? — was 
it  wicked  ?  Were  we  like  the  naughty  Israelites,  longing 
for  the  flesh-pots  of  Egypt  ?  We  wiped  away  our  tears 
as  quickly  as  we  could.  I  said  to  my  friend:  "This  will 
never  do  ;  you  must  have  a  breakfast.  I  have  four  shil- 
lings which  were  in  my  purse  when  I  left  Boston.  I 
will  take  them  and  send  down  to  the  beef  market.  I 
know  it  is  against  the  rule,  and  would  be  thought  a  bad 
precedent ;  we  will  say  nothing  about  it.  Meanwhile, 
let  us  untie  the  little  parcel  of  flour,  trusting  in  Provi- 
dence to  provide  more."  The  servant  returned  with 
about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  beef  for  fifty  cents ! 
We  broiled  it,  and  with  our  hot  cake  made  a  delicious 
meal,  then  resumed  our  duties  with  cheerfulness  and 
gratitude. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  our  friend  Captain 
Bunker,  of  the  Zone,  arrived,  and  gave  us  a  barrel  of  flour 
and  several  other  articles.  I  do  not  complain.  Our 
friends  in  Boston  are  not  to  blame  that  we  are  short  of 
supplies,  as  they  have  no  regular  means  of  conveyance ; 
and  the  whalers,  who  kindly  offer  to  bring  our  stores 
without  remuneration,  can  not  be  expected  to  go  out  of 
their  way  to  land  them. 


IX. 


NEWS  FROM  HOME. 

Arrival  of  the  "  Honqua" — Letters  and  Supplies — 
Reflections — Letter  to  Mrs.  C. — Mother,  etc. — Naiim 
Mothers  and  Children — Infanticide — One  Rescued. 

THE  Honqua  has  arrived  with  letters,  papers,  and 
boxes.  We  are  in  a  fever  of  excitement.  How- 
kind  our  friends  are ;  how  pleasant  to  have  so  many 
long  letters  containing  assurances  of  love  unabated ;  how 
thoughtful  of  our  comfort  to  send  so  many  nice  things, 
just  what  we  need !  We  opened  the  flour,  the  crackers, 
dried  fruit,  cheese,  lard,  all  put  up  by  dear  father  and 
mother  Judd ;  and  here  are  chairs,  a  whole  dozen,  a  new 
bureau  and  book-case,  and  a  table  that  will  stand  alone — 
all  provided  by  our  kind  relatives  and  friends  in  Oneida 
County.  What  shall  we  do  with  so  much  furniture?  I 
will  make  a  tea-party  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  the  first 
thing.  Upai  will  help  me  to  make  biscuit  and  doughnuts 
and  stem  some  dried  fruit,  then  we  will  sit  down  together 
at  our  new  table,  read  our  letters,  and  talk  over  all  the 
news  from  our  dear  native  land.  After  tea  we  will  open 
our  boxes,  and  examine  the  treasures  sent  us  from  our 
friends  at  home.  No  lady  shopping  on  Broadway  with 
a  full  purse,  can  feel  half  the  delight  we  experience  in 
opening  a  box  from'  home. 

"  Touched  by  the  magic  hand  of  those  we  love, 
A  trifle  does  of  consequence  appear  ; 
A  blade  of  grass,  a  pin,  a  glove, 

A  scrap  of  paper,  does  become  most  dear." 
2*  (33) 


34  Honolulu. 


It  is  but  natural  that  with  the  first  impulses  of  ma- 
ternal love  we  should  turn  our  thoughts  more  directly  to 
native  mothers  and  children.  A  few  days  ago  we  called 
our  female  church-members  together,  and  requested 
those  who  had  children  to  bring  them.  A  large  number 
assembled,  our  good  queen-mother  heading  the  list, 
although  she  has  no  children  of  her  own.  She  brought 
little  Ruth,  an  adopted  daughter.  Kinau  presented  her 
first-born,  Prince  David  Kamehameha,  a  boy  fine  enough 
for  any  mother  not  of  the  seed  royal  to  glory  in.  Close 
beside  her  sits  the  wife  of  our  deacon,  Ehu,  with  three 
young  children.  Several  mothers  presented  their  off- 
spring, with  the  pride  of  old  Roman  matrons.  We 
counted  the  number  of  those  who  had  living  children, 
and  then  requested  those  who  had  none  to  rise.  The 
scene  that  followed  I  can  never  forget.  Why  are  you 
childless?  we  inquired.  Very  few  had  lost  children  by  a 
natural  death.  One  woman  replied  in  tears,  holding  out 
her  hands :  "  These  must  answer  the  question.  I  have 
been  the  mother  of  eight  children,  but  with  these  hand? 
I  buried  them  alive,  one  after  another,  that  I  might  fol- 
low my  pleasures,  and  avoid  growing  old.  Oh,  if  I  had 
but  one  of  them  back  again  to  comfort  me  now!  Ii 
tears  and  penitence  could  restore  the  dead  ! "  She  was 
followed  by  others,  making  the  same  sad  confessions  of 
burying  alive,  of  strangling,  of  smothering,  until  sob« 
and  tears  filled  the  house. 

"  Oh,"  said  one,  "you  have  little  idea  of  our  heartless 
depravity,  before  we  had  the  Word  of  God.  We  thought 
only  of  preserving  our  youth  and  beauty,  following  the 
train  of  our  king  and  chiefs,  singing,  dancing,  and  being 
merry.  When  old,  we  expected  to  be  cast  aside,  and 
being  neglected,  to  starve  and  die,  and  we  only  cared  for 
the  present  pleasures.     Such  was  our  darkness." 


Infanticide.  35 


The  scene  was  painful.  We  tried  to  say  a  few  words 
of  consolation  and  advice,  and  to  commend  them  to  God 
in  prayer.  We  made  arrangements  to  meet  them  regu- 
larly once  a  month  for  instruction  in  maternal  and  do- 
mestic duties,  and  returned  to  our  own  happy  Christian 
homes,  feeling  that  we  never  before  realized  how  much 
we  owe  to  the  Gospel. 

After  my  return  I  related  to  Pali,  my  native  woman, 
some  of  the  fearful  disclosures  made  at  the  meeting. 
"  My  mother  had  ten  children,"  said  she ;  "  my  brother, 
now  with  you,  and  myself,  are  all  that  escaped  death  at 
her  hands.  This  brother  was  buried  too,  but  I  loved 
him  very  much,  and  determined  to  save  him,  if  I  could. 
I  watched  my  mother,  and  saw  where  she  buried  him. 
As  soon  as  she  went  away,  I  ran  and  dug  him  up.  He  was 
not  dead.  I  ran  away  many  miles  with  him,  and  kept  him 
hid  with  some  friends  a  long  time.  My  mother  heard  of 
us,  and  tried  to  get  us  back,  but  I  kept  going  from  one 
place  to  another,  and  after  a  while  she  died.  I  have 
always  taken  care  of  him  until  now." 


Arrival  of  the  "  Vincennes"—C.  S.  Stewart— Thi 
"  Dolphin  ''''—Laws— King's  Reception  of  Captain 
Finch — Presents— Behind  the  Curtain— A  Tea 
Party. 

IT  is  impossible  to  describe  how  happy  we  were  made 
by  a  visit  of  the  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Vincennes,  Cap- 
tain Finch.  It  brought  to  us  again  the  Rev.  C.  S. 
Stewart,  chaplain,  who  was  formerly  connected  with  this 
Mission,  as  will  be  remembered.  He  was  one  of  the 
very  last  to  whom  I  gave  the  parting  hand,  when  we 
sailed  out  of  Boston  harbor,  and  I  need  not  say  that  he 
received  a  warm  welcome  from  us. 

The  visit  of  the  Dolphin,  Captain  Percival,  which  did 
not  bear  the  olive  branch,  was  still  fresh  in  the  minds  of 
the  native  community.  The  unprovoked  attack  upon 
the  houses  and  persons  of  the  defenceless  missionaries, 
was  approved  by  some  of  the  foreigners  already  gathered 
in  our  little  metropolis,  with  some  honorable  exceptions, 
but,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  the  foreign  officials  were  not  of 
this  excepted  number.  They  treat  the  magnates  of  the 
land  with  rudeness  and  indignity.  They  get  up  a  tempest 
of  words  upon  the  slightest  pretext,  and  threaten  our 
timid  and  peace-loving  rulers  with  vengeance  and  exter- 
mination. 

As  yet,  you  must  know,  our  people  have  no  printed 
code  of  laws,  other  than,  the  Decalogue,  which  Kaahu- 
manu  thinks  can  not  be  improved.  Public  ordinances 
are  made  known  by  a  town  crier,  who  patrols  the  high- 


Reception  of  Captain  Finch,  37 

ways  at  the  quiet  hour  of  twilight,  and  pours  forth  royal 
edicts  with  stentorian  voice. 

The  visit  of  Captain  Finch  was  opportune.  He 
brought  friendly  communications  from  his  Government, 
which  is  very  encouraging  to  the  chiefs,  who  are  anxious 
to  do  their  duty,  though  ignorant  of  foreign  usages. 

The  king  gave  a  reception  at  his  large  grass  palace,  to 
which  all  the  foreigners  and  missionaries  were  invited,  to 
meet  Captain  Finch  and  his  officers.  The  band  of  music 
from  the  ship  was  in  attendance,  and  as  the  king,  the 
chiefs,  the  foreign  officials,  and  the  officers,  were  in  full 
uniform,  there  being  plenty  of  room  in  the  immense 
building,  it  was  a  fine  and  delightful  affair.  A  pair  of 
large  globes,  a  number  of  books,  maps,  and  engravings, 
were  presented  to  the  king,  Kaahumanu,  and  othei 
chiefs.  As  Kuakini,  the  Governor  of  Hawaii,  is  the  only 
one  of  the  chiefs  who  reads  English,  he  received  a  very 
handsome  quarto  Bible.  The  message  from  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States  was  cordially  received  and  re- 
sponded to,  with  the  grateful  thanks  of  the  chiefs.  The 
interview  passed  off  in  the  most  agreeable  manner,  and 
our  rulers,  both  men  and  women,  appeared  to  the  best 
possible  advantage.  We  were  glad  when  it  was  over,  as 
we  are  always  a  little  anxious  lest  some  blunder  should 
be  committed. 

During  the  stay  of  the  ship  Mrs.  Bingham  made  a  tea- 
party  for  the  officers  and  chiefs,  and  had  quite  a  house 
full.  The  time  passed  insensibly  until  nine  o'clock,  when 
the  feast  of  reason  was  suddenly  interrupted  by  a  sound 
something  between  a  whistle  and  the  groan  of  a  black- 
smith's bellows.  It  was  an  announcement  that  our 
queen,  Kaahumanu,  was  tired  and  must  go  home.  She 
arose  (I  never  saw  her  look  so  tall),  gathered  up  the  am- 
ple folds  of  her  black  silk  dress,  even  to  the  very  waist, 


38  Honolulu. 


holding  a  portion  on  each  arm,  and  exposing  an  under- 
garment of  beautiful  pink  satin.  Thus  she  stood  in  her 
stateliness,  while  we  all  gathered  around  to  shake  hands 
and  bid  her  good-night.  We  laughed  a  little,  at  her  ex- 
pense, after  she  had  gone,  but  loved  her  none  the  less 
for  all  that 


XI. 


The  New  Church— Preparations  for  the  Dedication 
•—A  Dilemma. 


Honolulu,  November,  1829. 


AFTER  many  months  of  hard  labor  our  new 
thatched  church  is  completed.  Several  hundred 
men  at  a  time  have  been  engaged  in  putting  on 
the  thatch  under  the  superintendence  of  Governor  Boki, 
who  has  set  overseers,  sword  in  hand,  at  the  different 
portions  of  the  work.  The  men  chatter  while  at  work 
like  so  many  meadow  larks,  and  their  voices  are  suffi- 
ciently confused  to  remind  one  of  what  the  scene  might 
have  been  at  Babel's  tower.  The  church  has  a  neat  pul- 
pit, of  native  mahogany  (koa),  a  glazed  window  behind, 
draped  with  crimson  damask,  furnished  by  Kaahumanu. 
Upholstering  is  a  new  business.  We  had  some  idea 
of  festoons,  but  knew  not  how  to  arrange  them,  so 
as  to  produce  the  proper  effect,  for  we  were  without 
patterns  and  had  no  one  to  teach  us.  The  young  king 
was  anxious  to  have  it  as  grand  as  possible,  as  it  was  his 
chapel.  We  did  our  best,  and  what  more  is  required  of 
mortals  ? 

The  king,  his  royal  sister,  and  a  large  number  of  the 
chiefs  from  the  other  islands  were  present  at  the  dedica- 
tion. Kaahumanu  made  a  very  interesting  address  to 
the  people,  and,  to  the  surprise  of  all  present,  the  king 
followed  with  a  speech  and  a  prayer.  He  not  only  ded- 
icated the  house  to  the  worship  of  the  only  living  and 

(39) 


4-0  Honolulu. 


true  God,  but  solemnly,  then  and  there,  consecrated  his 
kingdom  to  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  The  princess  and  her 
maids  of  honor  led  the  choir,  and  the  chant,  "  O  come 
let  us  sing  unto  the  Lord,"  which  was  sung  in  excellent 
taste.  Governor  Boki  made  a  great  display  of  soldiers 
dressed  in  new  suits,  purchased  for  the  occasion,  aug- 
menting the  public  debt  some  thousands  of  dollars.  He 
appeared  restless  and  ill  at  ease. 

I  record  another  anecdote  of  Kaahumanu ;  the  inci- 
dent occurred  a  few  weeks  before  the  dedication.  Mrs. 
Bingham,  Miss  Ward,  and  myself  were  spending  the  day 
with  her  at  her  rustic  country-seat  in  Manoa  valley.  As 
we  were  seated  at  'our  sewing,  Kaahumanu  very  kindly 
inquired  what  we  thought  of  wearing  at  the  dedication 
of  the  new  church.  Without  waiting  for  an  answer,  she 
added  :  "  It  is  my  wish  that  we  dress  alike  ;  I  have  made 
a  selection  that  pleases  me,  and  it  only  waits  your  ap- 
proval." She  ordered  the  woman  in  waiting  to  bring  in 
the  material ;  it  was  heavy  satin,  striped  pink,  white,  and 
blue. 

She  fixed  her  scrutinizing  eyes  upon  us  as  we  exam- 
ined and  commented  upon  it  in  our  own  language.  As 
we  hesitated  in  the  approval,  "  What  fault  has  it  ?  "  she 
hastily  inquired.  I  replied,  "  No  fault ;  it  is  very  beau- 
tiful for  you  who  are  a  queen,  but  we  are  missionaries, 
supported  by  the  churches  and  the  earnings  of  the  poor, 
and  such  expensive  material  is  not  suitable  for  us."  "  / 
give  it  to  you,"  she  replied,  "  not  the  church,  nor  the 
poor."  "  Foreigners  will  be  present,"  we  said,  "  who  will 
perhaps  make  ill-natured  remarks."  "  Foreigners  ! "  said 
she,  "  do  you  mean  those  in  town  who  tear  off  calico  ? 
(meaning  the  salesmen  in  the  shops).  What  do  you  care 
for  their  opinions  ?  It  does  not  concern  them ;  you 
should  not  heed  what  they  say."     We  declined  still  fur- 


A  Dress  Dilemma,  41 

ther  the  acceptance,  as  we  should  not  ourselves  feel 
comfortable  in  such  unaccustomed  attire.  She  looked 
disappointed  and  displeased,  and  ordered  the  woman  to 
put  it  out  of  sight,  adding,  "  If  it  is  not  proper  for  good 
people  to  wear  good  things,  I  do  not  know  what  they  are 
made  for."  We  were  sorry  to  oppose  her  wishes,  and  she 
was  taciturn  all  the  afternoon.  As  we  were  about  to 
take  leave  at  evening,  she  resumed  her  cheerful  manner, 
and  asked  what  we  would  like  to  wear  on  the  forthcom- 
ing occasion.  We  thanked  her,  and  said  we  would  like 
to  make  something  very  handsome  for  her,  but  we  should 
prefer  black  silk  to  anything  else  for  ourselves.  She 
made  no  reply,  but  bade  us  an  affectionate  good-night. 
The  next  morning  we  received  two  rolls  of  black  silk, 
with  an  order  to  make  her  dress  exactly  like  ours. 


XII. 


Visit  to  Hawaii—Health  Station— Captains  Rict 
and  Smith — Captain  Cook's  Heart — His  Death 
-^Birth-place  of  Obookaiah — The  Heiau — Kapio~ 
la  ni—Kawaihae—Joh  n  You  ng—  Waimea —  Waipio. 

Kaawaloa,  Hawaii. 

AS  the  health  of  some  of  the  pioneer  missionaries 
appears  to  be  sinking  from  the  effects  of  this 
warm  climate,  the  brethren  in  council  decided  to 
send  a  committee  to  explore  the  bracing  regions  on 
the  slopes  of  these  snow-clad  mountains,  and  seek  for  a 
health  station.  Dr.  Judd  was  one  of  that  committee,  so 
I  was  obliged  to  leave  my  pleasant  school  and  home,  and 
come  to  this  place,  the  home  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ruggles, 
who  are  too  poorly  to  live  alone.  I  remain  with  Mrs. 
Ruggles  and  the  children,  while  Mr.  R.  and  Dr.  Judd 
make  their  explorations,  which  will  occupy  some  weeks. 
We  took  passage  from  Honolulu  with  Captain  Rice, 
in  the  whaleship  Superior,  of  New  London,  and  were 
eleven  days  making  the  passage.  Captain  James  Smith, 
of  the  Phoenix,  was  in  company.  We  encountered  a 
severe  storm,  and  took  three  whales,  one  of  which,  cap- 
tured by  Captain  Smith,  and  nearly  as  long  as  his  ship,  was 
unfortunately  lost  during  the  gale. 

Kealakekua  is  an  historical  spot.     I  write  this  in  sight 

of  the  very  rock  where  the  celebrated  Captain  Cook  was 

killed,  and  I  have  seen  the  man  who  ate  his  heart.     He 

stole  it  from  a  tree,  supposing  it  to  be  a  swine's  heart 

(42) 


An  Old  Temple — John    Young.  43 

hung  there  to  dry,  and  was  horrified  when  he  discovered 
the  truth.  The  Sandwich  Islanders  never  were  cannibals. 
This  made  him  famous,  and  he  is  always  spoken  of  as 
the  man  who  ate  Lono's  heart.  Here  I  have  made  the 
acquaintance  of  the  old  queen,  Kekupuohi,  wife  of 
Kalaniopuu.  She  was  close  to  Captain  Cook  when  he 
fell,  following  her  royal  husband,  whom  the  English  were 
enticing  on  board  the  ship,  to  be  detained  as  a  hostage 
until  a  stolen  boat  should  be  restored.  She  says  the 
natives  had  supposed  that  Captain  Cook  was  their  old 
god  Lono,  returned  to  visit  them.  They  paid  him  divine 
honors,  which  he  must  well  have  understood.  Men  were 
sent  from  the  ship,  who  cut  down  the  fences  around  their 
temple.  Women  visited  the  ship  in  great  numbers,  and 
husbands  grew  jealous,  and  began  to  distrust  these  new 
divinities.  A  young  chief  was  killed  by  a  shot  from  one 
of  the  ships,  while  passing  in  his  canoe.  There  was  a 
great  uproar  among  the  people,  and  when  they  saw  their 
king  about  stepping  into  the  boat  with  Captain  Cook, 
an  old  warrior  said,  "  I  do  not  believe  he  is  a  god.  I  will 
prick  him  with  my  spear,  and  if  he  cries  out  I  shall  know 
he  is  not."  He  struck  him  in  the  back,  Cook  uttered  a 
cry,  the  chief  gave  another  thrust,  and  the  great  navi- 
gator proved  to  be  mortal.  These  facts  were  gathered 
from  an  eye-witness,  who  expressed  the  deepest  regret 
at  the  sad  tragedy. 

Just  across  the  bay  is  the  birth-place  of  Obookaiah, 
the  first  native  convert  to  Christianity.  He  went  to 
America  in  a  whaleship,  was  taken  up  and  cared  for  by 
some  benevolent  people,  who  founded  the  Cornwall 
school. 

It  was  during  this  residence  at  Kaawaloa  that  we 
visited  the  old  "heiau,"  or  temple,  at  Hoonaunau,  in 
company  with  Naihe  and  Kapiolani.     It  was  then  sur- 


44  Honolulu, 


rounded  by  an  enclosure  of  hideous  idols  carved  in  wood, 
and  no  woman  had  ever  been  allowed  to  enter  its  con- 
secrated precincts.  Our  heroic  Kapiolani  led  the  way, 
and  we  entered  the  enclosure.  It  was  a  sickening  scene 
that  met  our  eyes.  The  dead  bodies  of  chiefs  were 
placed  around  the  room  in  a  sitting  posture,  the  unsightly 
skeletons  mostly  concealed  in  folds  of  kapa,  or  rich  silk. 
The  blood-stained  altar  was  there,  where  human  victims 
had  been  immolated  to  idol  gods.  Fragments  of  offer- 
ings were  strewed  about.  Kapiolani  was  much  affected 
and  wept,  but  her  husband  was  stern  and  silent.  I 
thought  he  was  not  quite  rid  of  the  old  superstition  in 
regard  to  women. 

A  few  months  after  our  visit  Kaahumanu  came  and 
ordered  all  the  bones  buried,  and  the  house  and  fence 
entirely  demolished.  She  gave  some  of  the  timber, 
which  was  spear-wood  (kauwila),  to  the  missionaries,  and 
told  them  to  make  it  into  canes  and  contribution  boxes, 
to  send  to  their  friends. 

When  Mr.  Ruggles  and  Dr.  Judd  returned,  having  select- 
ed a  locality  for  the  health  station,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ruggles, 
Miss  Ward,  and  ourselves  embarked  in  canoes  for 
Kawaihae.  Here  we  were  entertained  by  old  John 
Young,  an  English  runaway  sailor,  who  had  been  many 
years  on  the  islands,  and  had  assisted  Kamehameha  in 
his  conquests.  He  had  married  a  native  woman  of 
rank,  has  a  fine  family  of  sons  and  daughters,  and  is  con- 
sidered a  chief.  He  lived  in  a  dirty  adobe  house, 
adorned  with  old  rusty  muskets,  swords,  bayonets,  and 
cartridge  boxes.  He  gave  us  a  supper  of  goat's  meat 
and  fried  taro,  served  on  old  pewter  plates,  which  I  was 
unfortunate  to  see  his  servant  wipe  on  his  red  flannel 
shirt  in  lieu  of  a  napkin.  I  was  surprised  to  see  how 
imperfectly  Mr.  Young  spoke  the  native  language.     We 


Health  Station.  45 


were  sent  up  a  rickety  flight  of  stairs  to  sleep.  I  was 
afraid,  and  requested  Dr.  Judd  to  look  around  the  room 
carefully  for  concealed  dangers,  and  he  was  heartless 
enough  to  laugh  at  me.  Sleep  was  out  of  the  question ; 
I  was  afraid  of  the  wind,  which  sometimes  sweeps  down 
the  gorge  of  the  mountain,  and  got  up  at  midnight,  and 
went  down  to  the  grass  house  of  Mrs.  Young,  which  was 
neat  and  comfortable.  She  is  a  noble  woman.  She 
lives  in  native  style ;  one  of  the  sons  is  with  the  king, 
and  the  daughters  are  in  the  train  of  the  princess. 

The  health  station  is  selected  at  Waimea,  twelve  miles 
inland  from  the  bay.  The  road  to  it  is  a  foot-path, 
rough,  rugged,  and  ascending  about  two  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  We  lodged  in  a  dilapidated 
school-house,  without  windows  or  doors,  for  two  months, 
while  our  houses  were  building.  This  work,  performed 
by  the  several  districts  under  the  direction  of  the  head- 
man, had  been  ordered  by  Kaahumanu.  The  weather 
was  cold,  and  a  "  Scotch  mist,"  penetrating  and  disagree- 
able, came  over  the  hills  and  plains  every  evening.  The 
site  chosen  was  on  the  table-land,  at  the  foot  of  Mauna 
Kea,  covered  with  thousands  of  wild  cattle. 

Mr.  Ruggles  preached  to  the  people  every  Sunday  in 
a  neighboring  grove,  while  we  all  taught  a  daily  school. 
We  climbed  the  hills  and  gathered  wild  strawberries, 
which  cover  acres  of  ground,  ate  fresh  beef,  and  grew 
strong.  One  day  we  thought  we  would  go  home  with 
Haa,  the  head-man  of  the  valley  of  Waipio,  who  was 
erecting  one  of  the  houses,  and  had  often  invited  us. 
It  was  a  long  walk  through  a  thickly  tangled  forest, 
muddy  with  frequent  rains  and  the  trampling  of  the  wild 
cattle.  A  few  miles  brought  us  out  of  the  forest,  where 
the  sun  and  daylight  shone  once  more,  and  the  valley 
lay  before  us  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  almost  perpen- 


46  Honolulu, 


dicular  precipices,  opening  only  to  the  sea.  The  view 
was  perfectly  enchanting.  A  mountain  stream  at  the 
head  of  the  valley  poured  down  the  whole  distance  in  a 
beautiful  waterfall.  We  could  see  it  winding  its  way  to 
the  ocean,  looking  very  much  like  a  strip  of  white  ribbon. 

The  natives  moving  about  in  the  valley  seemed  of 
Lilliputian  size.  The  place  of  descent  was  covered  with 
grass.  Little  sledges,  made  of  long,  green  leaves  fast- 
ened together,  were  prepared  for  us,  and  Haa  said  we  must 
trust  to  him,  if  we  would  go  down  safely.  Tall,  strong 
men  took  sledges  on  both  sides  of  us,  and  down  we  slid, 
clinging  to  the  long,  tough  grass,  to  check  our  velocity. 
This  was  a  fearful  ride,  and  it  seemed  as  if  we  must  in 
evitably  drop  into  a  pond  of  water  at  the  bottom. 

When  we  reached  the  thatched  hut  of  our  host,  1 
found  my  fingers  much  swollen  in  the  useless  effortto 
lessen  the  speed  of  the  descent. 

Haa  gave  us  a  supper  of  fresh  fish  and  kalo,  and  we 
lay  down  on  clean  beds  of  native  kapa.  During  the  night 
a  storm  of  rain,  with  thunder  and  lightning,  rolled  over 
the  valley,  and  I  thought  of  the  slippery  precipices  to  be 
climbed  next  day,  and  wondered  what  induced  us  to 
commit  such  a  folly  as  to  go  down  into  such  a  prison. 

With  the  dawn  of  day  we  aroused  our  friend,  and 
commenced  the  toilsome  ascent.  The  natives  led  us  out 
by  a  different  way,  by  a  stony  path,  and  in  an  hour  and 
a  half  we  were  up  the  two  thousand  feet  and  on  the  road 
to  our  home,  a  little  wiser,  perhaps,  for  the  experience. 
Old  Haa  and  many  more  of  his  Christian  fellow -laborers 
have  long  since  entered  into  their  rest. 


XIII. 

Death  of  Kaahumanu—The  New  Testament— IneU 
dents— Kinau^  as Kaahumanu  II.— The  East  India 
Squadron. 


IT  was  not  many  months  after  our  return  to  Honolulu, 
before  our  beloved  friend,  Kaahumanu,  having  com- 
pleted her  last  tour  around  the  islands,  returned  home 
broken  in  health,  and  evidently  hastening  to  the  end  of  her 
pilgrimage,  more  humble,  more  lovely,  more  affectionate 
than  ever.  Every  breath  was  prayer  or  praise  to  God, 
for  what  He  was  doing  for  her  people.  She  had  been 
permitted  to  see  them  turning  to  the  Lord,  and  profess- 
ing their  faith  in  the  Redeemer  by  thousands,  as  in  the 
day  of  Pentecost.  Kinau,  her  niece  and  successor,  had 
publicly  declared  herself  on  the  Lord's  side ;  while  the 
king  was  docile  and  temperate. 

Kaahumanu  wished  to  go  to  her  favorite  retreat  in  the 
secluded  valley  of  Manoa,  and  requested  Dr.  Judd  and  my- 
self to  accompany  her.  Here  a  bed  of  sweet  scented  maile 
and  leaves  of  ginger  was  prepared,  over  which  was  spread 
a  covering  of  velvet,  and  on  this  she  laid  herself  down  to 
die.  Her  strength  failed  daily.  She  was  gentle  as  a 
lamb,  and  treated  her  attendants  with  great  tenderness. 
She  would  say  to  her  waiting-women,  "  Do  sit  down ; 
you  are  very  tired  ;  I  make  you  weary." 

Mr.  Bingham,  who  was  hurrying  the  New  Testament 
through  the  press,  had  a  copy  finished  and  bound  in  red 
morocco,  with  her  name  in  gilt  letters  embossed  on  the 

(47) 


48  Honolulu. 


cover.  When  it  was  handed  to  her,  she  looked  it  through 
carefully,  from  Matthew  to  Revelation,  to  satisfy  herself 
that  it  was  all  there,  then  she  wrapped  it  in  her  hand- 
kerchief, and  laid  it  upon  her  bosom,  clasped  both  hands 
over  it,  and  closed  her  eyes  in  a  sweet  slumber,  as 
though  every  wish  of  her  heart  was  gratified. 

Just  at  evening  she  awoke  and  inquired  for  her  teach- 
ers, Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham,  who  had  just  arrived,  and 
who  had  come  to  her  bedside.  "  I  am  going,"  said  she, 
"where  the  mansions  are  ready."  Mr.  Bingham  re- 
plied, "  Lean  on  the  Beloved  through  the  waters  of  Jor- 
dan." "  Yes,"  she  answered,  faintly,  "  I  shall  go  to  Him 
and  be  comforted."  The  swift-winged  messenger  hasted 
on  his  errand  and  with  a  faint  "  aloha,"  a  gentle  pressure 
of  the  hand,  the  eyelids  closed,  and  the  throbbings  of  that 
affectionate  heart  were  stilled  forever. 

A  holy  hush,  a  profound  silence  followed.  The  heart- 
stricken  band  knelt  by  the  side  of  the  couch  of  the  dead, 
and  sought  consolation  for  their  great  sorrow  in  the  bo- 
som of  an  Almighty  Friend.  The  little  valley  was  filled 
with  temporary  lodges,  and  throngs  of  her  people  were 
listening  for  the  sad  announcement.  The  tidings  of  her 
death  passed  from  lip  to  lip  in  a  few  moments,  and  the 
voices  of  the  multitude  were  lifted  up  in  one  doleful 
wail,  that  echoed  from  the  hills  and  mounta'ns'  sides 
with  appalling  reverberations. 

After  a  brief  indulgence  in  this  expression  of  grief, 
practiced  in  all  Polynesia,  Governor  Adams,  brother  of 
the  deceased,  issued  an  order  for  silence,  and  requested 
Mr.  Bingham  to  offer  prayer.  As  the  people  were  spread 
over  the  space  of  a  square  mile,  the  almost  immediate 
stillness  that  prevailed  seemed  magical  and  mysterious. 

Mr.  Bingham  stood  in  the  cottage  door.  With  up- 
lifted hands  and  a  distinct  voice,  he  commended  the  in- 


The  U.  S.  Frigate  "  Potomac?  49 

fant  nation,  bereaved  of  its  most  valuable  chieftain  and 
ruler,  to  Israel's  God.  He  prayed  that  her  fallen  mantle 
might  rest  on  the  shoulders  of  some  Elisha,  and  that  the 
lonely  band,  deprived  of  the  support  and  encouragement 
of  her,  on  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  lean  with  so 
much  confidence,  might  turn  with  stronger  purpose,  and 
take  hold  of  the  everlasting  strength  in  this  hour  of 
darkness  and  trial. 

June  5,  1832,  was  an  epoch  in  the  nation's  history, 
although  the  death  of  the  Queen  Regent  was  not  fol- 
lowed by  any  outbreak  or  disorder.  Kinau,  eldest  daugh- 
ter of  Kamehameha  I.,  was  publicly  recognized  as  her 
lawful  heir  and  successor,  with  the  title  of  Kaahumanu 
II.  She  was  sedate,  courteous,  and  reliable,  a  little 
haughty  in  her  deportment  toward  strangers,  but  a  lov- 
ing, exemplary  wife,  a  tender  mother,  and  a  warm- 
hearted, unwavering  friend. 

At  about  this  time  the  daily  verse  system  was  intro- 
duced, and  twenty  thousand  learners  committed  to  mem- 
ory and  recited  the  same  text  in  the  daily  morning 
prayer-meeting.  The  Word  of  God  grew  mightily,  and 
converts  to  the  Christian  faith  multiplied  like  drops  of 
morning  dew. 

During  this  summer  the  United  States  frigate  Potomac, 
Commodore  Downs,  touched  at  Honolulu  on  her  home- 
ward voyage  from  the  East  Indies,  where  she  had  been 
sent  at  an  expense  of  a  hundred  thousand  dollars  to 
chastise  the  inhabitants  of  Quallabattoo,  for  an  outrage 
committed  upon  an  American  merchantman.  The  com- 
modore and  his  son,  eight  years  old,  under  the  care  of 
Mr.  Greer,  the  chaplain,  spent  much  of  their  time  in  the 
missionary  families  while  the  ship  remained  in  port. 

Chiefs,  foreigners,  and  missionaries  were  invited  on 
board  together  to  spend  the  day,  and  were  delightfully 
3 


50  Honolulu. 


entertained,  being  shown  every  part  of  the  noble  vessel 
A  fine  band  discoursed  sweet  music ;  a  collation  was 
spread,  and  to  cap  the  climax  a  salute  was  fired. 

A  subscription  of  two  hundred  dollars  was  made  by 
the  officers  and  men  toward  the  purchase  of  a  bell  for 
the  native  church,  which  was  a  munificent  donation  and 
gratefully  acknowledged. 


XIV. 

Changes  for  the  Worse,  1832 — Kaomi—Kinau—Boki 
in  1829—  His  Departure — Madam  Boki — A  Revo 
lution—A  Settlement— Governor  A  dams— Reverena 
John  Diell)  Seamen's  Chaplain, 

TOWARD  the  close  of  the  year  1832,  the  political 
horizon  clouded  over,  and  the  wisest  of  us  were 
not  able  to  foretell  where  and  how  the    storm 
would  burst. 

The  young  king  (Kamehameha  III.)  threw  off  the 
restraint  of  his  elders,  and  abandoned  himself  to  intern 
perance  and  debauchery.  He  gathered  around  his  per- 
son the  profligate  and  licentious,  and  delegated  his  royal 
authority  to  Kaomi,  a  young  man  of  Tahitian  descent 
shrewd  and  unprincipled.  Under  the  patronage  of  this 
"  grafted  king "  (ke  'lii  kui),  as  the  people  styled  him, 
distilleries  were  established  in  various  places.  Vile 
heathen  songs,  games,  and  shameless  dances,  which  had 
gone  out  of  use,  were  revived.  Rum  and  wretchedness 
became  rampant ;  and  the  quiet  of  our  lovely  dells  and 
valleys  was  disturbed  with  bacchanalian  shouts  and  the 
wild  orgies  of  drunken  revelry.  Family  ties  were  sun- 
dered, husbands  forsook  their  wives,  and  wives  left  hus- 
bands and  helpless  little  children,  to  follow  drunken 
paramours.  To  drink  and  be  drunken  was  the  test  of 
allegiance  and  loyalty. 

(5i) 


5  2  Honolulu. 


Kinau  stood  nobly  in  defense  of  virtue,  decency,  and 
good  order,  but  the  king  refused  to  listen  to  her  advice, 
and  even  threatened  her  with  personal  violence,  if  she 
dared  to  venture  into  his  presence. 

In  her  despondency  she  made  us  a  visit  one  day,  and 
said :  "  I  am  in  straits  and  heavy-hearted,  and  I  have 
come  to  tell  you  my  thought.  I  am  quite  discouraged, 
and  can  not  bear  this  burden  any  longer.  I  wish  to  throw 
away  my  rank,  and  title,  and  responsibility  together,  bring 
my  family  here,  and  live  with  you,  or  we  will  take  our  fam- 
ilies and  go  to  America  ;  I  have  money."  We  sat  down 
by  her  side,  told  her  the  story  of  Esther  for  her  encour- 
agement, and  expostulated  with  her  upon  the  impracti- 
cability of  casting  off  her  rank  and  responsibility.  We 
assured  her  that  she  was  called  to  her  present  position 
and  dignity  by  Divine  Providence,  and  that  she  must 
nerve  herself  to  fulfill  her  high  destiny.  We  knelt 
around  the  family  altar,  and  asked  for  her  strength,  and 
wisdom,  and  patience,  and  for  light  on  her  darkened 
pathway. 

I  must  go  back  three  years  in  the  chronicle  of  events 
(to  December,  1829,)  and  bring  up  the  history  of  Gov- 
ernor Boki.  He  plotted  a  rebellion,  but  failed  in  gain- 
ing the  consent  of  the  youthful  king.  He  wished  to 
crush  the  rule  and  influence  of  Kaahumanu  and  all  her 
family,  as  he  was  averse  to  the  Christian  system  and  the 
restraint  it  imposed  upon  his  plans  of  money-making. 
He  favored  rum-selling  and  immoral  practices,  used  all 
hu  powers  of  persuasion  to  induce  the  king  to  marry  his 
sister,  the  Princess  Nahienaena,  according  to  the  old  hea- 
then custom.  Failing  in  these  attempts,  he  took  advan- 
tage of  the  absence  of  Kaahumanu  to  fit  out  an  expedition 
in  search  of  an  island  producing  sandal-wood,  of  which 
he  had  heard,  and  by  means  of  which  he  hoped  to  re- 


A  Lost  Expedition.  53 

trieve  his  sinking  fortunes.  The  king  and  chiefs  remon- 
strated in  vain  ;  Boki  took  possession  of  the  king's  brig, 
and  fitted  it  out  hastily  for  a  voyage ;  the  brig  Becket 
was  also  fitted  for  service.  Both  were  navigated  by  for- 
eigners under  his  own  direction.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
native  soldiers,  ten  white  men,  with  native  sailors,  women 
and  servants,  embarked  in  the  mad  enterprise,  nearly  six 
hundred  in  all,  and  embracing 'the  active  business  men 
the  flower  of  the  nation. 

To  every  remonstrance  he  replied,  "  I  will  go,  and 
not  return,  until  a  certain  chief  is  dead."  He  sailed  in 
ten  days  after  the  departure  of  the  Vincennes,  reached 
the  island  Rotuma,  where  the  two  brigs  separated. 
The  Becket  found  the  island  they  were  in  search  of,  but 
got  into  a  difficulty  with  the  inhabitants,  which  ended 
in  bloodshed.  A  dreadful  malady  broke  out  among 
them,  of  which  one  hundred  and  eighty  died  before  the 
brig  returned  to  Rotuma,  where  they  left  twenty  more 
sick ;  then  they  sailed  for  Honolulu,  where  they  arrived 
in  August,  1830.  Twelve  natives,  one  of  them  the 
wife  of  the  Captain,  and  eight  foreigners,  were  the  only 
survivors  of  the  company.  Of  Boki  and  his  numerous 
retinue  no  tidings  ever  reached  his  native  shores.  As 
the  lower  deck  of  the  brig  was  strewed  with  bags  of  gun- 
powder, upon  which  the  men  sat  and  smoked,  it  is  rea- 
sonable to  infer  that  the  vessel  was  blown  up,  and  that 
all  on  board  perished. 

Madam  Boki,  left  in  charge  of  the  island  of  Oahu, 
favored  the  ambitious  designs  of  her  husband.  She 
would  not  believe  that  he  was  lost,  but  deceived  herself 
with  the  vain  hope  that  he  would  return  some  day  in 
possession  of  the  Golden  Fleece.* 


*  At  the  present  time,  when  a  Hawaiian  wishes  to  speak  of  some- 
thing that  can  not  possibly  happen,  he  says  it  will  take  place  M  when 
Boki  comes  back." 


54  Honolulu. 


After  the  return  of  the  Becket  with  its  tale  of  disasters, 
and  while  the  chiefs  were  holding  a  council  at  Lahaina, 
she  made  an  attempt  at  rebellion,  which  came  near  in- 
volving the  country  in  a  civil  war.  She  filled  the  fort  on 
Punch  Bowl  hill  with  armed  men  from  her  husband's 
lands,  and  put  the  force  at  her  disposal  in  martial  array. 
Executioners  were  named  to  cut  off,  one  by  one,  her 
rivals  in  power,  as  they  entered  the  harbor.  Unfortu- 
nately for  her  success,  tidings  of  these  preparations  were 
borne  to  the  absent  rulers  in  a  way  she  did  not  suspect. 
Governor  Hoapili,  Madam  Boki's  father,  embarked  for 
Honolulu.  As  the  little  craft  was  descried  in  the  offing, 
many  hearts  beat  with  painful  suspense,  to  know  the 
errand.  The  good  old  man  landed  without  soldiers  or 
guns ;  calm,  dignified,  undaunted,  he  proceeded  directly 
to  the  dwelling  of  his  daughter.  His  errand  was  brief. 
He  came  to  invite  her  to  go  home  with  him  to  Lahaina. 
That  was  all !  She  went  with  him,  and  the  storm  blew 
over. 

The  chiefs  finished  the  business  for  which  they  assem- 
bled, and  returned  to  their  several  islands.  John  Adams 
(Kuakini)  was  appointed  Governor  of  Oahu  pro  tern. 
"  Temperance  and  reform  "  was  the  national  motto,  at 
least  with  the  senior  rulers.  The  king,  unfortunately, 
did  not  adopt  the  counsel  of  the  wise  Fenelon,  "  Place 
no  confidence  in  any  but  those  who  have  the  courage  to 
contradict  you  with  respect,  and  who  love  your  prosperity 
and  reputation  better  than  your  favor."  Madam  Boki 
retained  a  paramount  influence  over  his  mind  and  heart, 
flattering  the  one  and  pandering  to  all  the  vicious  pro- 
pensities of  the  other. 

Although  there  could  be  no  dispute  regarding  the 
hereditary  claim  of  Kinau  to  the  office  of  Premier,  yet 
Madam  Boki  had  the  adroitness  to  keep  the  position 
second  in  person  to  the  king,  and  aspired  unquestionably 


Kinau  Premier.  55 

to  the  honors  of  her  rival.  This  unsettled  state  of  affairs 
continued  through  a  part  of  the  years  i832-'33,  when  a 
public  meeting  was  convened  in  Honolulu,  and  the  king, 
assuming  the  royal  authority,  proclaimed  Kinau  to  be 
"  Kuhina  Nui,"  or  Premier. 

Old  friends  and  schoolmates  from  the  fatherland  were 
welcomed  to  our  shores  at  this  period,  in  the  persons  of 
Rev.  John  Diell  and  his  wife,  who  had  accepted  a  call 
to  the  chaplaincy  for  seamen  in  Honolulu.  One  needs 
to  be  isolated  a  few  years,  at  a  distance  half  round  the 
globe,  to  appreciate  all  there  is  in  greeting  a  beloved  and 
familiar  face. 


XV. 


Religious  Interest— Visits  from  House  to  House" 
Kinau  as  a  Housekeeper — As  a  Friend — Auhea— 
Her  Tea-Party. 

Honolulu,  1833. 

I  AM  at  a  loss  where  to  begin,  and  how  to  speak 
properly  of  the  great  things  the  Lord  is  doing  in 
these  islands.     Our  houses  are  thronged  with  in- 
quirers from  morning  until  evening,  many  of  them  igno- 
rant enough,  and  in  need  of  being  taught  the  first  princi- 
ples of  Christianity. 

As  soon  as  the  door  is  opened  in  the  morning,  a  crowd  is 
ready  to  rush  in,  who  seat  themselves  a  la  Turque  around 
the  room.  Each  individual  must  have  separate  attention, 
and  tell  his  manao  (thought).  One  company  succeeds 
another,  going  through  the  same  routine  of  questions 
and  answers,  leaving  little  time  for  breakfast  or  family 
worship,  if  perchance  there  is  any  appetite  for  the  former, 
after  inhaling  so  long  an  atmosphere  robbed  of  its  vitality 
and  saturated  with  perfumes  not  the  most  agreeable. 
This  must  be  patiently  borne  if  we  would  do  them  good, 
though  there  is  some  difference  of  opinion  whether  this 
formal  way  of  thought  telling,  as  they  term  it,  could  not 
be  turned  into  a  meeting  for  general  instruction  to  better 
advantage. 

One's   strength  is  overtaxed    in    the  performance  of 
these   duties,   though  we   endeavor  to   be  systematic, 
(56) 


Missionary   Visitations,  5  7 

and  economize  the  time.  The  ladies  of  the  station  have 
undertaken  to  visit  all  the  church  members  at  their 
houses,  to  see  where  and  how  they  live,  how  many  occupy 
the  same  dwelling,  and  if  the  children  have  separate 
lodgings.  As  we  have  no  conveyance  but  such  as  nature 
has  provided,  the  work  is  slow.  The  roads  are  mere 
foot-paths,  winding  among  the  kalo  patches,  and  slippery 
and  uneven.  The  names  of  fifteen  hundred  women,  in 
the  town  of  Honolulu  and  environs,  are  enrolled  on  our 
visiting  list.  We  meet  them  on  Friday  of  each  week,  di- 
vided into  three  companies,  and  in  three  different  places. 

To  help  these  degraded  beings  up  and  out  of  the 
depths  of  their  heathenism  ;  to  teach  them  how  to  be- 
come better  wives,  better  mothers,  and  better  neighbors 
is  indeed  a  work  that  angels  might  covet,  especially 
when  these  efforts  seem  to  be  accepted  of  God  and  are 
crowned  with  success. 

I  should  like  to  take  my  friends  to  the  dwelling-house 
of  our  Premier,  Kinau,  that  they  might  see  how  well  she 
arranges  her  domestic  affairs.  I  have  had  one  of  her 
attendants  in  training  several  months.  She  has  learned 
to  make  bread,  cake,  custards,  and  puddings.  This  gives 
me  a  good  deal  of  trouble,  as  only  a  part  of  the  mate- 
rials are  furnished,  and  I  am  expected  to  supply  all  the 
deficiencies. 

Kinau  claimed  the  privilege  of  giving  her  name  to  our 
eldest  daughter,  as  she  has  sons  only,  but  she  is  now 
supplanted  in  her  affections  by  her  (Kinau's)  adoption 
of  the  infant  daughter  of  Madam  Paki  (Konia).  I  go 
every  morning  to  meet  her  at  her  mother's  bedside, 
where  we  make  the  toilet  of  the  pretty  little  lady.  She 
is  to  bear  the  name  of  Bernice  Pauahi,  and  will  be  taken 
from  her  mother  in  a  few  days. 

To  us  this  giving  away  of  children  seems  a  most  un- 

a- 


58  Honolulu. 


natural  system,  and  a  grievous  outrage  upon  maternal 
instincts,  but  its  apologists  pleaS  State  policy,  and  that 
settles  the  matter. 

Auhea  (Kekauluohi),  half-sister  of  Kinau,  has  built  a 
fine  two-story  dwelling  of  coral  stone,  and  furnished  it  in 
European  style,,  and,  more  than  that,  occupies  and  keeps 
it  in  order.  During  the  late  general  meeting  of  the 
mission,  her  ladyship  made  a  tea-party,  to  which  about 
sixty  persons  were  invited.  She  did  the  honors  with  the 
dignity  of  one  "  to  the  manner  born,"  and  there  was  so 
much  in  the  surroundings  in  that  social  interview  to  re- 
mind us  of  a  far-distant  country,  that  we  indulged  the 
pleasant  illusion,  fancying  the  intervening  land  and 
ocean  bridged  over. 

Several  merchants  with  their  families  have  recently 
arrived  from  the  States,  and  are  a  delightful  acquisition 
to  our  social  circle. 


XVI. 


Birth  of  Prince  Alexander— Adopted  by  the  King—' 
What  took  place — Nahienaena:  her  Death  ana 
Funeral. 


February  9,  1834. 

THE  birth  of  a  fourth  son  to  our  illustrious  Premier 
was  an  event  of  no  ordinary  import.  Not  many 
minutes  after  the  young  prince  had  breathed,  the 
king  presented  himself.  After  congratulating  the  moth- 
er, and  scrutinizing  the  infant  with  a  look  of  affection, 
he  went  away,  leaving  a  small  slip  of  paper  stuck  in  the 
thatch,  upon  which  Yj,  had  written  this  laconic  sentence  : 
"  This  child  is  mine."  This  was  understood  as  an  ex- 
pression of  friendship  and  reconciliation  toward  the 
mother,  who  had  suffered  so  long  and  patiently  from  his 
alienation  and  excesses. 

The  baby  was  wrapped  in  a  blanket  and  conveyed 
with  due  ceremony  to  the  palace,  where  a  new  retinue 
of  nurses  and  servants  awaited  him.  The  king  had  lost 
two  beautiful  sons,  both  dying  in  infancy,  and  now  this 
little  stranger  was  adopted  as  his  own,  and  was  the  heir 
presumptive,  in  the  event  of  no  further  royal  claimant. 

The  State  carriage,  already  described,  was  at  my  door, 
with  sixteen  men  to  transport  me,  the  mistress  of  the 
robes,  to  the  new  scene  of  bustling  excitement.  A  score 
of  attendants  were  in  motion ;  each  must  aid  in  some 

(59) 


6o  Honolulu. 


way,  providing  the  water,  bowl,  soap,  and  napkin.  The 
clothes  Is  brought  in  a  basket  from  my  own  drawer. 
The  same  hand-cart  came  every  morning  for  two  weeks, 
and  the  same  process  of  bath  and  dressing  was  under- 
gone, in  spite  of  the  little  princely  protests  against  it. 

The  child  grew  and  gained  favor,  and  proved  to  be  a 
real  bond  of  union  between  the  factious  families.  As 
soon  as  he  was  old  enough,  he  was  presented  by  his 
mother  for  baptism,  and  the  rite  administered  in  the 
native  church  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham.  Kaomi  re- 
tired to  his  former  obscurity,  and  not  long  after  died,  it 
is  said,  of  chagrin  and  disappointment. 

One  of  the  bitter  fruits  of  the  king's  irregularities  was 
the  corruption  and  apostasy  of  his  royal  sister,  the  once 
promising  Nahienaena.  For  a  while  the  tears  and 
prayers  of  her  beloved  teachers,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Richards, 
stayed  the  progress  of  evil  in  her,  but  the  star  that  had 
shone  with  a  brilliancy  that  delighted  all  beholders, 
was  destined  to  go  down  in  darkness.  She  forsook  her 
old  home  and  teachers,  came  to  Honolulu,  where  she 
spent  her  last  years  in  dissipation.  I  was  by  her  bed 
side  a  little  before  she  died.  She  was  in  great  distress 
of  mind,  amounting  to  agony.  "  There  is  no  mercy  for 
an  apostate.  I  am  one,"  she  said.  "  I  have  crucified 
the  Lord  afresh."  "  Jesus  spake  pardon  to  the  dying 
penitent  on  the  cross,"  I  said.  "  Do  you  say  so  ?  "  she 
exclaimed,  clasping  my  hand.  "  Can  there  be  hope  for 
one  who  has  sinned  as  I  have  ? "  Then  she  made  an- 
other effort  to  plead  for  mercy  with  that  Saviour  whose 
cause  she  had  dishonored  ;  but  her  strength  failed — the 
golden  bowl  was  broken. 

Her  funeral  was  one  of  great  pomp  and  display.  But 
neither  the  immense  procession,  the  martial  array  of 
royal  guards,  the  band  of  music,  the  magnificence  of 


Death  of  Nahienaena.  6t 

stately  "  kahilis,"  the  firing  of  minute  guns,  nor  the  sol- 
emn toll  of  the  church  bell,  could  stifle  the  remorse,  of 
drown  the  sorrow  of  her  royal  brother.  He  appeared 
deeply  affected  by  this  untimely  death,  and  many  prayers 
were  offered,  that  it  might  be  the  means  of  bringing  him 
back  to  penitence  and  duty.  Not  long  after  the  funeral 
ceremony,  the  body  was  taken  to  Lahaina  and  placed  in 
the  tomb  of  her  mother,  Keopuolani.  Tke  king  then 
visited  Hawaii. 


XVII. 

• 

Mr.  Richards'  First  Embassy — The  King's  Marriage 
— The  Donation  to  the  Church — Hilo — The  Volcant 
— Half-way  House — Night  at  the  Crater— The  De- 
scent— Stone  Church  at  Honolulu. 

Honolulu,  1837. 

THE  king  is  married  to  his  favorite  Kalama,  a  very 
sprightly  young  girl.  The  nuptial  ceremony  was 
performed  in  the  native  church,  at  the  close  of 
the  evening  service.  Since  the  death  of  his  sister  the 
king  appears  sober  and  thoughtful.  While  absent  a  few- 
weeks  since,  he  wrote  a  letter  to  Dr.  Judd,  in  which  he 
expressed  the  hope  that  the  "  Word  of  God  was  budding 
in  his  heart." 

After  the  collection  of  the  annual  poll  tax  in  January, 
he  appropriated  fifteen  hundred  dollars  in  cash  toward 
the  new  stone  church,  which  is  to  be  called  the  "  King's 
Chapel."  He  came  in  person  when  the  money  was  de- 
livered to  Mr.  Bingham,  remained  to  tea,  and  spent  the 
evening  in  pleasant  conversation.  The  money  is  to  be 
forwarded  to  Boston,  for  the  purchase  of  windows  and 
lumber. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Richards  were  anxious  to  see  the  "  lion  " 
of  Hawaii  before  sailing  for  home,  and,  as  Dr.  Judd  was 
called  to  visit  Hilo  on  professional  business,  we  made  up 
a  party  of  four  adults  and  seven  children  for  the  visit. 

The  little  schooner  Clarion  entered  the  quiet  waters 
of  Hilo,  or  "  Byron's  "  bay,  at  sunset,  and  I  realized  for 
(62) 


Hilo — An  Ea7'thquake.  63 

the  first  time  all  my  early  day-dreams  of  tropical  beauty. 
While  spending  a  few  days  in  the  enjoyment  of  the 
society  of  our  friends,  our  wish  to  experience  an  earth- 
quake was  gratified  by  a  slight  shock.  It  was  not  a 
pleasant  sensation,  and  we  did  not  ask  to  have  it  repeated 
for  our  benefit.  In  a  storm  at  sea,  our  thoughts  naturally 
turn  to  the  land — the  solid  earth — for  rest ;  but  alas ! 
when  the  foundations  tremble,  rocking  hither  and  thither, 
upheaving  and  shaking,  as  if  to  throw  off  its  burden, 
there  come  over  me  a  terror  and  utter  helplessness  that 
can  not  be  described. 

Our  kind  hostess,  Mrs.  Coan,  fitted  us  off  for  a  trip 
to  the  crater,  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  with  pro- 
visions for  four  days ;  no  small  inroad  upon  the  yearly 
allowance  doled  out  to  each  family.  One  miserable  jade 
of  a  beast  was  all  the  town  of  Hilo  possessed  in  the  way 
of  horse-flesh.  This  served  for  two  gentlemen  and  three 
ladies.     Don't  fancy  us  all  mounted  at  once. 

The  ladies  were  provided  with  palanquins,  extempo 
rized  by  fastening  two  boards  together  at  an  obtuse  angle, 
one  to  sit  upon  with  feet  horizontal,  and  a  shorter  one 
to  support  the  back.  These  were  suspended  by  ropes  to 
a  pole  borne  on  men's  shoulders.  A  soap-box,  emptied 
of  its  contents,  with  a  cushion  in  it,  and  a  cradle  for  the 
children,  were  carried  in  the  same  way.  The  natives 
provided  themselves  with  poi  and  fish  for  the  journey. 

The  head  man  of  Hilo  had  deceived  us.  Instead  of 
providing  able-bodied  and  strong  men  for  our  relay  of 
bearers,  for  whom  our  husbands  had  stipulated,  and  paid 
extra,  we  discovered  they  were  sickly  fellows,  with 
shoulders  already  sore  from  transporting  burdens  for 
their  task-master.  But  cheerfulness  and  resolution  will 
accomplish  wonders.  .The  road  through  the  woods, 
spread  with  trunks  of  the  tree-fern,  made  it  elastic  for 


64  Honolulu. 


the  feet,  and  Mrs.  Richards  and  myself  walked  many  a 
mile. 

We  reached  the  "  half-way  house"  at  dark,  where  we 
found  shelter  in  a  large  thatched  house,  untenanted, 
without  window  or  door  to  close  it.  Our  arrival  had 
been  anticipated  by  a  company  of  young  people  from  a 
neighboring  district,  who  had  come  to  be  married,  and 
thus  save  a  journey  to  Hilo.  The  ceremony  was  per- 
formed by  torchlight,  and  the  parties  retired  in  groups 
to  the  different  parts  of  the  building  to  wait  for  day- 
light, when  they  could  go  home.  Sleep  was  out  of  the 
question,  with  the  chattering  voices,  half  subdued  whis- 
pers, and  merry  laughter  of  the  bridal  party — and  the 
fleas ! 

About  midnight  we  were  all  brought  to  our  feet  by 
the  entrance  of  a  huge  black  hog,  with  tusks  like  a  rhi- 
noceros's. It  required  a  vast  deal  of  shouting  and  shak- 
ing of  kapa  to  convince  the  intruder  that  he  had  mis- 
taken his  lodgings.  We  breakfasted  at  early  dawn,  and 
resumed  our  journey  toward  Mauna  Loa.  The  air  be- 
came exhilarating  and  cool,  and  the  ascent  was  so  grad 
ual  as  to  be  almost  imperceptible. 

Deep  crevices,  from  which  issued  steam  and  heated 
air,  warned  us  of  our  proximity  to  the  domains  of  the 
goddess  Pele.  We  tested  their  depth  by  dropping  stones 
into  them,  but  could  not  hear  them  strike  the  bottom. 

Suddenly  we  came  to  the  brink  of  a  pit,  eight  hun- 
dred feet  deep,  and  capacious  enough  to  engulf  the  city 
of  New  York.  The  hut  into  which  the  guide  led  us  was 
built  on  the  very  edge  of  this  abyss,  so  that  on  entering 
the  bearers  swung  the  cradle  quite  over  it.  I  was  hor- 
rified with  the  sensation  that  we  were  on  the  point  of 
tumbling  in,  and  begged  to  go  back  to  the  woods  for 
the  night.     Alone  in  my  fears,  I  soon  recovered.     We 


The  Great   Volcano.  65 

unpacked  our  bedding  and  prepared  supper,  and  domes- 
ticated ourselves  for  the  night.  Our  pillows  were  ar- 
ranged so  that  we  could  command  a  splendid  night-view 
of  the  fires  below.  The  air  was  keenly  cold.  All  our 
cloaks  and  blankets  were  insufficient,  but  the  steam  from 
a  crevice  close  beside  our  bed  supplied,  in  some  meas- 
ure, the  deficiency. 

Imprisoned  giants  forging  thunderbolts  could  not 
have  made  a  more  unearthly  roaring  than  the  confined 
gases  in  the  caverns  below — whistling,  bellowing  like 
ten  thousand  bulls.  Strange  to  say,  we  enjoyed  some 
refreshing  sleep  in  spite  of  the  awful  surroundings. 

In  the  morning  we  descended  into  the  crater  by  a 
sloping  path,  fringed  on  one  side  with  ferns  growing  out 
of  the  crevices.  On  reaching  the  bottom  the  lava  lay 
broken  and  scattered,  like  the  ruins  of  demolished  cas- 
tles. Every  few  steps  we  passed  a  smoking  chimney, 
throwing  off  suffocating  gases  from  the'  subterranean 
laboratory  beneath.  The  interest  became  intense,  and 
precluded  all  sense  of  fear,  and  we  rushed  on  with  fleet 
steps,  till  we  came  to  a  broad  area  of  fresh  lava.  The 
specimens  were  very  beautiful  and  scattered  around  in 
fantastic  shapes,  such  as  might  be  the  work  of  fairy  fingers. 
A  little  further  on  we  came  to  a  lake  of  red,  boiling 
lava,  surging  and  dashing  under  the  opposite  ledge  like 
waves  on  the  sea  shore.  We  approached  as  near  as  the 
intense  heat  would  allow,  and  saw  that  the  center  was 
blackened  over.  We  tried  the  thickness  of  the  crust 
by  tossing  in  some  bits,  of  lava,  when  to  our  astonish- 
ment the  center  of  the  lake  broke  and  threw  up  a  fiery 
jet  of  gory  red,  increasing  and  rising  higher  and  higher, 
as  we  stood  fascinated  at  the  sight.  The  cauldron  was 
filling,  and  the  increased  heat  warned  us  to  retire.  The 
retreat  up  the  sharp  projecting  stones  was  performed 


66  Honolulu. 


with  speed  quickened  by  fear.  We  climbed  out  of  the 
pit  and  got  back  to  the  forest  for  refuge  and  rest  a  little 
after  sunset,  quite  satisfied  with  Madam  Pele's  entertain- 
ment and  hospitality. 

I  must  here  note  that  the  walls  of  the  king's  chapel 
are  commenced,  and  many  natives  are  employed  in  cut- 
ting and  dragging  coral  stones  from  the  sea-shore.  It  is 
a  Herculean  task  to  perform  this  work  without  beasts  of 
burden,  or  the  aid  of  any  labor-saving  machinery.  The 
nation  is  still  destitute  of  masons,  carpenters,  and  black- 
smiths. The  only  implement  used  is  a  narrow  spade  for 
agricultural  purposes. 

When  timber  is  required  from  the  mountain,  they 
form  a  company  and  drag  it  over  hill  and  dale  with 
ropes,  at  a  great  waste  of  human  strength  and  sinew. 
Horses  are  scarce  and  kept  only  for  pleasure-riding. 
The  mission  owns  a  few  yoke  of  working  oxen. 

The  other  day  it  occurred  to  one  of  us  to  try  the  ex- 
periment of  training  a  horse  to  draw  stone.  A  band 
and  collar  of  coarse  canvas  were  put  together,  and  with 
a  few  lessons  the  animal  was  trained  to  the  drudgery  of 
useful  labor.  The  natives  look  on  and  marvel  at  the 
skill  of  the  foreigner.  We  hope  soon  to  see  mules  and 
donkeys  relieving  men's  bleeding  shoulders.  Patient 
teaching  is  required,  as  "  Rome  was  not  built  in  a  day." 


XVIII. 


Children  of  Missionaries — How  to  be  Educated- 
Different  Opinions. 


IT  can  not  be  said  of  the  ladies  of  the  Sandwich  Islands 
Mission  that  "  they  lend  their  graces  to  the  grave, 
and  keep  no  copy."  Most  of  the  number  have  large 
families.  An  idea  prevailed  in  the  earlier  years  of  the 
mission  that  the  children  could  not  be  trained  here,  but 
must  be  sent  to  the  fatherland.  I  shall  never  forget 
some  of  those  heart-rending  parting  scenes.  Little  chil- 
dren, aged  only  six  or  seven  years,  were  torn  away  from 
their  parents,  and  sent  the  long  voyage  around  Cape 
Horn,  to  seek  homes  among  strangers.  They  have 
sometimes  fared  hard  during  those  long  voyages,  with- 
out a  mother's  care,  with  no  one  but  the  rough  sons  of 
Ocean  to  nurse  and  watch  them.  They  have  sometimes 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  selfish,  exacting  guardians,  and 
been  unkindly  dealt  with  or  sadly  neglected.  Their 
pillows  have  been  wet  with  childhood's  tears,  as  they 
thought  of  their  far-off  homes,  and  felt  the  need  of  pa- 
rental sympathy  and  tenderness. 

There  are  many,  I  fear,  who  can  attest,  by  sad  expe- 
rience, to  the  bitterness  df  this  heart-crushing  system. 
On  one  occasion  I  accompanied  some  friends  to  a  ship 
just  starting  for  America.  As  the  vessel  moved  from 
the  wharf,  there  was  one  affectionate  little  girl,  not  more 
than  seven  years  old,  standing  on  the  deck  and  looking 

(67) 


68  Honolulu. 


at  her  father  on  the  shore,  the  distance  between  them 
widening  every  moment.  She  stretched  out  her  little 
arms  toward  him  and  shrieked  with  all  her  strength, 
"  Oh,  father,  dear  father,  do  take  me  back  !  "  I  turned 
away  from  the  heart-rending  scene,  and  was  thankful 
that  it  was  Abraham,  not  Sarah,  that  was  called  to 
Mount  Moriah. 

Whether  such  separations  were  really  necessary,  was 
a  question  upon  which  different  opinions  were  held. 
Some  parents  ran  the  risk  of  keeping  their  children,  in 
the  belief  that  the  example  of  Christian  families  was  of 
great  importance  to  the  heathen  people  with  whom  they 
dwelt.  Why  had  their  Heavenly  Father  entrusted  them 
with  the  high  and  holy  parental  office,  if  they  might 
thrust  it  off  or  delegate  it  to  others  ? 

We  had  no  schools  but  such  as  mothers  made  in  the 
nursery,  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  morning,  sometimes 
gathering  the  children  of  neighboring  families,  in  order 
to  economize  time  and  strength.  What  a  host  of  pleas- 
ant memories  are  clustered  around  those  hallowed  hours 
of  home  instruction,  home  songs,  and  home  pleasures, 
all  the  world  shut  out  by  taboo  walls  around  the  play- 
ground !  A  little  walk  at  sunset  by  the  sea  beach  or 
cocoanut  grove  was  the  reward  of  good  behavior.  The 
children  were  always  accompanied  in  these  walks  by 
either  father  or  mother.  The  native  language  and  na- 
tive intercourse  were  strictly  prohibited.  Mothers  were 
often  weary  and  desponding  in  the  effort  to  teach  and 
train  their  children  with  one  hand,  and  to  labor  for  the 
people  with  the  other,  but  they  toiled  on  with  patience, 
and  watched  and  prayed,  and,  like  Jochabed,  could  say: 

"  With  invocations  to  the  living  God, 
I  twisted  every  slender  reed  together, 
And  with  a  prayer  did  every  osier  weave." 


XIX. 


Schools  for  Native  Children— -School-House  — Ma* 
terials. 


IN  1832  I  had  the  honor  of  assisting  some  of  the 
ladies  of  the  mission  in  organizing  the  first  school 
for  native  children.  The  adult  portion  of  the  pop- 
ulation had  been  collected  into  schools  by  thousands, 
and  were  learning  to  read  and  write.  But  the  children 
were  not  yet  tamed,  and  to  catch  them  even  was  con- 
sidered an  impossibility.  Their  parents  said  they  were 
like  the  goats  on  the  hills,  and  had  as  little  idea  of  sub- 
jugation. The  chivalrous  notion  prevailed  in  those  olden 
times  as  now,  that  woman's  influence  was  all-powerful, 
and  that  whatever  ladies  undertook  was  sure  to  be  ac- 
complished. Higher  motives  than  the  meed  of  human 
praise  stimulated  the  already  overtaxed  energies  of  some 
of  that  number  in  our  mission,  and  induced  them  to  try. 
The  first  effort  was  made  with  the  children  of  the 
church-members,  in  an  unfurnished  building.  The  little 
urchins  were  not  quite  naked,  but  we  did  not  mind  the 
garments,  if  so  be  their  skins  were  clean.  Cotton  cloth 
was  scarce,  and  the  people  poor;  but  water,  thank 
Heaven,  was  plenty.  We  brought  the  children  together, 
looked  into  their  bright  faces,  asked  their  names,  sung 
to  them,  and  induced  them  to  join  us.  Thus  we  discov- 
ered that  they  possessed  the  requisites  for  musical  cult- 
ure, ear  and  voice.  We  made  for  them  drawings  in 
natural  history,  which  were  hung  where  all  could  see 
them.      A   description    of   each   was   taught   them,    in 

(69) 


70  Honolulu. 


the  form  of  questions  and  answers.  Quick  to  compre- 
hend,  they  repeated  readily,  and*  in  concert,  moral  max- 
ims, hymns,  and  portions  of  the  Bible. 

These  exercises  gained  their  attention,  and  gave  them 
some  idea  of  order.  The  singing  and  pictures  attracted 
other  children,  and  the  number  increased.  Seated  to- 
gether on  the  mats,  it  was  difficult  to  keep  them  quiet, 
for  their  tongues  and  elbows  were  in  constant  motion. 
Some  method  of  seating  them  separately  was  a  subject 
of  study.  Wooden  seats  were  too  expensive  and  not  to 
be  thought  of;  some  one  suggested  rows  of  adobies 
(sun-dried  bricks),  with  mat  coverings.  A  bottomless 
soap-box  served  for  a  mold.  The  parents  of  the  schol- 
ars were  cheerful  in  the  labor,  and  with  the  aid  of  a 
bright  sun  this  substantial  material  was  soon  arranged 
in  several  long  rows  of  seats,  neatly  covered  with  rush 
mats  braided  by  the  mothers.  One  step  in  the  ladder 
of  progress  was  gained,  and  we  could  keep  them  together 
a  longer  time,  with  less  fatigue  and  more  profit.  Slates 
and  pencils  added  another  charm ;  the  children  were 
delighted  with  their  efforts  in  copying  the  pictures  that 
hung  on  the  wall.  It  might  be  difficult  to  distinguish 
which  was  camel,  elephant,  sheep,  or  horse ;  but  no  mat- 
ter, the  children  were  busy  and  happy. 

Native  women  assisted  in  teaching  reading;  and  oral 
lessons  in  geography,  with  the  aid  of  outline  maps,  were 
given  them.  The  elements  of  arithmetic  also  were 
taught  in  the  same  simple  method.  As  the  children  had 
never  before  seen  a  map  of  the  world,  they  were  quite 
astonished  at  the  comparative  littleness  of  their  own 
islands. 

It  is  not  boasting  to  say  that  some  of  the  best  busi- 
ness men  in  the  nation  can  be  pointed  out  as  once  pupils 
in  this  first  school  for  native  children. 


XX. 

Reinforcements —  Household  Duties — Discussions—' 
Location — A  Maternal  Association — More  Discus- 
sions —  A  New  School-room  —  School  for  Young 
Chiefs — Birth  of  a  Princess — Prince  Alexander — 
English  Finery — November  Weather. 

Honolulu,  1837. 

FIVE  reinforcements  have  been  added  to  the  Mission 
since  our  arrival.  These  all  land  in  Honolulu, 
and  are  distributed  among  the  different  families 
until  after  the  general  annual  meeting,  when  all  the 
members  from  other  islands  and  stations  assemble  here. 

A  good  deal  of  preparation  is  necessary  for  this  emer- 
gency, in  repairing,  house-cleaning,  sewing,  etc.  It  is  no 
trifle  to  set  a  table  for  fifteen  or  twenty  for  a  period  of 
six  weeks,  although  the  fare  be  simple.  It  is  an  object 
to  secure  as  many  hours  as  possible  from  household  du- 
ties to  attend  the  sessions,  since  many  of  the  discussions 
are  important,  the  debates  animated  and  interesting. 
The  ladies  take  their  children  and  amuse  them  with  sew- 
ing, sketching,  and  cutting  paper. 

As  the  Mission  is  now  so  large,  and  nearly  every  State 
in  the  Union  has  its  representative,  it  is  not  strange  that 
opinions  of  duty  and  economy  should  conflict  at  times. 
There  are  a  few  radicals  among  the  number  who  would 
divide  up  the  mission  and  marshal  each  clan  under  lead- 
ers, in  some  specific  reform ;  others  plead  with  equal 
earnestness  for  a  concentration  of  all  the  strength  and 

(71) 


j  2  Honolulu. 


energy  at  command  in  carrying  forward  the  great  work 
of  evangelizing  the  people,  the  work  we  were  sent  here 
to  do,  falling  back  upon  the  old  motto,  "  In  union  is 
strength." 

One  of  the  vexed  questions  is  the  "common  stock 
system,"  which  assigns  an  equal  division  of  every  article 
in  the  mission  depository  to  each  individual  member. 
Rigid  notions  of  self-denial  and  economy  would  incline 
some  to  refuse  their  allotted  portion,  but  this  only  leaves 
a  surplus  for  the  careless,  less  conscientious  member  to 
appropriate  and  waste.  Presents  and  aid  from  personal 
friends  are  sometimes  an  occasion  for  envy  or  jealousy. 

Location  is  another  question  difficult  to  divest  of  self- 
ishness. Prepossession  in  favor  of,  or  prejudice  against, 
a  certain  field  of  labor,  partiality  for  this  or  that  associ- 
ate, are  severe  tests  of  disinterestedness  and  amiability. 
In  some  instances  where  these  predilections  have  been 
gratified,  one  year's  experience  has  taught  the  important 
lesson,  that  often — 

"  Our  very  wishes  give  us  not  our  wish." 

Whenever  the  debate  grows  stormy,  or  threatening 
even,  the  sessions  are  suspended,  and  a  day  appointed 
for  prayer  and  religious  exercises,  which  is  observed  by 
all  the  families.  These  meetings  for  prayer,  conference, 
and  confession  of  sin  are  always  precious  seasons,  and  do 
not  fail  to  secure  the  desired  blessing.  The  brethren 
resume  business,  and,  if  possible,  agree ;  if  not,  agree  to 
differ,  and  go  on  harmoniously. 

The  ladies  have  formed  a  Maternal  Association,  em- 
bracing every  mother  and  every  child  in  the  mission. 
Meetings  are  frequent  during  the  general  meeting,  in 
which  essays  are  read  on  various  practical  subjects.  The 
difficulties  in  training  properly  the  children  in  the  islands, 


The  "General  Meeting?  73 

are  freely  and  confidentially  discussed  with  mutual  sym 
pathy  and  prayer.     The  name  and  age  of  each  child  is 
registered,  and  each  is  in  turn  the  subject  of  special 
prayer.     The  Lord  hearkens  and  hears,  and  we  trust  a 
book  of  remembrance  is  written. 

The  business  finished,  the  general  meeting  adjourns  to 
another  year.     We  meet  for  the  last  time,  and  sing, 

"  Blest  be  the  tie  that  binds." 

After  procuring  their  supplies  for  the  year,  the  families, 
new  and  old,  embark  for  their  various  homes  by  the  ear- 
liest opportunity. 

It  takes  time  to  recover  from  the  fatigue  and  excite- 
ment of  these  annual  gatherings.  One  is  reminded  of  a 
ship  at  sea  after  a  gale,  rolling  hither  and  thither,  with 
canvas  flapping,  unable  to  make  any  progress.  The  sys- 
tematic arrangements  of  the  household  are  necessarily 
interrupted  during  these  seasons.  The  children  are  the 
sufferers ;  wildness  and  insubordination  are  the  natural 
fruits  of  so  much  company  and  so  much  time  for  play. 
New  faults  are  discovered,  and  each  mother  is  inclined 
to  regard  her  own  child  as  the  victim,  and  not  the  ag- 
gressor. In  due  time,  however,  equilibrium  is  restored, 
with  perceptible  gain  of  wisdom  and  energy. 

While  the  season  for  the  general  meeting  is  always  in 
Spring  time,  the  Fall  is  the  period  when  returning  fam- 
ilies embark  for  a  voyage  around  Cape  Horn.  Outfits  of 
warm  clothing  for  the  cold  weather,  and  garments  to 
last  the  children  during  the  fine  weather,  without  wash- 
ing, are  something  of  a  tax  to  prepare,  and  the  families 
of  Honolulu  have  the  privilege  of  doing  this  extra  work. 

We  have  made  some  pleasant  acquaintances  among 
the  Methodist  brethren  (who  labor  in  Oregon  Territory) 
as  they  go  and  come  by  way  of  the  Islands. 
4 


74  Honolulu. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  visit  of  Friend  Dan 
iel  Wheeler  and  his  son  Charles,  a  few  months  ago. 
They  are  making  missionary  visits  around  the  world  in 
their  own  little  yacht,  the  Henry  Freeling.  They  spent 
six  months  among  us,  visiting  all  the  stations.  The  old 
gentleman  has  resided  some  years  in  St.  Petersburg, 
although  an  Englishman  by  birth.  He  preached  two 
hours  to  our  native  congregation,  with  Mr.  B for  in- 
terpreter. The  sentences  were  so  long,  and  the  thought 
wrapped  in  so  much  mystification,  that  it  did  not  make 
a  great  impression,  except  upon  one's  patience.  The  na- 
tives are  keen  to  detect  peculiarities,  and  inquire  what  is 
the  difference  between  our  religions.  I  undertook  the 
other  day  to  explain  to  my  scholars  the  different  denom- 
inations. "Have  you  different  gods?"  "No,  we  all 
worship  the  same  living  and  true  God."  "  Do  you  have 
different  Bibles  ?  "  "  Oh,  no,  there  is  but  one  Bible,  the 
Holy  Scriptures  contained  in  the  Old  and  New  Testa- 
ments, written  by  men  divinely  inspired."  "  Have  you 
all  the  same  Saviour  ?  "  "  Yes,  the  same."  "  Well,  then, 
with  the  same  God,  with  the  same  Bible,  and  the  same 
Saviour,  we  can  not  understand  why  you  differ."  I  was 
ashamed  to  tell  them  that  the  mode  of  baptism  with 
water  was  one  cause  of  division  ;  and  another,  the  method 
of  church  government ;  and  another,  whether  prayers 
should  be  read  from  a  book,  or  offered  as  the  heart 
prompted ;  that  the  wisest  and  best  of  Christians,  minis- 
ters of  the  Gospel  even,  were  very  decided  in  their  opin- 
ions on  these  subjects.  And  so  I  touched  the  matter 
lightly,  telling  them  the  time  is  near  when  there  will  be 
one  fold  and  one  shepherd. 

Now  about  our  new  school-room.  Captain  B — —  gave 
a  lot  of  old  bricks  to  Dr.  Judd,  with  which  he  paved  the 
basement  of  our  dwelling-house.     He  cut  through  the 


School  for  Children  of  the  Chiefs,         75 

wall  in  front,  made  a  door  and  flight  of  steps,  which,  with 
two  glazed  windows,  makes  a  fine  dispensary  and  school- 
room. I  have  selected  four  promising  boys  from  the 
children's  school,  who  come  four  days  in  the  week  to 
learn  arithmetic  and  geography,  preparatory  to  admission 
to  the  High  School  at  Lahainaluna.  One  of  them  will 
probably  study  medicine.  In  addition  to  this  duty,  in 
which  I  take  great  delight,  the  teachers  in  the  children's 
school  come  daily  for  an  hour's  instruction.  It  is  a  great 
saving  of  time  to  have  a  place  so  near,  neatly  fitted  up 
with  seats,  desks,  and  mats. 

At  the  general  meeting  in  1838,  as  a  reinforcement  of 
school-teachers  had  just  been  welcomed  to  the  islands, 
one  of  the  most  important  questions  was  in  regard  to  a 
school  for  the  children  of  the  chiefs.  A  request  had 
been  presented  for  one  of  the  new  families  to  be  set 
apart  for  this  work.  The  pupils  were  to  reside  in  the 
family,  and  the  instruction  was  to  be  given  in  the  English 
language.  Some  advocated  the  democratic  principle, 
that  chiefs  and  people  should  be  educated  in  the  same 
school  and  on  the  same  footing.  Others  argued  that 
there  was  great  need  that  the  future  rulers  of  the  nation 
should  have  special  pains  taken  with  them,  and  be  edu- 
cated with  reference  to  their  position  and  prospective 
duties.  The  debate  ended  in  the  appointment  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Cooke  to  commence  a  family  boarding-school 
for  this  class  of  pupils.  The  chiefs  were  liberal  in  their 
appropriations,  a  site  was  selected  in  the  rear  of  the 
palace  grounds,  and  the  buildings  in  process  of  erection 
before  the  year  closed. 

November  I,  1838. 

The  state  carriage  is  again  at  the  door.  A  young 
princess  is  added  to  the  interesting  family  of  our  queen, 


j6  Honolulu. 


Kinau,  already  blessed  with  four  sons,  although  u  one  is 
not."  She  now  rejoices  in  the  long-desired  boon,  a 
daughter  of  her  own,  and  her  bliss  is  perfect. 

The  child  is  to  be  called  Kamamalu,  the  name  of  the 
queen  who  died  in  England,  to  which  we  have  suggested 
the  addition  of  Victoria.  Strange  to  say,  the  mother  is 
to  keep  and  nurse  this  child  herself — an  anomaly  in  the 
annals  of  Hawaiian  aristocracy.  Governor  Adams  has 
put  in  a  claim,  but  it  is  overruled  by  argument  and  per- 
suasion. 

One  of  the  ladies  of  the  Oregon  Mission,  detained  here 
for  some  months,  is  teaching  a  little  school  of  the  Mission 
children  in  a  small  thatched  house  in  our  garden.  Sev- 
eral scholars  from  the  foreign  families  in  town  attend 
also.  Prince  Alexander  comes  daily,  accompanied  by 
two  attendants,  to  learn  English.  The  king  has  re- 
quested us  to  take  him  into  our  family,  and  train  him  as 
we  do  our  own  children,  which  we  would  gladly  do,  if  it 
were  possible  to  detach  him  from  such  a  retinue  of  nurses 
and  servants.  He  is  sprightly  and  attractive,  and  is  this 
moment  on  my  bed,  playing  "  hide  and  seek  "  with  the 
children.  He  just  now  inquired  for  "  Music,"  a  name  he 
has  given  to  a  gentleman  in  the  family  who  sings  and 
plays  the  accordeon. 

November  3^. 

After  dressing  the  little  princess  to-day,  I  was  sent  for 
by  her  aunt,  to  look  over  some  of  the  old  treasures 
brought  from  England  in  the  Blonde  with  the  royal  party, 
and  to  select  whatever  could  be  remodeled  for  the  little 
heiress.  There  is  one  court  dress  of  white  satin,  with 
ample  train,  and  richly  embroidered  with  silver.  It  is 
still  brilliant  and  untarnished.  Another  of  maroon- 
colored  velvet,  with  satin  trimming  of  the  same  shade ; 


The  Gloomy  Month,  77 

I  once  saw  the  Princess  Nahienaena  wear  it.  There  were 
head-dresses  of  tulle  flowers,  feathers,  and  pearls,  shawls 
of  blonde  lace,  and  a  few  valuable  jewels.  The  old  lady 
showed  me  a  breast-pin  of  clustered  rubies  and  emeralds, 
which  she  said  cost  fifteen  hundred  dollars. 

It  is  the  gloomy  month  of  the  year.  The  wind  from 
the  south  throws  up  a  heavy  surf,  which  roars  lilce  dis- 
tant thunder  as  it  strikes  the  shore.  The  atmosphere, 
damp  and  heavy,  is  filled  with  the  peculiar  odor  of  sea- 
weed and  fresh  coral.  I  listen  to  the  moaning,  shrieking 
blast  and  drenching  rain,  and  think  of  the  poor  natives 
in  straw  huts,  so  slightly  built  that  to-night's  storm  will 
leave  many  families  shelterless. 


XXI. 


Temperance  in  1839 — Security — Education  in  the  Na- 
tive Language— Political  Economy — Mr.  Richards — 
Feudal  System  —  Laws — Dr.  Judd — Difficulties — 
French  Priests  —  Proselytes  —  Idolatry — A  rrival  0/ 
La  Place  — His  Demands — Reflections — The  East 
India  Squadron  under  Commodore  Read — Death  of 
Kinau. 


IN  the  years  1838  and  1839  tne  success  of  the  schools 
and  prosperity  of  the  churches  were  at  the  culmi- 
nating point ;  the  latter  were  crowded  with  willing 
worshipers.  Thousands  of  children  were  taught  in  Sun- 
day-schools, and  instructed  in  separate  congregations. 
The  "  cold  water  army "  embraced  legions  of  valiant 
champions,  who  mustered  occasionally  in  holiday  dress, 
and  marched  with  flaunting  standards  of  "  Down  with 
Rum,"  "  Cold  water  only." 

Life  and  property  were  everywhere  safe,  and  it  was 
seldom  that  persons  could  be  found  who  did  not  regard 
themselves  as  Christians. 

There  was  not  the  drawback  of  a  foreign  tongue  as  a 
medium  of  communication  with  the  native  mind.  The 
entire  Bible  was  translated  and  printed  in  the  native  lan- 
guage. There  was  also  a  Book  of  Hymns,  and  other  vol- 
umes— Reading  Lessons,  Hymns  for  Children,  Natural 
History,  Geography,  Mathematics,  Astronomy,  Moral 
Science,  the  Pilgrim's  Progress,  etc.,  and  a  semi-monthly 
newspaper ;  sixty  volumes  in  all,  and  embracing  a  wider 
(78) 


The  Old  System  of  Government.  79 

range  of  literature  than  constituted  the  library  of  many 
happy  children  and  youth  in  New  England  forty  years 
ago. 

It  was  a  maxim  with  the  Mission  that  in  order  to  pre- 
serve the  nation,  they  must  preserve  its  speech.  The 
construction  of  the  Hawaiian  language  is  so  simple,  when 
compared  with  the  English,  that  it  is  no  marvel  that  so 
many  of  the  natives  acquired  the  art  of  reading  and  writ- 
ing it.  The  proportion  is  estimated  as  greater  than  in 
any  other  country  in  the  world,  except  Scotland  and 
New  England. 

The  people  generally  understood  and  could  explain 
the  plan  of  salvation  through  a  crucified  Redeemer,  and 
were  better  theologians  than  political  economists.  The 
rulers  in  particular  felt  their  deficiency  in  respect  to  the 
latter.  They  had  applied  to  the  Mission  and  its  patrons 
for  aid  from  the  United  States,  in  the  failure  of  which, 
Mr.  Richards  was  allowed  to  withdraw  his  connection 
from  the  Mission  and  enter  the  service  of  the  Govern- 
ment as  translator  and  political  adviser. 

The  old  system  of  government  was  an  unlimited  mon- 
archy ;  but  the  power  was  somewhat  divided  and  shared 
by  a  body  of  chiefs,  male  and  female,  who  met  occa- 
sionally in  council.  The  rulers  were  owners  of  the  soil. 
The  people  were  tenants  at  will,  and  liable  to  be  dis- 
possessed at  any  time,  and  victimized  by  the  fickleness 
of  their  landlords.  The  king  and  chiefs  were  very  tena- 
cious of  their  right  to  the  soil,  and  allowed  foreigners  to 
occupy  it  only  upon  the  same  feudal  tenure  as  the  natives. 
And  this  led  to  constant  broils.  The  arrival  of  a  ship-of- 
war  was  the  occasion  to  search  up  old  debts  and  make 
out  new  claims  to  land.  Native  courts  were  very  in- 
formal, the  governor  of  each  island  constituting  both 
judge  and  jury.     The  poll-tax  was  paid  in  kind  at  the 


8o  Honolulu. 


commencement  of  the  year.  The  people  came  in  train* 
to  the  palace  and  handed  it  over  in  person.  There  was 
no  appropriation  bills,  and  where  the  money  went  to, 
concerned  only  the  fortunate  receivers.  Kamehameha  III. 
was  reckless  in  money  matters,  generous  to  a  fault,  and 
surrounded  by  a  set  of  parasites  to  whom  he  could  never 
say  "  No." 

Mr.  Richards  entered  upon  his  new  duties  with  a 
small  salary.  A  simple  code  of  laws  adapted  to  the 
state  of  the  people  was  soon  after  published.  It  defined 
the  labor  tax,  granted  to  the  common  people  the  right 
to  hold  personal  property,  and  regulated  various  other 
important  matters.*  Mr.  Richards  lived  at  Lahaina. 
At  Honolulu,  the  metropolis  and  principal  commercial 
city,  others  were  frequently  called  upon,  as  interpre- 
ters and  translators,  in  the  transaction  of  business  with 
foreigners. 

As  Dr.  Judd  was  not  a  clergyman,  and  had  been  the 
medical  attendant  and  personal  friend  of  the  royal  family, 
it  was  natural  that  they  should  often  apply  to  him.  He 
taught  clerks  to  keep,  in  the  native  language,  records  of 
all  important  business,  and  to  preserve  all  receipts  on 
payment  of  debts,  in  order  to  prevent  being  compelled 
to  pay  them  twice,  which  had  not  unfrequently  hap- 
pened. 

In  the  midst  of  so  much  prosperity  there  was  one  dark 
cloud  casting  its  shadow  over  our  sunny  sky..  The  an- 
tagonism of  certain  foreign  officials  sat  like  an  incubus 
upon  the  rulers,  to  which  was  added  a  determined  perse- 
verance on  the  part  of  France  to  thrust  brandy  and  Ro- 
manism upon  the  nation. 


*  But  these  laws  were  chiefly  a  codification  of  existing  regulations 
and  laws. 


French  Priests.  81 

On  the  arrival  of  the  first  French  priests,  who  asked 
permission  to  remain,  Kaahumanu  said : 

"  We  do  not  want  you.  We  have  put  away  our  idols, 
and  abandoned  our  old  system  of  religious  forms  and 
penances.  We  have  received  the  Word  of  God  by  the 
hand  of  teachers  whom  we  love,  and  with  whom  we  are 
satisfied.  Our  kingdom  is  a  little  one.  We  do  not  wish 
the  minds  of  our  subjectss  distracted  by  any  other  sect. 
Go  away  and  teach  destitute  countries,  which  have  not 
received  the  Bible." 

They  not  obeying  her  mandate,  she  fitted  out  a  vessel 
to  carry  them  to  the  coast  of  California,  but  this  was  a 
waste  of  money,  for  others  followed,  more  or  less  dis- 
guised, to  fill  their  places.  The  "  Societe  de  Propaganda 
Fide,"  of  France,  resolved  to  place  one  of  their  priests  by 
the  side  of  every  Protestant  clergyman  in  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  The  good  queen  of  Louis  Philippe  was  zealous 
in  their  cause,  and  French  ships-of-war  landed  the  gradu- 
ates of  the  College  of  Picpus  on  many  shores  of  the 
Pacific.  They  were  sustained  by  French  guns — meet 
arguments  for  kings,  perhaps,  but  not  so  appropriate  for 
the  ambassadors  of  the  Cross. 

It  was  unfortunate  that  the  first  proselytes  of  the  new 
faith  were  persons  disaffected  toward  the  chiefs.  Some 
of  them  were  excommunicated  members  of  the  Protest- 
ant churches,  or  had  been  denied  admission.  When 
Kaahumanu  discovered  that  they  wore  crosses  and  im- 
ages around  their  necks,  as  distinctive  badges  of  their 
creed,  she  demanded  their  surrender. 

"  Do  you  not  know  that  the  king's  first  law  forbade 
image  worship?     Take  those  from  your  necks." 

The  silence  maintained   by  most  of  the  priests,  and 
the  answer  of  one,  that  they  would  not  relinquish  them, 
even  if  their  bodies  were  thrown  into  the  fire  or  boiling 
4* 


§2  Honohdu. 


water,  alarmed  and  astonished  the  chiefs.  Accustomed 
as  they  had  always  been  to  implicit  obedience,  they  im 
ferred  very  naturally  that  such  an  element  in  their  little 
kingdom  would  prove  very  dangerous,  if  permitted  to 
increase.  They  did  not  regard  these  neophytes  as  re- 
ligious people,  or  punish  them  for  any  truly  religious 
sentiment,  but  for  obstinacy  in  retaining  their  images, 
which  the  chiefs  regarded  as  idolatry,  and  could  not  be 
made  to  understand  the  difference. 

They  argued  that  their  old  gods,  but  recently  de- 
stroyed by  royal  power,  were  mere  representatives  of 
the  spiritual,  or  symbol  of  the  thing  signified,  and  was  it 
not  the  same  with  the  Roman  Catholics  ?  A  contest  for 
supremacy  as  rulers  led  them  to  adopt  measures  harsh 
and  impolitic,  which  never  were  and  never  can  be  justi- 
fied in  suppressing  a  religious  faith.  .... 

In  July  following  a  French  frigate  of  sixty  guns,  under 
command  of  Admiral  La  Place,  entered  the  port,  and, 
after  an  interview  with  the  French  Consul,  made  the 
following  demands  of  the  Hawaiian  Government : 

"  That  the  Catholic  religion  be  declared  free ; 

"  That  a  site  for  a  church  be  immediately  granted  ; 

"  That  prisoners  of  the  Catholic  faith  be  immediately 
set  free ; 

"  That  twenty  thousand  dollars  be  taken  on  board  the 
frigate  by  some  person  of  rank,  to  be  held  as  a  guarantee 
for  future  good  behavior." 

Three  days  grace  were  allowed,  when,  if  the  demands 
were  not  complied  with,  the  nation  would  be  involved 
in  all  the  horrors  of  war.  American  missionaries  were 
classed  with  the  native  rulers,  as  instigators  of  the  per- 
secution against  the  Romanists,  and  denied  the  pro- 
tection of  their  country's  flag.  The  American  Consul 
had  but  just  entered  office.     The  Premier  likewise  wa 


La  Places  Demand.  83 

new  in  office,  and  both  were  timid.  We  wero  absent 
making  a  tour  of  the  island  in  company  with  our  es* 
teemed  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jarves.  A  messenger  from 
the  metropolis  met  us  about  thirty  miles  from  home, 
with  an  order  from  the  chiefs  "  for  all  the  able-bodied 
men  in  the  district  to  prepare  food  quickly  and  hasten 
to  Honolulu,  as  the  French  had  made  war."  The  man 
added,  on  his  own  account,  that  the  French  ship  carried 
guns  which  could  fire  around  the  mountains  and  send 
balls  all  over  the  island  !  We  mounted  our  horses  and 
hastened  on  to  the  next  station  at  Kaneohe,  ten  miles 
from  the  city,  where  the  gentlemen  left  the  women  and 
children,  and  hastened  to  Honolulu. 

What  could  the  rulers  do  but  submit  ?  The  sum  re- 
quired was  quickly  collected — a  part  of  it  borrowed  from 
the  American  merchants  and  taken  on  board  the  frigate. 
The  land  for  the  church  was  granted.  The  Catholic 
prisoners  had  been  set  at  liberty  some  weeks  before. 

La  Place  evidently  intended  to  take  the  islands,  as  he 
did  not  think  impossible  that  so  large  a  sum  could  be 
raised  in  so  short  a  time.  In  a  note  to  the  foreigners  he 
said :  "  I  have  prepared  forces  sufficiently  strong,  that 
in  giving  a  dreadful  blow  the  French  shall  be  the  masters 
and  the  protectors  of  the  town  at  the  same  time." 

While  the  course  pursued  by  the  chiefs  toward  the 
proselytes  can  not  be  justified,  it  did  seem  hard,  when 
they  had  but  just  emerged  from  a  sea  of  troubles,  in 
quelling  civil  dissension,  quenching  the  fires  of  their  own 
distilleries,  and  struggling  for  foothold,  that  a  new  creed 
should  thus  be  forced  upon  them.  They  were  afraid  of 
its  influence,  and  had  reason  to  be  so. 

While  the  king  and  chiefs  were  writhing  under  these 
humiliating  exactions,  an  American  squadron  arrived 
from  the  East,  under  the  command  of  Commodore  Read. 


84  Honolulu, 


The  corps  of  officers  were  highly  intelligent  and  accom. 
plished  gentlemen,  some  of  them  professing  Christians, 
On  learning  that  American  families,  of  helpless  women 
and  children,  had  been  proscribed,  and,  in  case  of  hostility, 
were  to  be  handed  over,  without  judge  or  jury,  to  the 
merciless  mob,  their  indignation  was  somewhat  aroused, 
and  the  regret  often  expressed  that  they  had  not  arrived 
a  little  sooner. 

Pleasant  and  friendly  intercourse  during  a  visit  of  five 
weeks  encouraged  the  desponding  chiefs,  and  obliterated 
in  some  degree  the  idea  that  we  were  defenseless  exiles 
from  our  native  land. 

In  April,  1839,  Kinau  was  attacked  with  an  illness 
which  terminated  in  congestion  of  the  brain  and  paraly- 
sis. She  died  after  lingering  four  days  in  an  unconscious 
state.  The  hand  of  the  Lord  fell  heavily  upon  us,  but 
we  bowed  in  submissive  silence,  for  He  had  said,  "  Put 
not  your  trust  in  princes." 


XXII. 

Sickness  and  Death  of  a  Child — Hoohano,  a  Medical 
Student — Native  Poetry — Death  of  a  Midshipman. 

Honolulu,  November  25,  1839. 

AFTER  twelve  years  of  uninterrupted  domestic 
happiness  and  prosperity,  death  has  come  and' 
knocked  at  our  windows.  Our  first-born,  the 
son  of  our  strength,  our  promising,  our  beloved  Gerrit  is 
dead !  He  was  cut  down  in  the  full  tide  of  blooming 
health  and  spirits  by  a  malady  that  remedies  could  not 
reach.  I  can  not  tell  how  it  was,  but  I  felt,  from  the 
first  symptoms  of  the  disease  which  appeared,  that  he 
would  die,  and  the  dear  child  seemed  to  have  the  same 
presentiment.  He  died  on  the  fourth  day  of  his  illness. 
Hoohano,  Dr.  Judd's  medical  student,  who  was  much 
attached  to  Gerrit,  watched  by  him  the  night  after  he 
died,  and  in  the  morning  he  handed  us  some  lines  writ- 
ten in  the  native  language,  on  a  leaf  in  his  journal ;  the 
following  is  a  translation  : 

"  Farewell  to  the  beautiful  flower  of  the  doctor's  garden ; 
It  has  fallen  and  vanished  away. 
The  flower  that  budded  first  and  blossomed  fain 
Its  splendor  was  seen ;  its  fragrance  exhaled  ; 
But  the  burning  sun  came  and  it  withered. 
And  that  beautiful  blossom  has  fallen  ! 
The  occupant  of  the  garden  then  wondered 
That  a  certain  flower  should  have  fallen. 

(35) 


86  Honolulu. 


He  sought  it,  but  found  it  not  again ;  it  was  gone ; 

It  had  perished  ;  it  had  mingled  with  the  dust. 

Alas !  what  pity  for  the  flower  plants, 

Which  grow  up  well,  and  lo  !  they  are  withered. 

All  the  flowers  bowed  their  heads  smelling  the  fragrance  ; 

They  stood  around  in  great  sorrow. 

Alas  !  alas  !  O  my  blossom  that  has  fallen. 

The  chief  tenant  inquired  of  his  landlord, 

'  What  thinkest  thou  concerning  this  flower, 

Which  thou  didst  plant  in  my  border  ? ' 

The  Lord  replied :  '  I  have  taken  away  the  image  of  all  its 
glory; 

Its  hut  has  fallen  and  is  mingled  with  the  dust/ 

How  beautifully  did  the  plant  flourish  ; 

Great  compassion  for  the  tenant  resident ; 

Mourning  and  searching  with  great  lamentation ; 

Whither,  O  Gerrit,  hast  thou  gone  ? 

When  wilt  thou  return  to  thy  birthmates  ? 

Alone  hast  thou  gone  in  the  way  that  is  lonely ; 

Thou  hast  gone  a  stranger  in  an  unknown  path. 

O  Gerrit !  Gerrit !  behold  we  all 

Are  stricken  flowers  and  soon  shall  fall. 

Where  art  thou  ?    Go,  thou,  and  be  a  pioneer  to  welcome  us. 

O  Gerrit !    Thou  goest  at  the  pleasure  of  thy  Lord, 

And  none  can  forbid  thy  design ;  go,  thou, 

Travel  on  until  thou  art  wholly  gone  along  the  silent  path- 
way; 

Ascend  the  ladder  of  God's  kingdom, 

And  pass  within  the  glorious  walls  of  Jerusalem, 

And  enter  into  the  peace  of  God's  kingdom. 

Thou  art  singing  hymns  with  good  angels, 

And  never  ceasing  is  thy  employment  there. 

O  Gerrit !  Gerrit !  Deeply  we  mourn  that  we  can  not  be- 
hold thee  ; 

Forever  hast  thou  gone  from  our  sight, 

And  wilt  return  hither  no  more." 


No  one  can  imagine  how  this  sweet  effusion  from  the 
heart  of  this  poor  boy  affected  us.     It  suffers  by  trans- 


Death  of  a  Midshipman.  87 

lation.  The  "occupant  of  the  garden"  and  the  "chief 
tenant "  refer  to  the  father ;  the  "  tenant  resident "  to  the 
mother.  We  never  allow  our  children  to  be  out  of  our 
sight  without  knowing  where  they  are.  How  often  he  has 
heard  my  voice  calling  him,  as  he  used  to  go  sometimes 
to  Hoohano's  room  and  sing  with  him.  "Pioneer"  re- 
fers to  a  custom  among  the  chiefs,  as  they  move  from 
place  to  place,  of  sending  on  messengers  to  build  houses 
and  make  preparations  for  their  arrival. 

A  young  midshipman  from  the  United  States  ship-of- 
war  John  Adams  was  left  in  our  family  sick  with  con- 
sumption. He  was  fully  aware  of  his  condition,  and 
earnest  in  his  preparation  for  death.  Gerrit  spent  hours 
each  day  in  reading  to  him,  and  they  formed  a  warm 
friendship  for  each  other.  We  used  to  pray  with  him 
daily ;  and  little  thought  the  Lord  was  preparing  us  in 
attendance  on  this  young  stranger  to  perform  the  same 
tender  office  for  our  own  dear  boy. 

Mr.  M died  the  next  day  after  Gerrit's  funeral, 

and  was  buried  by  his  side  in  the  mission  cemetery. 

•  Not  lost,  but  gone  before." 


XXIII. 

Second  Visit  to  Wailuku — Lahaina  Luna — Hara 
Traveling— Over  the  Isthmus— Welcome— Changes 
at  Wailuku — Female  Boarding-schools — Sickness 
among  the  Pupils— East  Maui,  the  Wheat  Region. 

SOON  after  the  death  of  our  dear  boy,  Dr.  Judd  was 
called  to  visit  Wailuku,  and  investigate  the  cause  of 
a  new  disease  among  the  pupils  of  the  Female 
Boarding-school  established  there  under  the  care  of  Rev. 
J.  S.  Green  and  Miss  Ogden.  Little  persuasion  was 
necessary  to  induce  me  to  accompany  him.  A  night 
and  a  day  of  discomfort  on  board  a  native  craft  brought 
us  to  Lahaina,  where  we  spent  a  few  days  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Richards.  We  were  detained  some  weeks  in  Laha- 
inaluna  in  attendance  on  the  sick,  and  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  arrangements  of 
the  High  School  established  by  Rev.  L.  Andrews.  We 
were  delighted  with  the  institution,  the  fine  views  its 
locality  commands,  everything  but  the  red  dust,  which 
sweeps  down  the  hills  in  clouds  that  sometimes  threaten 
the  neighborhood  with  the  fate  of  premature  burial. 
With  the  aid  of  the  slightest  breeze,  this  red  powder  is 
in  circulation,  and  leaves  its  trace  on  everything  in-doors 
and  out. 

From  Lahainaluna  we  went  to  Wailuku,  which  town 

we  had  visited  thirteen  years  before.     A  new  road  had 

been  made,  around  the  foot  bf  the  mountain,  the  crook- 

edest,  rockiest,  ever  traveled   by    mortals.     Our  party 

(88) 


A    Trip  to   Wailuku.  89 

consisted  of  five  adults  and  five  children.  We  had  but 
two  horses.  One  of  these  was  in  a  decline  on  starting ; 
it  gave  out  in  a  few  miles,  and  was  left  to  die  by  the 
road-side.  The  other,  "  Old  Lion,"  deserves  to  be  im- 
mortalized for  the  services  he  performed  that  day,  in 
carrying  three  and  four  children  at  a  time  on  his  broad 
back  up  and  down  that  unsheltered,  zigzag  mountain 
road.  An  ox  team  and  fresh  horses  were  expected  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  but  none  appeared,  and  night- 
fall overtook  us  at  the  "  Isthmus,"  with  ten  miles  more 
to  travel.  The  wind  from  the  other  shore  swept  across 
it  and  was  cooling  us  a  little  too  rapidly  after  the  intense 
heat  of  the  day.  To  go  farther  without  rest  or  aid  was 
impossible.  The  shelter  of  an  old  canoe-house  and  a 
broken  ox-cart  was  all  the  immediate  neighborhood  af- 
forded. The  children  were  tumbled  into  the  latter,  and 
I  lay  down  on  my  baggage  with  a  violent  toothache, 
while  my  husband  went  in  search  of  aid.  Two  horses 
and  a  man  were  procured,  and  we  mounted,  with  the 
little  ones  tied  on  behind,  with  shawls  around  our  waists, 
so  they  should  not  fall  off  if  they  dropped  asleep.  The 
man  carried  one  on  his  back,  and  we  started  off  to  finish 
our  journey  in  a  darkness  that  might  be  felt. 

The  miles  were  long,  and  before  we  reached  the  village 
we  found  the  native,  who  carried  the  little  girl,  had  taken 
another  road.  Dr.  Judd  went  back  to  find  him,  and  I 
reached  the  white  picket  gate  and  lighted  cottage  of  our 
missionary  friends  first.  Lanterns  and  men  were  soon 
mustered  to  go  in  search  of  the  stragglers,  who  were  met 
just  outside  the  gate,  all  safe. 

The  warm  welcome,  the  cheerful  parlor,  and  well- 
spread  board  of  our  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Green,  soon 
dispelled  the  fatigue  and  disappointments  of  the 
wearisome  day.     Auwae's  native  village  had  become  a 


90  Honolulu. 

flourishing  missionary  station.  The  little  cluster  o! 
whitewashed  adobe  dormitories,  where  the  pupils  of  the 
seminary  lodged,  was  a  pretty  relief  among  the  deep 
green  shrubbery  of  the  rich  gardens.  A  large  native 
church  edifice  was  in  course  of  erection,  under  the  ener- 
getic superintendence  of  Rev.  R.  Armstrong.  The 
neighborhood  was  roused,  and  busy  in  carrying  forward 
plans  for  improving  the  place  and  developing  the  native 
resources  of  industry  and  wealth. 

The  boarding-school  for  native  girls  was  the  pride  of 
the  place.  It  was  a  pleasant  sight  to  watch  the  little 
girls  spreading  the  table  and  eating  with  plates,  knives, 
forks,  and  spoons,  or  neatly  dressed  and  at  work  in  the 
flower  garden,  where  each  pupil  had  a  patch  to  cultivate, 
or  to  see  them  in  the  work-room,  learning  to  sew,  knit, 
spin,  and  plait  straw,  also  to  crochet  tidies  and  edgings. 

The  malady  prevailing  among  them,  which  had  created 
such  a  panic  among  the  parents  and  guardians  as  to  en- 
danger the  permanence  of  the  institution,  was  a  low, 
nervous  fever.  The  doctor  called  it  marasmus.  Several 
had  died  already,  and  many  were  sick.  It  was  undoubt- 
edly caused  by  the  great  change  in  their  habits  of  living. 
Unaccustomed  to  any  restraint,  irregularly  fed,  without 
mental  or  physical  effort  required  of  them,  and  spending 
most  of  their  time  in  the  open  air,  the  change  was  too 
great,  too  sudden  to  be  made  safely,  and  without  prep- 
aration. It  became  necessary  to  allow  more  hours  of 
unrestrained  freedom  and  exercise. 

Auwae,  our  hospitable  chief,  and  many  of  his  hardy 
bird-catchers  had  passed  away,  just  at  the  dawn  of  a  bet- 
ter day  among  his  people. 

In  company  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Armstrong  we  visited 
East  Maui,  and  spent  a  few  days  in  the  beautiful  region 
of  country  occupying  the  slope  of  Haleakala.     We  trav- 


East  Maui.  91 


eled  over  sand-hills  and  up  the  ascent  for  fifteen  miles  in 
an  ox-cart,  which  was  well  provided  with  pillows,  blankets, 
and  small  stores  of  bread,  butter,  doughnuts,  and  baked 
pork  and  beans.  There  were  but  two  white  men  in  all 
the  region  at  that  time.  One  of  them,  Mr.  Miner,  put 
me  on  his  beautiful  white  horse,  the  gayest  animal  I  ever 
mounted,  and  we  all  had  a  ride  to  the  village  on  the  sea- 
shore, to  attend  a  meeting  with  the  natives.  The  air 
was  bracing,  and  our  horses  flew  over  the  plain.  This 
fine  portion  of  our  islands  is  now  (i860)  all  purchased  by, 
and  under  the  cultivation  of,  white  men.  Thousands  of 
acres  are  covered  with  wheat-fields,  waving  their  golden 
plumes,  and  there  are  also  here  several  of  the  best  sugar 
plantations  on  the  islands.  Fields  of  wild  strawberries 
lie  around  the  sides  of  the  mountain.  The  summit  of 
this  old  giant  crater  is  occasionally  covered  with  snow, 
and  the  view  from  it  is  extremely  grand.  It  is  becoming 
a  favorite  summer  resort  for  pleasure-seekers  and  invalids. 


XXIV. 

The  King  and  Premier — Return  to  Lahaina — Intem- 
perance— Beginning  of  Reform — Return  to  Hono- 
lulu—  Trouble  on  Board  the  Schooner — The  Royal 
School — Changes  in  the  Mission — Punahou  School — 
Departure  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham. 

1839—  184I. 

AS  to  the  business  transactions  of  the  nation,  King 
Kamehameha  III.  was  at  this  time  almost  a  myth  ; 
when  he  was  most  wanted  he  was  not  to  be  found. 
The  new  Premier,  Kekauluohi,  was  amiable  and  well  dis- 
posed, but  what  could  a  weak  woman  do,  destitute  as 
she  was  of  the  statesmanlike  qualities  of  her  predecessors 
in  office? 

Both  of  these  important  functionaries  resided  at  La- 
haina instead  of  Honolulu,  the  metropolis,  and  his 
Majesty  was  wasting  a  mint  of  money  in  the  erection  of 
a  palace,  which  was  intended  to  be  immensely  grand,  but 
which  was  never  to  be  finished.  It  was  demolished  some 
years  afterward. 

On  our  return  to  Lahaina  Mr.  Richards  and  Dr.  Judd 
called  to  pay  their  respects  to  his  Majesty,  but  he  was 
indulging  in  one  of  his  periodical  revels,  which  lasted 
sometimes  for  weeks.  His  temper  and  disposition,  when 
sober,  were  mild  and  generous,  but  strong  drink  made 
him  a  madman.  The  night  before  our  arrival  he  had,  in 
his  frenzied  fury,  severely  injured  his  friend  and  favorite, 
John  Young.  When  sufficiently  sobered  to  comprehend 
(92) 


The  Royal  School.  93 


what  he  had  done,  he  dashed  away  his  bottles  in  distress 
and  mortification. 

Another  interview  was  sought,  when  the  king  received 
his  friends  with  kindness,  and  expressed  deep  regret  at  the 
course  he  had  been  pursuing,  and  at  the  disgrace  brought 
upon  himself  and  by  his  excesses.  He  pleaded,  by  way 
of  apology,  his  embarrassments  with  foreign  powers.  The 
French  had  crippled  him.  and  the  English  Consul  boasted 
of  a  list  of  grievances  long  enough  to  reach  around  the 
palace.  The  debts  were  enormous,  with  little  prospect 
of  liquidation.  The  ship  of  State  was  about  stranding 
on  a  lee  shore.     What  could  be  done  to  save  it  ? 

He  said  if  Mr.  Richards  and  Dr.  Judd  would  earnestly 
engage  to  aid  him,  he  would  pledge  his  honor  to  reform 
his  personal  habits,  and  curtail  his  expenditures,  so  as  to 
pay  some  of  the  most  pressing  debts  immediately.  He 
would  in  future  conduct  himself  in  all  respects  worthy  of 
his  position  and  responsibility,  as  the  head  of  his  people. 
As  these  pledges  were  voluntary  on  his  part,  they  inspired 
new  hope,  and  we  returned  to  Honolulu  a  little  encour- 
aged. 

The  passage  down  was  made  in  a  native  schooner ;  as 
a  specimen  of  Hawaiian  skill  in  navigation  there  was  a 
violent  altercation  most  of  the  night  between  the  captain 
and  the  cabin-boy,  whether  the  point  of  land,  visible 
through  the- haze  and  rain,  was  the  island  of  Molokai,  or 
Barber's  Point,  on  Oahu.  Daylight  proved  the  boy  to 
be  in  the  right ;  we  were  just  off  the  harbor  of  Honolulu. 

A  little  oasis  in  all  this  desert  of  discouragement,  was 
the  school  established  for  educating  the  young  chiefs. 
The  future  welfare  and  perpetuity  of  the  Government 
seemed  to  center  in  the  success  of  this  effort.  A  good 
deal  of  Dr.  Judd's  time  was  occupied  with  the  chiefs  and 


94  Honolulu. 


Governor  Kekuanaoa  in  preliminary  arrangements  for  a 
permanent  institution.  A  document  with  the  signatures 
of  the  principal  chiefs,  and  dated  "  Lahaina,  June  i,  1839," 
now  lies  before  me,  petitioning  Dr.  Judd  to  accept  the 
trusteeship  of  the  school,  and  to  become  the  guardian  of 
the  royal  pupils. 

Governor  Kekuanaoa  aided  most  generously  in  erecting 
the  buildings,  and  the  chiefs  were  liberal  in  their  appro- 
priations. The  most  delicate  and  difficult  task  to  perform 
was  the  separation  of  the  young  princes  from  doating 
guardians  and  a  host  of  attendants  of  both  sexes,  whose 
business  of  a  life-time  had  been  to  follow  their  footsteps  and 
anticipate  their  wants.  Trained  in  every  indulgence;  and 
petted  by  such  a  retinue  of  servants,  how  could  they  be 
subdued  to  order  and  taught  self-reliance  ? 

The  choice  of  teachers  was  most  happy.  In  Mrs. 
Cooke  the  pupils  enjoyed  the  instructions  of  an  educated 
and  intellectual  woman,  combined  with  the  cheerful,  ju- 
dicious counsels  of  an  affectionate  mother.  It  was  a 
great  pleasure  to  visit  them  and  trace  their  progress  in 
mastering  that  difficult  language — the  English — through 
the  medium  of  which  they  acquired,  in  due  time,  a 
knowledge  of  all  the  branches  necessary  for  a  substantial 
education.  A  natural  taste  for  music  and  drawing  was 
also  cultivated,  in  which  many  of  them  excelled. 

Three  sons  and  one  daughter  of  our  lamented  Premier, 
Kinau,  were  pupils  in  this  school.  We  loved  them  very 
tenderly  for  their  mother's  sake,  and  did  not  forget  her 
dying  charge,  to  watch  over  and  care  for  them.  Many 
fond  hopes  were  cherished  that  these  young  chiefs  would 
graduate  from  the  school  with  the  endowments  of 
wisdom  and  piety.  The  care  of  this  school  went  into 
Mr.  Richards'  hands  when  he  was  appointed  Minister  of 
Public  Instruction. 


Changes  in  the  Mission.  95 

The  Mission  was  undergoing  great  changes  at  this 
time.  Large  families,  with  increasing  demands  for  sup- 
port and  education,  were  revolutionizing  the  old  system 
of  common  stock.  Aid  in  teaching  the  older  children 
was  imperiously  demanded.  The  Gloucester  arrived  in 
1 84 1,  and  brought  the  Rev.  D.  Dole  and  wife,  who  were 
willing  to  turn  aside  from  ordinary  missionary  labor 
among  the  natives,  and  commence  a  school  expressly  for 
the  children  of  the  missionary  families.  A  fine  location 
was  chosen  at  Punahou,  situated  two  miles  from  Hono- 
lulu, at  the  entrance  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  Manoa. 

This  land  was  a  gift  to  Mr.  Bingham  from  Governor 
Boki,  just  before  the  latter  sailed  on  his  wild  enterprise 
after  sandal-wood.  It  contains  living  springs  of  pure 
cold  water,  and  embraces  all  the  requisites  of  a  little 
paradise.  Foundations  of  coral  stone  were  laid,  upon 
which  the  new  adobe  buildings  were  to  be  erected,  en- 
closing two  courts.  This  portion  of  the  labor  fell  to  Dr. 
Judd.  Mr.  E.  O.  Hall  enclosed  the  premises  with  a  high 
stone  wall. 

Our  old  and  tried  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham,  left 
the  islands  in  1840,  to  seek  health  and  rest  in  their  native 
land,  but  with  the  prospect  of  returning  in  eighteen 
months,  a  prospect  which  was  never  fulfilled. 


XXV. 

Kapiolani — Caves  at  Kaawaloa—A  Crazy  Woman 
Exploring— What  She  Found — Kapiolani  tells 
Stories — Consequences  of  Violating  a  Taboo — Sur 
gical  Operation — Death  of  Kapiolani. 

1 84I. 

ABOUT  the  year  1821,  as  one  of  the  pioneer  mis- 
sionaries was  walking  on  the  sea-shore,  he  saw, 
sitting  on  a  rock,  a  large,  finely-proportioned  native 
woman,  saturating  her  dusky  skin  with  the  fragrant 
cocoanut  oil,  and  basking  in  a  tropical  noon-day  sun,  like 
a  seal  or  sea-elephant.  It  is  difficult  to  believe  this  per 
sonage  to  have  been  our  present  lady-like  and  sensitive 
Kapiolani.*  You  have  seen  her  name  in  print  often,  as 
she  was  the  heroic  woman  who  ventured  into  the  tabooed 
crater  of  the  goddess  Pele,  against  the  remonstrances  of 
her  terror-stricken  attendants,  who  watched  her  descent, 
expecting  to  see  her  swallowed  up  in  the  fiery  embrace 
of  the  incensed  deity.  She  accompanied  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Ruggles  and  ourselves  into  the  sacred  enclosure  at  Hoo- 
naunau,  forbidden  to  women  in  the  olden  time ;  no  one 
but  Kaahumanu  had  been  bold  enough  to  tread  the  en- 
chanted ground.  Naihe,  her  stern  and  lordly  husband, 
sometimes  rebukes  her  audacity  in  tampering  with  an- 
cient usages  and  superstitions.     One  reason  may  be  that 


*  The  present  Queen,  wife  of  King  Kalakaua,  is  named  Kapiolani. 
after  the  subject  of  this  sketch. 
(96) 


Unwrapping  Idols.  97 

he  is  the  guardian  of  those  old  tombs  of  kings  and  chief- 
tains, which  is  an  honorable  and  sacred  trust. 

The  high  rocky  bluff,  just  back  of  their  villa  at  Kaa- 
waloa,  where  Captain  Cook  fell,  is  full  of  caves  where  a 
long  line  of  old  warrior  kings  are  sleeping.  One  bright 
day  when  Mrs.  Ruggles  and  I  were  alone  with  Kapiolani, 
we  sat  down  and  watched  the  movements  of  a  crazy 
woman  who  had  climbed  the  precipice,  and  spent  the 
day  in  passing  in  and  out  of  the  different  caves,  and  in 
airing  and  throwing  down  those  secreted  treasures  of 
centuries.  We  expected  she  would  fall  and  be  dashed 
in  pieces,  as  the  giddy  height  she  attained  appeared  in- 
accessible to  other  than  aerial  beings. 

What  was  our  surprise,  just  after  lamplight,  to  see  her 
enter  the  door  and  deposit  at  Naihe's  feet  a  huge  bundle 
done  up  in  black  kapa.  "  Here  it  is,"  she  said,  "  I  have 
been  busy  all  day  airing  your  property/'  He  gave  her 
a  blow  with  his  cane,  and  demanded  how  she  dared  ven- 
ture into  such  a  tabu  place,  and  bade  her  restore  every 
thing  as  she  found  it,  the  next  day. 

Kapiolani  watched  the  proceedings  in  silence  for  a  few 
moments,  and  then  whispered  to  Mrs.  Ruggles  and  myself 
to  interfere  with  the  decision  of  her  husband.  "  Let  us 
see  what  is  in  the  mysterious  bundle,"  she  said,  "  it  is 
of  no  use  to  the  dead."  Naihe  gave  the  bundle  a  push 
with  his  cane,  adding,  "  Do  what  you  tike  with  it." 

Our  curiosity  was  greatly  excited  while  Dr.  Judd  re- 
moved the  wrappings  of  kapa.  First  came  a  hideous 
idol,  with  staring  eyes  and  grinning  teeth  of  white  pearl 
shell,  and  a  tuft  of  human  hair  on  the  top  of  the  head. 
Then  another  smaller  one,  less  hideous,  of  similar  work- 
nanship.  These  were  household  gods,  and  buried  with 
their  proprietors.  "Send  them  to  your  friends  in 
America,"  said  Kapiolani,  "  and  tell  them  such  were  our 
5 


98  Honolulu. 


gods,  before  you  sent  us  the  Bible."  There  were  various 
other  articles,  such  as  polished  cocoanut  shells,  a  canoe 
paddle,  mats,  and  a  variety  of  kapa,  all  supposed  to  be 
useful  in  the  "spirit  land." 

Kapiolani  was  very  much  excited,  and  after  the  crazy 
crone  was  disposed  of  and  the  treasures  distributed 
among  her  guests,  she  entertained  us  with  stories  and 
incidents  of  her  childhood. 

Bananas  and  various  kinds  of  fish  were  forbidden  to 
women  under  the  old  system.  One  day  she  resolved  to 
taste  the  banana,  and  risk  the  consequences  if  detected. 
Another  girl  was  with  her  of  equal  rank  and  years. 
They  concealed  the  fruit  as  well  as  they  could  with  the 
palm  of  the  hand  and  thumb,  and  rushed  into  the  sea  to 
bathe  and  eat  the  forbidden  fruit.  An  eagle-eyed  priest 
discovered  them  ;  they  were  tried  for  the  ungodly  deed 
and  condemned  to  suffer  the  penalty,  which  was  poverty, 
loss  of  rank,  and  to  remain  unmarried.  This  they  must 
suffer,  unless  suitable  expiation  could  be  made.  The 
priest  suggested  the  sacrifice  of  a  little  boy,  a  favorite 
page  of  Kapiolani's,  as  a  suitable  offering.  He  was  im- 
mediately seized  and  carried  to  the  sacred  inclosure  at 
Hoonaunau,  and  was  seen  no  more.  Kapiolani  called 
for  the  same  old  priest  to  come  and  sit  by  her,  and  say 
what  he  now  thought  of  those  proceedings.  "  Oh,"  said 
he,  "  those  were  dark  days,  though  we  priests  knew  bet- 
ter all  the  time.  It  was' power  we  sought  over  the  minds 
of  the  people  to  influence  and  control  them."  Kapio- 
lani asked  him  what  he  did  with  the  boy.  "  He  was 
strangled  on  the  altar,"  said  he.  She  hid  her  face  with 
her  hands  and  wept.  "  Oh,  why  did  not  Christians 
come  sooner  and  teach  us  better  things  ?  " 

Kapiolani  is  now  here  on  a  visit ;  she  has  had  a  cancer 
removed   from   her   breast,   and   is   rapidly   improving. 


Death  of  Kapiolani.  99 

When  the  surgeons  entered  to  perform  the  operation, 
she  appeared  a  little  fluttered  and  nervous,  requested  a 
few  moments  to  go  'by  herself  and  pray.  She  returned 
calm  and  dignified,  took  her  seat  and  submitted  to  the 
surgeon's  knife  with  unflinching  fortitude  and  firmness. 
Her  heart  is  so  full  of  gratitude  for  the  recovery  of  her 
health  she  can  not  be  quiet  a  moment,  and  wants  to 
enlist  all  hearts  in  a  song  of  praise. 

....  How  can  I  write  the  sad  sequel?  Our  noble 
Kapiolani  was  attacked  with  erysipelas  from  a  walk  in 
the  hot  sun,  and  died  very  suddenly.  Another  prop 
removed  from  the  nation. 


XXVI. 

The  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  —  Theit 
Operations — A  Picnic — Ascent  of  Ma  una  Loa— 
Dr.  JudcTs  Letter— His  Danger  and  Escape— Our 
First  Thanksgiving— More  about  the  Expedition— 
A  Native  Trick— Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jarves. 

THE  visit  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion in  1840,  '41,  and  '42,  with  sixty  officers  and  a 
scientific  corps;  men  of  rare  talents  and  polished 
manners,  was  no  common  event  in  our  isolated  kingdom. 
Commander  Wilkes  set  up  his  observatory  on  shore  and 
occupied  for  some  months  the  house  and  premises  of  the 
Premier.  The  scientific  gentlemen  pursued  their  re- 
searches in  their  several  departments  with  indomitable 
energy,  surveying  our  coasts  and  harbor,  measuring  the 
heights  of  the  mountains,  penetrating  the  deep  glens  of 
the  forests  for  rare  plants,  scaling  precipices  for  birds, 
and  diving  into  ocean's  depths  for  specimens  of  its  va- 
ried and  beautiful  tenantry. 

During  their  first  visit  to  Honolulu,  the  officers  made 
a  kind  of  picnic  party  on  the  plain,  the  first  to  which  all 
parties  in  our  community,  grave  and  gay,  were  ever  in- 
vited, and  met  on  common  ground.  Forty  white  ladies 
sat  down' to  a  table  spread  with  luxuries  from  the  four 
quarters  of  the  globe,  and  arranged  with  the  elegance 
peculiar  to  the  officers  of  the  navy.  It  was  something 
new  to  us,  and  I  fancied  that  some  faces,  little  accustomed 
to  smile,  looked  brighter  and  happier  for  a  long  time 
afterward. 

(100) 


Ascent  of  Mauna  Loa.  101 

The  crowning  exploit  of  the  expedition  was  the  ascent 
of  Mauna  Loa  on  Hawaii',  far  -making  observations  on 
the  vibrations  of  the  pendulum'.  •  Choice  and  heavy  ap- 
paratus, house  material  arid  -food;  for; the  • party  were 
transported  sixty  miles  'on  meri^  shouhi'ers/  and  up  a 
high  mountain  of  rugged  lava.  Dr.  Judd  accompanied 
the  expedition  as  interpreter  and  overseer  of  the  natives. 

Cold,  hunger,  sore  feet,  and  fatigue  were  obstacles 
overcome  by  the  indomitable  courage  of  commander  and 
men.  Captain  Wilkes  pitched  his  tent  on  the  summit, 
nearly  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
where  he  remained  three  weeks,  and  completed  his  ob- 
servations, in  spite  of  storm  and  tempest,  which  in  two 
instances  prostrated  their  tents.  The  following  is  an 
extract  from  Dr.  Judd's  letters : 

"  HiLO,  January,  1841. 

".  .  .  .  I  went  down  into  Kilauea  on  the  16th  to  collect  gases, 
taking  a  frying  pan,  in  hopes  of  dipping  up  some  liquid  lava. 
Kalama  went  with  me  to  measure  the  black  ledge,  and  I  had  five 
natives  to  carry  apparatus  and  specimens. 

"  We  descended  the  black  ledge,  placed  the  tube  for  gases,  and 
went  in  search  of  liquid  lava.  As  we  passed  a  small  crater,  quite 
cool  apparently,  I  observed  a  quantity  of  '  Pele's  hair '  on  the 
sides,  and  stopped  to  gather  it.  I  stepped  by  degrees  from  one 
stone  to  another,  gathering  and  handing  the  specimens  to  Kala- 
ma, till  I  had  passed  quite  under  the  ledge.  Suddenly  I  heard 
the  report  of  an  explosion  ;  a  fiery  jet  burst  up  from  the  center, 
and  a  river  of  fire  rolled  toward  me.  The  heat  was  intense.  I 
could  not  retrace  my  steps  and  face  the  fire,  so  I  turned  to  the 
wall,  but  could  not  climb  over  the  projecting  ledge.  I  prayed 
God  for  deliverance,  and  shouted  to  the  natives  to  come  and 
take  my  hand,  which  I  could  extend  over  the  ledge  so  as  to  be 
seen.  Kalama  heard  me  and  came  to  the  brink,  but  the  intense 
heat  drove  him  back.  'Do  not  forsake  me  and  let  me  perish/ 
I  said.  He  came  again  and  threw  himself  on  the  ground,  with 
face  averted  to  avoid  the  heat,  seized  my  hand  with  both  his 


102  Honolulu. 


and  I  threw  myself  out.  The  fire  swept  under  as  I  went  ovei 
the  ledge,  burning  my  shirt -sleeves  and  wrist,  and  blistering 
Kalama's  face, 

"  The  crater  filled  up  in  a  few  minutes,  and  I  took  the  frying 
pan,  which  w  as  lashed  tc  a  long  pole,  and  dipped  it  full,  but  find- 
ing it  imperfect,  emptied  it,  procured  another,  and  ran  away 
with  all  speed,  as  it  began  to  overflow. 

"  It  is  forty  days  since  we  left  the  Vincennes.  I  am  sitting 
by  a  table  in  a  tent,  for  the  purpose  of  paying  off  and  settling 
with  the  natives  employed  in  carrying  burdens  up  the  mountain. 
The  toils  of  the  undertaking  have  been  great,  but  I  hope  to  reap 
a  rich  harvest  in  renewed  health  and  vigor." 

It  was  the  pleasant  season  of  the  year.  The  weather 
was  sufficiently  cool  to  wear  woolen  clothing.  The 
earth,  refreshed  with  rain,  had  yielded  abundance  of  fruit 
and  vegetables.  The  churches  had  enjoyed  a  year  of 
jubilee,  and  the  schools  flourished  under  the  skillful 
hands  of  the  graduates  from  the  High  School.  Free 
from  inward  strife  and  outward  oppression,  we  could 
worship  under  our  own  vine  and  fig  tree,  with  none  to 
molest  or  make  us  afraid. 

Friends  in  the  fatherland  were  enjoying  this  happiest 
of  family  festivals.  There  were  twenty-five  adults  and 
thirty-two  children  at  the  station  in  Honolulu,  and  a 
proposition  to  unite  in  appropriate  religious  exercises 
and  a  Thanksgiving  dinner,  met  with  unanimous  ap- 
proval. 

Each  lady  was  to  furnish  such  dishes  as  suited  her 
taste  and  convenience,  while  the  table  arrangements  were 
the  portion  of  one  individual.  Our  young  friends,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Jarves,  were  with  us,  and  were  constituted  a 
committee  on  decorations.  Evergreens  were  brought 
from  the  mountains,  and  converted  into  wreaths  and 
festoons  to  adorn  the  walls.  Shells,  lava,  and  minerals 
were  arranged  in  one  corner  to  form  a  grotto.     If  the 


A  "  Thanksgiving  Feast!'  103 

tiny  windows  did  not  look  really  gothic,  it  was  not  the 
fault  of  the  committee.  The  room  was  pionounced 
"splendid"  by  the  juveniles  of  the  party;  and  it  is  a 
matter  of  doubt  if  a  peep  at  the  old  masters,  in  Mr. 
Jarves's  new  collection  of  paintings,  would  now  afford 
them  greater  pleasure. 

In  laying  the  table,  care  was  taken  to  procure  crockery 
of  one  color  (no  easy  task  in  those  days),  and  the  ladies 
vied  with  each  other  in  producing  the  old-fashioned 
dishes  (New  England  style)  of  chicken  and  pumpkin  pie. 
Oranges  and  bananas  took  the  place  of  apples.  The 
children  dined  early  by  themselves,  in  an  arbor  in  the 
garden,  and  had  a  merry  time. 

At  three  o'clock  we  had  donned  our  best  apparel,  and 
sat  down  at  the  long  table  to  enjoy  a  double  feast.  The 
past  was  reviewed,  when  we  "came  over  Jordan  with  a 
staff,  and  had  now  become  two  bands."  We  read  the 
103d  Psalm,  and  sang, — 

"  When  all  Thy  mercies,  O,  my  God." 

The  happiness  of  the  elders  was  too  calm,  too  deep  to 
seek  expression  in  a  dance,  but  the  children  played 
"blind-man's  buff,"  and  "hunt  the  slipper,"  and  I  am 
sure  we  all  felt  better  and  more  inclined  to  the  routine 
of  sober,  every-day  toil  for  this  episode  in  missionary 
life. 

I  can  not  close  this  chapter  without  mentioning  again 
the  pleasure  we  have  received  from  the  repeated  visits  of 
the  exploring  expedition.  Commodore  Wilkes  and  Cap- 
tain Hudson  have  lived  on  shore  and  been  our  neighbors. 
The  latter  attends  our  prayer  meetings,  and  is  an  earnest 
Christian.  We  are  deeply  indebted  to  them  both  foi 
many  acts  of  kindness  and  friendship. 


104  Honolulu, 


The  other  evening  I  had  a  look  at  the  moon  through 
the  large  telescope  at  the  observatory,  and  it  made  me 
dream  of  the  "  wise  who  shall  shine  as  the  brightness  of 
the  firmament,  and  they  that  turn  many  to  righteousness 
as  the  stars  forever  and  ever." 

I  must  record  a  trick  played  on  me  by  a  native  during 
the  first  residence  of  the  officers  on  shore.  He  was  em- 
ployed at  the  observatory  as  an  errand  boy,  and  came 
every  morning  to  me  for  a  pitcher  of  fresh  milk,  which  I 
was  only  too  happy  to  furnish,  as  we  had  an  abundance. 
As  they  were  about  leaving,  this  boy  presented  them 
with  a  bill  for  the  milk,  in  my  name,  at  twelve  and  a  half 
cents  per  quart !  He  received  the  money  and  pocketed 
it,  of  course.  The  fraud  was  accidentally  discovered  dur- 
ing their  second  visit,  and  afforded  me  an  opportunity  to 
expose  the  rogue  and  exculpate  myself  from  such  mean- 
ness. Do  you  not  think  our  people  are  making  progress 
in  civilized  accomplishments  ?  To  my  fourth  son,  born 
at  this  time,  I  have  given  the  name  of  Wilkes,  after  our 
friend  the  Commodore. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jarves  are  pleasant  members  of  our 
household.  Mr.  Jarves  is  about  to  commence  the  publi- 
cation of  a  newspaper  in  English,  which  is  much  needed 
in  our  rapidly  increasing  foreign  community.     He  is  a 

nephew  of  my  dear  aunt  B ,  of  Sackett's  Harbor 

memory.  I  love  him  for  her  sake,  and  esteem  both  very 
highly  for  their  own  intrinsic  merits.  Mrs.  Jarves  has  a 
piano,  and  sings  and  plays  well.  Our  children  are  fond 
of  music,  and  you  would  laugh  to  see  us  all  hang  around 
her  as  she  plays  and  sings  "  Woodman,  spare  that  tree." 

The  recent  death  of  Mrs.  Munn  left  two  little  boys  to 
be  cared  for,  the  younger  of  whom  we  have  taken  into 
our  family,  and  with  six  of  our  own,  have  a  merry  house- 
hold. 


Prosperity  of  the  Mission.  105 

My  husband's  practice  in  the  foreign  community  in- 
creases every  day,  and  if  our  rules  allowed  him  to  receive 
pay  for  it,  a  day's  earnings  would  support  his  family  a 
week.  It  does  not  seem  right  to  draw  our  support  from 
the  treasury  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  when  ample  oppor- 
tunity is  afforded  to  take  care  of  ourselves  without 
abridging  our  usefulness  to  the  nation  or  Mission.  I 
have  written  to  my  friends  to  send  me  no  more  boxes  of 
donations,  but  to  turn  their  charities  into  more  needy 
channels. 

Some  of  the  native  churches  are  supporting  their  pas- 
tors and  paying  the  school  teachers.  Lands  and  herds 
belonging  to  the  Mission  will  soon  be  productive,  and 
will  make  it  independent  of  the  Board  for  support.  This 
is  as  it  should  be.  "  Let  us  provide  things  honest  in  the 
sight  of  all  men." 

5" 


XXVII. 


The  Belgian  Contract — A  Lease  '/all  Unoccupied 
Lands — Object  of  the  Lease — Mr.  Brinsmade1  s  De- 
parture—  Temperance  at  Lahaina — Plans  of  the 
Government — Departure  of  Richards  and  Haalilio 
—  The  English  Consul  Follows— Deputy  Consul  not 
Acknowledged — Commissions — Dr.  JudcTs  Salary 
~One  more  Commission — Letter  of  Dr.  Judd  to 
the  Mission— A  Vote  of  Thanks— A  Word  of  Chang* 
-—What  Mr.  Brinsmade  did. 


1842. 

CASTLE  builders  are  found  in  every  community ; 
men  of  high  purposes,  gigantic  plans,  and  benev- 
olent intentions.     They  would  elevate   the   low, 
employ  the  idle,  educate  the  mass,  and  provide  a  panacea 
for  all  social  evils. 

A  grand  scheme  for  advancing  the  interests  of  the  na- 
tion, but  mainly  for  protection  against  the  grasp  of  a 
foreign  power,  was  secretly  drawn  up  at  Lahaina  by 
Messrs.  Richards  and  Brinsmade,  and  signed  in  due  form 
by  the  king  and  premier.  By  this  document  all  the 
unoccupied  lands,  including  six  mill  sites  for  sugar  plan- 
tations, were  leased  to  Ladd  &  Co.  for  a  term  of  fifty 
years,  and  no  sale  or  transfer  of  lands  between  any  other 
parties  could  take  place  until  the  completion  of  this 
contract.  It  was  supposed  that,  the  lands  being  thus 
alienated,  the  sovereignty  of  the  islands  would  be  of  no 
value  in  the  estimation  of  those  whose  schemes  of  forci- 
ble annexation  were  fast  approaching  completeness ;  but 
the  idea,  so  prominent  before  the  lease  was  signed,  of 
(106) 


A    Temperance  Society.  107 

introducing  as  colonists  none  but  such  as  by  their  exam- 
ple and  influence  would  benefit  the  people  of  the  islands, 
gave  place,  soon  after  the  signature,  to  the  purpose  of 
effecting  a  sale  of  the  lease  wherever  the  best  market 
should  be  found.  Mr.  Brinsmade  took  his  departure  for  a 
market,  leaving  the  king,  the  premier,  and  Mr.  Richards 
extremely  anxious  for  the  consequences.  Mr.  Richards 
soon  after  followed  Mr.  Brinsmade. 

The  following  extracts  are  from  a  letter  of  Dr.  Judd: 

"  Lahaina,  April  27,  1842. 

" .  .  .  .  A  grand  Temperance  Society  was  formed  yesterday. 
The  King,  Haalilio,  John  Young,  Kekauluohi,  Kanaina,  Keliia- 
honui,  Paki,  and  Leleiohoku  pledged  themselves  to  total  absti- 
nence from  all  that  can  intoxicate. 

"The  first  three  had  a  hard  struggle  to  come  to  the  point, 
knowing  as  they  do  that  it  involves  a  great  amount  of  moral 
courage  in  their  intercourse  with  foreign  officials.  Therefore 
there  is  hope. 

"  The  church,  large  as  it  is,  was  crowded.  The  king  rising  spoke 
first — said  he  liked  the  movement,  had  resolved  to  drink  no 
more  himself,  and,  as  head  of  the  nation,  intended  to  be  leader 
in  this  great  reform. 

"  The  chiefs  are  anxious  that  I  should  remain  till  their  business 
affairs  are  settled.  The  present  plan  of  husbanding  the  resources 
of  the  kingdom  will  enable  them,  if  faithfully  carried  out,  to  ex- 
tinguish the  national  debt  in  a  few  years.  All  the  funds  are  to 
be  committed  to  a  board  of  officers,  consisting  of  John  Young, 
Haalilio,  and  myself.  Of  one  thing  you  may  be  certain,  I  shall 
not  consent  to  any  arrangement  which  does  not  promise  a 
greater  sphere  of  usefulness."  , 

Soon  after  the  departure  of  Mr.  Brinsmade  with  his 
lease  of  lands,  the  king  was  encouraged  to  send  commis- 
sioners to  Washington,  London,  and  Paris,  to  try,  if 
possible,  to  secure  a  better  understanding  with  these 
governments,  and  obtain  their  acknowledgment  of  his 


ro8  Honolulu. 


independence,  as  sovereign  in  his  own  kingdom,  though 
a  very  small  one. 

Rev.  William  Richards  and  Haalilio  were  appointed 
on  this  important  embassy.  They  were  fitted  out  in  a 
chartered  schooner  for  Mazatlan.  The  arrangements 
were  made  so  quietly,  that  people  supposed  they  were 
destined  to  the  island  of  Hawaii  only.  They  reached 
the  coast  in  safety  and  made  haste  to  New  York,  via 
Mexico  and  New  Orleans. 

No  sooner  were  the  facts  surmised,  than  the  British 
Consul  followed  after  the  embassy,  having  previously 
forwarded  letters  to  the  English  admiral  on  the  Val- 
paraiso station,  complaining  of  the  acts  of  the  Hawaiian 
authorities,  as  oppressive  and  injurious  to  British  sub- 
jects, and  requesting  a  ship-of-war  to  aid  him  in  obtain- 
ing justice.  He  left  a  deputy  consul,  vastly  more  subtle 
and  difficult  to  deal  with  than  himself.  This  deputy  the 
king  refused  to  receive  as  consul.  Dr.  Judd  requested 
Mr.  Richards  to  represent  to  our  Boston  patrons,  the  A. 
B.  C.  F.  M.,  the  reason  why  he  left  the  Mission,  and,  as 
the  king's  business  required  haste,  he  accepted  the  fol- 
lowing appointment  from  the  king  without  waiting  for 
their  approval : 

"Be  it  known  to  all  men,  that  we  appoint  G.  I*.  Judd,  an 
American  citizen,  resident  at  Honolulu,  Oahu,  Hawa-.ian  Islands, 
to  be  translator  and  recorder  for  the  Government,  agreeably  with 
the  law  passed  the  12th  of  May,  1842.  In  testimony  whereof,  we 
subscribe  our  names  at  Lahaina,  this  15th  day  of  May,  1842. 

"(Signed)  Kamehameha  III. 

"  [SEAL.]  KEKAULUOHI." 

And  the  following  Proclamation  was  made : — 

*  Be  it  known  to  all  whom  it  may  concern,  that  the  Council  ol 
the  kingdom  have  come  to  a  definite  agreement  to  set  apart  all 


Royal  Proclamation.  109 

the  Government  property,  from  one  end  of  the  Islands  to  the 
other,  for  such  business  of  the  Government  as  shall  be  agreed 
upon,  and  for  the  payment  of  debts,  in  order  that  the  debts  oi 
the  kingdom  may  be  canceled  at  once. 

"  They  therefore  nominate  officers  to  receive  and  pay  out  moneys 
according  to  specific  directions. 

"  We  therefore  hereby  constitute  you,  Dr.  G.  P.  Judd,  Timothy 
Haalilio,  and  John  Ii,  a  Treasury  Board  for  the  kingdom,  and 
charge  you  to  receive  the  poll  tax,  fioaha  money,  and  all  money 
paid  instead  of  the  swine  tax ;  also  all  money  paid  for  criminal 
offences,  the  harbor  dues  and  duties,  the  land  rents,  and  all  tax 
money,  and  every  kind  of  property  which  can  be  made  use  of  in 
paying  Government  debts. 

"  We  also  hereby  charge  all  governors  and  all  officers  to  give 
you  timely  notice  respecting  such  money  and  such  property,  and 
then  you  will  at  your  discretion  leave  it  for  awhile,  or  take  it  into 
your  hands  immediately. 

"  We  furthermore  charge  you  to  execute  this  business  promptly 
and  faithfully,  and  in  the  month  of  April,  1843,  render  in  writing 
a  full  account  of  all  your  doings. 

"  In  testimony  whereof  we  have  subscribed  our  names  at  La- 
hania,  Maui,  this  10th  of  May,  1842.  % 

"(Signed)  Kamehameha  III. 

Kekauluohi." 


The  following  letter  was  sent  to  Dr.  Judd : 

"Lahaina,  May  15,  1842. 

"  Salutations  to  you,  G.  P.  Judd.  You  have  been  appointed 
Translator  and  Recorder  for  the  Government,  and  for  your  sup- 
port and  that  of  your  family,  we  consent  that  you  be  paid  out  of 
the  Government  money  seven  hundred  and  sixty  dollars  per 
annum,  to  commence  from  this  day. 

"  Moreover,  we  instruct  you  to  aid  Governor  Kekuanaoa  in  your 
official  capacity,  which  relates  to  all  business  of  importance  be- 
tween foreigners. 

"  (Signed)  Kamehameha  III. 

Kekauluohi." 


no  Ho7iolulu. 


Later  in  the  year  Dr.  Judd's  duties  were  enlarged— 
vide  the  following : 

"Honolulu,  July  18,  1842. 

"  Salutations  to  you,  G.  P.  Judd.  We  hereby  appoint  you  to  be 
our  officer,  whose  duty  it  is  to  collect  correct  information  and 
report  to  Wm.  Richards  and  Sir  George  Simpson,  who  are  to  act 
according  to  your  words. 

"(Signed),  Kamehameha  III. 

Kekauluohi." 


On  leaving  the  missionary  service  Dr.  Judd  sent  the 
following  letter,  addressed — 

"  To  the  Members  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  Mission,  assembled  at 
Honolulu  t 

"  Dear  Brethren  :  As  my  missionary  career  is  about  to  close, 
for  the  present  at  least,  and  I  am  to  remove  from  my  pleasant 
home  among  you,  I  have  some  peculiar  feelings  which  I  take 
this  method  of  expressing  to  you  now  assembled  in  council.  I 
have  lived  and  labored  with  some  of  you  fifteen  years.  I  have 
given  to  your  service  my  best  days,  my  energy  and  affection,  and 
I  do  not  sever  my  qonnection  with  you  without  great  mental 
conflict.  And  did  I  not  believe  that  the  interests  of  the  mission 
and  the  permanency  of  Gospel  institutions  were  intimately  con- 
nected with  the  political  prosperity  of  the  nation,  I  should  not 
enter  the  Government  service.  I  do  not  consider  myself  dis- 
loyal to  you,  though  laboring  in  a  different  relation. 

"  I  have  doubtless  erred  in  many  instances,  and  do  not  feel  con- 
fident of  avoiding  mistakes  in  the  future,  but  I  trust  to  your 
magnanimity  and  Christian  love  to  overlook  and  forgive. 

"  I  have  crossed  the  rough  channels  and  climbed  the  steep 
'palis'  by  night  and  by  day  in  prompt  attendance  upon  your 
sick,  never  once  consulting  my  own  convenience  or  that  of  my 
family.  I  believe  the  brethren  best  acquainted  with  me  will  ad- 
mit that  I  have  not  unduly  sought  my  own.  I  have  endeavored 
to  maintain  the  strictest  economy  in  all  pecuniary  transactions, 
bearing  in  mind  the  motto  given  by  my  father  on  parting  with 
him  : '  Never  spend  the  hard-earned  mite  of  the  widow  carelessly* 

"  I  claim  no  share  of  mission  property,  not  even  a  horse  to  ride, 
except  in  your  service.    I  wish  still  to  serve  you  in  my  profes- 


Dr.  Judd  Leaves  the  Mission.  1 1  i 

sional  capacity,  as  far  as  consistent  with  my  new  duties ;  if  you 
require  it,  even  to  the  sacrifice  of  my  rest  and  sleeping  hours. 

"  I  will  employ  aid  and  superintend  portioning  out  the  medi- 
cines for  the  different  stations  and  families,  from  the  Medical 
Depository  here,  until  you  can  command  better  service. 

"  I  shall  depend  on  your  prayers  and  sympathy." 

The  members  of  the  Mission  voted  thanks  to  Dr.  Judd 
for  his  past  services,  and  allowed  him  the  rent  of  the 
house  he  occupied  until  he  could  make  other  arrange 
ments. 

Haalilio  left  this  Power  of  Attorney  to  Dr.  Judd  on 
his  departure  from  the  Islands : 

"  Honolulu,  Oahu,  July  8,  1842. 
"  In  case  I  go  to  a  foreign  land  at  any  future  time,  I  hereby  ap- 
point G.  P.  Judd  to  be  my  agent  for  the  transaction  of  all  my 
business.  And  I  charge  him  to  take  all  my  property,  all  my 
receipts,  and  all  my  leases  of  lands,  to  collect  the  same  for  me. 
And  to  pay  all  my  debts,  and  the  remainder  he  is  to  keep  for 
me,  if  I  return,  or  my  heir,  if  I  do  not  return.  And  I  will  ap- 
prove all  the  acts  of  my  agent,  G.  P.  Judd,  which  he  may  per- 
form agreeably  with  this  writing.  T.  Haalilio." 

Mr.  Brinsmade  did  not  find  the  desired  capitalists  in 
the  United  States,  so  he  proceeded  to  Belgium,  where 
he  sold  his  lease  of  lands,  mill  sites,  etc.,  to  a  Belgium 
joint  stock  company,  took  his  pay  in  shares  of  said  stock, 
and  acting  in  concert  with  Mr.  Richards,  whom  he  met 
in  Europe,  made  the  king  a  large  stockholder,  with  the 
liabilities  of  the  company,  subject  to  ratification  at  the 
Islands. 


XXVIII. 

G.  P.  Judd  to  the  Envoy  — Sir  George  Simpson* i 
Views— About  Lands— Extract  from  another  Let- 
ter—  The  Lands  Recorded — A  Laivyer  Wanted — 
Letters  —  Mr.  Richards  —  Temperance  —  Tobacco 
Reform.  —  The  Great  Commandment  —  The  Gov- 
ernment Commenced— Queen  Pomare — A  French 
Ship-of-War—A  Narrow  Escape— Letter  to  Mrs. 
L.  on  the  training  of  Children. 

EXTRACTS  of  letters  from  G.  P.  Judd  to  the  Rev. 
William  Richards,  H.  H.  Majesty's  Envoy  Ex- 
traordinary : 

"  Honolulu,  August  8,  1842. 

"  I  send  you  a  copy  of  a  letter  just  received  from  Sir  George 
Simpson.  I  need  not  say  you  will  read  his  letter  with  attention. 
For  myself,  I  am  forcibly  impressed  with  some  of  his  opinions. 
I  think  some  of  them,  if  carried  out,  would  involve  the  nation 
in  ruin.  The  encouragement  recommended  to  be  given  to  cap- 
italists, however  much  it  might  benefit  the  country,  would,  I 
feel,  at  no  distant  period  be  the  subversion  of  the  present  dy- 
nasty, unless  their  affairs  could  be  directed  by  experienced  for- 
eigners. 

"  I  very  much  fear  the  gentleman  has  been  misled  by  the  repre- 
sentation of  others  to  conclude  that  the  facilities  which  the 
Islands  afford  for  such  speculations  are  greater  than  they  really 
are.  You,  sir,  are  aware,  that  with  two  or  three  exceptions,  no 
large  tract  of  land  is  unoccupied,  and  even  those  are  stocked 
with  cattle.  Nor  should  the  Government  violate  the  rights  of 
the  people  to  please  foreigners.  Although  the  land  might  be 
more  productive  under  new  modes  of  agriculture,  the  people 
may  not  choose  to  adopt  them,  or  leave  the  possession  of  them 
to  strangers.  And  then  what  will  be  done  ?  Do  not,  I  beg  of 
you,  promise  what  ought  not  to  be  fulfilled,  and  what  will  bring 
disappointment  or  a  claim  for  indemnity  from  the  king  or  Gov- 
ernment." 

(112) 


A    Temperance  Nation,  113 


II. 

"May  5,  1843. 

".  .  .  .  I  returned  yesterday  from  Maui,  after  a  month's  absence, 
attending  a  council  of  the  king  and  chiefs.  At  present  I  can 
only  state  that  a  record  was  made  of  all  the  lands  owned  by  in- 
dividuals throughout  the  kingdom,  and  a  law  passed  that  all 
leasing  of  land  shall  be  done  by  proper  officers  of  Government. 

".  .  .  .  It  took  ten  weeks  to  make  a  complete  record  of  all  the 
lands  and  the  names  of  individuals  attached  to  them.  It  ap- 
pears that  very  little  land  belongs  to  the  king  personally ;  the 
chiefs,  particularly  Victoria,  being  by  far  the  greatest  owners. 

"  I  fear  you  will  not  be  here  in  season  with  your  English  lawyer 
to  assist  in  the  adjustment  of  our  affairs.  Pray  come  as  soon  as 
you  can.  Have  you  guarded  the  position  of  the  king  and  Gov- 
ernment in  the  Belgian  Company,  so  that  we  shall  not  be  re- 
sponsible for  the  debts  of  the  company  in  case  of  failure  ?  I 
have  much  anxiety  on  that  score.  G.  P.  Judd." 

Mr.  Richards  has  accomplished  a  great  deal  since  he 
entered  the  Government  service.  The  taxes  are  better 
regulated,  and  duties  are  defined  somewhat  between  the 
rulers  and  ruled.  We  hope  much  from  his  foreign  em- 
bassy, that,  with  the  co-operation  of  Mr.  Brinsmade, 
some  of  the  pending  disputes  with  the  English  will  be 
settled,  and  the  independence  of  the  Hawaiian  kingdom 
be  acknowledged.  I  am  sure,  if  any  people  on  earth 
deserve  favor,  it  is  the  Hawaiian. 

Temperance  laws  are  now  triumphant,  and  the  nation 
is  a  temperance  nation,  from  the  king  on  the  throne  down 
to  the  little  children.  All  are  collected  into  a  "  cold-water 
army."  We  have  had  a  grand  festival.  Fourteen  hun- 
dred children  marched'  in  procession  with  music  and 
banners,  dined  together,  made  speeches,  and  hurrahed 
in  the  most  approved  style. 

One  i*eeds  to  have  lived  among  such  a  people,  when 
there  was  no  restraint  upon  the  natural  love  for  stimu 


114  Honolulu. 


lants,  and  to  have  been  a  spectator  of  the  excesses  when 
a  whole  village  was  drunk.  What  pencil  can  portray  the 
loathsome  picture  ? 

The  king  adheres  to  his  pledge  nobly,  and  appears  to 
be  fully  aware  that  his  temporal  salvation  depends  upon 
it.  We  indulge  in  renewed  hope  that  his  soul  will  be 
saved.  He  appears  sober  and  thoughtful,  and  is  very 
attentive  to  religious  services. 

The  tobacco  reform  creates  great  excitement.  The 
natives  of  all  classes  are  inveterate  smokers.  The  pipe- 
lighter  (a  little  boy)  is  an  indispensable  member  of  every 
aristocratic  or  respectable  family,  and  is  required  to  serve 
at  all  hours,  day  and  night.  The  smoke  is  sometimes 
inhaled  into  the  lungs  and  produces  injurious  effects. 

Moral  suasion  and  every  effort  to  enlighten  public 
opinion  is  loudly  called  for,  but  it  seems  rather  overdoing 
the  matter  to  make  the  disuse  of  the  drug  a  test  of  dis- 
cipleship.  I  asked  a  native  inquirer  the  other  day,  which 
he  thought  the  great  commandment.  He  replied,  Mai 
puhi paka.  (Do  not  smoke  tobacco).  I  asked  him  if  he 
found  it  in  the  Bible.  He  supposed  it  was  there,  he 
said.  I  told  him  that  to  love  God  with  all  his  heart  and 
mind  and  soul,  was  the  first  and  great  commandment. 
It  is  always  easier  to  do  penance  than  to  repent  and  be- 
lieve on  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ. 

We  remain  for  a  year  in  our  old  home,  under  the  shade 
of  trees  our  hands  planted.  How  I  shall  grieve  to  leave 
a  neighborhood  of  such  pleasant  associations,  but  it  does 
not  answer  for  pilgrims  to  make  plans  "for  permanence 
and  say,  "  I  shall  die  in  my  nest."  Since  the  death  of 
our  first-born  I  feel  this  more  than  ever. 

Dr.  Judd  has  opened  an  orifice  in  town  for  public  busi- 
ness, and  attends  at  regular  hours  every  day.  A  little  space 
is  cleared  in  the  Augean  stables.     Some  of  the  most  im- 


Seizure  of  Tahiti,  115 

perious  creditors  are  paid  off,  and  several  long  standing 
disputes  settled  by  the  courts  of  the  country.  Dr.  Judd 
is  obliged  to  do  all  the  writing  in  foreign  transactions,  as 
no  natives  can  read  and  write  English  well  enough.  He 
hopes  soon  to  secure  the  services  of  a  thorough  book- 
keeper for  both  languages.  Foreigners  look  upon  Gov- 
ernment service  as  degrading,  and  will  serve  in  a  mer- 
chant's counting-room  for  less  pay.  We  trust  this  state 
of  things  will  not  last  always. 

Righteousness  exalteth  a  nation.  A  great  effort  is 
being  made  to  withdraw  the  king  from  his  gambling 
haunts  and  low  company,  and  throw  around  his  person  a 
little  dignity,  as  becomes  the  chief  magistrate  and  sov- 
ereign.    Long  habit  is  powerful. 

We  seldom  hear  from  the  envoys.  Mails  are  like 
angels'  visits,  few  and  far  between.  We  watch  the  ocean 
in  our  anxiety  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  a  sail,  and 
listen  with  suppressed  breath  for  every  item  of  news. 

Mr.  Brinsmade  has  started  out  here  quite  a  number  of 
people,  who  are  anxiously  waiting  the  success  of  his 
scheme  and  his  return.  I  wish  we  could  be  persuaded 
it  was  the  best  thing  for  the  nation,  but  our  opinions  are 
all  to  the  contrary.  A  few  may  be  aggrandized  at  the 
expense  and  ruin  of  the  many. 

We  have  lately  heard  of  the  seizure  of  Tahiti  by  the 
French,  which  increases  our  anxiety  to  get  our  affairs  on 
a  surer  basis.  The  Tahitians  had  the  Gospel  thirty  years 
before  the  Hawaiians,  but  have  fallen  a  prey  to  their 
enemies.  Poor  Queen  Pomare  is  dispossessed  of  power 
and  property.  The  people  are  strongly  attached  to  the 
Protestant  faith,  and  numbers  refuse  submission  to 
Roman  Catholic  masters,  and  have  fled  to  the  mountains. 
They  will  doubtless  be  hunted  down  and  compelled  to 
surrender. 


1 1 6  Honolulu. 

A  French  ship-of-war  touched  here  not  long  since,  and 
made  very  serious  charges  against  the  Government,  as 
not  having  kept  the  La  Place  treaty.  When  the  com- 
mander learned  that  the  king  had  sent  commissioners  to 
France  to  adjust  these  difficulties,  he  very  quietly  with- 
drew his  charges  and  went  to  sea.  A  French  resident,  in 
the  secret,  tells  us  it  was  the  intention  to  take  possession 
of  the  islands  and  raise  the  French  flag  here,  as  well  as 
at  Tahiti.  , 

We  regard  it  as  a  narrow  escape.  The  Lord  does 
watch  over  His  people,  and  will  hear  the  cause  of  the 
poor  and  needy,  who  cry  day  and  night  unto  Him.  Our 
hope  is  in  the  sympathy  and  prayers  of  the  people  of 
God,  in  behalf  of  this  struggling  infant  nation.  Why 
can  they  not  be  let  alone  for  a  little  while  ? 

The  following  letter  I  preserve,  as  describing  the  diffi- 
culties of  the  missionary  mother's  duty  to  her  children : 

"  Honolulu. 

"  My  Dear  Mrs.  L. : — The  Waialua  messenger  has  just  brought 
me  your  letter,  and  my  sympathies  are  drawn  toward  you  very 
tenderly. 

'Woman's  lot  is  on  thee.' 

"  You  are  young  and  resolute,  it  is  true,  but  you  will  soon  find 
your  strength  is  not  the  strength  of  iron.  The  constant  care  of 
your  little  ones,  carrying  about  one  in  your  arms  as  you  do,  when 
at  your  work,  will  overtax  your  powers,  and  you  will  sink  under 
it.  I  know  what  it  is  by  experience  to  watch  the  ills  of  infancy, 
to  weep  and  pray  over  the  first  development  of  a  depraved  nat- 
ure, the  anxiety  in  guarding  the  little  flock  from  surrounding 
evil,  which  often  drinks  up  the  spirits.  Days  of  care  and  nights 
of  watching — I  know  them  all.  There  are  no  changes  in  our 
climate — no  bracing  winters  to  renew  prostrated  energy  and 
renovate  the  constitution.  When  once  down,  there  you  must 
lie.  There  are  no  kind  mothers,  or  sisters,  or  cousins  to  come 
over  and  spend  a  few  weeks,  to  take  charge  of  the  little  ones. 


Training  of  Children.  117 

No,  there  is  no  relief  for  mothers,  sick  or  well,  even  for  a  day  or 
an  hour. 

"  Are  you  an  exception  ?  Can  you  calculate  upon  strength  tc 
nurse,  and  train,  and  educate  your  children  unaided  ?  Now,  my 
dear  friend,  let  us  consider  the  matter,  and  try  to  act  wisely. 
Your  husband  helps  you  now.  Oh,  yes  !  It  is  a  new  thing,  but 
young  fathers  are  very  apt  to  use  up  their  real  enthusiasm  with 
the  oldest  child.  And  by  the  time  the  sons  are  four  or  five  years 
old,  and  need  a  little  guidance  and  instruction,  •  Oh,  there  is  so 
much  business  on  hand,'  and  it  is  '  Really,  my  dear,  you  can  do 
it  a  great  deal  better  than  I  can.' 

"  Besides,  I  know  some  mothers,  who  are  not  willing  to  take 
their  husband's  time  to  perform  nursery  duties,  which  can  be 
safely  trusted  to  a  native  nurse  under  the  mother's  superintend- 
ence. Every  hour  which  I  might  reasonably  claim  of  my  hus- 
band's aid  in  domestic  care,  and  from  which  I  excuse  him,  I  re- 
gard as  so  much  public  work  done  by  myself,  and  feel  great 
pleasure  in  it." 

"  You  object  to  native  nurses.  The  native  character  is  not  all 
we  wish  in  purity  and  judgment ;  yet  among  the  mercies  scat- 
tered through  fourteen  years,  none  elicits  more  gratitude  than 
my  faithful  native  helpers.  Pali  came  to  me  just  after  my  ar- 
rival. She  was  born  a  heathen,  and  narrowly  escaped  death  at 
her  mother's  hands.  She  was  young,  wild,  and  untaught ;  now 
she  can  wash  and  iron  infants'  clothes  without  injury  to  the 
most  delicate  texture.  She  can  feed,  tend,  bathe,  and  dress  a 
very  young  child  with  more  skill  than  many  white  mothers  I 
could  name.  When  the  little  ones  are  ill  she  sits  by  the  cradle, 
watches,  waits,  and  mingles  her  tears  with  mine,  and  prays  to  her 
God  and  my  God  for  restoring  mercy.  She  sits  by  me  tending 
the  baby  now  while  I  write,  and  I  think  our  older  children  have 
learned  much  less  of  evil  from  her  than  is  commonly  acquired 
from  servants  in  the  most  favored  families  in  our  own  beloved 
native  land.  Now  take  my  advice,  divest  yourself  of  prejudices, 
seek  a  woman,  the  best  you  can  procure.  Tell  her  your  wishes, 
what  you  expect  her  to  do.  Teach  her  patiently,  'giving  line 
upon  line,  precept  upon  precept :  here  a  little,  there  a  little  ; '  you 
will  succeed.    Yours  in  like  bonds,  I,.  F.  J." 


XXIX. 

Cession  of  the  Islands  to  Great  Britain— Arrival  of 
the  "Carysfort" — Revenge  of  the  Deputy-Consul— 
Arrival  of  the  King— Deputy  acknowledged — More 
Demands— Dark  Days— Many  Men  of  many  Minds 
—  The  King  gives  up— Flag  changed— Islands  gov- 
erned by  a  Commission— King  returns  to  Lahaina — 
G.  P.  Judd  to  Envoys — Arrival  of  the  "Constella- 
tion'"— Admiral  Thomas  arrives — He  restores  the 
Flag — The  Ceremonies — United  States  Commis- 
sioner and  English  Consul-General. 

1843. 

IN  February,  1843,  an  English  man-of-war,  the  Carys- 
fort,  under  command  of  Lord  George  Paulet,  came 
into  port.  It  had  been  ordered  here  by  the  admiral 
of  the  Pacific  Squadron,  from  the  misrepresentations  of 
the  English  Consul,  to  redress  alleged  injuries  done  to  En- 
glishmen. It  was  now  the  time  for  the  surly  mastiff  left 
as  deputy  to  avenge  himself  upon  the  king  and  defense- 
less Government  who  had  refused  to  acknowledge  him. 
All  intercourse  with  the  resident  authorities  was  refused, 
and  a  demand  to  see  the  king  immediately  presented. 
He  was  accordingly  sent  for  from  Lahaina.  On  his  ar- 
rival, before  he  had  time  to  change  his  sea  apparel,  an 
imperative  demand  was  sent  him  to  acknowledge  the 
deputy-consul  forthwith  or  prepare  for  the  alternative — 
a  broadside  upon  the  town  from  the  Carysfort.  Eight 
hours  of  grace  were  granted  for  deliberation.  The  de- 
mand was  acceded  to,  and  Mr.  Alexander  Simpson  was 
acknowledged  as  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  representative 
in  the  Hawaiian  kingdom.  Then  came  the  tug  of  war 
The  august  gentleman  said,  as  did  one  of  olden  time, 
(11S) 


Dark  Days,  119 


Whereas  my  predecessor  "  chastised  you  with  whips,  I 
will  chastise  you  with  scorpions." 

Daily  interviews  with  the  king  were  demanded,  and 
granted,  only  to  pour  upon  him  insult  upon  insult.  De- 
cisions in  the  courts  were  required  to  be  reversed  ;  claims 
to  large  tracts  of  valuable  land  to  be  confirmed.;  and  a 
great  amount  of  hypothetical  damages  demanded.  The 
king  was  neither  judge  nor  constable,  and  was  utterly  ig- 
norant of  the  facts  in  many  of  the  cases  brought  before 
him ;  his  knowledge  of  English  was  impeffect,  and  the 
properly-appointed  translator  and  interpreter  was  treated 
as  obnoxious.  The  demands  which  the  defenseless  king 
was  obliged  to  acknowledge,  ran  up  in  a  few  days  to 
about  eighty  thousand  dollars,  quite  enough  to  cripple 
the  nation.  The  ship-of-war  was  brought  around,  so 
that  the  mouths  of  her  guns  yawned  continually  upon 
the  town. 

Ah,  those  were  dark  days !  The  intention  was  suffi- 
ciently clear  to  rob  the  treasury,  by  extorting  large  sums 
of  money,  and  compel  the  king  to  yield  his  sovereignty, 
to  prevent  it  (they  said  among  themselves)  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  French.  The  sympathies  of  the 
whole  foreign  community  were  with  the  king ;  but  un- 
fortunately each  had  a  separate  plan  to  propose.  Some 
said  :  "  Don't  yield  a  single  iota  ;  let  them  fire."  Others 
asked,  "  In  that  case,  who  will  pay  for  the  American 
property  thus  destroyed  ?  "  One  proposed  a  cession  of 
the  Islands  to  the  United  States  and  France  pro  tern. 
Another  inquired,  "  Will  the  United  States  Government 
accept  and  protect,  and  the  French  ever  relinquish  their 
hold,  if  once  in  possession?" 

The  interest  of  some  of  us  was  identified  with  that  of 
the  nation  ;  with  it  we  must  live  or  die.  The  king  and 
chiefs  broke  down ;   and    after  a  night  of    prayer  and 


1 20  Honolulu. 


deliberation,  the  king  said  :  "  I  will  not  die  by  piecemeal , 
they  may  cut  off  my  head  at  once.  I  will  yield  the 
breath  of  my  kingdom,  and  trust  to  my  commissioners 
in  London  and  to  the  magnanimity  of  the  British  Gov- 
ernment to  redress  the  wrong  and  restore  my  rights." 

Preliminaries  were  arranged  with  the  belligerent  party 
for  a  cession  of  the  Islands,  under  protest ;  and  on  Sat- 
urday afternoon  at  three  o'clock,  on  February  25,  1843, 
the  Hawaiian  flag  we  loved  so  well,  was  lowered  in  the 
Fort,  and  an  English  one  run  up  in  its  place  and  sa- 
luted by  the  batteries  of  the  Fort  and  the  guns  of  the 
Carysfort.  English  soldiers  marched  into  the  Fort  and 
the  band  played  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  and  "  Isle  of 
Beauty,  fare  thee  well."  The  latter  was  played  by  the 
request  of  some  lady  friends  of  Lord  George,  and  re- 
garded by  us  as  a  refined  cruelty,  which  could  only  ema 
nate  from  a  woman. 

For  five  long  months  we  ground  in  the  prison-house, 
like  poor  blind  Samson.  After  the  cession  my  husband 
came  home  and  threw  himself  down,  utterly  exhausted 
in  body  and  mind,  after  the  sleepless  week  of  fasting  and 
torture.  I  sat  by  him  two  hours,  ransacking  heart  and 
brain  for  arguments  of  consolation.  There  was  no  stain 
on  his  character;  he  had  committed  no  crime.  No 
blood  had  been  shed.  He  had  done  his  best,  and  what 
more  could  be  required  ?  I  advised  him  to  lie  down  in 
the  arms  of  a  kind  Heavenly  Father,  and  in  good  time 
he  would  come  forth  with  new  strength  for  the  conflict ; 
and  it  was  so. 

A  commission  was  formed  for  the  government  of  the 
Islands,  consisting  of  Lord  George  Paulet,  one  of  his 
officers,  Lieutenant  Frere,  and  G.  P.  Judd,  the  kings 
deputy.  One  of  the  Government  schooners  was  imme- 
diately dispatched  to  bear  the  news  to  the  admiral  at 


Cession  of  the  Islands.  121 

Valparaiso.  Dr.  Judd  was  retained  in  the  financial  de- 
partment and  left  in  possession  of  the  Government  pa- 
pers. The  king  and  premier  returned  to  Maui.  Every 
avenue  of  communication  with  the  king  or  foreign  coun- 
tries was  most  jealously  watched  and  guarded  by  his 
lordship,  in  order  to  prevent  any  statement  of  affairs 
derogatory  to  his  own  from  being  sent  abroad. 

Dispatches,  prepared  in  the  silence  of  midnight  in  the 
royal  tomb,  with  Kaahumanu's  coffin  for  a  table,  were 
sent  off  in  canoes  from  distant  points  of  the  island ;  and 
once,  when  the  king's  signature  was  required,  he  came 
down  in  a  schooner  and  landed  incog,  at  Waikiki,  a 
neighboring  village,  at  twilight,  read  and  signed  the  pre- 
pared documents,  and  was  on  his  way  back  across  the 
channel,  while  his  lordship  was  dining  and  having  a 
pleasant  time  with  his  friends.* 

This  lasted  sonfe  three  months,  when  Dr.  Judd,  find- 
ing the  conditions  of  the  cessions  were  disregarded  by 
the  other  members  of  the  commission,  protested  and 
withdrew  the  king  from  all  further  participation  in  their 
councils* 

Extracts  from  letters  to  the  king's  commissioners, 
Messrs.  Richards  and  Haalilio : 

" .  .  .  .  His  lordship  has  enlisted  soldiers  (natives),  which  he 
calls  the  '  Queen's  Regiment,'  and  put  them  upon  regular  pay ; 
also  a  police  corps,  at  an  expense  of  $713  per  month,  and  on  his 
return  from  Maui  last  week  brought  an  order  to  me  (sealed,  of 
course),  from  the  king  and  premier,  to  pay  no  more  money  on 
that  account.  This  I  communicated  to  the  commissioners, 
when  the  Carysfort  hoisted  sail  again  for  Maui.     Another  letter 


*  On  this  occasion  Mr.  James  F.  B.  Marshall  was  commissioned  to 
join  Messrs.  Haalilio  and  Richards,  the  king's  commissioners  in  Lon 
don,  and  was  sent  off  incognito  (in  the  same  vessel  that  carried  the 
British  consul)  with  the  dispatches  above  referred  to. 
6 


122  Honolulu. 


from  the  king,  in  which  he  positively  prohibits  me  from  paying 
any  more  money  to  the  soldiers.  I  received  also  from  the  com- 
missioners a  demand  to  pay  instantly,  or  they  will  put  another 
person  into  the  treasury  office.  This  letter  was  brought  me  by 
Lieutenant  Frere,  in  full  uniform,  with  sword  drawn.  Of  course 
I  was  obliged  to  comply." 

The  archives  were  carefully  removed  from  the  office 
and  deposited  in  the  royal  tomb.  Another  quarterly 
pay-day  was  just  at  hand.  On  the  refusal  of  money  it 
was  expected  that  his  lordship  would  take  possession  of 
the  treasury  and  demand  the  papers. 

Commodore  Kearny,  in  the  United  States  ship-of-war 
Constellation,  arrived  with  a  rumor  that  the  United  States 
Government  had  recognized  the  independence  of  the 
Hawaiian  Government,  and  had  appointed  a  commissioner 
to  treat  with  our  sovereign,  as  in  other  kingdoms. 

This  news  inspired  some  courage. 

We  had  just  arisen  from  family  devotions  one  morn- 
ing, where  we  had  been  pleading  for  the  prostrate  nation, 
in  the  hands  of  those  who  were  crushing  out  its  vitality, 
and  trampling  in  the  dust  its  best  interests,  when  we 
were  startled  by  the  native  cry  of  "  sail  ho  ! "  An  im- 
mense man-of-war  hove  in  sight,  floating  the  flag  of  an 
English  rear-admiral  of  the  white.  What  was  his  errand  ? 
Had  he  brought  relief,  or  had  he  come  to  declare  our 
bondage  perpetual  ?  We  held  our  very  breath  to  await 
the  answer. 

Admiral  Thomas  landed  and  requested  an  immediate 
interview  with  the  native  authorities.  The  first  glimpse 
of  his  mild,  benevolent  face  inspired  confidence.  Nego- 
tiations were  not  difficult.  The  admiral,  who  had  ordered 
the  Carysfort  here,  was  evidently  pained  at  the  course 
pursued,  and  anxious  to  restore  the  king.  Lord  George 
had  destroyed  every  Hawaiian  flag  he  could  find,  flatter 


Restoration  of  the  Islands,  123 

ing  himself  they  would  never  again  be  called  for.  The 
admiral  had  a  new  one  made  on  board  the  Dublin  ex- 
pressly for  the  restoration  ceremony. 

It  was  on  Saturday,  July  31,  a  little  more  than  five 
months  after  the  cession  or  seizure,  that  the  marines  from 
the  Dublin,  Carysfort,  and  other  English  ships,  under 
their  respective  officers,  were  ordered  to  be  on  the  parade 
ground  on  the  plain,  in  full  uniform,  at  eight  o'clock  A.M., 
under  Lieutenant  Frere.  A  pavilion  was  erected  for 
the  ladies.  Foreign  residents  of  all  classes,  missionaries, 
and  thousands  of  natives  assembled  at  an  early  hour. 
Admiral  Thomas  preceded  the  king  in  the  carriage  of 
the  latter.  When  the  king,  on  horseback,  arrived  upon 
the  ground,  the  admiral  gave  him  a  salute  of  twenty-one 
guns  from  the  field  artillery  of  the  squadron.  Lord 
George  was  not  present. 

At  a  signal  given,  the  English  flag-officer  advanced 
toward  the  king,  surrounded  by  his  guards,  bowed  his 
colors  most  gracefully,  while  the  splendid  Hawaiian 
standard  was  unfurled,  and,  as  the  breeze  caught  its  am- 
ple folds,  displaying  the  dove  and  olive  branch  in  the 
center,  the  guns  from  the  Carysfort  fired  first,  then  the 
Dublin,  and  the  other  English  ships,  followed  by  two 
American  ships-of-war.  Each  poured  forth  a  salute  of 
twenty-one  guns,  which  was  responded  to  by  the  fort  and 
battery  of  old  Punch-bowl.  The  roar  and  reverberations 
were  loud  and  long,  and  one  would  think  the  royal  slum- 
berers  in  the  adjacent  tomb  might  be  startled  in  their 
long  sleep.  As  the  cannons  ceased,  thousands  of  human 
voices  mingled  in  one  patriotic  cheer.  Men  and  boys, 
black,  white,  and  red,  shouted  themselves  hoarse,  as  the 
king  returned  from  the  plain.  The  king  and  chiefs  pro- 
ceeded to  the  stone  church,  where,  in  the  midst  of  the 
great  congregation,  they  gave  thanks  to  their  God  for 
deliverance  from  a  foreign  yoke. 


1 24  Honolulu. 


The  admiral  took  up  his  abode  on  shore,  after  sending 
the  Carysfort  and  Dublin  to  sea,  and  awaited  the  ap- 
proval of  the  Home  Government.  He  took  a  lively  in- 
terest in  establishing  order  in  legitimate  hands,  and 
assisted  in  advancing  the  best  interests  of  the  people,  as 
well  as  establishing  court  rules  and  etiquette. 

In  the  meantime  an  American  commissioner  arrived 
and  an  English  consul-general,  so  that,  with  the  French, 
and  four  other  foreign  representatives,  there  was  quite  a 
diplomatic  corps  in  the  metropolis  of  Honolulu. 


XXX. 


My  First  Diplomatic  Dinner — Our  New  Home — A 
Daughter  Born  under  the  English  Flag— Why  tht 
Hawaiian  Flag  was  Restored — My  Husband  III— 
yohn  Ricord — Secretary  of  Foreign  Affairs — Tht 
Soldiers  Pardoned— Restoration  Party— The  Census 
Improvements — Mr.  Damon — The  New  Palace-^ 
Restoration  Anthem. 


1843. 

ADMIRAL  THOMAS  had  taken  the  lead  in  a  round 
of  diplomatic  dinner  parties,  and  it  belonged 
to  us  to  follow.  There  was  a  difficulty ;  we  were 
pledged  to  the  sovereign  and  subjects  on  the  temperance 
question.  Commissioner  Brown,  an  earnest  advocate  of 
the  temperance  reform,  persuaded  us  that  the  time  had 
come  when  public  opinion  would  sustain  us  in  giving  an 
entertainment  without  wine,  and  moreover  it  was  a  duty 
to  do  so.  Moral  courage  was  a  noble  virtue,  and  he  was 
sure  the  admiral  would  approve,  although  of  course  he 
had  never  dined  without  wine  in  his  life,  and  probably 
would  be  uncomfortable  without  it. 

He  was  therefore  consulted,  and  expressed  his  approval. 
The  invitations  were  explicit.  It  was  to  a  cold-water 
entertainment  to  which  the  guests  were  invited,  and  they 
were  quite  at  liberty  to  accept  or  decline  accordingly. 

The  corps  at  this  time  included  the  king  and  high 
chiefs  of  the  land,  the  English  admiral,  the  American 
commissioner,  the  consuls  of  Great  Britain,  France, 
United  States,  Peru,  and  Bremen — fourteen  in  all. 

Duty  once  decided,  no  pains  or  expense  was  to  be  spared 

(125) 


126  Honolulu. 


in  making  the  dinner  the  best  the  realm  afforded.  The 
services  of  Morfsieur  Gueval,  a  prodigy  in  the  art  culinary \ 
were  secured.  The  table  linen  was  fine  and  spotless. 
The  silver  was  borrowed  from  the  ample  stores  of  the 
governor.  Handsome  porcelain,  glass-ware,  and  beauti- 
ful vases  of  flowers  adorned  the  table.  The  guests 
arrived  and  were  duly  seated,  according  to  the  approved 
code  of  etiquette,  the  oldest  in  office  taking  the  prece- 
dence. This  was  a  matter  of  very  delicate  adjustment  in 
our  little  court,  for  any  fault  or  mistake  was  sure  to  give 
serious  offense. 

The  soup  was  good — the  fish,  the  finest  and  fattest 
from  the  royal  ponds.  The  rice  and  curry  were  good 
enough  for  the  Great  Mogul.  Roast  beef,  mutton, 
boned-turkey,  ham,  ducks,  chickens,  salads  (hot  and  cold), 
lobster,  game,  omelets,  patties,  puddings,  pies,  almond 
pastry,  fruit,  nuts  and  raisins,  crackers  and  cheese  fol- 
lowed each  other  in  due  order,  all  faultless.  But  the 
waiters  were  slow.  It  seemed  a  life-time  between  the 
courses.  I  tasked  my  brain  for  sprightly  sayings.  The 
admiral  was  cheerful,  but  it  was  plain  he  missed  his  wine. 
His  secretary  had  cramps  in  his  stomach ;  cold  water 
always  produced  that  effect  upon  him,  and  he  could  eat 
nothing  after  his  soup.  I  had  half  a  mind  to  go  to  the 
medicine  chest  and  get  a  glass  of  wine  for  him,  but  there 
sat  our  sovereign  and  chiefs,  and  I  would  not  set  wine 
before  them  for  a  kingdom. 

Three  hours  dragged  their  slow  length  along,  and  the 
cloth  was  removed  for  tea  and  coffee,  but  the  admiral 
excused  himself,  as  his  hour  for  an  evening  walk  had  ar- 
rived. Others  followed,  in  haste  for  antidotes  against 
the  cold  water  that  was  chilling  them.  A  few  remained 
and  made  themselves  sufficiently  merry  and  agreeable 
with  drinks  that  "cheer,  but  not  inebriate." 


Diner  Sans  Vin,  127 

When  all  the  guests  had  retired,  I  sat  down  to  reflect, 
half  mortified,  half  vexed.  Can  it  be  possible,  I  thought, 
that  high-bred  gentlemen,  of  intellect  and  education,  are 
so  dependent  upon  artificial  stimulants,  that  they  can  not 
relish  a  good  dinner  without  them  ?  Are  the  wit  and  the 
fine  sayings  at  the  social  board  of  great  men  nothing  but 
the  sparkling  effervescence  of  champagne,  and  are  fine 
spirits  the  spirits  of  the  distillery  only? 

We  were  happy  to  receive  afterward  the  full  approval 
of  the  admiral,  who  assured  us  that  such  a  course  was 
the  only  proper  one,  and  would  secure  the  happiest  re- 
sults, although  he  had  at  first  regarded  the  principle  of 
total  abstinence  as  an  ultra  measure. 

Honolulu,  October,  1843. 

The  die  is  cast — we  have  left  our  pleasant  home  in  the 
Mission  premises  and  moved  into  a  furnished  stone  house 
of  the  premier,  adjoining  the  palace.  The  old  lady  has 
not  occupied  it  since  the  death  of  her  sister,  Kinau,  who 
was  laid  in  state  in  this  drawing-room  for  six  weeks. 
Prince  David,  the  eldest  of  Kinau's  sons,  died  here  also. 
The  pupils  in  the  royal  school  near  us  assure  our  children 
that  the  house  is  haunted,  and  wonder  how  we  can  bring 
our  minds  to  live  in  it,  affirming  we  shall  surely  see 
ghosts. 

The  high  ceiling,  large  windows,  and  papered  walls 
afford  such  a  contrast  to  our  little  cottage,  that  I  feel  like 
a  traveler  at  a  hotel,  or  on  board  a  finely-furnished 
steamer — a  mere  lodger  for  the  night.  The  situation 
is  cooler  than  at  the  Mission,  and  commands  the  sweet 
breeze  from  the  valley.  The  upper  room  is  a  fine 
place  for  school,  where  I  spend  an  hour  and  a  half  each 
morning  with  the  children.  They  are  allowed  to  attend 
the  royal  school  in  the  afternoon,  which  is  quite  agree- 


128  Honolulu. 


able  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke,  as  well  as  to  their  royal  pu- 
pils. It  is  so  near  that  I  can  over-look  the  play-ground 
from  the  window  where  I  am  writing. 

We  have  named  our  youngest,  born  March  16,  1843 
under  the  English  flag,  after  my  dear  mother,  to  which 
name  we  have  added  Augusta,  for  our  much  esteemed 
Mrs.  H ,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  much  kind- 
ness. 

As  to  the  termination  of  the  English  contest,  Admiral 
Thomas  supposed  that  some  great  wrong  had  been  done 
to  English  subjects  here,  and  sent  Lord  George  Paulet 
to  inquire,  with  express  orders  to  put  himself  at  the  com- 
mand of  the  English  consul.  But  when  tidings  reached 
him  of  the  seizure  of  the  islands,  Admiral  Thomas  lost 
no  time  in  hastening  to  the  rescue,  as*I  have  said. 

The  long-expected  Belgians  do  not  come  to  claim 
lands,  build  mills,  and  make  us  all  rich.  The  English 
accuse  the  Government  of  partiality  in  granting  such  an 
immense  monopoly  to  Americans,  and  they  have  reason 
on  their  side. 

The  barque  Columbia,  from  Columbia  River,  arrived  a 
few  days  ago  and  brought  a  young  lawyer,  J.  Ricord,  Esq., 
from  New  York  State.  Dr.  Judd,  though  confined  to 
his  room,  sent  for  him  immediately,  hoping  to  secure  his 
services  for  the  present,  at  least.  He  has  a  fine  address, 
and  is  very  good  looking,  is  well  educated  and  of  French 
extraction.  I  feel  as  if  a  kind  Providence  had  sent  him 
just  now  to  save  my  husband's  life,  for  I  am  quite  sure 
he  can  not  sustain  such  a  load  of  toil  and  responsibility 
much  longer  without  assistance. 

On  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Brown,  the  American  commis- 
sioner, Dr.  Judd  was  appointed  Secretary  of  Foreign 
Affairs,  as  he  says  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Richards,  which  I 
must  quote,  it  is  so  characteristic : 


A  Striking  Scene.  129 

"  Decetnber,  1843, 
".  .  .  .  You  will  have  heard,  ere  this,  that  I  am  appointed 
Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs.     This  seemed  necessary 
for  the  present,  in  order  to  do  business  with  Mr.  Brown.     I,  of 
course,  take  the  bull  by  the  horns.     I  do  not  like  the  office." 

-  The  king  and  premier  have  removed  from  Lahaina 
to  this  place.  I  wish  I  could  adequately  describe  a 
scene  that  occurred  in  our  large  upper  room  the  day 
after  the  flag  was  restored,  when  the  native  officers,  who 
held  commissions  under  Lord  George,  and  drilled  troops 
for  the  service  of  Her  Britannic  Majesty,  came  to  receive 
the  king's  pardon.  Most  of  them  were  the  companions 
of  his  childhood  and  his  personal  attendants.  They  for- 
sook him  in  his  adversity  for  what  they  considered  the 
popular  side ;  they  were  traitors,  of  course,  and  might 
have  been  hanged  for  treason. 

As  they  came  up-stairs,  one  by  one,  and  kneeled  be- 
fore him,  and  he  extended  his  hand  in  token  of  pardon 
and  forgiveness,  I  could  see  the  struggle  it  cost  him  to 
restrain  himself  and  keep  back  the  big  tears  that  were 
blinding  him. 

They  made  the  king  a  grand  supper  a  few  evenings 
since  in  the  rooms  so  lately  occupied  by  the  British 
commission.  These  rooms  belong  to  Haalilio,  and  will 
be  occupied  soon  by  Mr.  Ricord.  Toasts  were  given — ■ 
in  cold  water,  of  course — and  were  not  the  less  hearty  on 
that  account.  The  king  continues  true  to  his  temperance 
pledge.  John  Young's  sentiment  was  so  original  I  must 
give  it  you : 

"  To  the  Hawaiian  flag,  which  was  lowered  under  a 
mistaken  idea,  as  the  ends  of  the  lanyards  are  in  the 
hands  of  the  king's  envoys  in  England." 

I  repeated  it  to  the  admiral,  who  seemed  to  enjoy  it 
exceedingly. 


Honolulu, 


I  have  not  time  to  give  a  description  of  the  Restora- 
tion party  given  by  Mrs.  H ,  wife  of  the  American 

Consul,  assisted  by  Com.  Jones  and  Capt.  Stribling,  of 
the  American  navy.  The  supper-table,  spread  in  a  long 
arbor,  was  decorated  in  a  very  tasteful  manner,  and  the 
fine  band  from  the  ship-of-war  United  States  was  in  at- 
tendance. Grave  and  gay  promenaded  to  the  national 
air  of  "  God  save  the  King."  Dancing  was  deferred  until 
ten  o'clock,  when  the  older  guests  took  leave. 

Notwithstanding  the  disturbances  of  the  past  year, 
there  have  been  some  improvements.  Streets  have  been 
widened  and  planted  with  rows  of  trees  and  a  few  hand- 
some stores  and  dwellings  have  been  erected  by  foreign 
residents.  Carriages  are  becoming  quite  common,  and 
oxen  are  fast  taking  the  place  of  human  teams.  The 
census  has  just  returned  the  number  of  inhabitants  in 
Honolulu  as  nine  thousand,  one  thousand  of  whom  are 
foreigners,  representing  fifteen  different  nations.  Gov. 
Kekuanaoa  is  a  kind  of  mayor,  and  keeps  this  heteroge- 
neous mass  in  order.  Eleven  ships-of-war  have  visited 
this  port  during  the  year,  five  of  them  American,  five 
English,  and  one  French. 

Public  opinion  improves,  particularly  in  regard  to  the 
temperance  question.  Mr.  Damon,  our  beloved  Mr. 
Dieirs  successor  in  the  seamen's  chaplaincy,  is  an  arr 
dent  temperance  man,  and  his  influence  in  the  good 
cause  is  felt  among  seamen  and  strangers  who  visit  us. 
This  principle  seems  to  be  the  very  foundation  of  our 
national  prosperity. 

A  few  words  about  the  new  palace.  The  building  is  of 
coral,  and  contains  a  double  drawing-room  and  two  other 
rooms  divided  by  a  hall.  It  was  built  by  the  governor 
for  his  little  daughter  Victoria,  but  purchased  for  the 
king  as  a  temporary  residence.     The   sofas,  bedstead, 


Restoration  Anthem,."  13 


tables,  and  clock-case  are  carved  from  the  native  mahog- 
any by  a  German  cabinet-maker.  The  grounds  adjoin 
those  of  the  premier,  where  we  live,  and  are  tastefully 
laid  out  and  planted  with  young  trees.  It  is  a  great 
pleasure  to  assist  in  purchasing  and  arranging  center- 
tables,  vases,  chandeliers,  etc. 

A  guard  stands  at  the  gate,  and  people  are  required 
to  send  in  their  names  before  admittance,  which  we  hope 
will  prevent  the  rabble  from  access  to  the  king,  as  here- 
tofore, with  every  petty  concern,  as  if  he  were  a  con- 
stable or  justice  of  the  peace. 

Dr.  Judd  has  purchased  and  put  up  for  the  king  a 
handsome  billiard  table,  so  he  need  not  be  tempted  to 
seek  amusement  beyond  his  own  premises.  He  is  pas- 
sionately fond  of  the  game,  and  is  said  to  be  very  skillful 
in  it.  We  are  ready  to  contrive  anything  that  is  inno- 
cent to  withdraw  him  from  low  associates. 

Haalilio  will  be  appointed  chamberlain  on  his  return. 
He  has  refined  tastes  naturally,  and  improved  by  his 
foreign  travels,  will  appreciate  the  improvements  in  the 
royal  household. 

I  copy  the  "  Restoration  Anthem/'  composed  by  E. 
O.  Hall,  and  sung  at  the  picnic  given  by  the  king  to  the 
admiral  in  Murami  Valley : 

Tune — "  God  save  the  King" 

"  Hail  to  our  rightful  King ! 
We  joyful  honors  bring 

This  day  to  thee . 
Long  live  your  majesty ; 
Long  reign  this  dynasty  ; 
And  for  posterity 
The  sceptre  be. 

"  Hail  to  the  worthy  name, 
Worthy  his  country's  fame, 
Thomas  the  brave. 


132  Honolulu. 


Long  shall  thy  virtues  be 
Shrined  in  our  memory, 
Who  came  to  set  us  free, 
Quick  o'er  the  wave. 

"  Hail  to  our  Heavenly  King ! 
To  Thee  our  thanks  we  bring 

Worthy  of  all. 
Loud  we  Thine  honors  raise ; 
Loud  be  our  song  of  praise ; 
Smile  on  our  future  days, 

Sovereign  of  all." 


o 


XXXI. 

Letter  of  President  Tyler— A  Declaration — William 
Richards  to  G.  P.  Judd—Mr.  BrinsmadJs  Letter 
— Prospects  of  Failure — Sir  Geo.  Simpson's  Letter 
—Belgian  Hopes  and  Promises — Admiral  Thomas' 
Parting  Address  —  Parting  Salutations  —  Ship  oj 
State  fairly  Launched — Mr.  Ricord—Mr.  Wyllie 
—  Dr.  Judd — Mr.  Richards1  Return  —  Mourning 
for  Haalilio — Leleiohoku — Death  of  Gov.  Adams ; 
his  Effects— A  Struggle— Haalilio— Death  of  Au- 
hea;  her  History. 

FFICIAL  letter  from  President  Tyler  to  His  Ha- 
waiian Majesty : 


"  To  His  Majesty  Kamehameha  III.,  King  of  the  Hawaiian 

Islands  : 

"  Great  and  Good  Friend  : — I  have  received  a  letter  and  ac- 
companying documents,  which  your  Majesty  addressed  to  me 
on  the  31st  of  July  last,  announcing  that  in  consequence  of  pro- 
ceedings of  Rear-Admiral  Thomas,  Commander-in-chief  of  Her 
Britannic  Majesty's  naval  force  in  the  Pacific,  the  flag  of  your 
country  has  been  restored  to  you  with  all  the  honors  due  to  the 
sovereign  of  a  free  and  independent  State. 

"  I  congratulate  your  Majesty  upon  this  event,  and  trust  that 
it  may  be  the  occasion  of  continuing  and  confirming  the  inde- 
pendence and  prosperity  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  of  con- 
tributing to  the  tranquillity  of  your  Majesty's  reign. 

H I  pray  God  to  have  your  Majesty  in  His  holy  keeping. 

"Written  at  Washington  the  20th  day  of  November,  1843. 

"  Your  good  friend,  John  Tyler. 

"  By  the  President. 

■  A.  P.  Upshur,  Secy  of  State.'* 


"DECLARATION. 

"  Her  Majesty,  the  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland,  and  His  Majesty  the  King  of  the  French, 

(133) 


134  Honolulu, 


taking  into  consideration  the  existence  in  the  Sandwich  Islands 
of  a  Government  capable  of  providing  for  the  regularity  of  its 
relations  with  foreign  nations,  have  thought  it  right  to  engage 
reciprocally  to  consider  the  Sandwich  Islands  as  an  Independent 
State,  and  never  to  take  possession,  either  directly  or  indi- 
rectly, under  title  of  Protectorate,  or  under  any  other  form,  of 
any  part  of  the  territory  of  which  they  are  composed. 

"The  undersigned,  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  principal  Secretary 
of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs,  and  the  Ambassador  Extraordinary 
of  His  Majesty  the  King  of  the  French,  at  the  Court  of  London, 
being  furnished  with  the  necessary  powers,  hereby  declare  in 
consequence  that  their  said  Majesties  take  reciprocally  that  eni- 
gagement. 

"  In  witness  whereof,  the  undersigned  have  signed  the  present 
declaration,  and  have  affixed  thereto  the  seals  of  their  arms. 

"  Done  in  duplicate  at  London,  the  28th  day  of  November,  1843. 
"  (Signed,)  Aberdeen. 

"  St.  Aulaire." 

Extract  of  a  letter  from  Mr.  Richards  to  Dr.  Judd : 

" .  .  .  .  We  have  had  the  untiring  aid  of  Mr.  Brinsmade,  not 
only  in  making  out  our  originals  of  the  communications  to  the 
Foreign  Office,  but  he  has  spent  days  and  nights  in  copying  for 
us. 

"  Should  there  be  any  failure  in  the  accomplishment  of  our 
plans  in  Belgium,  so  that  he  should  not  receive  recompense  from 
that  source,  he  will  in  such  case  be  entitled  to  a  handsome  re- 
ward from  Government  for  the  aid  he  has  rendered.  In  relation 
to  the  operations  of  Mr.  B.  I  can  say,  that  last  week  we  had 
definite  promises  from  heavy  capitalists,  and  if  any  reliance  can 
be  placed  in  the  most  business-jike  men  in  Belgium,  all  will  be 
satisfactorily  arranged  in  a  week.  But  we  have  fully  learned  to 
consider  words  as  nothi7ig,  till  they  are  written  on  paper — par- 
ticularly those  which  relate  to  time.  In  this  last  respect  they 
are  as  bad  in  France  and  Belgium  as  they  are  in  Hawaii." 

Extract   from   Mr.   Brinsmade's  letter  to    Mr.   Judd, 
dated  London,  September  14,  1844: 

" ....  I  hope  myself  to  see  you  soon  after  you  receive  this, 
as  I  am  fully  determined  that  I  will  not  remain  much  longer  in 


Address  of  Admiral  Thomas.  135 

Europe.  No  person  can  tell  how  much  I  have  suffered  during 
the  last  year  and  a  half  from  the  anxieties  and  uncertainties  at- 
tending my  movements. 

"  But  hoping  to  have  some  long  evenings  for  reviewing  the 
scenes  which  have  transpired  during  our  separation,  I  shall  re- 
main, with  unabated  regard  for  you  and  yours,  and  all  that  con- 
cerns you,         Faithfully,        Your  friend  and  servant, 

"  P.  A.  feRINSMADE." 

From  Sir  George  Simpson  to  Mr.  Richards : 

"London,  November  29,  1844. 

"  I  found  Mr.  Brinsmade  in  London,  on  my  arrival,  at  St.  Paul's 
Coffee  House,  and  still  clinging  to  Belgium  hopes  and  promises. 
It  has,  for  the  past  twelve  months,  been  quite  evident  that  nothing 
tangible  would  arise  out  of  these  negotiations,  and  I  believe  he 
has  broken  off  further  communication. 

"  Mr.  Brinsmade  pressed  me  very  much  to  assist  him  in  getting 
up  a  joint  stock  company  in  this  country  (England),  with  a  view 
to  the  sale  of  his  privileges  from  the  Hawaiian  Government,  and 
to  the  establishment  of  an  import  and  export  trade  with  the 
Islands ;  but  I  considered  it  too  visionary  to  be  entertained  for 
a  moment,  and  I  declined  taking  any  active  part  in  the  matter." 

Address  of  Admiral  Thomas : 

"  I  have  the  honor  to  congratulate  your  Majesty  upon  the  ar- 
rival of  Consul-General  Miller.  He  is  the  bearer  of  those  assur- 
ances of  friendship  from  my  sovereign,  which  I  had  the  pleasure 
to  anticipate  and  of  conveying  to  your  Majesty  in  July  last. 

"  I  am  grateful  in  being  allowed  this  opportunity  of  expressing 
to  your  Majesty  how  highly  I  appreciate  the  attention  which  has 
been  shown  to  me  during  my  residence  of  upwards  of  six  months 
at  Honolulu.  And  I  have  now  the  honor  to  take  leave  of  your 
Majesty,  with  an  earnest  hope  that  my  visit  to  your  dominions, 
and  the  permanent  residence  of  a  diplomatic  agent  from  my  sov- 
ereign, may  be  the  happy  means  of  closer  uniting  our  respective 
countries  by  ties  of  amity  and  commercial  advantage. 

"  May  the  Divine  Providence  be  pleased  to  bless  your  Majesty 
with  health,  and  grant  you  to  witness  for  many  years  the  increas- 
ing happiness  and  prosperity  of  your  subjects. 

*  Richard  Thomas." 


136  Honolulu, 


Extract  from  the  Polynesian  :  * 

"  Agreeably  to  a  general  invitation  a  number  of  the  foreign 
residents  assembled  on  the  evening  of  February  26,  at  the  house 
of  Dr.  Judd,  to  tender  their  parting  salutations  to  Admiral 
Thomas.  The  guests  assembled  at  eight  o'clock,  and  as  the  ad- 
miral entered  the  avenue  the  whole  house  was  suddenly  illumi- 
nated, so  that  darkness  was  turned  to  day. 

"His  Excellency  the  Governor,  Consul-General  Miller,  the 
United  States  Commissioner,  the  American,  French,  and  Peru- 
vian consuls,  several  English  naval  officers,  foreign  residents, 
ladies  and  geittlemen,  the  families  of  the  American  Mission;  and 
the  school  of  the  young  chiefs  were  present. 

"  The  utmost  ease,  cheerfulness,  and  kind  feeling  were  mani- 
fested.   The  admiral  and  suite  were  in  high  spirits. 

"An  address  was  made  to  the  admiral  by  the  American  consul, 
Mr.  Hooper,  in  behalf  of  the  residents ;  and  before  he  could  re- 
ply, many  rich  and  mellow  voices  joined  in  a  farewell  song  pre- 
pared for  the  occasion,  which  was  followed  by  '  Home,  sweet 
home.'  Those  who  were  present  will  not  soon  forget  the  inter- 
esting and  deeply  exciting  scenes  attendant  upon  the  farewell 
salutations  to  Admiral  Thomas." 

From  this  period  we  may  consider  the  ship  of  State 
fairly  launched,  and  her  independence  acknowledged  by 
three  great  nations. 

Mr.  Ricord  proved  himself  a  man  of  talent  and  an 
indefatigable  worker,  crowding  the  labors  of  years  into 
months.  He  prepared  a  new  code  of  laws,  and  organized 
the  Government  into  distinct  departments — the  foreign, 
financial,  interior,  and  educational — the  last  destined  for 
Mr.  Richards  on  his  return. 

Long  pending  disputes  were  yet  undecided ;  and  as 
the  Government  had  been  recognized  "  as  capable  of  sus* 
taining  its  relations  with  foreign  powers,"  it  was  neces- 


*  A  newspaper  published  in  Honolulu,  edited  by  Mr.  James  Jackson 
Jarves. 


Death  of  Haalilio.  137 

sary  to  shoot  ahead  and  anticipate  the  march  of  the 
native  mind,  in  order  to  cope  with  foreign  skill  and  in- 
trigue. 

Dr.  Judd  resigned  his  office  as  Minister  or  Secretary 
of  Foreign  Affairs,  and  R.  C.  Wyllie,  Esq.,  a  Scotch  gen- 
tleman, who  came  in  the  suite  of  Consul-General  Miller, 
was  appointed  to  fill  it.  Dr.  Judd  was  obliged  to  fill  the 
office  of  Minister  of  the  Interior,  as  well  as  that  of  Min- 
ister of  Finance,  and  to  control  all  the  departments,  as 
the  king  and  chiefs  held  him  responsible  for  the  acts  of 
all  the  other  officers  of  Government. 

In  the  midst  of  the  high  pressure,  in  settling  unjust 
and  fraudulent  claims  to  large  tracts  of  valuable  land,  and 
other  vexed  matters  of  law  of  long  standing,  there  were 
people  found  weak  enough  to  stir  up  discontent  among 
the  people,  and  excite  their  suspicion  and  jealousy 
against  the  white  men  employed  in  Government  offices, 
particularly  at  Lahaina,  where  perhaps  there  might  have 
been  a  little  pique  on  the  removal  of  the  Court  from  that 
place  to  Honolulu. 

One  Sunday  morning  in  March,  1845,  we  heard  the 
king's  voice  calling  to  us  from  his  veranda  and  saying, 
"  Mr.  Richards  has  returned,  but  Haalilio  is  dead." 

A  letter  to  Mrs.  Bingham  from  Mrs.  Judd : 

"  Honolulu,  March  24,  1845. 

"  My  dear  Mrs.  Bingham  :— Captain  Snow,  in  the  Montreal, 
arrived  yesterday  morning,  returning  Mr.  Richards  in  health  and 
safety,  and,  sad  to  tell,  the  lifeless  remains  of  our  dear  Haalilio. 
Our  very  hearts  bled,  we  so  longed  to  greet  him  again  in  his  own 
native  land,  for  his  own  sake,  for  the  love  we  bore  hirfi,  and  then 
we  had  so  many  cherished  plans,  in  which  his  accomplishments, - 
enriched  by  observation  during  his  three  years'  travel,  were  to 
be  turned  to  great  account.  The  new  palace  finished  and  fur- 
nished, the  grounds  laid  out,  the  king  and  queen  assuming  a 


138  Ho7ioluln. 


position  calculated  to  secure  respect,  every  arrangement  made  to 
place  Haalilio  at  his  post  by  the  king's  side  as  chamberlain — but 
alas !  alas !  our  hopes  are  laid  in  dust.  I  wish  you  could  have 
been  with  us  yesterday  morning  at  the  palace  when  Mr.  Richards 
arrived.  All  the  chiefs,  old  and  young,  numbering  thirty,  assem- 
bled for  prayer.  It  was  an  intensely  sad  and  interesting  scene  to 
us  all.  The  king  is  perfectly  heart-broken,  and  mourns  as  David 
for  Jonathan. 

"Why  did  not  you  and  Mr.  Bingham  return  with  them  ?  The 
people  are  disappointed,  as  they  had  been  encouraged  to  expect 
you  with  Captain  Snow.  How  glad,  how  very  glad  we  are  to 
welcome  back  Mr.  Richards.  He  looks  well.  Mrs.  R.  is  at  La- 
haina,  and  Mr.  R.  goes  for  her  this  evening.  I  trust  all  the 
bitterness  of  their  long  separation  will  soon  be  forgotten  in  their 
happy  reunion. 

"  Death  is  making  sad  inroads  among  the  rulers  and  the  Mission 
also.  Your  old  friend  Governor  Adams  is  gone.  He  left  his 
property  to  Alexander,  Leleiohoku,  and  his  Kanaka  agent. 
Auhea*  laid  claim  to  a  lion's  share.  Poor  woman !  how  soon 
she  followed  him  to  the  'silent  land.'  John  Young  is  appointed 
premier  in  her  place,  and  will  do  much  better.  You  know  how 
it  was — she  had  the  office,  and  honor,  and  pay,  too,  but  Dr.  Judd 
had  to  do  her  work. 

"  Leleiohoku  has  signed  the  temperance  pledge,  but  it  is  hard 
work  to  keep  it  after  so  long  indulgence.  He  is  to  forfeit  his 
fine  schooner  (his  pet)  if  he  breaks  his  pledge.  He  has  resigned 
himself  into  the  hands  of  Dr.  Judd,  as  a  dutiful  child,  and  says 
he  is  his  only  friend.  It  is  true,  the  king  and  old  chiefs  have 
been  rather  severe  in  threatening  to  deprive  him  of  rank  as  well 
as  property ,  But  then  he  behaved  very  badly  when  he  drank, 
you  know.  He  struck  the  king  and  would  have  killed  him,  if 
not  prevented.  He  has  had  a  very  severe  fever,  and  in  his  de- 
lirium would  submit  to  no  one  but  the  doctor. 

"  Old  Governor  Adams's  things  were  brought  down  here  from 
Kailua  and  sold  at  auction,  instead  of  being  thrown  into  the  sea, 
as  you  have  witnessed  on  similar  occasions.  It  was  a  curious 
medley,  such  heaps  of  old  military  coats,  broadcloth  and  flannels, 
mouldy  and  moth-eaten,  silk,  crape,  nankeen,  bombazine,  damask 


*Auhea,  Kekauluohi — mother  of  Lunalilo. 


Kekauliiohi  Dead.  139 


and  velvets  all  dropping  to  pieces — material  enough  to  clothe 
all  the  people  of  his  village.  He  left  also  quite  a  sum  of  ready 
money,  which  Auhea  claims,  and  very  properly,  perhaps.  She 
pacified  her  conscience  by  giving  one  thousand  dollars  of  it  to 
support  the  native  schools. 

"You  can  perhaps  have  some  idea  of  the  political  turmoil 
among  us.  It  is  the  same  old  story,  except  that  the  new  Govern- 
ment, with  its  naturalized  white  officers,  takes  the  place  of  the 
missionaries  between  the  nation  and  its  enemies.  It  is  very  dis- 
couraging. Every  inch  of  ground,  every  prerogative  for  the  king, 
as  an  independent  sovereign,  has  to  be  fought  for.  While  unjust 
claims  to  large  portions  of  land,  and  undue  influence  in  the  na- 
tive courts  by  foreign  officers,  are  being  warded  off  with  one  hand, 
the  other  is  just  now  needed  against  an  attack  from  disaffected 
natives,  with  our  good  David  Malo  at  their  head.  He  was 
always  a  radical.  Then  again  some  of  our  dear  friends  are  afraid 
we  shall  not  be  able  to  bear  so  much  prosperity.  How  little  we 
know,  sometimes,  of  what  is  passing  in  each  other's  hearts,  or 
sympathy  instead  of  censure  would  be  called  forth. 

"  It  seems  that  Haalilio  died  December  3d,  two  weeks  after 
leaving  Boston.  He  was  inclined  to  pulmonary  affections.  His 
health  improved  as  he  traveled,  and  he  had  borne  the  cold  of 
the  two  northern  winters,  but  those  November  winds  off  our 
coast  were  too  much  for  him.  What  a  pity  Mr.  Richards  could 
not  have  sailed  earlier.  It  was  the  desire  of  his  heart,  he  said  to 
Mr.  R.,  to  see  his  country  once  more,  to  embrace  his  beloved 
king  and  aged  mother,  then  he  could  die  without  regret.  He 
was  baptized,  as  he  requested,  a  few  days  before  his  death.  His 
last  breath  was  a  prayer  for  his  king  and  country.  You,  my  dear 
sister,  his  first  instructor,  will  join  us  in  lamenting  his  early 
death,  for  his  sun  went  down  while  it  was  yet  day.  With  our 
united  '  aloha '  to  all  your  beloved  household, 

"  I  am  yours,  etc." 

Extracts  from  the  Polynesian  : 

"In  the  spring  of  1845  a  most  distressing  influenza  visited  the 
Islands,  prostrating  with  acute  suffering  all  classes  of  the 
population.  June  7th,  Kekauluohi,  the  premier,  was  attacked 
and  died  after  a  short  illness. 


140  Honolulu. 


"  In  early  life  she  was  betrothed  to  Pomare,  the  former  king 
of  Tahiti,  and  had  his  life  been  prolonged,  it  is  quite  probable 
she  would  have  been  sent  to  him. 

"  She  was  married  to  Kamehameha  i,.  ^though  he  was  her 
mother's  husband !  And  she  was  afterw *  A  che  wife  of  his  son, 
Kamehameha  II. 

"  As  she  possessed  a  retentive  memory,  she  was  selected  by 
Kamehameha  I.  as  a  repository  of  an;  >;nt  lore,  which  consisted 
in  genealogies,  historic  legends,  songs  and  proverbs. 

"  Her  education  was  in  the  hand*  of  vigorous  teachers,  who 
required  her  close  attention  many  hours  a  day  for  several  years. 

"  Kekauluohi  was  strongly  attached  to  the  old  feudal  customs 
of  the  country,  but  was  nevertheless  not  blind  to  its  evil  ten- 
dencies, and  never  withheld  her  consent  to  the  liberal  measures 
of  reform,  which  have  of  late  characterized  the  government  of 
the  Islands. 

"  She  early  gave  attention  to  religious  Instruction,  and  made 
a  public  profession  of  her  faith  in  Christ  m  1828.  Having  re- 
ceived a  large  bequest  from  her  relative,  Gov.  Adams,  of  Hawaii 
she  consecrated  one-tenth  of  it  to  religious  purposes. 

"After  the  departure  of  Liholiho  for  England,  she  was  mar 
ried  to  Charles  Kanaina,  and  leaves  a  son  ten  years  old,  William 
Lunalilo,  a  promising  boy  and  pupil  in  the  Royal  School. 

"  Her  father's  name  was  Kalaimamahu,  who  was  the  son  of 
Keoua,  who  was  the  son  of  Keeaumaku,  who  was  the  son  of 
Keawe. 

"  Being  the  last  adult  member  of  so  high  a  family  and  the  guar- 
dian of  numerous  dependents,  she  leaves  a  large  circle  to  mourn 
her  death  and  their  irretrievable  loss." 


XXXII. 

King  resides  at  Honolulu — Furnishing  a  Palace— 
The  Queen — Going  to  Church— Rivalry— Our  Re- 
moval—Boarders  —Politics  in  the  Family — Trouble 
•with  George  Brown — Trouble  Generally — Mr. 
Richards'1  Troubles— Visit  of  Sir  Geo.  F.  Seymour 
— Agitation  at  Lahaina—The  King  to  Petitioners 
— King's  A  ddresses — John  Young's  A  ddresses —  The 
Oath  of  Allegiance— The  Native  Government  Su- 
preme, 

AFTER  the  removal  of  the  king  and  queen  to  their 
new  residence,  some  attention  has  been  required 
to  arrange  their  household. 
It  is  the  custom  of  the  chiefs  to  keep  crockery,  table- 
linen,  silver,  etc.,  packed  away  in  bundles  and  distrib- 
uted among  their  attendants,  to  be  forthcoming  when 
called  for,  which  is  only  on  great  occasions,  as  they  usu- 
ally eat  fish  and  poi  served  in  a  very  simple  manner,  re- 
quiring little  else  than  a  calabash,  fish  dishes,  and  finger 
bowls.  The  king  has  now  a  table  spread  regularly  for 
breakfast  and  dinner,  under  the  supervision  of  a  well- 
trained  English  steward  and  purveyor. 

I  have  had  some  amusement  as  well  as  labor  in  col- 
lecting together  old  silver  teapots,  cups,  pitchers,  glasses, 
candlesticks,  India  shades,  spoons,  knives  and  forks  ;  and 
as  one  mysterious  bundle  after  another  has  been  opened 
from  its  numerous  folds  "of  kapa,  in  watching  the  jealous 
eyes  of  the  old  servants,  who  look  on  with  wonder  and 
question  if  I  can  be  so  disinterested  in  the  matter  as  to 
scour  and  rub  and  wash  in  such  a  way,  just  for  the  sake 
of  making  the  king  more  respected,  as  well  as  more  com* 

(141) 


142  Honolulu. 


fortabie.  They  see  me  removing  rubbish  and  planting 
trees  and  flowers,  and  ask  me  if  I  am  going  to  take  them 
away  by  and  by  when  we  move. 

The  queen  is  fine-looking,  but  has  had  few  advantages 
of  improvement.  She  was  married  to  her  royal  husband 
very  young,  and  he  has  always  kept  her  as  close  as  a 
Turk.  My  daughters  assist  in  arranging  her  wardrobe. 
She  has  laid  aside  her  glowing  reds  and  high-colored 
shawls,  of  which  she  was  so  fond,  and  looks  very  pretty 
in  straw-colored  satin,  with  hat,  feathers,  ribbons,  flow- 
ers, and  gloves  to  match. 

We  always  call  for  and  go  with  them  to  church,  which 
secures  regular  attendance.  There  was  some  difficulty 
in  arranging  suitable  seats  for  their  Majesties,  as  it  is  not 
Hawaiian  etiquette  for  any  one  to  sit  above  the  king. 
In  olden  time  to  climb  a  tree  or  housetop  under  which 
a  chief  sat,  incurred  the  penalty  of  death.  The  galleries 
in  the  church  seated  the  common  people  over  the  head 
of  the  king.  There  was  some  strong  feeling  upon  the 
subject  among  some  of  the  old  chiefs  and  their  retainers, 
but  the  king  ended  the  difficulty  by  saying:  "  Old  things 
are  passed  away.  I  prefer  a  place  near  the  pulpit  and 
by  a  window,  so  as  to  have  fresh  air.  I  do  not  care  who 
is  in  the  galleries,  if  they  do  not  break  through."  This 
pew  is  cushioned,  and  the  window  draped  with  orange 
and  crimson  satin,  with  conveniences  for  hymn-books 
and  Bibles.  The  king  has  a  fine  voice  and  is  fond  of 
sacred  music. 

The  old  premier  was  a  little  jealous  of  the  queen,  be- 
ing her  superior  by  birth,  and  when  I  made  purchases 
for  them,  I  was  always  obliged  to  allow  the  old  lady  the 
first  choice.  She  always  wanted  her  sash  a  little  longer 
and  her  bows  a  little  larger  than  the  queen's.  And 
because  the  latter  was  young  and  had  pretty  hair,  which 


A  New  Home.  143 


she  wore  in  ringlets,  why,  the  dear  old  premier  must 
have  hers  curled  too,  which  made  her  a  little  ridiculous, 
yet  she  was  really  good  and  tried  to  be  an  exemplary 
Christian. 

I  have  told  you  how  we  rented  her  house,  with  a 
written  agreement  that  we  might  keep  it  as  long  as  we 
wished,  as  she  would  never  occupy  it  after  the  death  of 
her  sister.  But  when  the  king  moved  into  a  new  house 
and  everything  looked  so  stylish  and  comfortable,  she 
changed  her  mind  and  wanted  her  house  again  ;  besides, 
we  had  dispelled  the  ghosts. 

The  governor  in  his  kindness  fitted  up  another  place 
for  us,  and  we  vacated  in  her  favor.  Our  new  house  is 
not  so  nice  as  hers,  but  in  some  respects  we  like  it  better. 
The  yard  is  full  of  rubbish  and  ruins  of  adobe  walls  and 
pig-sties,  and  we  shall  have  the  pleasure  for  the  fourth 
time  of  pulling  up  thistles  and  planting  roses. 

Mr.  Ricord,  now  the  attorney-general ;  Mr.  C.  G.  Hop- 
kins, an  English  law  student,  sent  out  at  the  suggestion 
of  Mr.  Richards;  and  Mr.  R.  C.  Wyllie,  the  Minister  of 
Foreign  Affairs,  are  boarders  in  our  family.  This  brings 
a  good  deal  of  company,  and  still  more  politics,  into  the 
family  circle,  which  are  not  the  best  things  for  young 
minds.  I  often  question  if  it  is  my  duty  to  remain  much 
longer  at  such  a  painful  post  of  observation.  When  the 
independence  of  the  nation  was  secured  and  the  heavy 
debts  paid  off,  we  hoped  for  peace,  but  the  hope  was 
vain.  No  sooner  is  the  Government  out  of  one  diffi- 
culty than  it  is  involved  in  another. 

The  American  commissioner  has  thrown  down  the 
gauntlet  now  and  a  fierce  paper  war  is  progressing  be- 
tween him  and  the  attorney-general.  Both  lose  their 
temper.  The  commissioner  threatens  and  raves;  has 
interdicted  all  intercourse  between  the  officers  of  the 


744  Honolulu, 


American  men-of-war  and  those  of  the  Government,  ex- 
tending the  ban  to  even  the  families. 

He  made  a  great  dinner  on  the  "  glorious  Fourth,"  to 
which  he  invited  every  American  woman  in  the  place, 
with  the  exception  of  Mrs.  William  Paty  and  myself, 
whose  husbands  unfortunately  belonged  to  the  obnox- 
ious Government,  and  had  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance 
to  His  Hawaiian  Majesty.  At  evening  he  sent  a  fine 
band  of  music  from  a  ship-of-war  to  serenade  all  the 
ladies,  with  special  orders  to  pass  us  by.  But  as  he  did 
not  put  cotton  in  our  ears,  we  enjoyed  every  note  of  it 
notwithstanding  the  interdict. 

The  Belgian  contract  was  a  very  unfortunate  affair, 
and  gives  rise  to  endless  quarrels  and  disputes,  and  has 
alienated  warm  friends.  And  the  end  is  not  yet.  Mr. 
Richards  feels  the  responsibility,  as  he  helped  draw  the 
plan  and  signed  the  contract  in  Europe,  which  bound 
the  king  and  Government,  though  Haalilio  refused  his 
signature.  My  husband  has  put  his  shoulders  to  the 
wheel  to  help  him  out,  thereby  heaping  upon  himself  a 
great  deal  of  odium  from  parties  interested. 

Admiral  Seymour,  of  Her  Majesty's  service,  has  lately 
made  us  a  visit,  insisting  upon  an  immediate  settlement 
of  Mr.  Charlton's  land  claim.  Almost  everybody  in 
Honolulu  believes  the  claim  unjust  and  the  papers  dis- 
honestly drawn  up.  They  were  not  presented  until  after 
the  death  of  the  principal  witnesses,  and  the  death  of 
the  person  whose  signature  it  bears.  The  claim  is  made 
to  include  the  most  valuable  portion  of  the  town  and 
valuable  wharf  lots. 

The  town  was  in  a  state  of  excitement  during  the  ad- 
miral's visit,  and  most  absurd  reports  were  circulated  of 
threatened  cannonading,  frightening  children,  and  mak- 
ing timid  women  very  nervous.     I  sometimes  think  it 


More  Foreign    Troubles.  145 

would  be  pleasant  to  live  under  a  Government  strong 
enough  to  defend .  itself  from  the  inflictions  of  such 
wrongs. 

As  many  of  the  Cabinet  councils  are  held  in  our  par- 
lor, it  is  impossible  to  remain  in  blissful  ignorance  of 
what  is  passing,  as  I  fain  would  do.  One  of  the  keenest 
of  all  these  trials  has  been  the  Lahaina  agitation,  origi- 
nating among  natives  headed  by  Malo,  and  petitioning 
the  king  to  dismiss  all  the  foreigners  from  his  service, 
except  Mr.  Richards,  and  put  everything  back  where  it 
was  three  years  ago ;  also,  not  to  allow  any  more  white 
men  to  become  the  king's  subjects  by  taking  the  oath  of 
allegiance. 

Now  Malo  expected  some  good  position  under  the 
new  organization,  and  was  disappointed  in  not  getting  it. 
The  chiefs  were  afraid  of  his  radicalism,  for  he  was  good 
and  talented  and  conscientious,  though  headstrong. 
John  Ii  had  the  appointment;  a  milder,  more  judicious 
man,  if  less  energetic.  David  recommended  the  old 
order  of  things  as  better  than  the  new. 

The  king  made  a  tour  of  the  Islands  and  addressed 
the  people  in  various  places,  explaining  to  them  his  posi- 
tion and  policy. 

The  following  is  a  close  translation  of  the  king's  letter 
to  one  of  the  petitioners  at  Lahaina : 

"  Gracious  salutation.  Kindly  inform  the  old  men  and  women 
of  the  time  of  my  father,  that  I  greatly  desire  all  ancient  privi- 
leges should  be  renewed. 

"  One  privilege  which  Kamehameha  I.  proclaimed  to  the  com- 
mon people  was,  '  Old  men  and  old  women  shall  pass  and  lie 
down  in  safety  on  the  road.' 

"  That,  as  well  as  other  benefits  of  ancient  times  shall  be  per- 
petuated, if  they  are  conformable  with  others  which  have  been 
added,  and  some  of  them  will  be  changed  to  give  them  a  new 
character,  to  suit  new  circumstances  which  have  arisen  in  my 
7 


146  Honolulu. 


reign.  Therefore  I  have  appointed  certain  foreign  officers,  as,  a 
means  of  finding  out  all  the  advantages  that  exist  in  the  great 
Governments. 

"  I  have  not  appointed  these  foreigners  to  office  without  regard 
to  the  people  of  the  land.  I  have  appointed  them  because  my 
people  do  not  understand  fully  the  principles  of  action  which 
exist  in  the  great  countries  to  whose  family  we  have  been  ad- 
mitted. I  can  at  any  time  put  an  end  to  their  holding  office  in 
the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

"  I  earnestly  desire  that  the  common  people  be  employed,  if  it  is 
their  wish  and  that  of  my  court,  all  the  common  people  that  are 
acquainted  with  business,  after  the  manner  I  have  adopted.  Lr, 
L.  Kapeau,  a  commoner,  is  secretary  to  the  Treasury  Board,  and 
no  doubt  he  will  become  highly  competent.  I  wish  we  had 
many  such. 

"  Such  are  my  sentiments  at  present,  careful  lest  the  benefits 
conferred  by  my  father  should  become  a  dead  letter.  At  the 
same  time  I  desire  teachers  to  instruct  me  and  my  Court,  how  to 
transact  my  Government  business  agreeably  with  the  practice  of 
enlightened  nations. 

"  The  chiefs,  to  whom  you  think  those  offices  should  be  given, 
I  am  well  satisfied  could  never  perform  the  duties,  viz  :  Leleihoku, 
Paki,  Keoni  Ana  (John  Young).  These  all  hold  offices  in  my 
Government,  but  they  are  quite  incompetent  to  perform  the 
duties  which  I  have  assigned  to  others. 

"  I  hope  the  time  will  soon  come  when  all  these  offices  will  be 
filled  by  the  young  chiefs,  as  soon  as  their  education  is  com- 
pleted. 

M I  am  aware  of  the  advantage  of  native  clerks,  but  they  can 
not  readily  become  foreign  clerks — therefore  I  see  it  is  necessary 
to  appoint  others  for  that  department. 

"  Therefore  I  refused  assent  to  all  the  petitions  of  the  common 
people,  that  the  foreign  secretaries  be  set  aside  for  the  benefit  of 
native  ones. 

"  Ancient  men  and  women,  I  love  you  all,  therefore  I  talk  with 
you  through  the  estimable  person,  Kamakau,  who  made  known 
to  me  your  love  for  us.  Kamehameha." 

During  the  king's  tour  around  the  Island  of  Maui, 
among  several  addresses,  he  made  the  following  to  the 
people  of  Wailuku : 


Plain    Talk  from  the  King.  147 

"  I  have  addressed  you  before  with  my  *  kuhina '  (premier),  who 
is  gone.  I  alone  am  left.  I  now  repeat  the  same.  I  urge  you 
to  support  schools  and  cultivate  the  soil.  We  are  seeking  the 
good  of  the  country,  but  the  work  is  not  done.  We  are  making 
laws — they  are  not  obscure ;  if  they  were  so  to  us,  they  would  be 
so  to  you. 

**  Your  hereditary  chiefs  have  been  in  trouble,  and  therefore  I 
have  chosen  some  to  aid  them.  They  are  ministers  of  white  skin 
whom  you  see  here.  This  is  according  to  the  old  system.  They 
know  more  than  we,  and  I  have  chosen  them  for  the  sake  of 
knowledge.  You  have  heard  of  our  trouble — I  have  seen  it. 
Therefore  we  have  chosen  these  helpers  to  help  you. 

"We  have  heard  of  your  petitions.  Should  we  consent  to 
them,  trouble  would  immediately  follow  before  night.  I  ask  of 
you,  therefore,  to  put  an  end  to  your  wish  to  promote  that  peti- 
tion. I  do  not  think  you  meant  wrong.  You  did  what  you 
thought  best.  But  you  have  not  been  in  our  councils,  and  can 
not  know.  Abandon,  therefore,  that  idea.  Take  care  of  your 
children.  They  know  not  how  to  do  right,  but  you  must  lead 
them.  Send  them  to  school,  that  they  may  be  wise  to  know  our 
affairs.  Then  they  can  read  and  judge  for  themselves.  It  is  by 
reading  that  knowledge  is  gained.  This  is  for  your  advantage, 
that  the  dwelling  may  be  peace. 

"Hear  me,  parents  and  children,  commons.  This  is  what  I 
have  to  say." 

ADDRESS  OF  JOHN  YOUNG. 

"  You  have  all  heard  the  voice  of  your  king ;  have  often  heard 
it.  When  he  went  around  with  Kaahumanu,  we  were  all  children 
then.  Now  we  tell  you  the  same.  We  promote  the  same  re- 
ligion, the  same  justice,  the  same  desire  for  education.  We,  all 
of  us,  have  seen  the  past  troubles. 

"  Formerly,  when  important  business  was  done,  Dr.  Judd  would 
be  present,  but  must  keep  silent,  or  be  sent  away.  When  Kame- 
hameha  III.  put  on  him  his  own  garments,  then  he  was  heard. 
He  took  the  oath  of  allegiance,  and  stood  in  the  gap  to  save  us. 
This  year  you  have  petitioned  against  him — you  and  the  people 
of  Lahaina.  Did  you  ever  hear  of  a  people  destroyed  by  allegi- 
ance? America  was  overrun,  as  you  have  been  told,  and  the 
red  -skins  were  destroyed.     But  the  white  men  owed  them  no 


148  Honolulu. 


allegiance.  Do  you  think  that  I  or  Paki  can  do  the  work  of  a 
white  minister?  No.  The  young  chiefs  will,  we  hope,  be  quali- 
fied, but  now  we  must  have  these  white  men. 

"  I  do  not  think  you  have  occasion  to  petition.  The  king 
knows  best  his  own  business.  He  weeps  alone  in  his  own  house 
for  troubles  you  know  nothing  of,  and  seeks  the  best  means  of 
relief.     You  have  been  led  away  by  the  inconsiderate." 

At  another  place  on  the  same  island  the  king  said : 

"  I  have  not  often  spoken.  It  is  my  wish  to  visit  all  my  peo- 
ple. God  has  chosen  me  to  be  your  king.  You  are  my  children. 
You  see  me  before  you  in  the  enjoyment  of  peace.  Read  the 
public  prints.  What  was  esteemed  in  ancient  times,  is  of  little 
value  compared  with  what  we  know  now.  Let  us  take  care  of 
ourselves.  God  is  above.  In  no  enlightened  land  is  there  a 
denial  of  God.  You  have  heard  His  worship  recommended  by 
the  old  chiefs.  They  are  gone.  We,  who  were  children,  now 
stand  to  recommend  the  same.  I  have  not  a  wish  to  act  as  a 
child,  but  to  live  in  the  faithful  performance  of  my  duty." 

In  another  place  he  said  : 

"  I  address  you  in  the  name  of  God.  Religion  is  the  bulwark 
of  a  nation.  Think  not  the  missionaries  alone  say  this.  Every 
foreigner  knows  it.  No  country  prospers  without  religion.  Let 
us  strive  to  attain  it." 

Mr.  Young  said : 

"Laws  are  for  your  protection.  If  every  man  did  his  duty 
there  would  be  no  need  of  laws.  Religion  would,  if  sincerely 
pursued,  do  away  their  necessity.  Formerly  no  one  could  ap- 
proach the  king.  Death  was  the  portion  of  all  who  crossed  his 
shadow.  Now  he  is  one  of  you.  Then  he  was  king  and  god. 
Formerly  you  offered  your  eye-balls  to  the  king,  and  your  bodies, 
now  he  requires  you  to  use  them  in  gaining  instruction. 

"The  king  has  chosen  foreign  ministers.  Mr.  Richards  went 
as  subject  with  Haalilio.  More  have  been  needed  and  chosen. 
No  land  has  been  taken  by  those  who  have  taken  the  oath  of 
allegiance.  Bad  aliens  alone  are  dangerous  to  the  kingdom. 
The  king  has  watched  and  wept  over  his  toil,  until  he  chose  these 


Defence  of  Foreign  Ministers.  149 

men  to  aid  him.  And  he  is  now  at  rest.  Why  do  some  of  you 
say,  It  is  a  great  expense  ?  Shall  not  wisdom  be  paid  ?  Is  not 
wisdom  better  than  gold  ?  Those  who  take  the  oath  of  allegi- 
ance, will  be  faithful  to  serve  our  king. 

"Why  has  he  fatigued  himself  with  this  journey?  For  your 
good.  He  does  not  bathe  in  your  waters  to  make  them  '  tabu  ' 
for  further  use." 

The  principal  disputes  and  difficulties  in  which  the 
nation  had  been  involved  for  years  have  arisen  from  the 
complaints  of  foreigners  holding  lands  and  real  estate  in 
the  Islands  (some  of  them  married  to  native  wives),  and 
yet  claiming  the  protection  and  interference  of  their  home 
Government,  exercised  here  through  its  representative. 
Now  it  was  thought  that  if  fealty  to  the  rightful  sovereignty 
of  the  realm  was  required,  in  order  to  hold  landed  prop- 
erty, it  would  be  necessary  to  bring  all  disputes  arising 
therefrom  before  the  Hawaiian  courts,  to  be  settled  by 
the  only  legitimate  authorities. 

The  officers  of  the  new  cabinet  took  the  lead.  Um- 
brage has  been  taken  by  the  American  residents  on  ac- 
count of  this  measure,  and  contempt  and  ridicule  are 
poured  upon  it  with  unsparing  hand.  Toadyism, 
traitorous,  unpatriotic,  and  various  other  soft  epithets 
have  been  applied  to  those  who  have  had  the  moral 
courage  to  sustain  the  measure.  Its  defenders  argue 
that  it  is  the  only  policy  that  will  insure  harmony 
among  the  heterogeneous  mass  of  foreign -born  and 
native  subjects. 

If  laws  just  and  equal  are  impartially  extended  over 
all  classes,  there  will  be  less  room  for  jealous  feuds  on 
the  part  of  the  natives,  while  it  will  increase  the  interest 
of  foreign  residents  in  promoting  peace  and  national 
prosperity.  Those  who  intermarry  should  surely  bring 
the  civil  and  social  blessings  of  the  fatherland  to  the  one 


i  ^o  Honolulu. 


of  their  adoption.  Americans  ought  to  glory  in  trans- 
planting and  engrafting  the  liberal  policy  of  their  own 
fine  institutions  upon  old  heathen  despotisms.  ^If  this 
noble  work  can  sooner  be  achieved  by  owning  allegiance 
to  Kamehameha  III.,  why  should  it  be  withheld?  Thus 
far  it  works  well,  and  proves  a  strong  bond  of  brother- 
hood. 


XXXIII. 


Letter  from  a  Distinguished  Traveler— Opening  of  tht 
Legislative  Chambers— Feather  Cloak — The  Diplo- 
matic Corps—Female  Legislators —  The  King's  Speech 
—  The  Traveler's  Testimony — Sabbath  Evening  Serv- 
ice at  the  Palace— The  King's  Birthday — An  Acci- 
dent—  Letter  from  a  Correspondent  — Dr.  Judd?s 
Letter. 


L 


ETTER  from  a  distinguished  traveler: 

"Honolulu,  May  26,  1845. 


"  A  brief  account  of  the,  for  this  part  of  the  world,  novel  pro- 
ceedings which  have  characterized  the  opening  of  the  session  of 
the  Legislative  Chambers,  may  not  be  without  interest  to  your 
widely-extended  readers,  who  feel  any  curiosity  in  the  politics  of 
this  diminutive  kingdom. 

"Probably  most  are  aware  that  hitherto  Government  busi- 
ness has  been  most  irregularly  conducted,  the  discussions 
being  more  after  the  fashion  of  Indian  councils  than  anything 
else,  over  which  missionary,  or  merchant,  or  man-of-war  captain 
has  held  alternate  influence.  The  consequence  has  been,  as 
might  have  been  expected,  a  loose,  disjointed,  unequal  legisla- 
tion, adapted  neither  to  natives  nor  foreigners. 

"  The  Legislature  now  called  together,  consists  of  the  best  men 
of  the  nation.  It  is  divided  into  two  houses — that  of  the  Nobles, 
embracing  the  hereditary  and  the  newly-created  aristocracy  of  the 
kingdom,  and  that  of  the  Representatives,  elected  by  the  people 
of  the  several  islands. 

"  Assisted  by  the  foreign  professional  talent  in  their  service,  it 
is  proposed  at  this  session  to  reorganize  the  Government,  creat- 
ing an  independent  and  well-informed  judiciary,  after  the  model 
of  that  of  the  United  States,  recodifying  the  laws,  and  doing 
other  important  acts. 

"  That  the  session  should  be  opened  with  due  attention  to 
forms  and  dignity,  it  was  determined  that  the  king  should  go  in 

(151) 


152  Honolulu. 


state,  after  the  fashion  of  Queen  Victoria,  to  the  Parliament,  and 
read  before  them  a  speech. 

"  A  large  hall  (the  national  stone  church)  was  selected  for  the 
ceremony.  A  temporary  throne  was  prepared  in  the  middle, 
while  in  the  rear  and  front,  spreading  in  semicircular  rows,  were 
arranged  seats  for  the  nobles,  representatives,  officers  of  Govern- 
ment, the  foreign  diplomatic  corps,  and  invited  guests.  The 
body  of  the  house  was  thrown  open  to  the  public,  and  crowded 
to  excess  by  people  of  all  ranks,  classes,  and  nations  drawn  to- 
gether to  witness  a  spectacle  so  anomalous  in  Polynesia.  Tues- 
day, May  20th,  was  the  day  appointed,  and  to  add  to  the 
decorations  of  the  hall  and  throne,  the  old  stores  of  past  grandeur 
had  been  thoroughly  ransacked. 

"  Two  only  of  those  stately  and  splendid  '  kahilis,'  the  plume- 
like insignia  of  royalty,  at  once  so  beautiful  and  appropriate, 
were  to  be  found,  and  their  feathers  were  worn  and  rumpled  by 
age.  They  were,  however,  about  twenty  feet  high,  with  massive 
and  rich  staffs — the  one  surmounted  by  black  feathers  on  a  white 
ground— the  other  by  orange  and  crimson.  These  were  placed 
so  as  to  tower  over  the  throne,  over  which  was  thrown  the  only 
really  rich  remnant  of  royalty  left.  This  was  a  feather  cloak, 
made  of  very  minute  yellow  feathers,  two  or  three  only  being 
produced  by  a  single  bird,  and  attached  with  great  skill  to  a  fine 
net  or  gauze  work,  so  as  to  form  a  brilliant  and  even  garment, 
resembling  somewhat  delicate  and  malleable  plates  of  fine  gold. 
It  took  eight  generations  of  kings  to  complete  it.  There  was 
also  the  fine  old  spear  of  Kamehameha  T.,  and  feather  capes  of 
scarcely  less  beauty  than  the  cloak  borne  by  young  chiefs  attend- 
ant on  the  king.  But  all  those  rich  helmets  and  other  articles, 
which  elicited  the  encomiums  of  early  voyagers  for  their  skill  and 
workmanship,  have  now  either  perished  or  been  borne  away  to 
decorate  the  museums  of  Europe  and  America.  In  lieu  of  them 
the  chiefs  and  nobles  wore  the  more  glittering  uniforms  of  civil- 
ized lands,  heavy  with  gold  lace  and  gilt  buttons. 

"  The  diplomatic  corps  made  a  tolerably  brilliant  show.  The 
American  Commissioner's  uniform  is  certainly  the  neatest  and 
most  appropriate  that  has  appeared  here — plain  and  republican, 
but  not  wanting  in  effect.  The  English  Consul-General's  coat 
was  covered  with  silver  lace  and  decorations.    The  officers  of 


A  Stranger s  Impressions.  153 

the   English   ships-of-war  added  not  a  little  to  the  show  and 
glitter. 

"  The  effect  of  the  whole  was  made  more  pleasing  by  the  rich 
and  tasteful  dress  of  fifty  or  a  hundred  ladies. 

"  By  the  constitution  of  the  country,  female  chiefs  take  an 
active  part  in  Government  affairs,  and  are  governesses  and  peer- 
esses by  birth.  On  this  occasion  they  turned  out  in  all  their 
strength,  if  I  can  not  say  beauty,  though  some  of  them  are  very 
passable,  particularly  the  queen,  Mrs.  Rooke,  and  Mrs.  Young, 
if  I  can  add  size,  for  to  no  inconsiderable  weight  of  influence 
they  add  weight  of  body,  and  all  have  waists  that  would  carry 
envy  through  the  most  populous  establishment  of  Stamboul.  I 
do  not  think  their  average  weight  can  be  less  than  two  hundred 
pounds.  However,  they  were  dressed  in  excellent  taste,  and 
appeared  to  very  good  advantage. 

"  The  king  was  dressed  in  a  costly  and  splendid  uniform.  He 
came  attended  by  the  queen,  his  cabinet,  and  military  escort. 
As  he  entered  the  building,  the  new  royal  standard,  containing 
the  national  coat  of  arms,  designed  at  the  herald's  office  in  Lon- 
don, wholly  from  national  emblems,  was  hoisted  for  the  first 
time.  The  brass  band,  all  native  musicians,  struck  up  the  na- 
tional anthem  ;  guns  from  the  fort  thundered  forth  twenty-one 
times.  The  whole  company  arose,  and  the  king  walked  with 
much  dignity  to  his  throne.  A  prayer  was  offered  by  Rev.  Mr. 
Richards,  chaplain  of  the  Court,  after  which,  at  the  command  of 
the  king,  all  seated  themselves. 

"  The  king  then  covered  his  head  with  his  chapeau  in  a  graceful 
manner  and  read  his  speech,  which  you  will  find  printed,  as  well 
as  the  reports  of  the  cabinet  ministers,  which  reflect  great  credit 
upon  them  for  the  liberal  spirit  they  manifested  in  recommend- 
ing many  useful  changes  favorably  affecting  both  native  and  for- 
eign residents.  We  have  much  occasion  to  rejoice  that  the 
chiefs  have  been  so  wise  as  to  take  into  their  councils  men  of 
such  enlarged  views,  although  for  them  to  give  satisfaction  to 
all  parties  is  not  to  be  expected. 

"  After  the  king's  speech  the  houses  appointed  a  committee  to 
draft  a  reply,  and  then  adjourned. 

"  I  must  confess  that  gratifying  reflections  filled  my  mind  upon 
viewing  the  well-ordered  and  appropriate  ceremonies  of  the  day, 

7** 


154  Honolulu. 


and  the  absence  of  all  that  could  be  put  down  as  incongruous ; 
the  respect  shown  by  this  king,  so  recently  absolute,  to  constitu- 
tional forms ;  to  his  legislature  and  people ;  the  reciprocal  re- 
spect on  their  part;  the  becoming  uniforms,  decorations,  and 
dresses  of  chiefs  and  people ;  the  quiet,  gentlemanly  deportment 
of  all ;  the  ease  and  eloquence  of  the  speakers  ;  in  short,  the  tout 
ensemble  of  refinement  and  civilization.  Still  more  gratifying  is 
the  reflection  that  this  order  has  been  brought  out  of  disorder 
and  savage  barbarism  in  the  short  space  of  twenty  years  by  my 
countrymen." 


I  have  recorded  this  letter  here,  as  it  is  the  testimony 
of  a  stranger,  and  may  be  supposed  to  be  more  impar- 
tial than  if  it  had  originated  from  some  one  of  those  be- 
hind the  scenes,  who  had  such  a  time  in  gathering,  regu- 
lating, deciding,  and  putting  in  order  so  much  of  what 
appeared  on  the  above  occasion.  I  have  been  the  more 
anxious  to  give  you  correct  ideas,  as  it  is  probably  the 
last  scene  of  the  kind  in  transition  from  the  old  to  the 
new  order  of  things. 

It  was  very  difficult,  for  the  chiefs  to  find  feathers 
enough  for  the  two  "  kahilis,"  as  they  are  always  taken 
to  pieces  after  the  ceremony  and  packed  away  in  tapa 
and  calabashes.  The  moths  have  performed  their  share 
in  the  work  of  destruction,  and  the  feather  tax  is  ab- 
rogated. 

One  of  the  bright  sides  of  the  picture  at  present  is 
the  Sunday  evening  service,  held  in  the  palace  drawing- 
room.  The  pupils  of  the  Royal  School  attend,  and  con- 
stitute a  choir,  as  they  have  fine  voices.  One  of  the 
young  ladies  leads  the  singing  with  the  melodeon.  Mr. 
Richards  usually  conducts  the  service.  He  understands 
the  language  well,  and  the  habits  of  the  people  and  chiefs, 
so  that  he  can  adapt  truth  to  the  heart  and  understand- 
ing.    The  king  always  attends,  and  the  other  evening 


The  Kings  Birthday.  155 

he  remarked  upon  the  contrast  between  this  scene  and 
the  gross  idol-worship  of  his  ancestors. 

It  has  been  resolved  in  privy  council  that  His  Majesty 
was  born  March  17th.  The  anniversary  of  his  birthday 
was  accordingly  celebrated  this  year  as  a  national  holi- 
day. 

Two  hundred  guests  dined  at  the  king's  table,  and 
Mr.  Wyllie  made  a  party  in  the  evening  at  Mauna  Kilika. 
The  collation  was  amply  and  tastefully  arranged,  and 
without  wine  or  spirits  of  any  kind. 

During  the  salute  from  the  fort  on  Punchbowl,  a  na- 
tive was  killed,  and  two  more  badly  injured  by  the  pre- 
mature discharge  of  one  of  the  guns.  We  were  stand- 
ing with  the  king  in  the  palace  yard  and  saw  the  explo- 
sion. The  king  was  much  affected,  and  turning  to  Dr. 
Judd,  said,  "  Make  haste."  A  horse  was  quickly  mounted 
and  the  hill  ascended  in  front,  at  its  steepest  angle — a 
feat  seldom  performed. 

One  poor  native  was  dead,  literally  blown  to  pieces, 
and  another  died  the  next  day.  How  I  do  abhor  gun- 
powder !  I  am  afraid  that  the  monk,  who  it  is  said  in- 
vented it,  will  remain  a  long  time  in  purgatory  before 
his  sins  will  be  expiated 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  a  letter  from  Mrs. 
Fidelia  Coan : 

"Hilo,  Hawaii,  1845. 

"  Dear  Mrs.  Judd  : — You  may  be  sure  I  watch  with  the  deep- 
est interest  the  experiment  of  training  daughters  to  womanhood 
in  these  islands.  May  the  Lord  prosper  you  in  your  interesting 
and  arduous  work,  and  may  your  daughters  grow  up  to  be  mod- 
els of  simplicity  and  female  excellence. 

"  Home,  though  it  may  be  an  imperfect  one,  is  the  heaven- 
appointed  nursery.  Science  may  be  required  in  adult  years; 
but  the  spells  of  home  must  be  bound  in  childhood,  if  ever.  The 


156  Honolulu. 


men  of  God  which  we  hope  our  sons  may  become,  can  not,  in 
my  opinion,  be  perfected  without  their  feeling  during  life  strong 
and  indelible  impressions  of  the  sweets  and  joys  of  home. 

"  Do  you  not  think  that  married  ladies,  mothers  especially,  in 
the  multitude  of  their  cares,  are  apt  to  lose  sight  of  that  con- 
stant improvement,  that  completeness  of  character  to  which  we 
may  attain?  We  have  little  time  to  ourselves;  our  spirits  are 
often  jaded ;  our  bodies  are  weary ;  we  are  discouraged  and  be- 
lieve what  we  have  often  been  told,  that  the  cares  of  a  family 
leave  no  time  or  strength  for  intellectual  effort.  I  do  not  mean 
that  we  are  to  attempt  to  become  great  scholars.  We  can  get 
along  very  well  without  a  vast  deal  of  learning,  but  not  so  well 
without  a  good  deal  of  knowledge. 

"  Some  of  that  knowledge  must  come  from  books  ;  some  must 
be  the  result  of  our  own  observation  and  reflections.  All  should 
tend  to  make  us  better,  more  like  our  blessed  Pattern,  who  was 
no  more  complete  in  holiness  than  in  every  other  part  of  His 
character. 

"  My  thoughts  are  running  more  than  usual  in  this  channel  of 
late,  for  I  fear  that  the  ladies  of  the  islands  generally  are  lower- 
ing instead  of  raising  the  standard.  I  think  of  you  only  as  in 
turmoil,  and  yet  trust,  that  like  Greatheart,  you  can  fight  all 
your  battles  and  still  have  many  hours  of  calm  reflection  and 
joyful  looking  forward  to  the  land  where  the  weary  are  at  rest. 

"  My  constant  prayer  is  that  this  nation  may  live  before  God, 
and  that  those  who  I  am  confident  are  endeavoring  to  pro- 
mote its  best  interests,  may  have  wisdom  and  grace  to  do  just 
right."  .... 

"  You  know  that  the  foreigners  here  have  formed  a  *  Total  Ab- 
stinence Society.'  I  want  some  songs  for  them.  You  will  do  me 
a  great  favor  by  sending  such  as  come  in  your  way,  particularly 
the  one  that  Mrs.  Calkin  played  at  your  house,  the  chorus  of 
which  began — 

4  Oh,  then,  resign  your  ruby  wine.' 

I  apply  to  you  because  I  know  you  are  interestedjn  the  cause, 

and  because  your  daughters  can  come  to  your  aid 

"  I  could  fill  my  sheet  on  that  expression  of  yours,  that  you  are 
determined  to  be  happy.  There  is  no  reason  why  you  should  not 
be.  We  may  all  be  happy.  We  ought  to  be.  I  can  not  under- 
stand why  there  is  so  much  restlessness,  peevishness,  feverish 


Letter  from  Mrs.   Coan.  157 


anxiety,  imbecility,  and  premature  decay  among  Christians.  It 
would  seem  that  they  should  renew  their  strength,  mount  up  as 
on  eagles'  wings  ;  their  path  growing  brighter,  their  hopes  higher, 
as  they  near  the  goal.  Alas !  we  often  find  the  reverse  to  be 
true.  Where  this  is  the  case,  there  must  be  something  wrong. 
....  Perhaps  physical  laws  have  been  disregarded,  and  health 
and  strength  sought  in  ignoble  relaxation,  when  it  should  be 
sought  in  action.  Then  follow  all  the  evils  of  Pandora's  box 
without  even  hope  at  the  bottom. 

"  We  had  heard  repeatedly,  and  we  hoped  correctly,  that  you 
were  coming  to  Hawaii.  It  would  do  you  all  good,  and  cool  the 
fever  of  your  mind,  and  I  have  no  doubt  would  enable  your  good 
husband  to  digest  something  better  than  '  mush  and  milk  and 
Government  papers.'  Believe  me,  he  will  not  live  long  on  such 
diet;  not  that  mush  and  milk  is  not  sufficient  to  sustain  the 
body,  but  a  physical  and  mental  condition  which  renders  such 
rigid  diet  necessary,  can  not  long  be  endured.  This  is  my  opin- 
ion,— I  do  not  ask  anything  for  it  I  .  .  .  . 

"You  inquire,  '  Ought  I  to  forgive for  those  expressions 

made  before  the  church  ? '  By  all  means.  First,  because  it  is 
no  uncommon  thing  for  anathemas  on  other  men's  labors  to 
come  from  that  quarter.  And  second,  because  ill-natured  criti- 
cisms are  soonest  put  down  by  disregarding  them.  Public  men 
are  public  marks,  but  don't  mind  the  missiles  !  Do  the  best  you 
can,  and  then,  in  any  event,  you  can  fall  back  upon  rectitude  of 
intention,  which  will  be  worth  more  than  the  applause  of  the 
whole  world. 

"  It  is  truly  distressing  that  what  there  is  of  mental  and  moral 
energy  in  the  nation  must  be  expended  in  political  strife,  instead 
of  civil  improvement.  I  trust  it  will  not  always  be  so.  We 
ardently  wish  to  see  every  friend  of  the  cause  about  his  appro- 
priate work ;  giving  his  time,  his  thoughts,  and  all  his  energies 
to  the  interests  of  the  people.  The  people  must  be  exalted, 
or  the  Government  is  built  upon  a  foundation  of  sand. 

"  Yours,  etc.,  F.  C." 

Letter  from  Dr.  Judd  : 

"  Honolulu,  March  31,  1845. 
"  Dear  Father  and  Mother  : — It  is  the  anniversary  of  our 
landing  on  these  far-off  shores,  seventeen  years  ago.     You  will 


158  Honolulu. 


expect  a  letter,  though  with  me  writing  has  become  very  difficult, 
owing  to  the  entire  loss  of  the  sight  of  one  eye.  This  affection 
commenced  with  dimness  and  giddiness  of  the  head,  ringing  in 

my  ears,  and  coldness  of  the  extremities I   have  been 

obliged  to  resign  my  office  as  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign 
Affairs,  and  turn  my  attention  to  business  which  requires  more 
bodily  exercise.  This  would  be  a  great  trial  to  me,  so  great  is 
my  attachment  to  the  nation  I  serve,  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that 
I  am  enabled  to  resign  to  a  man  better  qualified  than  I  am  to  fill 
the  important  office. 

"  I  have  the  general  oversight  of  that  department,  and  all  the 
other  offices  of  Government,  as  the  king  and  chiefs  look  to  me  as 
the  responsible  man.  I  continue  to  enjoy  His  Majesty's  implicit 
confidence,  and  can  not  be  exempted  from  care  and  responsibility 
if  I  would.  If  I  could  see  the  affairs  of  this  nation  prospering, 
I  would  prefer  to  retire  and  lead  a  more  quiet  life.  God,  who 
has  directed,  will  continue  to  direct.  Be  it  mine  to  follow  His 
will.  Your  affectionate  son,  G.  P.  J." 


XXXIV. 

Mr.  Wy lire's  Report  for  1844— Arrival  of 'Admiral 
Hamelin — The  $20,000  Returned — Entertainments 
— New  Treaties— Statistics — Native  Girls — His- 
tory of  Kaili—A  Pattern  Life. 

EXTRACT  from   Mr.  Wyllie's  first   report  to  the 
Hawaiian  Legislature: 

"Honolulu,  May  21,  1845. 

"  His  Majesty  the  King,  in  the  exercise  of  those  powers  secured 
to  him  by  the  Constitution,  and  of  those  inherited  from  his  an- 
cestors, not  abrogated  by  that  instrument,  deemed  it  expedient 
for  the  good  of  his  kingdom  to  create  the  office  of  Secretary  of 
State  for  Foreign  Affairs,  and  appointed  to  fill  that  office  G.  P. 
Judd,  Esq.,  on  the  4th  of  May,  1843.  Mr.  Judd  had  previously 
served  His  Majesty  as  Interpreter,  and  Recorder,  and  as  his 
deputy  in  the  commission  (British)  which  administered  the  gov- 
ernment of  these  Islands  from  the  25th  of  February  to  the  31st 
of  July,  1843. 

"After  his  appointment  as  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign 
Affairs,  he  had  to  perform  the  duties  of  the  Treasury  Board,  and 
exercise  many  functions  belonging  to  a  Minister  of  the  Interior. 
His  eyesight  having  become  impaired,  and  his  general  health 
broken  down,  under  the  anxiety  and  labor  of  these  accumulated 
trusts,  he  resigned  the  seals  of  the  Foreign  Office  into  the  hands 
of  His  Majesty  on  the  26th  day  of  March,  1845. 

"  Under  these  circumstances  His  Majesty  was  graciously 
pleased  to  accept  the  seals  and  transfer  them  to  the  undersigned, 
but  retaining  Mr.  Judd  as  head  of  the  Cabinet  and  Minister  of 
the  Interior. 

"  When  he  took  the  office,  on  the  28th  of  March,  the  sover- 
eignty of  the  Islands  was  held  in  pledge.  When  he  left  it  that 
sovereignty  was  acknowledged  by  the  United  States,  Great  Brit- 

(159) 


160  Honolulu. 


ain,  France,  and  Belgium.  The  share  which  the  policy  of  Mr. 
Judd  had  in  producing  these  grand  results,  under  circumstances 
which  appeared  to  bar  their  possibility,  will  best  appear  from  the 
report  of  Rev.  William  Richards,  one  of  the  surviving  commis- 
sioners." 

March  22,  1846,  the  French  frigate  Virginie,  bearing 
the  flag  of  Rear-Admiral  Hamelin,  anchored  in  the  port 
of  Honolulu. 

The  admiral  took  the  occasion  at  once  to  arrange  for 
the  return  of  the  twenty  thousand  dollars  which  had 
been  delivered  to  Captain  La  Place  on  the  13th  of  July, 
1839.  The  money  was  brought  on  shore  on  the  23d,  in 
the  original  boxes,  and  under  the  same  seals  which  had 
been  affixed  when  delivered  to  La  Place. 

"  Nothing  could  exceed  the  perfect  good  taste  and  propriety 
of  manner  with  which  the  Rear- Admiral  arranged  the  delicate 
affair. 

"The  admiral  was  very  affable  and  expressed  himself  much 
pleased  with  the  apparent 'harmony  existing  between  French 
subjects  and  the  Hawaiian  Government,  through  the  medium  of 
the  French  Consul,  J.  Dudoit,  E§q. 

"  Mrs.  Dudoit  gave  an  elegant  entertainment  in  the  evening. 
Their  Majesties  the  king  and  queen  were  present,  and  the  young 
chiefs.  The  fine  band  from  the  Virginie  was  in  attendance, 
and  everybody  was  in  good  humor.  This  expression  of  confi- 
dence from  the  French  Government  was  worth  more  than  twenty 
thousand  dollars. 

"  On  the  28th  the  king  was  received  on  board  the  frigate  with 
the  honors  of  manned  yards,  royal  salute,  and  the  band  playing 
*  God  save  the  King.'  After  examining  every  part  of  the  ship, 
they  sat  down  to  a  collation,  from  which  wine  was  excluded,  in 
compliment  to  the  temperance  principles  of  the  royal  guest. 
The  king  took  the  occasion  to  drink  (in  cold  water)  the  health 
of  their  Majesties  the  king  and  queen  of  France,  to  which  the 
admiral  responded  by  the  same  honor  to  the  king  and  queen  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands, 


Lights  and  Shadows.  161 

"  On  the  26th  the  new  treaties  were  concluded,  after  an  ami 
cable  verbal  discussion  of  four  hours.  Were  foreign  Govern- 
ments and  their  representatives  always  just  and  philanthropic, 
how  many  of  the  difficulties  within  the  last  two  years  might 
have  been  avoided." 

"The  statistics  of  1846  show  a  great  and  increasing  amount  of 
foreign  property  afloat  in  our  ports.  The  number  of  seamen  and 
strangers  visiting  the  kingdom  during  the  year  was  not  less  than 
thirty  thousand,  and  of  vessels  six  hundred  ! 

"  We  are  informed  that  the  population  of  the  island  of  Molo- 
kai  is  on  the  increase,  contrary  to  the  reports  from  all  the  other 
islands  of  the  group.  The  report  gives  one  hundred  and  fifty 
baptisms  and  only  twenty  deaths ! 

"  There  is  a  strong  public  sentiment  on  the  island  to  prevent 
children  from  leaving  home,  yet  figures  show  that  at  least  one 
hundred  and  fifty  girls  have  been  enticed  away  to  Lahaina  and 
Honolula.  Legislative  and  parental  authority  on  this  subject 
are  both  required,  and  yet,  sad  to  say,  parents  can  be  found  who 
barter  away  their  daughters  for  infamous  purposes ! 

"  A  physician  was  called  to  a  poor  young  creature  the  other 
day  in  our  village  in  a  dying  condition.  On  inquiry,  it  was  found 
she  had  been  sold  by  her  mother  to  a  traveling  stranger  for  sixty 
dollars.  The  brutish  mother  took  the  money  and  forsook  her 
child,  who  after  a  few  months  was  again  deserted,  destitute,  sick, 
and  dying.     Would  to  Heaven  this  were  a  rare  case ! 

"  Molokai  has  no  harbor  for  ships,  and  is  free  from  the  corrupt- 
ing influences  which  commerce,  with  all  its  blessings,  is  sure  to 
leave  in  its  train  among  such  a  people.  As  an  offset  to  this 
dark  side  of  the  moral  picture,  is  the  following  obituary  of  Kaili, 
which,  though  written  by  her  husband,  a  foreigner,  is,  I  believe, 
perfectly  truthful : 

"  '  I  became  acquainted  with  her  in  the  early  part  of  1843,  when 
she  was  but  a  little  girl.  (She  was  born  June  17,  1832).  In  an 
attempt  to  talk  with  her,  she  gave  me  to  understand  she  was  a 
church -member.  With  my  then  imperfect  knowledge  of  the 
language  and  prejudged  opinion  of  the  people,  I  supposed  that 
but  a  cloak,  a  desecrated  garment  to  cover  iniquity.  But  she  soon 
convinced  me  she  was  not  to  be  trifled  with — and  with  a  tone 


1 62  Honolulu. 


of  voice  and  expression  of  countenance  I  shall  not  soon  forget 
I  have  ever  since  respected  such  professions.  Our  acquaintance 
continued  for  three  years,  when  we  were  married.     Through  this 

period  I  never  saw  or  heard  aught  to  spot  her  character 

Since  then  I  have  known  every  secret  of  her  heart,  and  a  better 
one,  it  seems  to  me,  impossible.  She  made  me  secretly  ashamed 
of  my  own,  and  I  wondered  how  a  human  one  could  be  so  single 
and  so  pure. 

"  '  Religion,  or  a  sense  of  her  relation  to  her  Maker,  as  taught 
in  the  Scriptures,  was  the  prominent  feeling  in  her  heart.  This 
I  know ;  for  never  a  day  passed  while  we  lived  together  without 
unequivocal  manifestation  of  it.  All  her  actions  confirmed  it. 
She  never  boasted  of  her  piety — far  from  it.  She  always  felt 
herself  to  be  unworthy.  This  religious  consistency  told  wonder- 
fully upon  me.  From  admiring  it  alone,  I  came  to  love  it  and 
sincerely  desire  it. 

" '  This  quality,  coupled  with  great  natural  endowments,  ac- 
quired that  ascendency  over  me,  and  all  of  us,  which  she  justly 
deserved  ;  and,  in  fact,  she  became  the  head,  and  her  advice  was 
sought  in  everything  of  importance,  and  we  always  thought  our- 
selves bettered  when  we  followed  it.  She  was  always  right.  In 
abilities,  from  circumstances,  I  was  her  superior ;  but  in  moral 
integrity  and  all  that  was  good,  she  was  immeasurably  above  me. 

"  '  Nothing  could  persuade  her  into  evil.  She  was  firm  as  a 
rock.  Her  unqualified  exemption  from  all  bad  habits,  so  preva- 
lent among  her  people,  was  truly  remarkable.  She  never  used 
tobacco,  nor  gave  her  consent  to  its  use  in  the  house.  In  fact, 
she  persuaded  me  from  its  use,  as  she  did  from  other  vicious  and 
idle  habits,  which  a  single  and  careless  man  is  apt  to  contract. 

" '  She  never  went  into  the  street  to  see  people  pass ;  never 
romped  or  went  to  festivals,  other  than  religious  ones  or  school 
celebrations.  I  never  heard  her  chant  a  native  song,  or  chatter 
nonsense  or  gossip  with  her  people.  She  detested  gewgaws  and 
finery,  and  would  never  consent  to  my  getting  for  her  more  than 
decency  required.  Shortly  after  the  birth  of  her  child,  I  tried 
to  persuade  her  to  wear  jewelry,  telling  her  I  was  proud  of  her 
and  would  purchase  such  as  she  wished,  as  she  had  well  earned 
it.  She  replied  that  God  had  sent  her  a  jewel  that  pleased  her 
more  than  all  the  trifles  (mea  lapuwale)  that  I  could  purchase. 


A    Young  Matron.  163 

This  reminded  me  of  Cornelia,  and  I  told  her  the  story.  Her 
admiration  was  unbounded,  and  I  could  get  no  rest  until  1  told 
her  more  of  those  noble  Roman  matrons. 

"  '  Such  was  the  vein  of  her  mind  she  loved  conversation,  when 
the  topic  was  a  noble  one ;  if  not,  she  listened  with  impatience. 
She  loved  her  people  and  deplored  their  condition.  She  looked 
back  with  peculiar  horror  on  the  degradation  of  her  ancestors, 
and  forever  wondered  that  the  present  generation  did  not  more 
generally  take  advantage  of  the  terms  now  offered  them. 

"  '  She  could  never  excuse  any  one  for  licentiousness  or  wick- 
edness of  any  kind  on  the  plea  of  ignorance ;  her  reason  being  a 
simple  and  forcible  one,  viz :  there  was  not  a  Hawaiian  but  had 
had  the  same  advantages  of  education  with  herself,  and  that  she 
always  knew  better. 

" '  I  was  absent  when  she  died ;  but  her  mother  tells  me  she 
gathered  to  her  all  her  beauties  in  her  death,  and  passed  away 
without  a  struggle.' " 


XXXV. 

Remove  to  a  New  House — The  Bridgtt  Gone— Going 
to  Church — Nuuanu  Road — A  Grand  Celebration, 
July  31 — Eatables — The  New  Commissioner — The 
Ne7v  United  States  Consul— King's  Address — Mr. 
Brinsmade  returned— More  Trouble — The  Arbi- 
tration— Mr.  Richards  Sick — Mr.  Ricord  resigns 
— Judge  Lee — Changes  among  the  Missionaries — 
New  Buildings  and  Old  Ones—  Embarrassments — 
Death  of  Mr.  Richards — Funeral. 

Nuuanu  Valley,  1847. 

ONE  earnest  wish  of  my  heart  is  gratified.  We 
have  a  quiet  home  of  our  own  in  this  lovely  val- 
ley. I  have  felt  for  the  last  two  years  that  one 
of  two  things  must  be  done :  my  husband  must  allow 
me  to  take  the  children  to  the  United  States,  where  they 
could  be  educated,  or  I  must  have  a  more  retired  home 
for  them.  So  much  anxiety  and  so  much  company  unfit 
me  for  maternal  duty. 

Our  house  is  located  on  the  first  hill  after  crossing  the 
Nuuanu  stream,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
town,  extending  from  the  Mission  premises  on  the  left 
to  Barber's  Point  and  Waianae  mountains  on  the  right. 
The  rooms  are  smaller  and  less  elegant  than  those  we 
have  occupied  the  last  four  years,  but  there  is  an  air  of 
home  comfort  and  convenience  that  pleases  me.  The 
house  has  a  chimney  and  a  kitchen  within,  which  is  an 
anomaly  in  Hawaiian  architecture. 

We  had  been  collecting  the  materials  for  two  years,  a 
little  here  and  a  little  there,  as  we  could  command  the 
means  of  payment.  The  'doors,  floors,  and  gates  were 
(164) 


Our   Valley  Home.  165 


made  in  Copenhagen  and  sent  out  for  sale,  and  my  hus- 
band purchased  them  at  auction  for  much  less  than  we 
could  get  them  made.  The  windows,  glazed,  and  blinds 
already  painted  were  sent  out  from  Boston. 

I  have  a  woolen  carpet,  and  walls  papered  in  our  par- 
lor, which  I  fancied,  when  completed,  would  remind  me 
of  one  in  a  far-off  land.  But,  alas  for  my  fancied  pict- 
ure !  The  damp  from  the  coral  stones,  of  which  the  walls 
are  made,  has  defaced  and  spoiled  the  pretty  paper,  and 
it  must  all  come  off. 

In  a  few  days  after  our  removal  there  was  a  heavy  rain* 
fall,  and  the  torrents  from  the  hill-sides  rushed  together, 
so  that  the  little  modest  stream  that  I  used  to  cross  on 
the  stones  in  search  of  stray  scholars  was  turned  into  a 
muddy,  turbulent  river,  which  rushed  down  to  the  sea 
with  such  violence  as  to  sweep  away  all  the  bridges  in 
its  course.  This  is  a  serious  inconvenience  to  the  fam- 
ilies that  live  in  the  valley,  but  will  lead  to  the  erection 
of  substantial  stone  bridges. 

We  find  plenty  of  pleasant  work  in  putting  the  grounds 
in  order  around  our  new  home.  As  the  lot  has  been 
used  for  a  banana  field,  it  is  full  of  dried  stock,  with 
mustard-trees  and  thistles. 

We  still  attend  the  services  at  the  stone  church,  and 
the  English  service  at  the  Bethel,  though  it  is  a  mile  and 
a  half  away.  The  children  walk,  but  I  have  a  little  wagon 
with  low  wheels,  made  here,  and  my  husband  has  pur- 
chased the  donkey  which  Mr.  C trained.     Sometimes 

he  goes  very  well,  but  he  has  a  habit  of  turning  into  his 
old  haunts ;  and  r  am  obliged  to  wait  before  a  hotel  or 
store  his  donkeyship's  pleasure,  and  then  he  very  quietly 
resumes  his  accustomed  pace.  A  horse  is  in  the  training 
process,  which  I  hope  to  have  the  courage  to  drive,  but 
that  narrow  escape  in  1843  made  a  great  coward  of  me. 


1 66  Honolulu. 


The  Nuuanu  road  is  extended  to  the  Pali,  starting 
from  the  premises  of  Ladd  &  Co.,  and  is  in  good  repair. 
The  king  has  a  retreat  built  near  the  cascade,  and  adjoin- 
ing that  disputed  lot  given  by  the  old  Governor  of  Kauai 
to  Captain  Hinkley,  and  sold  by  him  to  Mr.  Pelly,  an 
Englishman,  who  claimed  it  in  fee  simple,  ignoring  the 
native  custom  of  resuming  such  gifts  at  pleasure.  ■ 

This  year  the  king  said  he  would  have  a  celebration 
on  the  31st  of  July,  worthy  of  the  event  it  commemo- 
rated, and  fulfill  the  doctof's  dream  in  Lord  George's 
time,  viz :  the  kingdom  restored,  and  all  the  road  to  the 
Pali  filled  with  a  procession  bearing  little  Hawaiian 
flags. 

You  never  saw  such  a  company  of  equestrians  in  all 
your  life.  Men  were  stationed  in  different  places  to 
count  them  as  they  passed."  There  were  nearly  four 
thousand,  and  ever  so  many  carriages  and  multitudes  on 
foot. 

The  king  and  queen  rode  for  the  first  time  in  the  car- 
riage which  he  lately  purchased  of  Pomare,  Queen  of 
Tahiti.  It  was  presented  to  her  by  Queen  Victoria,  but 
since  her  kingdom  is  despoiled  by  the  French,  she  felt 
herself  too  poor  to  keep  it,  and  sent  it  up  here  for  sale. 
It  was  drawn  on  this  grand  occasion  by  four  gray  horses 
gaily  caparisoned. 

The  feast  of  the  natives  was  prepared  by  the  Governor 
and  Paki,  and  was  spread  on  the  ground  in  the  grove  of 
koa  trees,  three  miles  and  over  from  the  town.  There 
were  271  pigs  baked,  500  calabashes  of  poi,  600  fowls, 
three  oxen,  two  barrels  of  salt  pork 'cooked  with  taro 
leaves  (luau),  two  barrels  of  bread,  5,000  fishes,  ten  barrels 
of  potatoes,  fifty-five  ducks,  eighty  turkeys,  4,000  roots  of 
taro  (kalo),  eighteen  bunches  of  bananas,  fifty  pine-apples, 
with  cabbage,  onions,  cocoanuts,  etc.,  sufficient  to  feed 


A   Great  Feast.  167 

twelve  thousand  native  guests.  There  was  also  a  table 
in  the  king's  cottage  for  all  the  foreign  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, spread  with  every  luxury,  native  and  foreign,  in- 
eluding  hot  tea  and  coffee. 

With  such  a  host  on  foot,  on  horseback,  and  in  car- 
riages, there  was  no  rudeness,  no  confusion,  nor  a  single 
accident  in  going  or  returning.  This  is  certainly  very 
remarkable,  and  must  be  put  to  the  credit  of  the  strict 
temperance  principles  which  were  observed  throughout. 
If  there  was  one  drop  of  strong  drink  on  the  ground,  it 
was  smuggled  there. 

In  the  evening  there  were  religious  services  at  the 
king's  chapel — a  sermon  and  several  addresses,  with  fine 
singing  by  the  Johnson  brothers  and  Mr.  J.  F.  B.  Mar- 
shall. The  king  and  chiefs,  officers  of  Government, 
many  foreigners,  and  crowds  of  natives  attended. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  new  American  Commissioner, 
Mr.  Ten  Eyck,  and  family,  Mr.  Brown  took  leave  of  us. 
He  sailed  for  home  via  China,  and  there  is  every  reason 
to  fear  that  the  vessel  went  down  in  a  typhoon,  as  noth* 
ing  is  yet  heard  of  it. 

Our  intercourse  with  Mrs.  Ten  Eyck  was  very  pleasant 
the  short  period  she  remained  among  us,  but  too  soon 
"  she  faded  away."  The  American  Consul,  Judge  Turril, 
and  his  wife  are  a  great  acquisition.  The  judge  is  a  gen- 
tleman of  the  old  school,  rather  taciturn,  but  a  peace- 
maker and  an  inflexible  friend.  They  have  an  interest- 
ing family,  which  is  a  bond  of  sympathy  between  us. 
Mrs.  Turril  is  an  embodiment  of  female  excellence,  dis- 
creet, reliable,  and  lady-like. 

Mr.  Brinsmade  returned,  as  you  know,  without  success 
in  his  Belgian  scheme.  He  called  on  us  and  appeared 
very  kind,  but  was  not  long  in  discovering  the  hostile 
attitude  which  many  prominent  men  in  the  community 


1 68  Honolulu. 


had  taken  against  the  Government ;  and  he  concluded  to 
make  a  bold  move,  as  it  was  "  neck  or  nothing "  with 
him  now.  He  accordingly  pounced  upon  the  Govern- 
ment for  the  non-fulfillment  of  the  contract,  and  sued  for 
hypothetical  damages  to  the  modest  amount  of  $300,000. 

There  was  some  difference  of  opinion  in  the  cabinet. 
Mr.  Richards  had  signed  the  contract  and  felt  implicated, 
and  was  inclined  to  favor  them,  and  assume  their  liabili- 
ties, and  take  their  property — including  the  sugar 
plantation  on  Kauai — continuing  it  in  operation  at  Gov- 
ernment expense.  This  measure  was  stoutly  opposed 
by  others  in  the  cabinet,  who  argued  that  the  debts  were 
heavy,  and  that  the  plantation  would  sink  money  every 
year. 

Arbitrators  were  chosen,  and  the  case  submitted  to 
them.  There  was  a  great  deal  said  by  both  parties,  and 
time  enough  consumed  to  have  made  a  little  fortune,  but 
breath,  time,  and  money  were  expended  to  little  purpose, 
except  to  widen  the  breach.  The  arbitration  produced 
no  beneficial  results,  and  ended  in  the  entire  alienation 
of  old  and  long-cherished  friendships.  This  was  very 
painful  to  some  of  the  families. 

My  husband,  you  know,  never  inquires  what  course 
will  secure  most  friends,  or  the  greatest  amount  of  pop- 
ularity, but  only  what  is  most  conducive  to  the  king's 
interest  and  the  nation's  good.  He  did  try  every  hon- 
orable way  to  compromise  and  settle  the  matter  amicably, 
but  with  no  success.  There  was  no  alternative  but  to 
fight  it  through. 

Mr.  Richards'  health  suddenly  gave  way  in  the  midst 
of  the  contest.  A  partial  paralysis  of  the  brain  soon  laid 
him  aside. 

Mr.  Ricord  resigned  and  has  gone  to  a  more  inviting 
field  for  his  enterprising  talents  in  California.     We  were 


Judge  Lees  Arrival.  i6g 

sorry  to  lose  his  services,  for  he  has  labored  faithfully,  if 
not  always  judiciously,  for  the  Government  three  years; 
and  to  him  must  be  awarded  the  laurels  of  the  first  vic- 
tories achieved  in  the  contest  for  the  supremacy  of 
Hawaiian  laws,  extended  equally  over  foreigners  and  na- 
tive-born subjects.  His  successor,  William  Lee,  Esq.,  will 
have  the  advantage  of  entering  the  arena  cleared  of  some 
of  its  first  giant  foes.  Mr.  Ricord  possesses  brilliant  tal- 
ents and  great  energy  of  character,  and  is  ardent  in  his 
friendships,  but  often  pains  his  best  friends  by  his  eccen- 
tricities and  impulsive  temper. 

Mr.  Lee  and  his  friend  B came  passengers  in  the 

Henry,  famous  for  making  the  longest  voyage  on  record 
around  Cape  Horn — eight  months — stopping  only  a  few 
days  at  St.  Catherine's.  These  young  men  were  bound 
for  Oregon,  and  it  required  a  good  deal  of  persuasion  to 
turn  them  from  their  purpose,  and  try  their  fortunes  in 
this  little  kingdom.  The  manners  of  Mr.  Lee  are  plain 
and  unpretending,  but  if  his  face  is  a  true  index,  he  car- 
ries an  honest  heart  in  his  bosom. 

How  many  changes  have  taken  place  during  the  seven 
years  last  past !  Messrs.  Whitney,  Knapp,  Dibble,  and 
Mrs.  Dole  have  gone  to  worship  in  that  "  upper  sanctuary." 
The  quiet  old  order  of  things  in  the  Mission  is  broken 
up.  The  pastors  are  mostly  supported  by  the  people. 
The  schools  are  sustained  by  the  Government,  with  appro- 
priations of  twenty,  thirty,  and  forty  thousand  dollars  a 
year. 

A  new  court-house,  custom-house,  market,  and  print- 
ing office,  all  of  coral  stone,  are  going  up,  and  when 
completed,  with  the  fine  private  residences  of  Captain 
Dominis,  Dr.  Wood,  Mr.  Shillaber,  and  Paki,  will  give 
quite  a  new  aspect  to  the  city. 

The  old  "  homestead  "  in  the  Mission,  where  we  spent 
8 


1 70  Honolulu. 


such  a  pleasant  seven  years  together,  continues  to  change 
occupants,  and  each  tenant  adds  to  or  subtracts  from  its 
niches  and  "  cubby  holes."  A  truthful  history  of  all  the 
metamorphoses  of  that  domicile  would  be  quite  amusing. 
Mrs.  Bingham's  old  suite  of  rooms  is  much  changed.  The 
partitions  are  moved,  a  new  window  here  and  a  door 
there,  with  old  ones  closed  up,  and  a  new  paper  on  the 
walls. 

The  old  school-house  remains  unaltered;  with  the 
same  marks  carved  on  the  benches,  during  the  general 
meetings  by  uneasy  children.  These  children  are  now 
young  men  and  maidens,  some  of  them  ready  to  take 
their  parents'  places  in  the  work.  Our  sons  attend  Pun- 
ahou  school,  and  the  daughters  also,  a  part  of  the  year. 
But  it  is  a  deal  of  trouble  to  provide  saddles  and  horses 
for  so  many,  and  it  is  quite  too  far  to  walk  either  in  the 
sun  or  rain.  We  have  secured  the  services  of  a  private 
teacher  for  a  few  months. 

I  never  felt  poorer,  even  when  a  missionary,  for  we 
were  obliged  to  borrow  money  to  pay  carpenters  and 
masons  who  built  our  house,  and  give  a  mortgage  on  it 
for  security.  It  is  a  miserable  feeling  to  be  in  debt,  and 
yet  we  are  supposed  by  many  people  in  this  community 
to  be  rich,  very  rich !  "  How  can  the  Minister  of  Finance 
and  Interior,  with  so  many  opportunities  to  fill  his  own 
pocket,  be  otherwise  ? "  There  is  so  little  real  honesty 
among  men,  that  that  little  is  often  suspected. 

November  7,  1847. 

Mr.  Richards,  our  associate,  friend,  and  brother,  died 
this  morning.  The  cloud  of  sorrow  that  wraps  the  widow 
and  fatherless  is  too  sacred  for  me  to  lift.  He  was  watch- 
ful and  tender  of  everything  that  pertained  to  the  inter- 
est of  his  dear  wife  and  children.    A  new  home  for  them, 


Death  of  Mr.  Richards.  1 7 1 

situated  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  grass  palace,  was 
nearly  finished,  and  they  were  looking  forward  to  a  time 
of  quiet  in  it,  after  so  many  years  of  wandering  and  sep- 
aration. "  The  Lord  seeth  not  as  man  seeth."  He  is 
gone  to  the  "  many  mansions  "  prepared  for  those  that 
love  God.  His  end  was  peace.  We  have  lost  a  beloved 
brother  and  faithful  friend,  and  the  nation  is  bereaved  of 
one  of  its  staunch  supporters.  Such  a  life  as  his  needs 
no  eulogy  from  my  feeble  pen. 

November  13. 

Our  beloved  brother  was  carried  to  the  royal  tomb 
with  military  honors  at  the  king's  request,  and  Mr.  Dole 
preached  a  sermon  at  the  stone  church. 

Dear  Miss  O has  been  with  the  afflicted  ones  dur- 
ing the  last  illness  of  Mr.  Richards.  What  a  ministering 
angel  is  that  good  woman !  The  king  will  make  com- 
fortable provision  for  Mrs.  R.  and  her  two  daughters. 


XXXVI. 


Extracts  from  Journal,  1848— Mr.  Jarves  resigns— 
Mr.  Dillon  arrives  and  Bishop  Maigret— Massacre 
0/ Dr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman  at  Oregon — Portrait  of 
Louis  Philippe Opening  of  the  Legislature— In- 
temperance and  Temperance — Report  of  Minister 
of  the  Interior — Hamburg  Treaty — Louis  Philippe 
Dethroned— Gold  in  California—A.  B.  Bates  and 

Family  arrived— Reminiscences Trouble  Ahead 

—  The  Measles — The  Land  Commission — Committee 
to  Divide  the  Lands — Mr.  Armstrong — The  Young 
Princes. 


JANUARY  8,  1848.— Treaty  concluded  between  Ham- 
burg and  the  Hawaiian  kingdom.     Mr.  Wyllie  and  E. 
A.  Suerkrap  were  negotiators. 

January  22. — Mr.  J.  J.  Jarves,  for  five  years  the  able 
editor  of  the  Polynesian,  and  director  of  the  Government 
press,  resigned  the  pen  and  scissors,  "with  his  best 
wishes  and  hearty  '  aloha.'  "  "  Friend  after  friend  de- 
parts," some  to  fatherland,  and  some  to  the  silent  land. 

February  5. — The  French  corvette  Sarcelle  arrived 
on  the  first  of  this  month  with  a  new  consul,  Monsieur 
Dillon,  lady,  two  children,  and  servants,  with  chancellor 
and  secretary.  Bishop  Maigret,  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  returned  with  them  from  Valparaiso. 

A  barque  from  Oregon  has  just  arrived,  bringing  news 
of  the  horrible  massacre  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman  and 
other  whites  by  the  Kayuse  Indians.  Suspicion  that 
Dr.  Whitman  was  administering  poison,  instead  of  medi- 
cine, to  the  victims  of  an  epidemic  disease,  had  been 
created  in  their  minds  by  ill-disposed  persons,  and 
(172) 


Louis  Philippe s  Portrait.  173 

roused  the  Indians  to  revenge.  Two  hundred  volunteers 
have  gone  in  pursuit  of  the  murderers,  and  to  rescue  thir- 
teen captive  children. 

February  15.  —  The  full-length  portrait  of  Louis 
Philippe,  the  King  of  France,  was  presented  to  Kame- 
hameha  III.  at  the  palace.  It  required  twelve  men  from 
the  Sarcelle  to  carry  it,  and  a  body  of  marines  to  guard 
it,  a  band  of  music,  and  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns ! 
The  picture,  in  a  massive  gilt  frame,  was  wrapped  in  the 
national  flag,  and  followed  by  the  wife  of  the  consul  and 
others  in  carriages;  Bishop  Maigret  and  the  Catholic 
clergy,  all  the  French  residents  in  procession,  up  one 
street  and  down  another,  to  magnify  the  occasion. 

On  ^arriving  at  the  palace  gate,  the  Hawaiian  guards 
extended  on  both  sides  of  the  avenue,  from  the  gate  to 
the  palace  steps.  Another  salute  was  fired  from  Punch- 
bowl. The  king,  queen,  young  chiefs  from  the  royal 
school,  Government  officers,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  stood 
on  the  steps  to  receive  the  portrait.  Paki,  Lord  Cham- 
berlain, with  a  few  men  to  assist,  succeeded  at  last  in 
getting  it  safely  into  the  reception-room,  where  it  is  to 
remain. 

The  French  consul  made  a  fine  speech,  with  the  usual 
amount  of  compliments  on  such  occasions,  and  His 
Hawaiian  Majesty  made  a  'neat'  reply,  which  he  had  in 
his  pocket,  written  for  him  by  the  Minister  of  Foreign 
Relations.  This  is  the  custom  in  other  countries,  but 
our  king's  own  speeches  are  a  thousand  times  better 
than  those  prepared  for  him,  because  he  does  not  blunder 
in  reading  them,  and  they  are  more  natural  and  sincere. 

The  king  opened  the  palace  in  the  evening  to  receive 
calls  and  exhibit  the  portrait.  It  is  certainly  a  very  dis- 
tinguished compliment  to  our  little  court  and  kingdom 
to  receive  such  a  princely  gift. 


1 74  Honolulu. 


Madame  Dillon  is  fair  and  affable.  Monsieur  le  consul 
is  shrewd,  and  has  had  a  long  training  in  the  office  of  M. 
Guizot.  Professions  of  extreme  good  feeling  and  cor- 
diality are  ample. 

April  27 ',  1848. — The  Legislature  opened  at  the  stone 
church  with  much  less  display  than  last  year. 

The  king  was  scarcely  able  to  get  through  reading  his 
speech.  He  had  not  made  himself  familiar  with  it,  and 
it  was  too  long.  He  recommended  giving  titles  to  lands 
in  fee  simple  to  his  subjects. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  wine  has  been  intro- 
duced at  the  king's  table  at  public  dinners  of  late.  We 
know  his  love  for  stimulants  is  so  strong,  that,  if  he 
tastes  liquor  at  all,  excess  is  sure  to  follow.  It  gives  us 
much  uneasiness. 

Judge  Lee  is  a  firm  supporter  of  temperance  principles, 
and  is  president  of  the  Oahu  Temperance  Society.  He 
stated,  in  an  address  to  the  society,  that  $90,000  had 
been  expended  during  the  past  year  for  wines,  strong 
drink,  and  spirituous  liquors  by  the  residents  and  the 
sea-faring  portion  of  our  community. 

The  Minister  of  the  Interior  reports  that  five  hundred 
foreigners  have  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance  since  July, 
1843.  He  reported  also  on  the  committee  appointed  by 
the  king  in  privy  council  to  effect  an  amicable  division  of 
lands  between  His  Majesty,  the  chiefs,  and  the  konohikis. 
Under  their  management  the  division  had  been  made  in 
a  manner  highly  beneficial  to  all  concerned. 

August  1. — We  hear,  by  the  arrival  of  the  Rhone y  from 
England,  that  all  Europe  is  in  a  ferment  and  likely  to  be 
revolutionized.  Louis  Philippe  abdicated  and  fled  in  dis- 
guise on  February  last,  just  ten  days  after  we  received 


The  Gold  Fever.  175 


his  splendid  portrait  at  the  palace  of  Kamehameha  III. 
The  King  of  Prussia,  whose  portrait  likewise  adorns  the 
palace  walls,  is  a  fugitive  in  a  foreign  land.  "  Coming 
events  cast  their  shadows  before."  .... 

This  year  the  general  meeting  of  the  missionaries  was 
uncommonly  interesting.  Some  of  them  had  not  met 
for  fifteen  years  !  Mr.  Baldwin  made  a  report  of  a  school 
celebration  at  Lahaina ;  there  were  fourteen  tables,  each 
one  hundred  feet  long.  The  parents  were  the  waiters ; 
each  child  had  a  plate,  knife,  bowl,  tumbler,  and  chair. 
They  sang,  made  speeches,  etc.,  etc. 

Card  playing  is  a  growing  evil  among  the  natives. 
The  price  of  a  pack  of  cards  is  twelve  and  a  half  cents. 

October  21. —  Our  young  friend  Leleiohoku  died  of 
delirium  tremens. 

The  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  in  fabulous 
quantities,  is  reported,  and  produces  a  great  sensation 
in  our  little  realm.  Provisions  are  high  in  California. 
Sugar,  butter,  hams,  coffee,  potatoes,  sell  at  a  dollar  a 
pound  in  the  mines,  and  woolen  blankets  from  fifty  to  a 
hundred  dollars  apiece.  There  are  already  twenty-seven 
vessels  running  between  the  Islands  and  the  coast. 
Every  one  expects  to  make  his  fortune.  Old  blankets, 
cloaks,  pea-jackets,  etc.,  are  shipped  ;  our  market  is  likely 
to  be  stripped  of  eatables,  and  we  may  be  reduced  to 
fish  and  poi.  Three  hundred  persons  have  already  taken 
passports  for  the  land  of  gold,  and  still  they  go.  Croak- 
ers are  abroad,  who  say  that  our  fair  islands  are  to  be 
depopulated  and  commercially  ruined. 

June  28. — Mr.  A.  B.  Bates  and  family  have  arrived, 
and  are  now  quietly  settled  in  a  small  cottage  near  us. 
Mrs.  Bates,  my  husband's  sister,  parted  with  us  at  the 
old  homestead  in  Oneida  County  twenty-one  years  ago, 
little  dreaming  we  should  meet  again  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands. 


1 76  Honolulu. 


November  3. — It  is  twenty-one  years  since  we  left  Bos« 
ton  Harbor  in  the  little  Partliian.  It  is  pleasant  to  notice 
these  anniversaries.  The  changes  of  season,  summer  and 
winter,  make  the  year  seem  longer ;  while  here  the  dif- 
ference of  seasons  is  very  slight. 

We  have  been  going  over  the  103d  Psalm  in  the  fam- 
ily, repeating  it  at  the  breakfast-table.  The  Christian's 
experience  of  God's  goodness  is  the  same  in  all  ages.  Our 
cup  of  domestic  blessings  is  full — we  have  much  to  be 
grateful  for.  And  yet  there  are  very  great  trials  and  an- 
noyances inseparable,  perhaps,  from  our  position.  We 
are  accused  of  ambition,  self-seeking,  and  avarice,  while 
but  too  conscious  of  pecuniary  embarrassment  and  op- 
pression. It  is  easy  to  see  that  undermining  influences 
are* at  work  to  injure  my  husband,  and  weaken  his  influ- 
ence with  the  king.  He  is  a  target  for  all  parties  to 
shoot  at.  Foreigners  hold  him  responsible  for  every 
mistake  or  blunder  of  the  Government,  while  the  king, 
chiefs,  and  natives  hold  him  responsible  for  all  the  acts 
of  other  Government  officers,  including  clerks  and  em- 
ploy6s. 

Every  act  must  be  strictly  according  to  law,  Judge 
Lee  says,  while  there  are  no  laws  to  suit  the  act — or  very 
imperfect  ones. 

Foreign  officials  have  cliqued  together  and  sustain  a 
newspaper,  which  attacks  and  misconstrues  every  public 
measure,  and  heaps  abuse  and  ridicule  upon  the  Govern- 
ment and  Ministers,  not  sparing  His  Majesty  himself. 

The  king,  we  fear,  is  less  conscientious  in  his  moral 
deportment  than  he  was  formerly,  and  the  young  princes 
of  the  Royal  School  are  growing  restive  and  impatient 
to  break  their  bonds  and  act  for  themselves.  Some  of 
them  have  outgrown  the  institution.  How  can  their 
education  be  finished?     And  how  occupy  this  restless 


Imported  Epidemics.  177 


activity?  How  secure  them  from  tempters  on  every 
side,  greedy  for  their  unwary  prey  ? 

The  measles  and  whooping  cough  have  been  intro- 
duced from  California  this  fall,  and  have  spread  through- 
out the  group,  proving  fatal  in  every  tenth  case.  The 
poor  creatures  in  the  midst  of  the  fever  rush  to  the  wa- 
ter to  bathe,  which  suppresses  the  eruption  and  they  die 
suddenly.  They  are  so  improvident,  with  no  food  or 
comforts  laid  by  for  a  sick  day  ! 

The  clergymen  have  been  obliged  to  turn  their  ser- 
mons into  medical  lectures,  and  instruct  their  hearers 
how  to  manage  the  sick  and  take  care  of  their  bodies. 
I  have  been  able  to  do  little  else  for  three  weeks  than 
serve  out  rice,  sugar,  tea,  arrow-root,  bread,  and  gruel  to 
my  suffering  neighbors.  There  has  not.  been  a  death 
among  all  those  we  have  nursed  and  fed  in  this  way.  In 
the  list  of  mercies,  I  would  not  be  ungrateful  for  health. 

My  husband's  vigor  and  energy  were  greatly  benefited 
by  his  long  tour  with  the  king  around  the  different 
islands. 

A  commission  for  the  adjudication  of  land  titles  was 
formed  long  ago,  when  Mr.  Ricord  was  in  office,  Mr. 
Richards  being  president.  A  hundred  or  more  claims 
were  settled  and  patents  given.  But  now  disputes  about 
the  legal  proprietorship  of  extensive  portions  are  con- 
stantly arising.  Was  the  king  the  owner,  or  some  chief 
to  whom  he  had  given  it  in  charge,  or  the  residing  land 
agent  (konohiki)  ?  It  was  found  necessary  to  go  back 
and  begin  at  the  beginning  and  settle  these  points  first. 

After  a  great  deal  of  investigation  and  buffeting  with 
old  usages,  it  was  concluded  that  one -half  of  all  the 
lands  properly  belonged  to  the  king  and  his  chiefs,  and 
the  remainder  to  the  people,  whose  claims  should  be 
adjusted  according  to  the  laws.  Every  man  who  could 
8* 


1 78  Honolulu, 


prove  his  occupancy  of  a  land  for  a  certain  number  of 
years,  was  to  be  considered  the  rightful  owner  of  a  por- 
tion, and  could  claim  his  title  in  fee  simple. 

The  land  commissioners,  unable  to  make  a  division  of 
these  rights,  referred  the  matter  to  the  king,  who,  with 
the  chiefs,  had  been  discussing  and  considering  the  de- 
tails for  three  years  without  coming  to  a  satisfactory 
conclusion ;  but  as  the  commissioners  could  not  proceed 
without  a  division,  the  king  appointed  a  committee,  con- 
sisting of  John  Young,  G.  P.  Judd,  and  J.  Piikoi,  to  do 
the  work  without  reference  to  the  wishes  of  the  parties 
interested.  They  made  short  work.  The  name  of  every 
land  in  the  islands  was  recorded  in  a  book,  the  division 
made  and  also  recorded.  Of  course,  the  king  had  the 
lion's  share,  and  in  the  end  made  a  division  of  one-half 
of  his  share  for  the  Government. 

It  cost  a  deal  of  hard  work  to  disentangle  complicated 
claims  overlying  one  another,  as  they  have  done  from 
time  immemorial.  We  look  upon  the  measure  as  a 
great  sacrifice  on  the  part  of  the  rulers,  who,  according 
to  old  customs,  owned  it  all,  and  think  that  they  should 
have  the  full  credit  of  it,  instead  of  being  stigmatized  as 
"  land  pirates,"  as  they  were  in  a  public  address  not  long 
since.  Can  history,  past  or  present,  point  to  an  aristoc- 
racy who  have  yielded  so  much  to  the  people  in  so  short 
a  time?  This  has  not  been  brought  about  by  the  influ- 
ence of  commerce,  as  some  would  claim.  The  divine 
precept,  to  do  unto  others  as  ye  would  they  should  do 
unto  you,  has  produced  its  legitimate  fruit  in  subduing 
selfishness  and  curbing  the  natural  disposition  to  aggran- 
dize self  at  the  sacrifice  of  the  happiness  of  many. 

Friday,  December  24,  1848. — Moses  Kaikioewa,  second 
son  of  Kinau,  aged  nineteen  years  and  six  months,  died 


Personal  Changes.  179 

to-day.     He  was  educated  at  the  Royal  School,  and  was 
prospective  governor  of  the  Island  of  Kauai. 

Changes  in  our  little  kingdom  chase  each  other  like 
the  figures  and  hues  of  a  kaleidoscope. 

A  special  meeting  of  the  Mission  was  convened  in 
May  last  to  arrange  and  carry  out  the  measures  recom- 
mended by  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.  in  regard  to  their  support. 
Several  members  had  already  withdrawn  their  connec- 
tion with  the  Board,  and  one  of  the  pastors  of  a  native 
church  had  thrown  himself  upon  it  for  support.  His  ex- 
periment was  a  successful  one,  and  the  effort  of  the  na- 
tives to  sustain  their  own  minister  and  teacher  afforded 
new  incentives  to  industry,  and  called  for  the  correspond- 
ing effort. 

Rev.  R.  Armstrong  has  dissolved  his  connection  as 
pastor  of  the  first  native  church  in  Honolulu,  and  en- 
tered the  Government  service  as  Minister  of  Public  In- 
struction. Mr.  E.  O.  Hall,  secular  agent  of  the  Mis- 
sion, has  received  the  appointment  of  Director  of  the 
Government  Press.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke  have  left  the 
Royal  School  and  removed  to  the  Mission.  Mr.  J.  Ful- 
ler continues  to  teach  the  few  pupils  that  remain.  The 
princes  Lot  and  Alexander  are  removed  and  board  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bates  in  Nuuanu  Valley.  They  find  em- 
ployment a  few  hours  every  day  in  writing  at  the  Gov- 
ernment House.  They  read,  write,  and  speak  the  En- 
glish language  perfectly,  are  good  mathematicians,  and 
are  well  versed  in  geography  and  history.  With  so 
little  to  occupy  and  interest  their  inquiring  minds,  we 
fear  a  retrogression  in  mind  and  morals,  unless  some- 
thing special  can  be  devised  for  their  advancement. 

One  of  the  young  ladies  from  the  Royal  School  is 
married  to  a  lawyer,  and  keeps  house  in  a  neatly-fur- 
nished cottage  in  the  valley.  She  has  a  pretty  flower 
garden  and  a  piano. 


180  Honolulu. 

The  Female  Boarding  School  at  Wailuku  has  been 
remodeled  and  has  changed  teachers.  Day  scholars  are 
admitted.  There  is  a  vast  amount  of  talking,  writing, 
and  printing  on  the  great  subject  of  national  advancement 
and  prosperity,  both  in  and  out  of  the  Mission.  One 
great  question  is,  How  can  the  wings  of  the  destroying 
angel  be  stayed,  which  at  the  present  fearful  rate  of  rav- 
age will  exterminate  the  Hawaiian  race  in  a  few  years? 
"The  decrease  is  steady  and  silent,  as  the  falling  of 
leaves  from  old  and  decaying  trees  in  a  forest." 

A  great  number  of  young  men  go  to  sea  and  never 
return.  Several  companies  have  gone  to  the  mines, 
from  whom  we  have  good  accounts.  They  are  reported 
as  the  most  orderly  people  there,  observing  the  Sabbath 
as  a  day  of  rest,  and  are  in  the  daily  maintenance  of 
family  worship  and  reading  their  Hawaiian  Bibles  and 
newspapers. 


XXXVII. 

School   Composition — Old  Hannah — Her   Fortune- 
Extract  of  a  Letter  from  a  Prince. 

1849. 

A  COMPOSITION  written  by  one  of  Mrs.  J 's 
daughters. 

OLD   HANNAH. 

"  Old  Hannah  came  to  live  with  us  five  years  ago.  She  is 
nearly  forty  years  old,  but  can  not  tell  exactly,  as  the  natives 
reckon  by  some  event  that  took  place — not  by  the  years.  She 
says  she  was  a  little  girl  when  old  Kamehameha  1st  died;  that 
she  belonged  to  the  train  of  Queen  Kamamalu,  who  died  in 
England.  She  used  to  be  a  skillful  dancer,  and  now,  sometimes, 
when  she  is  talking  very  earnestly,  she  forgets  herself  and  steps 
off  to  the  right  and  left,  gesturing  with  her  hands,  as  if  she  were 
dancing. 

"  Kuaole,  her  husband,  is  very  stupid  about  learning  to  read, 
but  is  a  very  good  farmer.  He  takes  care  of  the  garden,  plants 
taro  and  sweet  potatoes.  Old  Hannah  orders  him  about  as  if  he 
were  her  servant,  and  he  generally  does  as  she  wishes,  though 
sometimes  he  growls  a  little. 

"  They  sleep  in  their  own  house,  a  little  distance  from  us,  but 
always  manage  to  be  here  in  season  for  a  warm  breakfast,  partic- 
ularly a  bowl  of  hot  tea  or  coffee,  of  which  they  are  very  fond. 

"  They  are  both  church-members,  and  Hannah  spends  a  great 
deal  of  her  time  in  looking  after  straying  church-members  and 
getting  people  out  to  meeting.  She  is  never  tired  of  walking 
and  talking. 

"  She  is  a  great  flatterer,  and  when  she  wants  any  particular 
favor  of  my  mother,  she  always  begins  by  telling  her  how  somebody 
had  praised  her  children,  or  said  how  young  and  good-looking 
she  was,  and  how  much  all  the  chiefs  had  always  admired  her 
looks  and  skill. 

"  She  takes  care  of  the  poultry  and  does  some  housework — is 
very  fond  of  planting  and  watering  the  flowers. 

(181) 


1 82  Honolulu. 


"  She  is  a  leader  of  the  fashions  among  her  class,  and  often 
comes  to  us  to  contrive  some  new  style  of  dress  for  them.  She 
likes  red  or  blue  basques  with  white  skirts.  When  she  sweeps 
the  house  she  always  gathers  out  every  fragment  of  silk,  ribbon, 
or  bright-colored  cloth,  and  makes  them  into  trimming  for  her 
bonnet. 

"A  few  months  ago  she  heard  of  the  death  of  her  father,  on 
Hawaii,  and  that  he  had  left  her  his  fortune.  Accordingly,  on 
the  1 8th  day  of  December,  she  bade  adieu  to  all  the  family,  with 
many  tears,  and  sailed  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  across  the 
rough  channel,  after  her  fortune. 

"We  did  not  hear  anything  from  her  till  a  week  ago,  when  her 
husband  came  in  and  said  Hannah  had  returned,  but  could  not 
come  ashore  till  we  had  sent  her  a  dress  to  wear,  as  hers  was 
worn  out.  The  dress  was  sent  and  she  soon  made  her  appear- 
ance. 

"  She  related  her  adventures  as  follows :  The  schooner  made  a 
long  passage  of  twelve  days,  when  she  landed  at  Kawaihae,  where 
the  old  temple  was  built  in  the  days  of  Kamehameha  ist,  and 
where  old  Mr.  Young  lived.  She  went  on  foot  up  to  Waimea, 
where  Mr.  Lyons  lives,  fifteen  miles.  There  she  made  a  visit,  as 
she  formerly  lived  there.  Then  she  traveled  through  the  deep 
forest  of  Mahiki,  and  down  the  great  pali  to  Hamakua,  where 
her  fortune  was.  She  obtained  it.  It  was  a  few  goats,  one  pig, 
two  ducks,  and  one  turkey. 

u  She  drove  them  a  long  distance,  but  one  goat  was  trouble- 
some, so  she  dispatched  it  (she  did  not  say  how)  ;  after  "that  the 
rest  went  along  quietly,  and  she  reached  Kawaihae,  where  they 
embarked  with  two  ducks  and  a  turkey,  leaving  the  rest  to  come 
by  the  next  vessel. 

"  The  schooner  made  a  long  voyage  down,  and  she  was  very 
sick.  She  ate  one  of  the  ducks  during  the  passage,  so  all  she 
had  to  show  for  her  trouble  and  fatigue  was  one  duck  and  one 
turkey ! " 

Extract  from  a  letter  of  one  of  the  young  princes : 

"Hawaii,  July,  1849. 

"My  dear  Friend: — I  received  your  letter  of  the  13th  the 
day  after  we  arrived  at  this  place.    We  have  been  traveling  two 


A  Hawaiian  Princes  English.  183 

or  three  days  over  nothing  but  sharp  lava  and  deep  ravines, 
sleeping  in  caves  with  nothing  but  our  ponchos  or  pea-jackets 
for  pillows,  and  a  single  blanket  for  covering,  the  weather  quite 
cold  too. 

"  We  have  come  to  this  place,  which  is  a  little  better.  We  go 
out  almost  daily  for  wild  cattle  for  subsistence.  We  live  in 
'  papais ' — little  huts  made  by  ourselves. 

"  I  am  using  the  top  of  Mr.  H 's  trunk  for  a  writing  desk, 

while  he  is  sitting  by  me  using  a  cigar-box  for  the  same  purpose. 

"  You  must  excuse  me  for  not  writing  a  longer  letter,  as  I  have 
spent  a  very  unpleasant  night,  and  do  not  feel  well  this  morn- 
ing. 

"L 's  handkerchief,  unfortunately,  I  forgot  to  give  you, 

and  I  still  have  it  with  me.  With  the  hope  that  this  will  find 
you  well  and  happy,  I  remain, 

*  Your  sincere  friend,  LlHOLlHO." 


XXXVIII. 

Journal^  1849—  Death  of Alapai- Arrival  of  Admiral 
de  Tromelin — Courtesies — A  rrival  of  the  Steamer 
Gassendi — Imperative  Demands— Destruction  of 
the  Fort  — Seizure  of  Vessels— Visit  of  Madame 
Dillon— Negotiations— The  Yacht  Carried  Off— 
My  Husband  Going  to  France. 

1849. 

ALAPAI,  wife  of  John  Young,  died  very  suddenly 
of  apoplexy.      Her  husband  is  absent  with  the 
king  on  Hawaii,  and  the  funeral  services  will  be 
delayed  until  their  return. 

A  French  ship-of-war,  with  an  admiral,  is  at  Hilo,  Dr. 
Judd  writes.  He  is  very  friendly,  and  hopes  the  diffi- 
culty between  Monsieur  Dillon,  the  consul,  and  Mr. 
Wyllie,  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  will  be  amicably 
adjusted  without  resorting  to  arms,  as  threatened. 

August  12,  1849. — The  French  frigate  La  Poursuivante, 
Admiral  de  Tromelin,  arrived  from  Hilo,  where  she  had 
been  ten  days.  The  admiral  called  on  me  with  Madame 
Dillon.  He  speaks  English  very  well,  and  is  very  affa- 
ble. He  appears  well  disposed  toward  the  Government 
and  people. 

He  has  rooms  at  Madame  Dillon's  cottage  in  the  val- 
ley, and  has  exchanged  salutes  with  the  governor  of  the 
fort. 

Sunday. — The  French  steamer  Gassendi  arrived  from 
Tahiti.     The  political  atmosphere  portends  a  storm. 

19th. — The  king  and  suite  returned,  hastened  by  the 
death  of  Mrs.  Young.  She  was  a  favorite  of  the  king, 
(184) 


The  French  Demands.  185 

being  one,  of  the  maids  of  honor  in  the  train  of  his  be- 
loved sister. 

22d. — A  dispatch  was  received  from  the  admiral, 
couched  in  very  imperative  terms,  demanding  an  imme- 
diate interview  with  the  king.  It  was  received  during 
the  funeral  obsequies  of  Mrs.  Young,  and  before  it  could 
be  replied  to  was  followed  by  another,  which  required 
the  complete  adoption  of  the  treaty  of  1846,  as  it  reads 
in  the  French  text.     The  demands  were  as  follows : 

The  reduction  of  duty  on  French  brandy.  A  rigorous 
equality  for  the  two  forms  of  Christian  worship. 

The  adoption  of  the  French  language  in  official  inter- 
course between  French  and  Hawaiians. 

Concession  and  redress  with  reference  to  customs  duties, 
and  the  return  of  a  small  fine  imposed  on  a  French  ves- 
sel, for  the  infringement  of  custom-house  regulations. 

An  official  apology  for  the  impious  conduct  of  certain 
native  pupils  of  the  High  School  at  Lahainaluna  (who 
put  their  hands  in  the  holy  water). 

Indemnity  to  the  keeper  of  the  French  hotel  for  prop- 
erty damaged  by  some  drunken  English  sailors. 

The  removal  from  office  of  the  governor  of  Hawaii, 
who  enforced  the  payment  of  taxes  by  a  person  in  the 
employ  of  a  French  priest,  on  Hawaii,  and  who  evaded 
the  policemen  by  sheltering  himself  in  the  house  of  said 
priest. 

Prompt  compliance  was  required,  or  the  admiral 
"  would  resort  to  the  means  at  his  disposal  for  coercion !  " 

Replies — calm,  reasonable,  and  dignified — from  the 
king's  cabinet,  requesting  the  admiral  to  show  cause  for  this 
extraordinary  proceeding,  were  of  no  avail.  While  the 
negotiations  were  pending,  and  before  the  king's  ulti- 
matum was  received,  a  French  force  of  sappers  and 
miners  were  landed,  who  took  possession  of  the  fort  and 


1 86  Honolulu, 


magazine,  and  French  guards  were  placed  at  the  custom* 
house  and  at  the  Government  offices.  The  king's  yacht 
and  several  vessels  belonging  to  foreigners  were  seized. 

All  the  guns  were  thrown  from  the  walls  of  the  fort  or 
spiked.  The  magazine  was  opened  and  the  powder 
poured  into  the  sea.  All  the  old  muskets,  swords,  and 
bayonets  that  could  be  found  were  broken  to  pieces,  and 
every  article  on  the  premises  destroyed,  not  sparing  the 
old  clock  on  the  walls  of  the  governor's  house.  Two 
large  camphor-wood  trunks,  containing  kahili  feathers 
and  various  articles  belonging  to  Kinau,  were  carried  on 
board  the  French  ships,  and  even  the  calabashes  were 
smashed  and  thrown  into  the  well. 

This  glorious  warfare  was  carried  on  by  the  soldiers 
of  that  most  chivalrous  nation  without  the  slightest  re- 
sistance on  the  part  of  natives  or  foreigners.  The  dam- 
ages amounted  to  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  at  a  fair 
estimate. 

While  the  French  were  doing  this  mischief,  not  to 
redress  a  national  wrong,  but  in  obedience  to  the  orders 
of  M.  Dillon,  for  personal  revenge  upon  the  minister,  the 
French  flag  was  pulled  down  at  the  consulate,  and  the 
Hawaiian  Government  held  responsible  for  damage  to 
French  property,  and  Madame's  furniture  removed  from 
her  residence  in  the  valley  a  mile  above  our  dwelling  to 
the  steamer  Gassendi. 

She  called  on  her  way  down,  as  we  had  always  been 
on  the  most  friendly  terms,  and  assured  me  of  the  most 
kindly  feelings  on  the  part  of  herself,  her  husband,  and 
the  admiral,  toward  the  king  and  all  his  cabinet,  with 
the  exception  of  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations. 
She  said  if  the  king  had  only  listened  to  the  advice  of 
her  husband  and  dismissed  the  obnoxious  minister  long 
ago,  if  he  would  listen  to  reason  and  sacrifice  him  even 


Madame  Dillon.  187 


now,  all  this  evil  might  be  averted.  But  if  he  would  not 
rid  himself  of  so  unworthy  a  person,  the  innocent  must 
suffer  with  the  guilty.  The  consul  had  flower  now,  and 
would  have  satisfaction  for  all  he  had  suffered  of  insult 
and  indignity  at  the  hands  of  the  minister.  She  offered 
protection  for  me  and  the  children  on  board  the  steam- 
er, and  assured  me  that  if  still  harsher  measures  were 
resorted  to,  great  care  would  be  taken  to  save  our 
premises. 

I  thanked  her  for  her  kind  offer,  but  replied  that  our 
interests  were  identified  with  the  Hawaiians,  and  their 
fate  must  be  ours.  I  could  see  no  just  cause  for  this 
destruction  of  property,  as  all  the  disputed  points  in  the 
treaty  of  1846  had  been  referred  to  France  for  adjudica- 
tion, and  the  other  complaints  had  been  settled  in  our 
courts  of  justice — the  only  proper  place.  I  could  not 
understand  how  her  husband,  who  had  been  trained  for 
so  many  years  in  the  political  school  of  M.  Guizot,  and 
who  had  always  professed  so  much  candor  and  sincerity, 
could  allow  himself  for  mere  private  pique  to  inflict  such 
injustice  upon  a  feeble,  peace-loving  people  and  an  inno- 
cent community. 

She  affirmed  that  her  husband  had  borne  and  suffered 
a  vast  amount  of  ill-usage  for  a  long  time  from  the  Min- 
ister of  Foreign  Relations,  that  he  had  remonstrated 
with  the  king  and  Minister  of  Finance  in  vain,  and  it 
was  no  more  than  right  for  the  king  and  cabinet  to  suffer 
for  their  obstinacy.  And  moreover,  we  should  be  very 
soon  equally  convinced  of  the  unworthiness  of  said  min- 
ister, and  that  Dr.  Judd  would  reap  the  bitter  fruit  of 
his  (Mr.  Wyllie's)  intrigue  and  malice,  and  yet  be  a  victim 
to  fall  by  the  same  hand. 

I  thanked  her  again  for  her  offer  of  French  protection 
and  kind  interest  and  friendly  warning.     I  told  her  I  had 


1 88  Honolulu. 


great  confidence  in  the  prayers  of  ten  thousand  hearts, 
which  daily  ascended  in  behalf  of  the  suffering  nation. 
That  hitherto  God,  the  righteous  Judge,  had  interposed 
to  save  in  times  of  trouble,  and  I  did  not  believe  He 
would  forsake  them  now.  I  asked  her  if  she  had  not 
heard  the  bell  ringing  with  the  earliest  break  of  day 
during  the  past  week,  to  call  the  people  up  and  down 
the  valley  together  for  special  prayer  in  behalf  of  the 
rulers,  and  assured  her  that  those  prayers  inspired  me 
with  more  confidence  than  a  hundred  line-of-battle  ships. 
And  thus  we  parted.  Madame  Dillon  took  refuge  on 
board  the  war  steamer,  and  I  remained  at  my  own  quiet 
home. 

On  the  evening  of  the  same  day  Judge  Lee  and  Dr. 
Judd  went  on  board  the  Gassendi,  with  the  king's  dis- 
patches to  the  admiral,  where  they  remained  several 
hours  endeavoring  to  negotiate  a  settlement.  The 
French  guards  were  still  at  their  station  before  the  Cus- 
tom House  and  Government  offices. 

Some  of  my  kind  neighbors  came  in  to  express  their 
sympathies,  fearing  the  commissioners  would  be  de- 
tained on  board  as  prisoners  of  war,  or  harmed  in  some 
way,  and  were  quite  surprised  to  find  me  asleep  ! 

The  Hawaiian  Government,  conscious  of  right  and 
justice  on  its  side,  and  regarding  these  hostile  proceed- 
ings as  at  variance  with  the  solemn  compact  entered  into 
by  France  and  England,  November  28,  1843,  could  not 
yield  nor  swerve  from  its  position,  let  the  consequences 
be  what  they  might.  They  could  only  protest  and  ap- 
peal to  the  honor  and  good  faith  of  France. 

The  utmost  quiet  prevails  on  shore.  It  is  suspected 
that,  in  case  of  further  hostilities,  the  American  flag  will 
be  run  up  in  place  of  the  Hawaiian,  and  that  will  com- 
mand  respect.     Consul-General  Miller  has  kindly  offered 


Coming   Troubles.  189 


protection  to  women  and  children,  and  Judge  Turril,  the 
American  consul,  is  ready  for  duty.  It  is  difficult  to 
restrain  the  tide  of  indignation  called  forth  among  all 
classes,  native  and  foreign.  They  would  most  willingly 
rush  to  arms,  but  any  resistance  would  only  afford  pre- 
text for  further  aggression. 

September  4th. — The  king's  yacht  was  manned  by 
Frenchmen  and  sent  to  sea.  We  watched  the  little 
beauty  as  she  glided  out  of  the  harbor,  with  no  benedic- 
tions on  the  heads  of  the  actors  in  these  proceedings. 

The  wrath  of  M.  Dillon  is  appeased  by  the  wreck  of 
property  he  has  caused,  and  after  exchanging  another 
billet-doux  with  the  minister,  he  has  embarked  bag  and 
baggage  for  San  Francisco  in  the  Gassendi. 

In  order  to  appreciate  the  necessity  of  this  manifesta- 
tion of  French  prowess,  one  must  know  the  magnitude 
of  French  interests  in  these  islands.  Aside  from  the 
priests  and  their  missions,  there  are  twelve  French  sub- 
jects, one  of  whom  is  a  merchant,  who  transacts  about 
one-thousandth  part  of  the  commercial  business  of  the 
place. 

September  6tk. — Dr.  Judd  returned  from  Privy  Coun- 
cil and  handed  me  the  following :  "  It  has  pleased  the 
king  to  nominate  G.  P.  Judd,  his  Minister  of  Finance,  as 
his  Majesty's  Special  Commissioner  and  Plenipotentiary 
Extraordinary  to  the  Governments  of  France,  England, 
and  the  United  States." 

September  nth. — Dr.  Judd  is  gone.  He  sailed  in  the 
schooner  Honolulu,  Captain  Newell,  bound  for  San  Fran- 
cisco, accompanied  by  the  two  princes,  Alexander  Liho- 
liho  and  Lot  Kamehameha.  The  king,  queen,  chiefs, 
and  a  large  concourse  of  natives  and  foreigners  accom- 
panied them  to  the  ship.  The  welkin  rang  with  cheers 
for  their  success  and  a  speedy  return ;  and  all  the  ships 


I90  .      Honolulu. 


manned  their  yards  to  do  them  honor.  But  what  conso- 
lation does  it  all  afford  to  wife  and  children  quite  away 
from  this  demonstration  in  their  own  distant  dwelling, 
weeping  and  watching  the  little  craft  that  bears  from 
them  the  joy  of  their  hearts,  the  light  of  their  home, 
their  stay  and  staff? 

One  cargo  of  French  merchandise  has  been  imported 
and  one  French  ship-of-war  has  visited  the  islands  during 
the  last  five  years.  French  schooners  have  occasionally 
brought  freight  for  English  and  American  merchants, 
and  there  are  a  few  whalers  in  the  Pacific  who  touch 
now  and  then  at  this  port. 

There  is  no  prejudice  against  Frenchmen  as  such,  and 
the  few  residents  among  us  express  their  unmitigated 
disapproval  of  the  late  proceedings.  Admiral  De  Tro- 
melin  is  only  to  be  blamed  for  allowing  himself  to  be 
the  tool  in  the  hands  of  the  consul,  as  did  Lord  George 
Paulet.  Both  acted  contrary  to  their  own  convictions 
of  right,  but  were  constrained  to  do  the  bidding  of  their 
respective  consuls. 

September  %th. — The  French  ships  are  all  gone.  The 
war  is  all  over,  and  we  have  visited  the  battle-ground, 
and  what  a  scene  is  presented  !  Those  famous  old  guns, 
used  only  for  the  exchange  of  friendly  and  national 
greetings,  which  Governor  Kekuanaoa  prides  himself  in 
doing  in  the  most  approved  military  style,  all  thrown  from 
their  carriages,  spiked,  and  mutilated !  The  ground 
is  covered  with  broken  muskets,  cartridge-boxes,  bay- 
onets, and  swords.  Every  window  and  door  of  the 
governor's  house  is  broken  and  battered,  and  the  walls 
are  covered  with  charcoal  sketches.  Every  box,  barrel, 
and  calabash  is  crushed  to  atoms.     "  A  glorious  victory ! " 

The  winter  of  1849  was  remarkable  for  the  amount  of 


A   Gloomy   Winter.  191 

rain  that  fell,  and  the  great  number  of  cloudy,  foggy 
days. 

Multitudes  from  California  poured  in  upon  us  for  food 
and  shelter,  from  their  own  inclement  regions ;  and  they 
were  accused  of  bringing  their  climate  with  them.  All 
the  hotels,  boarding-houses,  and  untenanted  buildings 
became  full.  Food  grew  scarce.  Prices  ran  up  exor- 
bitantly high,  and  still  the  tide  of  immigration  poured 
in.  Flour  was  thirty  dollars  per  barrel !  California  gold 
was  scattered  about  with  reckless  hands,  but  no  alche- 
mist's skill  cquld  change  it  to  bread.  Kalo,  that  nutri- 
tious, substantial  vegetable  (thanks  to  the  toil  of  the 
kanaka)  did  not  fail. 

Spring  came,  the  rain  ceased,  and  the  tide  of  humanity 
set  back  to  the  El  Dorado,  leaving  the  evil  of  high  prices 
and  increased  wages  fpr  all  kinds  of  labor,  but  binding  us 
with  the  strong  cords  of  reciprocal  interests  and  mutual 
dependence. 


XXXIX. 

Vint  of  U.  S.  Ship  "  St.  Mary's  "—A  ddress  of  Commo- 
dore Voorhies  —  The  President' 's  Message — E.  H. 
Allen,  United  States  Consul — Breakfast  at  the 
Palace — Letters  from  Dr.  Ju,dd  and  the  Princes^ 
California — The  Treaty — At  the  Irving  House — 
In  London — At  the  Foreign  Office — In  Paris — The 
British  Ambassador  —  Protracted  Negotiations — 
The  Princes  Employed— Presentation  to  Louis  Na- 
poleon—  The  Greek  A  mbassador — Due  de  Broglie — 
Guizot — Mr.  Rives — Return  to  London. 


l849-'50. 

THE  United  States  ship-of-war  St.  Marys,  Commo- 
dore Voorhies,  visited  Honolulu  in  December,  and 
brought  the  following  words  of  comfort  to  our 
desponding  sovereign : 

"  May  it  please  your  Majesty,  I  have  had  the  honor  to  be  ap- 
pointed by  my  Government  to  convey  to  your  shores  an  envoy, 
in  the  person  of  Charles  Eames,  Esq.,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
a  friendly  treaty  with  your  Majesty,  on  the  principles  of  reciproc- 
ity and  mutual  advantage.  On  my  way  hither,  Mr.  Eames  met 
at  San  Francisco  with  Dr.  Judd,  your  Majesty's  representative,  and, 
finding  him  duly  appointed  for  the  purpose,  concluded  the  treaty 
with  him  there,  of  which  treaty  I  had  the  honor  to  be  the  bearer, 
and  placed,  as  I  have  no  doubt  you  have  been  informed,  in  the 
hands  of  His  Excellency  Mr.  Wyllie,  your  Majesty's  Minister  of 
Foreign  Relations. 

"  On  the  conclusion  of  this  treaty  Mr.  Eames,  United  States 

Commissioner,  deemed  his  mission  at  an  end,  and  remained  at 

San  Francisco,  leaving  his  place  open  to  be  filled  by  a  successor, 

who  he  presumed  was  about  to  be  appointed  to  fill  the  vacancy. 

(192) 


Friendly  Messages.  193 

Otherwise  he  might  have  accompanied  me,  as  was  originally  de- 
signed. 

"I  am  most  happy  to  congratulate  your  Majesty  upon  the 
happy  arrangement  of  a  question,  which  I  trust  will  be  equally 
advantageous  to  both  nations.  The  United  States  entertain  a 
most  friendly  interest  in  the  welfare  of  these  Islands.  I  can 
not  but  feel  myself  to  be  flattered  in  having  been  charged  with 
a  matter,  by  which  I  have  it  in  my  power  to  say  to  your  Majesty, 
may  the  friendly  relations  so  long  subsisting  between  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  the  Government  of  the 
United  States  still  longer  continue,  and  without  interruption." 

This  kind  message  was  delivered  to  the  king  at  a 
special  audience  at  the  palace,  December  10,  1849. 

The  king's  commissioner  and  the  princes  arrived  in 
New  York  early  in  December,  where  they  were  most 
kindly  received  by  the  city  authorities,  and  shown  every 
possible  attention  and  hospitality.  The  polished  man- 
ners of  the  young  men  won  much  favor. 

As  Monsieur  Dillon  was  in  advance,  it  was  necessary 
to  proceed  to  Europe  without  delay.  The  treaty  with 
the  United  States  was  therefore  committed  to  our  old 
friend,  James  J.  Jarves,  Esq.,  to  finish  at  Washington. 

Extract  from  President  Taylor's  message : 

"  The  position  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  with  reference  to  the 
territory  of  the  United  States  in  the  Pacific,  the  success  of  our 
persevering  and  benevolent  citizens,  who  have  repaired  to  that 
remote  quarter,  in  Christianizing  the  natives,  and  inducing  them 
to  adopt  a  system  of  government  and  laws  suited  to  their  capac- 
ity and  wants,  and  the  use  made  by  our  numerous  whale-ships 
of  the  harbors  of  the  Islands,  as  places  of  resort  for  obtaining 
refreshments  and  repairs,  all  combine  to  render  their  destiny 
peculiarly  interesting  to  us. 

"  It  is  our  duty  to  encourage  the  authorities  of  those  Islands 
in  their  efforts  to  improve  and  elevate  the  moral  and  political 
condition  of  the  inhabitants ;  and  we  should  make  reasonable 
allowance  for  the  difficulties  inseparable  from  the  task. 
9 


1 94  Honolulu. 


"  We  desire  that  the  Islands  may  maintain  their  independence, 
and  that  other  nations  should  concur  with  us  in  this  sentiment. 
We  would  in  no  event  be  indifferent  to  their  passing  under  the 
dominion  of  another  power.  The  principal  commercial  States 
have  in  this  a  common  interest ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  no 
one  will  attempt  to  interpo  e  obstacles  to  the  entire  independence 
of  the  Islands." 

FROM  THE  JOURNAL. 

March  \oth. — The  American  Consul,  Elisha  H.  Allen, 
Esq.,  of  Maine,  arrived  with  the  treaty  signed  at  Wash- 
ington, on  the  26th  of  December,  1849. 

In  an  English  newspaper,  received  by  the  last  mail,  I 
found  the  notice  of  the  safe  arrival  of  the  young  princes 
and  Dr.  Judd  in  France,  and  of  a  conference  had  by 
Monsieur  Dillon  with  the  President  of  the  French  Re- 
public and  the  Minister  of  the  Marine  at  the  Champs 
Elysees.  The  young  princes  are  mentioned  as  every- 
where giving  evidence  of  good  manners  and  education, 
and  are  received  with  becoming  dignity  and  attention. 
This  is  very  gratifying. 

April  25,  1850. — Invited  to  breakfast  at  the  palace 
to  meet  ex-consul  Turril  and  family.  The  breakfast  was 
excellent,  and  elegantly  served  by  the  new  steward,  St. 
John.  The  porcelain  breakfast  service  and  Bohemian 
glass,  lately  received,  are  very  handsome.  The  king  was 
in  excellent  spirits,  and  Mr.  Young  is  always  cheerful. 
A  great  many  pleasant  things  were  said  by  all  parties. 
His  Majesty  remarked  that  he  would  trust  no  other  man 
but  my  husband  with  such  a  charge,  but  he  was  a  phy- 
sician and  guardian,  and  would  take  care  of  the  young 
princes,  both  soul  and  body.  Mutual  regrets  were  ex- 
pressed at  the  separation  from  Judge  Turril  and  family, 
who  have  proved  themselves  such  valuable  friends. 

The  queen's  carriage  was  in  readiness  to  convey  Mrs. 


The  Diplomatic  Journey.  195 

Turril  and  her  children  to  the  wharf,  where  they  em- 
barked for  San  Francisco. 

Extracts  from  letters  received  in  1850  from  Dr.  Judd 
and  the  princes : 

"At  Sea,  nearing  San  Francisco. 

".  .  .  .  Tuesday,  September  nth,  was  a  sad  day.  We  must 
bear  cheerfully  this  separation  which  God  has  willed,  as  I  hope 
for  the  good  of  the  nation  to  whose  service  we  devoted  our  lives 
in  1827.  God  alone  can  sustain  and  prosper  me  under  all  the 
trials  of  this  arduous  mission.  The  consciousness  of  so  many 
imploring  the  divine  blessing  upon  us,  is  a  source  from  which  I 
derive  consolation  and  courage  of  heart. 

"  The  boys  appear  well.  I  leave  them  free  to  associate  with 
whom  they  choose  on  board,  and  to  do  as  they  please,  since  I 
find  them  desirous  of  doing  their  best." 

"  San  Francisco,  October  tfh. 

"  .  .  .  .  Arrived  at  one  o'clock  yesterday.  The  steamer  for 
New  York  passed  us  in  the  fog  the  night  before  we  got  in.  Have 
met  and  shaken  hands  with  a  great  number  of  people,  Commis- 
sioner Eames  and  Commodore  Jones  among  the  number.  This 
is  a  miserable,  comfortless  place,  the  weather  cold,  damp,  and 
foggy.  Poor  lodgings,  no  fire,  and  we  pay  six  dollars  a  day  for 
each  of  us.  The  streets  are  knee  deep  in  mud,  and  thronged 
with  fierce-looking  men.  There  are  two  hundred  and  fifty  ships 
in  the  harbor. 

"  A  dentist,  who  sits  opposite  me  at  table,  says  he  charges  six- 
teen dollars  for  extracting  a  tooth,  and  sixteen  hundred  for  a  set 
of  new  ones ! 

"  Dead  bodies  are  found  almost  every  morning — perished  from 
hunger,  cold,  and  disease ;  a  bullock's  hide  and  an  empty  cask 
being  their  only  covering  and  shelter. 

"We  have  visited  the  Dolores  Mission.  The  church  is  going 
to  decay.  The  present  priest  is  said  to  be  an  Indian.  I  did  not 
see  him.  A  restaurant  and  liquor-bar  are  kept  in  one  end  of  the 
building.     Found  an  Island  acquaintance,  who  keeps  a  boarding- 


196  Honolulu. 


house.  Ordered  dinner.  Had  soup,  sardines,  boiled  beef,  cab- 
bage, and  chocolate,  for  which  we  paid  eight  dollars 

"  Met  a  man  from  Boston,  who  came  overland.  Eight  months 
on  the  road.  Lost  all  his  animals — had  the  cholera.  Two  of  his 
companions  killed  by  the  Indians.  What  suffering  in  this  rush 
for  gold !  .  .  .  . 

"  Have  been  here  three  weeks  and  have  completed  the  draft  of 
the  treaty  with  the  United  States  Commissioner,  much  to  my 
satisfaction.  Commodore  Voorhies  will  take  a  copy  to  the  Isl- 
ands. It  is  too  wordy,  but  that  is  not  my  fault.  The  Commo- 
dore promises  to  call  and  report  progress.  You  will  be  pleased 
with  him. 

"  The  California  press  comes  out  strong  in  our  favor,  and  con- 
demns the  course  of  Monsieur  Dillon.  The  latter  labored  hard 
while  here  to  impress  the  public  mind  with  the  idea  that  the 
Hawaiians  were  incapable  and  unworthy  of  independence.  He 
sailed  in  the  last  steamer  for  New  York,  leaving  his  family  here. 
We  are  off  on  the  first,  with  Captain  Budd,  formerly  in  the 
United  States  Exploring  Expedition.  Dr.  Winslow  and  Captain 
Stetson  are  fellow-passengers.     This  will  comfort  you." 

"New  York,  December  11,  1849. 

"  We  arrived  on  the  8th,  after  a  delightful  passage  of  nine 
days  from  Chagres,  stopping  at  Kingston  a  few  hours— an  old, 
moss-grown  English  town — where  we  bought  oranges  for  our 
New  York  cousins. 

u  We  are  at  the  '  Irving  House.'  Our  parlor  is  thronged  with 
company,  and  our  table  covered  with  cards  left  when  we  are  out. 
The  Mayor  paid  us  a  visit  with  all  the  honors,  and  extended  the 
hospitalities  of  this  great  city  of  Gotham  to  us.  I  am  particu- 
larly gratified  with  this,  as  you  know  Americans  generally  are 
not  very  partial  to  colored  people. 

"  We  sail  in  the  Cunard  steamer  Canada,  as  soon  as  the  tailors 
are  done  with  us." 

"  London,  Tavistock  Hotel. 

"  .  .  .  .  Here  we  are  in  this  great  metropolis  of  the  world,  a 
olace  you  have  always  desired  so  much  to  visit.     The  only  alloy 


London    Visited,  197 


to  my  happiness  is  that  I  am  here  without  you  and  the  chil- 
dren  

"We  stopped  at  Halifax  two  hours,  where  we  had  a  fine 
sleigh-ride.  It  was  a  bright  starlight  evening,  with  the  ther- 
mometer below  zero.  The  princes  enjoyed  it,  though  it  was 
very  cold.  The  passage  of  twelve  days  across  the  Atlantic  was 
rough  and  boisterous,  but  the  Canada  ploughed  her  way  at  the 
rate  of  three  hundred  miles  a  day,  with  dignified  indifference  to 
wind  and  waves.  We  got  into  Liverpool  on  the  24th,  and 
whirled  into  London  on  Christmas-day.  This  was  our  first  ride 
on  the  railway,  and  we  were  delighted  with  it. 

"  London  remains  as  it  was  when  you  last  heard  of  it,  shrouded 
in  smoke  and  fog.  Have  seen  Mr.  Barclay.  Lord  Palmerston 
is  out  of  town,  spending  the  holidays;  so  is  everybody  else. 
We  shall  proceed  to  France. 

"  The  Times  of  yesterday  announces,  on  the  authority  of  a 
Paris  correspondent,  that  the  French  papers  give  notice  of  the 

arrival  of  ■  M.  De (some  French  name),  Prime  Minister  of 

Kamehameha,  King  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  for  the  purpose  of 

arranging  the  late  difficulties.     That  the  said  M.  De had 

been  in  the  service  of  the  king  twelve  years,  and  was  originally  a 
native  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Baden  ! '  So  you  see  how  clear 
everything  is  in  France.  I  think  it  is  too  bad  that  I  must  fight 
the  battle  all  over  again  there,  where  I  can  not  speak  a  word  of 
the  language,  nor  pull  a  string,  but  all  must  be  done  by  main 
strength. 

"  We  have  visited  the  House  of  Commons,  Westminster  Hall 
and  the  Abbey,  the  Tower,  Zoological  Gardens,  the  Museum, 
and  Gallery  of  Paintings.  The  young  men  enjoy  themselves,  and 
are  in  excellent  health.     Please  report  to  the  king. 

"  The  President's  Message  has  come  to  hand,  and  adds  another 
item  to  my  hopes.  Whether  it  will  influence  France  or  not,  we 
shall  see. 

"  January  23^. — Have  had  a  good  visit  from  Admiral  Thomas, 
who  has  interested  himself  in  our  behalf,  and  obtained  a  promise 
from  Sir  George  Gray  that  I  shall  see  Lord  Palmerston  as  soon 
as  he  returns  to  town. 

"  Prince  Alexander  is  ill.     Sir  James  Clark  attends  him.  .  .  . 
Went  to  the  Foreign  Office,  by  appointment ;  was  kept  waiting 
two  hours,  as  the  Viscount  was  occupied  with  the  Belgian  Min- 


198  Honolulu. 


isl.er.  At  half-past  seven  went  up  three  flights  of  marble  steps 
into  a  room  adorned  with  fine  paintings,  where  Lord  Palmerston 
received  me  very  cordially.  I  gave  him  some  account  of  our 
affairs,  and  asked  his  advice.  He  replied  he  would  do  all  in  his 
power  to  aid  us— would  give  me  a  letter  to  the  Marquis  of  Nor- 
manby,  British  Ambassador  in  Paris.  He  could  not  perceive 
with  what  justice  the  French  had  injured  us.  Had  better  go 
and  try  France.  That  Dillon  was  a  skillful  intriguer,  and  learned 
it  in  the  Foreign  Office.  Asked  if  Englishmen  had  the  same 
privileges  as  Americans  in  the  Islands.  I  assured  him,  upon  my 
honor,  there  was  no  distinction.  That  Mr.  Wyllie  was  born  in 
England,  and  I  in  the  United  States ;  and  he  was  likely  to  favor 
Americans,  and  I,  Englishmen.  He  inquired  if  the  natives  were 
intelligent.  I  replied  they  were,  and  well  disposed.  'The  two 
princes  with  me  are  a  good  specimen.  I  shall  hope  to  introduce 
them  to  your  Lordship  on  our  return  from  Paris.' 

"  I  explained  the  treaty  and  the  noble  conduct  of  the  United 
States  Government  in  regard  to  Commissioner  Brown.  Told 
him  I  had  not  been  to  Washington,  but  came  to  England  first, 
hoping  he  would  do  everything  in  our  behalf.  I  asked  his  advice' 
about  presenting  the  treaty  first  to  France.  Left  a  copy  in  his 
hands  and  my  letter  of  credence.  I  did  not  forget  to  mention 
the  good  offices  of  General  Miller  and  his  generous  offer  to  me- 
diate and  protect  in  our  late  troubles.  He  repeated  the  assur- 
ance that  he  would  do  all  he  could  to  aid  us,  and  after  giving 
me  his  hand,  I  took  leave. 

"  Returned  to  my  hotel  and  sat  up  late  packing  for  Paris.     At 

1 1  o'clock  P.M.,  received  a  note  from  Lord  Palmerston,  with  a 
letter  of  introduction  to  the  British  Ambassador  in  Paris " 

"  Paris,  Hotel  Meurice,  January  2%th. 

"  .  .  .  .  Called  upon  the  Marquis  of  Normanby.  He  was  gone 
to  the  Foreign  Office.  Saw  the  chief  secretary,  who  took  in  my 
letter  from  Lord  Palmerston.  When  His  Excellency  returned,  his 
hands  were  full  of  papers,  among  which  I  recognized  the  Poly- 
nesian.    He  said  His  Excellency  would  see  me  on  Wednesday  at 

12  o'clock.  I  concluded  time  was  required  to  examine  the  data 
furnished  by  Lord  Palmerston." 

"  January  30/^. — Called  on  the  British  Ambassador,  who  said 


Arrival,  in  Paris.  199 


he  had  heard  Monsieur  Dillon's  course  was  not  approved,  but 
knew  nothing  officially.  Said  he  was  to  dine  with  M.  La  Hitte, 
the  French  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  that  day,  and  would  re- 
member me  and  ask  an  interview,  and  wished  me  to  state  what  I 
wanted.  I  replied,  I  wanted,  1st.  An  official  disavowal  of  the 
proceedings  of  Consul  Dillon.  2d.  Indemnity.  3d.  A  new  treaty. 
Had  some  talk  about  the  duty  on  brandy.  Stated  that  high  duty 
prevented  its  use  among  the  natives.  That  its  sale  was  prohib- 
ited altogether  at  Tahiti  by  French  authority.  Told  him  my 
time  was  precious.  Hoped  we  could  complete  all  in  a  month. 
He  smiled,  but  looked  doubtful  and  renewed  the  promise  of 
mentioning  me  to  the  French  Minister." 

Letter  from  one  of  the  princes : 

"Paris,  Hotel  Meurice,  April  4,  1850. 

"  Dear  Friend  : — Your  letter  of  December  came  to  hand  two 
weeks  ago,  when  we  were  very  busy  writing  copies  of  the  treaty 
between  our  Government  and  the  United  States,  to  be  sent  to 
the  Foreign  Office  here.  You  can  not  conceive  our  feelings 
when  we  saw  the  clerk  of  the  hotel  come  in  with  a  large  pack- 
age from  home. 

"  We  have  been  in  this  city  more  than  two  months.  We  like 
it  better  than  New  York  or  London,  the  climate  especially.  We 
are  at  the  hotel  where  Mr.  Richards  and  Haalilio  stayed  in  1843  ; 
and  some  of  the  waiters  remember  them  very  well.  It  is  one  of 
the  finest  situations  in  the  city,  close  to  the  palace  and  Garden 
of  the  Tuileries.  The  trees  are  just  beginning  to  put  forth  their 
leaves,  and  this  is  the  first  time  we  have  seen  spring.  Last  Sun- 
day the  fountains  played  in  the  garden,  and  one  spouted  the 
water  as  high  as  the  steeple  of  the  stone  church  at  Honolulu. 

"  We  take  lessons  in  French  two  hours  every  day  and  spend 
one  hour  with  our  fencing  master.  I  hope  we  shall  be  able  be- 
fore we  go  away  to  speak  French  so  well  that  we  can  talk  to- 
gether when  we  get  home.     It  is  a  very  sweet  language. 

"  Last  night  we  all  went  to  General  La  Hitte's,  the  Minister  of 
Foreign  Relations,  to  a  soiree.  We  saw  Monsieur  and  Madame 
Dillon. 

"  We  have  been  detained  here  longer  than  we  expected,  and 
I  fear  we  shall  be  obliged  to  remain  still  loiiger.    We  have  be- 


200  Honolulu. 


come  acquainted  with  a  French  family  who  are  going  out  tc 
the  islands  with  the  new  commissioner,  Mr.  Perrin,  who  is  ap- 
pointed to  fill  M.  Dillon's  post. 

"  Your  letter  gave  me  great  pleasure,  as  I  had  received  but  one 
since  we  left 

From  Dr.  Judd : 

"  .  .  .  .  Our  young  friends  are  very  busy  with  their  lessons, 
and  really  improve  their  time.  They  attract  some  attention, 
and  are  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms  by  General  La  Hitte  and 
his  daughters,  whose  soirees  we  attend. 

"  Since  I  wrote  you  last,  I  have  been,  like  Mr.  Richards,  the 
subject  of  alternate  hopes  and  fears,  employing  my  time  most 
vigorously  in  waztmg.  Yesterday  I  actually  sat  down  in  earnest 
in  one  of  the  council  rooms  at  the  Foreign  Office,  with  a  French 
agent  to  discuss  and  settle,  if  possible,  our  difficulties.  I  go 
there  again  to-day. 

"  We  have  visited  the  Louvre,  Luxembourg,  the  Madeleine,  St. 
Denis,  Hotel  des  Invalides.  Have  been  to  St.  Cloud  and  Ver- 
sailles. Have  seen  Robert  Houdin  and  heard  Madame  Sontag. 
Have  made  the  acquaintance  of  many  distinguished  people,  re- 
ceived much  courtesy  and  many  compliments,  but  justice  in  a 
grass  hut  would  suit  me  better  than  all  this  magnificence  with- 
out it. 

"March  yth. — Attended  the  reception  of  the  President,  Louis 
Napoleon.  The  French  minister  presented  us.  The  President 
addressed  us  in  French.  The  minister  remarked  to  him,  '  They 
speak  English.'  To  the  princes  he  said  :  '  Is  this  your  first  visit 
to  Paris  ?  I  hope  you  like  Paris.'  Alexander  replied,  with  a 
low  bow:  'We  are  very  much  pleased  with  Paris.'  To  me 
he  said :  '  You  have  come  a  very  long  way ;  I  hope  you  will 
settle  our  little  quarrels  at  the  islands.'  I  replied,  'We  have 
great  hopes.  We  trust  a  great  deal  to  the  justice  and  magnan- 
imity of  France.  We  are  anxious  to  settle  as  speedily  as  possi- 
ble ;  for  if  anything  should  happen  to  the  king  in  our  absence, 
it  would  be  a  great  misfortune,  as  the  heir-apparent  is  in  this 
embassy;  and  I  should  be  blamed  for  keeping  him  away  so  long.' 

"  The  princes  were  presented  to  the  British  Ambassador,  who 
invited  us  to  call  on  him  every  day.    We  were  all  presented  to 


The  Princes  in  Paris,  201 

the  Grand  Duchess  of  Baden,  aunt  of  the  President,  who  waa 
covered  with  diamonds,  and  almost  stout  enough  for  a  Hawaiian 
beauty.  She  spoke  in  French,  praised  our  uniforms  (which  we 
understood),  though  it  was  interpreted  as  praise  of  the  weather. 

"  General  La  Hitte  assured  me  all  would  be  settled  and  the 
treaty  stand.  He  inquired  if  our  uniforms  were  made  at  the 
islands  ?  I  told  him  no ;  but  the  design  was  the  kalo  leaf,  pe- 
culiar to  our  own  islands. 

"  On  our  way  to  the  President's  we  called  on  the  Greek  Am- 
bassador, who  is  here  to  secure  the  good  offices  of  the  French 
in  settling  their  late  difficulties  with  England.  During  our  con- 
versation I  asked  him  if  they  (the  Greeks)  expected  indemnity 
for  their  losses  ?  ■  No,'  he  replied,  '  we  shall  be  content  if  they 
let  us  alone  and  do  no  more  damage.' 

"March  nth. — Visited  the  Foreign  Office  and  British  Minis- 
ter. Had  long  conversations  and  discussions.  Am  convinced 
that  six  months  at  least  will  be  required  to  bring  matters  tc 
a  decision,  and  then  the  verdict  will  be  against  our  claims.  They 
expect  me  to  yield  ;  but  the  king  did  not  send  me  this  long  jour- 
ney to  grant  what  he  had  refused  ;  and  for  which  refusal  he  had 
suffered  so  much. 

"  I  called  on  the  Due  de  Broglie,  who  is  said  to  be  an  honest 
man.  Got  little  encouragement.  He  said  the  National  Assem- 
bly would  not  disown  the  acts  of  their  officers.  Called  on  Gui- 
zot ;  stated  our  three  demands.  He  asked  if  spirits  were  intro- 
duced under  our  law  and  high  duty  ?  I  said,  '  Yes,  to  the  amount 
of  five  thousand  gallons  per  annum.'  '  Then  you  have  acted  up 
to  the  spirit  and  intention  of  the  treaty,  but  the  mischief  is  done 
and  you  will  get  no  indemnity.  The  Socialist  party  will  go 
against  you.  There  is  some  hope  from  the  Moderates.  Might 
not  the  affairs  be  arranged  by  arbiters  ? '  He  suggested  the  King 
of  Belgium.  Said  the  King  of  Denmark  did  not  know  much ; 
and  the  King  of  Prussia  was  young  and  flippant.  The  Queen  of 
England  might  appoint  a  person,  but  the  Greek  question  was  an 
obstacle,  as  the  French  were  chosen  to  mediate.  The  United 
States  would  not  be  accepted.  Americans  are  too  much  in  your 
interest 

"  March  12th. — Received  a  note  from  M.  La  Hitte,  notifying 
me  of  the  appointment  of  M.  Perrin,  with  full  powers  to  treat 
with  me  in  regard  to  the  treaty. 


202  Honolulu. 


"March  20th. — Had  a  long  interview  with  M.  Perrin.     Fin 
ished  our  first  protocol. 

"  22d. — Went  again  to  the  Foreign  Office.  M.  Perrin  wished 
to  withdraw  his  protocol,  or  leave  out  the  arguments  and  sign 
only  the  results.  M.  Perrin  is  authorized  to  say,  on  the  part  of 
France,  that  the  declaration  of  Admiral  de  Tromelin,  making 
the  treaty  of  1846  null  and  void,  was  not  approved.  Discussed 
the  treaty  article  by  article.  I  refused  to  bind  my  Government 
any  further  than  France  is  bound  in  our  stipulations. 

"  28/^. — M.  Perrin  came  with  his  memoranda.  Says  the  minis- 
ter is  the  accredited  agent,  and  is  the  one  to  decide  finally.  I 
called  an  interpreter.  The  word  in  the  sixth  article  admits  of 
latitude.  It  is  used  for  prohibition,  but  may  mean  hindrance 
or  obstacle.  A  long  battle  upon  this  one  word,  and  we  can  not 
agree I  foresee  no  good  result. 

"  Visited  Mr.  Rives,  American  Minister.  He  informed  me  that 
the  Congress,  at  Washington,  will  adjourn  early  in  July.  It  is 
important  for  us  to  be  there  before  the  adjournment 

"  The  British  Ambassador  gives  me  no  hope.  Says  we  have 
been  treated  with  greater  consideration  than  some  nearer  neigh- 
bors. Received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Barclay,  advising  me  to  break 
off  negotiations,  as  nothing  can  be  gained,  and  much  may  be  lost 
in  time  and  money.  Sent  a  letter  to  Viscount  La  Hitte,  announc- 
ing my  intention  of  leaving  Paris  on  the  9th  of  April 

"  Isidore,  our  valet,  accompanied  us  to  Dover  and  took  charge 
of  our  baggage,  which  was  passed  the  custom-house  without  duty 
or  examination,  by  order  of  the  Treasury  Department."  .... 


XL. 


The  Embassy  in  England — Visit  to  Admiral  Thomai 
—  Plymouth— The  Adelphi  —  Lord  Palmerston  — 
Lord  George  Paulet  and  Lieutenant  Frere — Buck- 
ingham Palace — The  French  A  mbassador— Dining 
Out— The  Treaty  Discussed-  Mr.  Wyllie's  Letter. 


185O. 

ON  arriving  in  London,  we  reported  ourselves  to 
Lord  Palmerston,  at  the  Foreign  Office,  and  went 
to  Plymouth  to  visit  Admiral  Thomas,  two  hundred 
and  forty  miles  from  London.  Were  only  ten  hours  on 
the  way.  The  good  admiral  met  us  at  the  depot,  and 
took  us  in  his  own  carriage  to  his  hospitable  door.  Were 
introduced  to  his  wife  and  daughter.  Dinner  was  wait- 
ing. Other  guests  had  been  invited.  We  made  a  hasty 
toilet,  and  were  introduced  to  a  very  pleasant  circle.  It 
was  gratifying  to  me  to  come  into  contact  with  a  religious 
family  in  Europe — and  that,  too,  where  mere  formality 
would  have  been  expected  by  many. 

After  a  night's  rest  we  visited  the  dockyard  and  ship- 
ping, and  saw  many  curious  and  wonderful  things.  (For 
detail  of  all  our  sight-seeing,  must  refer  to  my  private 
journal).  We  were  introduced  to  Sir  Thomas  Maitland 
and  Admiral  Sir  William  Gage.  The  latter  was  Lord  of 
the  Admiralty  when  Thomas  was  in  the  Pacific,  and  ap- 
proved of  his  course  at  the  Islands  in  restoring  the  king- 
dom  On  our  return  to  London  we  visited  the 

Adelphi  Hotel,  and  inquired  for  the  rooms  occupied  by 

(203) 


204  Honolulu. 


the  King  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  1823.  We  weie 
received  politely,  and  shown  the  very  bed  and  bedstead 
on  which  Liholiho  died.  The  chamber-maid  remembered 
Governor  Kekuanaoa,  and  inquired  after  Madame  Bold. 
We  gave  each  servant  a  fee  and  returned  to  our  lodg- 
ings. 

April  iSt/i. — Presented  the  princes  to  Lord  Palmerston 
in  his  own  library  at  Carlton  Garden,  where  we  had  a 
long  interview.     I  went  over  all  the  grounds  of  dispute 

with   France Lord  Palmerston  said  the  French 

must  give  up  their  demands  about  the  treaty,  and  we, 
our  claim  for  indemnity. 

After  this  interview,  which  occupied  four  hours  and  a 
half,  we  went  to  lunch  with  Admiral  Seymour,  where  we 
met  Lord  George  Paulet  and  Lieutenant  Frere,  of  "ces- 
sion "  memory.  Both  were  very  cordial,  and  had  much 
to  say  about  the  Islands.  Colonel  Seymour,  son  of  the 
admiral,  is  Equerry-in-waiting  to  Prince  Albert,  and 
proffered  his  services 

He  took  us  to  Buckingham  Palace,  where  our  conde- 
scending friend,  Lord  Palmerston,  introduced  us  to  His 
Royal  Highness,  Prince  Albert.  Her  Majesty  the 
Queen  had  retired  from  the  public  for  a  short  season. 
We  all  did  our  best  to  make  a  good  impression.  I  told 
Prince  Albert  that  the  King  of  the  Sandwich  Islands 
had  sent  me  to  Europe  to  obtain  justice  from  France  for 
injuries  received,  and  that  these  young  princes  accom- 
panied me  in  order  to  be  benefited  by  foreign  travel ; 
that  our  visit  to  Paris  had  been  unsuccessful,  and  we 
now  sought  the  aid  of  the  greatest  diplomat  in  Europe 
(designating  Lord  Palmerston). 

His  Royal  Highness  replied,  he  hoped  it  was  not  too 
late  to  come  between  us  and  France.  He  made  inquiries 
about  the  Islands,  our  journey,  etc.,  which  occupied,  per 


Lord  Paimerston.  205 

haps,  fifteen  minutes,  when  we  bowed  ourselves  out; 
His  Royal  Highness  gave  orders  that  Mr.  Bridges  Tay 
lor,  a  gentleman  connected  with  the  Foreign  Office, 
should  attend  us  to  Windsor  Castle,  and  show  us  all  we 
wished  to  see  in  London. 

On  the  20th  had  a  long  interview,  of  two  hours  and  a 
half,  with  the  French  Ambassador  in  London,  and  an- 
other with  Lord  Paimerston  on  the  22d.  Begged  his 
Lordship's  forbearance  with  my  importunity.  Our  Isl- 
ands were  small,  but  our  independence  of  as  much  con- 
sequence to  us,  as  that  of  great  nations  to  them.  I  told 
him  I  had  just  received  a  letter  from  the  king ;  that  he 
had  been  reviewing  the  scene  of  French  spoliation,  and 
felt  sadly  crippled  in  his  means  of  defense.  Hordes  of 
unprincipled  men  might  pour  down  upon  him  from  Cali- 
fornia at  any  time,  and  his  sovereignty  would  not  be  re- 
spected ;  and  was  not  worth  possessing,  if  he  was  to  be 
subjected  to  such  embarrassments  as  the  French  had 
imposed. 

I  gave  him  copies  of  our  treaty  with  the  United  States, 
and  of  my  powers  to  support  the  dignity,  and  independ- 
ence, and  claims  of  the  king.  We  spent  two  hours  in 
discussing  the  peculiar  situation  of  the  Islands,  looking  at 
the  map.  Lord  Paimerston  thinks  the  French  will  send 
a  man  to  the  Islands  to  settle  the  treaty.  I  asked  if  En- 
gland would  send  one  also.  He  said  yes,  unless  General 
Miller  would  do.  I  replied,  he  was  well-disposed.  His 
Lordship  promised  to  communicate  this  to  the  French 
Minister,  and  I  took  leave. 

May  1st. — Dined  with  Lord  and  Lady  Paimerston. 
A  very  splendid  affair.  Twenty  guests  were  present. 
Prince  Alexander  led  Lady  Paimerston  to  the  table. 
Lord  P.  took  Lady  Seymour,  "  queen  of  beauty."  Prince 
Lot,   Miss  Seymour.     In  the  course  of  the  evening  a 


2o6  Honolulu. 


gentleman  inquired  how  long  these  y)ung  men  had  been 
in  England ;  and,  on  being  told  only  a  few  weeks,  re- 
marked that  they  appeared  as  familiar  with  society  as 
the  best-bred  people  in  England  !  A  lady  inquired  how 
they  learned  to  speak  English.  I  told  her  they  were 
educated  in  English.  "  And  where  did  they  acquire 
Court  manners?"  she  asked.  We  have  a  little  court  of 
our  own,  I  said.  Lord  Palmerston  inquired  if  we  would 
make  a  long  visit  in  the  United  States.  I  replied  that 
we  should  visit  Washington.  He  said  he  would  give  us 
a  letter  to  Sir  Henry  Bulwer 

The  next  day  we  dined  at  Brompton  Park,  with  Earl 
Talbot  and  lady.  Sir  George  Seymour  and  Lord  Shef- 
field, with  many  other  distinguished  guests,  were  present. 
Went  with  Lady  Sanford  to  Almack's,  where  we  saw  all 
the  aristocracy  of  rank,  beauty,  wealth,  and  fashion. 

This  over,  we  took  leave  of  our  friends,  Admiral 
Thomas  among  the  number.  Told  him  how  kindly  we 
had  been  treated.  He  said  it  was  merited  by  the  kind 
treatment  which  English  officials  had  received  at  the 
Islands.  Our  amiable  friend,  Hon.  Bridges  Taylor,  at- 
tended us  to  Liverpool  and  paid  our  expenses  to  Boston, 
per  order  of  Her  Majesty's  Government 

It  is  easy  to  see  that  the  Greek  question,  in  which 
France  is  chosen  umpire,  makes  it  a  delicate  matter  for 
England  to  interfere  in  our  difficulties  and  coerce  the 
French,  either  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  or  Tahiti.  I 
learned  a  diplomatic  maxim  in  England,  which  is  worth 
recording :  "  Never  tell  a  lie — and  strictly  avoid  the  truth." 

The  day  before  we  left  England,  we  had  an  introduction 
to  Mrs.  Abbott  Lawrence  and  daughter.  I  had  heard 
the  American  Ambassador  make  a  speech  in  Exeter  Hall 
before  the  London  Bible  Society,  which  elicited  great 
applause.     We  received  cards  to  attend  Mrs.  Lawrence's 


Diplomatic   Work.  207 

first  reception,  but  were  obliged  to  decline,  as  we  were  to 
leave  London  on  that  day. 

I  will  just  mention  that  the  object  of  my  last  interview 
with  Lord  Palmerston  on  the  26th  was  to  persuade  him 
to  induce  France  to  unite  with  England  in  adopting  a 
treaty  similar  to  that  of  the  United  States  ;  and  that  the 
three  nations  should  agree,  that  in  case  of  any  difficulty 
between  us  and  any  one  of  the  three,  it  should  be  settled 
by  reference  to  the  other  two ;  also  to  secure  our  neu- 
trality in  war 

I  have  received  the  Honolulu  Times,  in  which  appears 
Mr.  Wyllie's  letter  to  me,  of  November  18,  1847,  which 
I  never  answered.  Judge  Lee  can  relate  to  you  a  con- 
versation that  took  place  between  Mr.  Wyllie  and  my- 
self respecting  it.  I. am  always  glad  I  did  not  waste  my 
time  in  attempting  to  reply.  It  would  have  involved  a 
long  correspondence  and  interfered  with  my  official  du- 
ties, which  absorbed  all  my  time.  Do  not  allow  your- 
self to  feel  cool  toward  Mr.  Wyllie  on  account  of  the^ 
letter.  We  have  had  some  explanation  about  the  man- 
ner it  became  public.  If  necessary,  I  can  require  still 
more  on  my  return.  But  I  hope  it  will  not  be  necessary. 
Why  should  we  contend  among  ourselves,  wl  o  are  strug- 
gling so  hard  for  the  life  of  the  land  ? 


XLI. 


Return  to  the  U. .?. — Letter  from  one  oj  hePrincet— 
Washington — Funeral  of  Calhoun— Reception  at 
President  Taylor's  —  Letter  from  Dr.Judd—An 
Anecdote  —  Daniel  Webster  — Fete  Champe'tre  at 
Siaten  Island— Niagara— Return  to  the  Islands— 
Results  of  the  Embassy. 

"  Boston,  May  20,  1850. 

a     \    RRIVED  on  the  17th,  after  a  cold  passage  of  thirteen 

/-\     days   among  the   icebergs.      Shall   make   short  visits 

among  many  friends  ;  go  to  Washington  via  New  York ; 

attend  to  our  business  and  get  back  to  the  Islands,  if  possible, 

before  the  arrival  of  the  French  agent." 

►     Letter  of  one  of  the  princes : 

"  We  have  just  returned  from  Washington,  after  having  seen 
the  President  and  members  of  Congress.  We  visited  the  Sen- 
ate and  House  of  Representatives ;  heard  speeches ;  were  intro- 
duced to  some,  among  whom  was  Mr.  Clay.  We  also  attended 
a  funeral  of  one  of  the  members,*  and  wore  our  uniforms,  as  is 
the  custom  in  our  country,  but  no  one  else  wore  court  dresses  ; 
so  we  were  singular,  and  some  people  stared  at  us,  as  we  do  at 
the  officers  of  the  navy  when  they  visit  the  Islands. 

"  In  the  evening  of  the  same  day  we  attended  General  Taylor's 
reception,  and  were  presented  to  the  President.  We  were  intro- 
duced to  and  talked  with  a  great  many  people,  and  talked  with 
some  to  whom  we  were  not  introduced,  as  they  do  in  Europe. 

"  Mr.  Jarves  was  with  us  in  Washington,  and  has  got  the  treaty 
finished. 

"We  staid  at  the  Revere  House  in  Boston  on  our  return  from 


*  John  C.  Calhoun. 
(208) 


A  Princes  Impressions.  209 

Europe.  Occupied  the  rooms  prepared  for  Jenny  Lind,  and  saw 
the  elite  of  the  city. 

"  Attended  the  opera  and  had  to  pay  twenty  dollars  for  our 
tickets.     In  Europe  we  have  better  music  for  less  money. 

"  Mr.  Jarves  says  there  is  a  grand  party  to  be  given,  especially 
for  us,  on  Staten  Island,  on  the  10th.  Fourteen  hundred  people 
are  invited,  and  it  will  cost  three  thousand  dollars !  I  am  not 
very  anxious  about  it. 

"I  long  to  be  at  home.  Your  father  is  'tres  gros,'  as  the 
Frenchmen  say.  I  am  afraid  you  will  not  know  him ;  and  we 
were  never  in  better  health. 

"  I  did  not  write  you  from  San  Francisco,  as  I  promised.  I 
knew  you  would  not  like  to  hear  about  sufferings  and  murders 
and  gamblers,  and  what  else  could  I  write  about  from  there  ? 

"  We  spent  four  months  in  Europe,  and  the  climate  agreed 
with  us  perfectly.  When  in  London  we  thought  that  the  great- 
est city  in  the  world ;  but  however  that  may  be  with  regard  to 
London's  greatness,  it  can  never,  I  think,  compete  with  Paris  in 
gayety  and  splendor.  There  are  a  great  'many  places  of  amuse- 
ment. The  ladies  are  '  tres  charmantes.'  We  attended  a  great 
many  evening  parties,  'conversations'  they  are  called.  After 
presenting  yourself  to  the  lady  of  the  house,  you  can  stay  as  long 
as  you  please  and  go  away  when  you  like.  At  intervals  very 
delicate  refreshments  are  brought  around  by  the  waiters. 

"  We  were  enchanted  with  Paris,  and  urged  your  father  to 
stay  longer.  You  would  be  delighted  with  the  magnificence  of 
the  palaces  and  paintings,  but  most  of  all  with  the  fine  music. 
But  I  will  tell  you  all  about  Europe  when  I  get  home.  We  have 
finished  the  most  important  part  of  our  embassy,  and  shall  be 
home  in  a  few  months.  Liholiho." 

From  Dr.  Judd : 

"Washington,  May,  1850. 

"  .  .  .  .  Met  Mr.  Seward  in  the  Senate,  who  came  and  invited 
us  to  the  floor,  and  introduced  us  to  Clay,  Houston,  Smith,  But- 
ler, Green,  and  Dawson.  The  capitol  is  splendid ;  the  grounds 
laid  out  somewhat  like  Versailles,  but  much  smaller.  Met  many 
old  friends,  who  have  been  to  the  Islands.  Went  with  Captain 
Wilkes  to  the  Museum  and  Patent  Office,  where,  among  many 
interesting  objects,  I  saw  my  old  cake  of  lava  [p.  102]. 


2IO  Honolulu. 


"At  the  President's  reception  an  American  lady  asked  Prince 
Alexander  how  he  liked  American  ladies  ?  '  Very  well,'  he  re- 
plied. '  Which  do  you  think  the  prettiest,  or  which  do  you  pre- 
fer, the  American  or  those  of  your  own  country  ? '  '  That  is  a 
difficult  question,  one  does  not  like  to  speak  ill  of  their  country- 
women,' was  the  prince's  reply.  The  flippant  young  lady  turned 
to  me  and  said,  '  How  very  complimentary !  But  /  should  not 
like  to  sit  on  that  throne.'  'Would  you  not  like  to  support  it?1 
I  asked.    'Yes,'  she  replied. 

"  .  .  .  .  We  called  on  Mr.  Webster,  who  was  more  formal,  cold, 
and  stiff  than  any  lord  in  Europe. 

"  Captain  Wilkes  made  a  grand  party,  where  we  met  all  the 
Washingtonians.  Miss  Wilkes,  a  very  accomplished  young  lady, 
did  the  honors.  .Jhe  entertainment  would  have  pleased  you. 
We  had  strawberries  and  cream ;  and  the  flowers  were  the  finest 
I  ever  saw,  all  from  their  own  grounds,  and  planted  by  Mrs. 
Wilkes,  the  late  presiding  genius  of  the  household. 

"  Dined  with  Sir  Henry  Bulwer,  where  we  met  the  Prussian 
Ambassador,  who  knows  Mr.  Wyllie  and  inquired  after  him. 
Also  met  the  Danish  Minister,  who  remarked  that  he  was  dis- 
gusted with  the  heartlessness  of  Governments ;  that  neither  En- 
gland or  Russia,  nor  any  strong  power,  would  be  faithful  to 
Denmark. 

"  Mr.  Clayton  promises  to  notify  France  and  England  that  his 
Government  will  not  look  with  indifference  upon  any  act  of  op- 
pression co7nmitted  or  any  attempt  to  take  the  Islands.  They  would 
give  orders  for  defense  in  such  an  event.  His  official  letter  was 
a  good  one."  .... 

"  New  York,  June  10th. 

"  Attended  Mrs.  C 's  '  Fete  champ6tre,'  at  Clifton,  where 

hundreds  of  the  elite  from  the  city  and  Staten  Island  were  as- 
sembled. A  fairy  scene !  A  galaxy  of  beauty !  The  lady  of  the 
mansion,  the  star  of  the  evening,  fairly  led  one  of  the  princes 
captive  by  her  charms.  I  did  not  enjoy  it.  Sword  and  cocked 
hat,  worn  on  the  occasion  by  particular  request,  precluded  every 
idea  of  comfort." 

After  a  visit  to  Niagara  and  spending  one  week  with 
Dr.  Judd's  aged,  widowed  mother,  the  embassy  returned 


Return  to  the  Islands,  211 

to  the  Islands  via  Panama,  having  been  absent  two  days 
less  than  a  year.  The  young  princes  were  in  excellent 
health  and  spirits;  and  much  improved  in  mind  and 
manners  and  looking  quite  handsome. 

The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  to  whom  the  em- 
bassy reported  on  their  return,  blamed  them  for  not  sue- 
ceeding  in  settling  the  contested  points  of  the  treaty  at  the 
Court  of  France  and  reclaiming  indemnity  for  the  fort 
spoliations,  and  also  for  hot  securing  the  interest  for  seven 
years  upon  the  twenty  thousand  dollars  which  La  Place 
took  away,  and  Admiral  Hamelin  returned,  the  same 
coin  in  the  same  boxes.  It  may  be  rejoined  that  His 
Excellency  has  been  occupied  for  nine  years  since  in  the 
same  contest  with  the  same  accredited  French  agent  at 
the  Islands. 

The  contest  was  closed  in  1859,  by  Mr.  Wyllie  yield- 
ing to  France  the  long-contested  items  of  the  treaty,  and 
accepting,  in  place  of  indemnity  for  the  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars  damages,  a  few  French  "  nick-nacks." 


E 


XLII. 

Mr.  Armstrong's  Address — Good  Advice — Events  in 
1850  and  1851 — Royal  Haw.  Agricultural  Soc— 
Judge  Lee's  Address — Extract  from  Mr.  IVyllie's 
Address — Don  Marin  s  Journal — His  Character 
— Eruption  on  Mauna  Loa— Distilling  and  Wint- 
Making. 

♦  i85o-'5i. 

XTRACT  from  Mr.  Armstrong's  address  to  the 
natives  on  their  receiving  their  lands  : 


"  Read  the  resolutions  of  the  Privy  Council,  published  in  this 
paper,  which  have  already  designated  and  settled  the  rights  of 
the  common  natives  to  lands  which  they  occupy.  Now,  then, 
my  fellow-subjects,  let  us  advise  you  a  little. 

"  1st.  Be  not  obstinate  in  insisting  upon  every  little  crook  and 
corner  in  your  land,  but  consult  together  and  unite  one  piece 
with  another,  so  that  several  may  be  enclosed  in  the  same  patent, 
so  as  to  accommodate  yourselves.  This  uniting  several  pieces 
into  one  lessens  the  charge  of  the  Land  Commission.  Do  k 
quickly.     Do  not  put  it  off. 

"2d.  When  you  have  obtained  your  patents,  what  will  you  do  ? 
Just  as  you  did  before  ?  Ride  about  from  place  to  place,  work  a 
little  and  idle  about  a  great  deal,  sleep,  and  talk  ?  If  so,  your 
trouble  and  expenses  in  obtaining  patents  will  be  utterly  useless. 
You  should  act  thus : — Let  the  wife  remain  at  home  and  put  the 
house  in  order ;  and  the  husband  go  out  and  cultivate  the  land, 
day  by  day.  Be  industrious,  and  fit  up  your  houses  and  house- 
lots.  Furnish  yourselves  with  chairs,  beds,  plates,  bowls,  knives 
and  forks,  spoons,  and  glasses.  Provide  separate  sleeping-rooms 
for  parents  and  children  ;  and  increase  the  produce  of  your  lands. 
Rest  not  until  you  are  comfortably  supplied  with  all  these  good 
things.  Plant  all  kinds  of  trees  in  your  lands — the  fig,  coffee, 
(212) 


Mr.  Armstrong's  Address.  213 

guava,  orange,  bread-fruit,  cocoanut,  and  all  kinds  of  flowering 
shrubs,  so  that  your  lands  may  be  embellished  with  beautiful 
plants  and  trees. 

"  Take  proper  care  of  your  children,  so  you  be  not  destitute  of 
heirs  to  your  lands.  Let  your  daughters  remain  at  home  with 
the  mother.  Teach  them  to  sew,  wash,  iron,  make  mats  and 
hats,  and  seek  after  knowledge.  The  little  girls  should  go  to 
school.  The  older  boys  should  work  with  their  fathers,  for,  as 
the  land  will  become  theirs,  they  should  work  upon  and  improve 
it. 

"  You  should  also  live  in  accordance  with  the  Word  of  God — 
for  your  lands  will  do  you  no  good  if  you  disregard  His  com 
mands  by  quarreling,  drinking,  and  licentiousness,  devoting  your* 
selves  to  pleasure  and  breaking  the  Sabbath.  Furnish  your 
children  with  maps,  books,  and  other  things,  to  help  them  acquire 
knowledge. 

"  If  you  now  continue  poor,  needy,  living  in  disorder  in  mis- 
erable huts,  your  lands  lying  waste  and  passing  into  other  hands, 
whose  fault  will  it  be  ?  Whose  but  yours  ?  Some  say  this 
country  is  going  to  ruin  through  your  laziness  and  ignorance. 
Is  it  so  ?  Then  be  it  so  no  longer !  Rouse  up  and  act  as  those 
wish  you  to  do  who  have  a  real  regard  for  your  welfare  ! " 

In  looking  over  an  old  journal,  I  find  the  following 
items  recorded,  as  distinguishing  the  years  1850  and  '51  : 
Publication  of  the  Penal  Code  of  Laws,  revised  by  Judge 
Lee ;  Post-office  Regulations,  naming  the  streets  in 
Honolulu  ;  laying  water-pipes  from  the  valley  to  the 
town  ;  arrival  of  a  new  U.  S.  Commissioner,  L.  Severance 
and  family ;  a  Chamber  of  Commerce  ;  a  fire  company ; 
public  reading-room  ;  market  laws  ;  Board  of  Health  and 
a  town  clock ;  proposals,  also,  to  erect  a  house  of  worship 
for  foreign  residents,  so  as  to  leave  more  room  in  the 
Bethel  for  the  crowds  of  seamen  who  visit  this  port ; 
also  the  formation  of  the  Royal  Agricultural  Society. 

Extract  from  Judge  Lee's  address  before  the  "  R.  H. 
Agricultural  Society  " : 


214  Honolulu, 


"  This  is  no  common  gathering.  In  a  small  island  of  the  Pa- 
cific, which,  thirty  years  ago,  was  buried  in  the  darkness  of 
heathenism,  and  scarcely  known  to  the  civilized  portions  of  the 
earth,  in  a  country  whose  uplands  were  then  slumbering  in  the 
almost  unbroken  rest  of  ages,  and  whose  lowlands  knew  little 
culture  but  that  of  the  kalo  patch,  there  has  this  day  assembled 
the  planter,  who  counts  his  hundreds  of  acres  of  sugar-cane  and 
coffee-trees ;  the  farmer,  raising  cargoes  of  vegetables  for  Cali- 
fornia ;  and  the  herdsman,  who  gathers  in  his  folds  a  thousand 
cattle.     Indeed,  this  is  no  every-day  assemblage. 

"Who,  in  the  days  of  the  distinguished  discoverer  of  these 
islands — of  the  great  and  good  Vancouver,  or  in  the  still  later 
times  of  the  arrival  of  the  American  missionaries  on  these  savage 
shores,  would  have  dared  to  predict  that,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord 
1850,  there  would  gather  in  these  ends  of  the  earth,  from  Europe, 
from  Asia,  from  North  and  from  South  America,  from  Old  En- 
gland and  from  New  England,  such  a  body  as  we  now  see  ?  Who, 
at  that  time,  would  have  staked  his  reputation  on  such  a  proph- 
ecy ?  Verily,  my  friends,  I  hail  this  assemblage  with  joy.  I  hail 
it  as  an  advancing  step  toward  the  thorough  civilization  of  the 
Hawaiian  race,  and  the  security  of  its  national  prosperity  and 
independence.  Great  as  is  the  contrast  presented  to  us  between 
the  present  and  thirty  years  ago,  in  the  view  we  have  just  taken, 
I  venture  to  predict  that  those  who  fill  our  places  thirty  years 
hence,  will  see  a  far  greater  one  between  that  time  and  the  pres- 
ent year,  1850.  They  will  see  our  valleys  blooming  with  coffee 
and  fruit  trees,  our  barren  hill-sides  waving  with  luxuriant  cane- 
fields,  our  worthless  plains  irrigated  and  fruitful,  and  the  grass 
huts  now  scattered  over  our  lands,  replaced  by  comfortable  farm- 
houses. 

"  Until  the  last  year  the  Hawaiian  held  his  land  as  a  mere  ten- 
ant at  sufferance,  subject  to  be  dispossessed  at  any  time  it  might 
suit  the  will  or  caprice  of  his  chief,  or  that  of  his  oppressive 
'luna.'  Of  what  avail  was  it  to  the  common  people  to  raise 
more  than  enough  to  supply  the  immediate  wants  of  their  sub- 
sistence? Would  the  surplus  belong  to  them,  or  afford  the 
means  of  future  independence  ?  Far  from  it.  It  would  go  to 
add  to  the  stores  of  their  despotic  lords,  who  claimed  an  absolute 
right  in  all  their  property,  and  who  periodically  sent  forth  their 
hordes  of  'lunas  '  to  scour  the  country  and  plunder  the  people. 


Address  by  Judge  Lee,  215 

I  thank  God  that  these  things  are  now  at  an  end,  and  that  the  poor 
kanaka  may  now  stand  on  the  border  of  his  kalo  patch,  and 
holding  his  fee-simple  patent  in  his  hand,  bid  defiance  to  the 
world.  Yes,  I  thank  God  that  He  has  moved  the  heart  of  the 
king  and  chiefs  of  these  islands  to  let  the  oppressed  go  free. 

H  The  granting  of  the  royal  patents  to  the  common  people  for 
their  lands  is  the  brightest  jewel  that  adorns  the  crown  of 
Kamehameha  III.,  and  one  that  will  shine  with  increasing  lustre 
long  after  his  body  shall  moulder  to  its  mother  earth.  The 
lands  are  now  thrown  open  to  all  classes — the  native  and  for- 
eigner, subject  and  alien.  What  a  fund  of  wealth  lies  hid  in  the 
slumbering  energies  of  2,500,000  acres!  Enough  to  feed  5,000,- 
000  inhabitants,  and  load  a  hundred  first-class  ships  annually 
with  our  surplus  produce. 

"  There  is  one  agent,  however,  that  we  require,  who  holds  the 
key  of  success — the  great  brawny-armed,  huge-fisted  giant  called 
labor.  Agriculture  has  been  let  alone,  and  the  people's  rights  so 
long  withheld,  that  now,  when  the  dark  cloud,  which  has  hovered 
upon  them  for  ages,  is  lifting,  there  is  hardly  a  nation  to  save. 
Alas !  and  must  this  peeple,  possessed  of  so  many  kind,  generous 
traits,  perish  from  the  face  of  the  earth  ?  Perish,  too,  not  by 
famine,  nor  pestilence,  nor  the  sword,  but  by  the  rust  of  indo- 
lence— the  canker  of  sloth?  Shall  we  let  them  die  without 
making  one  struggle  to  save  them  from  the  grave  to  which  they 
are  hastening?  No,  my  friends,  justice  and  humanity  forbid. 
Though  but  a  lone  remnant  remains,  let  us  strive  to  gird  it  with 
strength  to  wrestle  with  its  approaching  destiny ;  to  arm  it  with 
the  healthy  body  and  vigorous  frame,  the  only  weapon  that  can 
stay  the  hands  of  the  destroyer.  Then  if  our  last  hope  fail,  if  all 
our  efforts  to  send  a  quickening  life-pulse  through  the  heart  of 
the  wasting  nation  avail  not,  we  can  but  commend  it  to  Him,  in 
whose  hands  are  the  issues  of  life  and  death — to  Him  who  num- 
bereth  the  nations  as  the  small  dust  of  the  balance,  and  taketh 
up  the  isles  as  a  very  little  thing." 

Extract  from  Mr.  Wyllie's  address : 

"  Nor  was  agriculture  unknown  to  the  ancient  Hawaiian.  The 
early  navigators,  Cook  and  Vancouver,  have  recorded  their  skii] 
and  ingenuity  in  conducting  water  in  conduits  to  fertilize  theu 
fields. 


216  Honolulu, 


"  We  find  the  following  productions  on  the  Islands  seventy-two 
years  ago :  kalo,  of  large  size,  sweet  potatoes,  bananas,  yams,  and 
bread-fruit;  sugar-cane,  coccanuts,  awa,  gourds,  hogs,  fowls, 
geese,  large  white  pigeons.  Fourteen  years  afterward  we  find 
the  following  new  productions  :  water-melons,  musk-melons,  and 
goats.  I  have  taken  some  pains  to  ascertain  to  whom  the  Isl- 
ands are  indebted  for  these  productions. 

"Sunday,  February,  1778,  Cook  left  on  Niihau  goats,  hogs, 
seeds  of  pumpkins,  melons,  and  onions.  Captain  Calnet  left 
sheep  on  Kauai  before  Vancouver  arrived.  March  4,  1792,  Cap- 
tain Vancouver  left  a  vine,  orange-plants,  almonds,  and  garden 
seeds,  and  a  goat  and  kid  on  the  island  of  Hawaii,  for  Kaiana 
and  Keeaumaku.  February  4,  1793,  he  landed  cattle  and  sheep 
from  California  for  Kamehameha  1st." 

Among  the  rubbish  in  the  cellar  of  the  house  of  the 
premier,  Kekauluohi,  which  we  occupied  two  years,  was 
found  an  old  dilapidated  journal,  written  in  Spanish, 
which  Mr.  Wyllie  translated. 

It  appears  that  Don  Francisco  De  Paulo  Marin  came 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  1791.  The  first  entry  in  the 
journal  is  November  14,  1809.  He  speaks  of  making 
gardens  and  planting  pine-apples,  oranges,  beans,  cab- 
bages, fig-trees,  melons,  tobacco,  etc.,  and  making  cigars, 
kukui  oil,  candles,  hay;  and  of  acting  in  the  several 
capacities  of  butcher,  cook,  mason,  ship-carpenter,  and 
physician. 

"  June  27,  181 3. — Engaged  in  making  nails. 

"February  24,  181 5. — Engaged  in  planting  vines  for  the  king. 

"  July  6,  181 5. — Made  fifty-eight  gallons  of  wine. 

"  July  13,  181 5. — Made  five  flasks  of  brandy. 

"December,  181 5. — Made  a  barrel  of  beer. 

"December  30,  181 7. — Planted  coffee,  cotton,  made  pickles, 
lime,  soap,  molasses ;  sowed  wheat,  barley,  planted  cloves,  toma- 
toes, saffron,  cherries,  turnips,  pepper,  etc. 

"April  15,  1 8 19. — Sent  for  to  cure  the  king"  (with  whom  he 
resided  until  May  8th,  when  he  says),  "King  Kamehameha  ist 
died,  aged  sixty  years  and  six  months. 


The  Plant- B ringers.  217 


"August  iyth. — Engaged  in  selling  vegetables  to  a  French 
ship-of-war. 

"  September  22d. — They  brought  me  the  first  oranges,  though 
I  planted  the  seeds  eight  years  ago. 

"  November  \th. — Bartered  sandal-wood  for  rum. 

"  December  &tk. — Received  the  commission  of  captain. 

%t May  4,  1820. — This  day  arrived  a  middling-sized  brig,  called 
the  Thaddeus.  bringing  American  missionaries  to  these  Islands." 

It  is  enough  to  say  that  the  old  gentleman  lived  till 
October,  1837,  when  he  died  at  the  age  of  sixty-three.  I 
am  sorry  to  add  that  he  was  very  selfish  about  his  plants, 
never  parting  with  a  seed  or  slip,  if  he  could  avoid  it. 
When  he  trimmed  his  vines  and  roses,  he  would  make 
bonfires,  instead  of  distributing  among  others  what  he 
prized  so  highly  himself.  When  we  arrived  at  Honolulu, 
in  1828,  there  was  not  a  vine  or  fig-tree  to  be  found  out- 
side of  his  garden,  except  a  few  obtained  from  other 
sources.  A  farmer  accompanied  the  first  missionaries  to 
these  Islands,  who  brought  a  great  variety  of  plants  and 
seeds. 

Lord  Byron  brought  coffee  plants  from  Rio  Janeiro  in 
1824;  Captain  Little,  from  Batavia,  some  years  later. 
Richard  Charlton,  Esq.,  English  Consul,  brought  others 
from  Manilla,  which  Governor  Kekuanaoa  planted  in 
Manoa  Valley.  The  latter  were  the  parent  stock  of 
Hawaiian  coffee  plantations. 

In  August,  185 1,  it  was  stated,  on  good  authority, 
that  Hawaiian  produce  to  the  amount  of  four  hundred 
thousand  dollars  could  be  furnished  at  short  notice; 
but  unfortunately  the  market  was  over-stocked,  and  there 
were  no  purchasers  or  ships  to  take  it  to  California. 
Irish  potatoes  rotted  in  the  ground,  and  onions  and  other 
vegetables  scarcely  paid  the  expense  of  digging.  This 
was  very  discouraging  to  the  agriculturists  who  had  ex- 
10 


2 1 8  Honolulu. 


pected  to  realize  fortunes  speedily  by  turning  over  the 
soil. 

In  the  same  year  there  occurred  an  extraordinary 
eruption  from  the  crater  on  Mauna  Loa,  rolling  down 
the  sides  of  the  mountain  fourteen  thousand  feet,  sweeping 
everything  before  it,  bearing  trees  and  rocks  with  resist- 
less force  upon  its  bosom.  The  light  was  seen  seventy 
miles  at  sea,  and  reflected  shadows  distinctly  at  Kau, 
thirty  miles  off.  It  broke  out  with  a  tremendous  report, 
like  the  explosions  of  cannon. 

While  this  magnificent  display  of  fire-works  was  pouring 
out  of  nature's  great  laboratory  on  Hawaii,  the  cham- 
pions of  progress  across  the  channel,  at  the  metropolis, 
were  maintaining  a  spirited  paper  warfare  on  the  subject 
of  native  distilleries,  and  the  cultivation  of  the  grape  in 
order  to  make  wine ;  and  the  reduction  of  duty  on  spir- 
ituous liquors.' 

On  one  side  it  was  argued  that  high  duties  increased 
smuggling,  that  cheap  liquor  diminished  drunkenness, 
and  that  a  moderate  use  of  wine  was  Scriptural,  and  con 
ducive  to  benevolence  and  long  life.  These  arguments 
brought  down  an  avalanche  of  statistics  to  prove  a  con- 
trary  opinion.  The  contest  continued  week  after  week, 
and  month  after  month,  consuming  pages  of  our  weekly 
journal,  with  increasing  temperatures,  till  the  subject 
was  threadbare. 


XLIII. 

Filibusters— Report  of  Minister— Military  PrePara* 
tions— Counter  Arguments— The  Atmosphere  Clear' 
ing  up — Progress. 

1852. 

THE  increased  intercourse '  between  California  and 
the  Islands  led  to  an  intimate  acquaintance.    The 
knowledge  of  our  physical  weakness  had  well-nigh 
made  us  a  prey  to  our  daring  neighbors.     Our  little  com- 
munity was  thrown  into  spasms  by  reading  the  following 
in  a  California  paper : 

"  It  would  appear  that  our  eagles,  in  their  westward  flight, 
have  not  yet  found  a  resting-place. 

"  Several  young  eaglets  are  trimming  their  wings  for  a  flight 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  To  speak  plainly — it  is  said  that  a 
party  are  about  to  embark,  with  the  intention  of  settling  there. 
They  take  their  arms  with  them,  with  the  design  of  forcibly 
abolishing  the  monarchy,  and  establishing  a  republic." 

The  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations  made  the  following 
report  before  the  Hawaiian  Legislature,  April,  1852: 

"  .  .  .  .  Under  a  sense  of  loyalty  to  the  king,  it  became  my 
duty  to  lay  before  His  Majesty,  in  Privy  Council,  the  warnings  I 
had  received,  of  the  organization  in  San  Francisco  of  a  band  of 
adventurers,  with  the  intention  of  invading  this  kingdom. 
Where  the  danger  appeared  imminent,  it  did  not  seem  wise  to 
trust  entirely  to  the  protection  of  the  U.  S.  Commissioner  and  of 
their  naval  forces  in  the  harbor,  or  to  neglect  the  sound  and  friend- 
ly advice  of  Captain  G .  Accordingly,  on  the  10th  of  November 

last,  the  king  being  absent,  I  gave  notice  that  I  would  move  before 

(219) 


2  20  Honolulu. 


his  council  for  the  organization  of  a  force  of  thirteen  hundred 
men  for  the  Island  of  Hawaii,  eleven  hundred  for  Maui,  eighteen 
hundred  for  Oahu,  five  hundred  and  seventy  for  Kauai,  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  for  Molokai,  thirty  for  Niihau,  and  fifty  mounted 

lancers  in  Honolulu,  for  the  guard  of  His  Majesty's  person 

It  has  pleased  His  Majesty  to  create  the  crown  prince,  Alex- 
ander Liholiho,  his  Lieutenant-General  over  the  armed  forces  of 
his  Islands ;  and  to  appoint  Prince  Lot  Kamehameha  a  General 
of  Division. 

"  Now  it  occurs  to  me,  Ought  the  small  force,  organized  at  an 
expense  of  thirteen  thousand  five  hundred  dollars,  and  of  much 
labor  on  the  part  of  Lieutenant  Reed  (in  drilling)  to  be  kept  up, 
or  ought  it  to  be  disbanded  ?  Are  we,  who  were  rich  enough  to 
spend  twenty-five  thousand  eight  hundred  and  ninety-two  dol- 
lars, in  the  years  1850  and  '51,  for  the  support  of  public  schools, 
so  poor  now  that  we  can  not  continue  to  raise  money  for  the 
schools,  and  to  support  a  body  of  properly-armed  and  disci- 
plined men  to  quell  an  intestine  riot,  to  drive  off  pirates,  01 
repel  from  our  shores  a  band  of  desperadoes  bent  on  war  and 
plunder  on  private  account  ?  I  am  one  who  thinks  we  are  not. 
I  would  say,  Keep  up  tke  State,  and  let  every  district  or  parent 
support  its  own  schools." 

Other  friends,  equally  loyal  to  both  king  and  nation, 
argued  against  this  policy,  for  the  following  reasons : 

1st.  That  the  nation's  strength  is  not  and  can  not  be 
made  to  consist  in  physical  force,  but  in  moral  power ; 
and  the  more  we  rely  on  the  first  and  discard  the  second, 
the  weaker  we  shall  be. 

2d.  We  have  no  men  to  spare  for  the  indolent  life  of 
soldiers.  We  need  all  the  natives  for  work,  to  be  pro- 
ducers, and  not  mere  consumers. 

3*/.  The  expense  of  a  standing  army  would  drain  the 
treasury  and  involve  the  Government  in  a  debt  which 
would  ruin  it.  The  money  is  all  wanted  for  internal 
improvements,  such  as  building  bridges,  making  roads, 
improving  the  wharves,  and  in  erecting  a  new  prison, 
which  is  a  national  necessity. 


The  Question  of  Defences.  1 1 1 

4t/i.  Because  an  army  is  demoralizing,  fosters  vanity, 
promotes  discord,  and  weakens  the  sympathy  of  friends 
whose  aid  alone  can  sustain  us  in  the  right. 

A  well-organized,  strong  police  force  is  all  our  exi- 
gencies require,  and  this  we  have  without  troops. 

The  schoolmaster's  spelling-book  and  Bible  are  better 
than  swords  and  muskets ;  and  it  is  a  far  more  convinc- 
ing evidence  of  strength  and  civilization  to  know  that 
twenty  thousand  letters  are  passing  through  our  post- 
offices,  written  by  natives,  than  to  know  that  a  thousand 
men  can  keep  step  passably  to  fife  and  drum. 

Thanks  to  the  friendly  and  protective  policy  of  the 
Commissioner  of  the  United  States,  the  Hon.  L.  Sever- 
ance, who  detained  the  United  States  ship-of-war  Van- 
dalia  in  port  all  winter,  the  king's  Government  was  un- 
molested, and  families  felt  secure  from  any  sudden  sur- 
prise or  invasion.  A  few  suspicious  persons  appeared, 
but  the  only  misdemeanor  proved  against  them  was  ab- 
stracting some  letters  from  the  mail-bag  on  their  way 
hither,  by  which  they  hoped  to  escape  an  unpleasant 
introduction. 


XLIV. 

A  Dark  Chapter—  The  Small-pox— How  Introduced 
— Vaccination  —  Board  of  Health  —  Sedition  Fo~ 
mented —  Indignation  Meetings  —  Committee  of 
Thirteen — Petitions — Panic  at  the  Palace — Resig- 
nation of  the  Ministers — A  Torchlight  Procession 
— Dr.  Judd  a  Private  Citizen— Letter  from  La- 
haina. 

1853. 

IT  is  always  a  pity  to  stir  up  the  muddy  pools  of  the 
past,  especially  when  once  fairly  settled.  I  prefer 
the  sunny  side  of  life,  and  leave  those  whose  tastes 
it  may  suit  to  open  up  dark  dens  to  public  view,  and 
rake  in  noisome  gutters  for  aliment. 

Unhappily,  life  is  not  all  sunshine,  but  clouds  and 
shadows  must  form  a  part  of  its  history,  to  remind  us 
that  we  are  pilgrims  in  a  sin-stricken  world. 

Early  in  the  summer  of  1853  that  terrible  pestilence, 
the  small-pox,  made  its  appearance  in  our  beautiful 
islands;  how  or  whence  introduced  is  still  a  mystery. 
It  is  supposed  that  the  infection  was  brought  in  some 
trunks  of  old  clothes  sold  at  auction  and  scattered 
among  the  natives.  The  first  victims  were  two  women, 
who  washed  some  of  these  articles.  The  first  cases 
were  so  light  as  not  to  be  noticed  or  known  till  a  whole 
neighborhood  had  been  infected ;  and  before  efficient 
sanitary  regulations  could  be  enforced,  the  victims,  in 
their  ignorance  and  fright,  had  scattered  the  infection 
far  and  wide. 

Great  efforts  had  been  made  in  tormer  years  to  vacci. 
(222) 


The  Small-pox  Epidemic.  223 

nate  the  people  very  extensively,  and  thus  avert  a  calam- 
ity so  much  to  be  dreaded.  Medical  men  and  mission- 
aries had  taken  great  pains  to  procure  vaccine  virus; 
but  a  long  sea  voyage  often  injured  its  vitality  or  de- 
stroyed it  altogether.  When  obtained,  the  very  best 
depreciated  rapidly  in  the  native  system,  affording  pro- 
tection to  a  few  hundreds  only  before  losing  all  its 
virtue. 

When  the  fact  became  known  that  the  disease  was 
here,  prompt  measures  were  adopted  by  the  authorities 
to  arrest  and  confine  its  progress,  and  ameliorate  the  suf- 
ferings of  its  victims.  An  ample  appropriation  of  money 
was  made  to  purchase  suitable  food  and  medicine,  and  a 
committee  was  chosen  to  visit  and  distribute  them. 

It  is  sickening  to  recall  those  days,  when  a  little  patch 
of  yellow  calico,  waving  on  a  pole,  indicated  pestilence 
and  suffering  within.  The  Board  of  Health  and  under- 
takers were  busy  men.  Physicians  and  the  visiting  com- 
mittee bowed  down  and  became  at  times  utterly  pros- 
trate in  their  untiring  efforts  by  night  and  by  day  to  dis- 
pense medicine,  food,  and  comfort.  The  Pale  Horse 
and  his  rider  strode  on,  counting  the  vanquished  by 
thousands,  in  spite  of  human  effort,  till  the  destroying^ 
angel  had  finished  his  work. 

There  were  those  who  saw  and  acknowledged  the 
hand  of  God  in  this  visitation,  and  hastened  to  bow 
themselves  in  prayer  and  penitence.  A  portion  of  the 
foreign  element  in  Honolulu,  I  regret  to  say,  took  this 
occasion  to  foment  strife,  sedition,  and  other  evil  work. 
That  ubiquitous  family  of  croakers  had  its  representa- 
tives, who  affirmed  that  the  direful  disease  would  never 
be  eradicated  in  such  a  climate.  Ships  would  forsake 
forever  our  once  sunny  isles.  Our  commercial  prospects 
were  entirely  ruined,  and  the  nation's  doom  sealed. 


224  Honolulu. 


Indignation  meetings  were  held,  and  inflammatory 
speeches  addressed  to  the  rabble.  A  committee  of  thir 
teen  was  chosen  to  revolutionize  the  Government,  and 
reconstruct  it  to  suit  themselves.  The  first  act  was  to 
fix  upon  a  victim  on  whom  to  charge  the  calamity. 
The  lot  fell  upon  the  Rev.  R.  Armstrong  and  Dr.  G.  P. 
Judd,  two  men  who  perhaps  had  done  more  than  any- 
other  to  avoid  it.  They  were  accused  of  introducing  the 
scourge,  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  the  people.  They 
were  stigmatized  as  traitors  and  wholesale  murderers  of 
the  deepest  dye,  and  no  pains  were  spared  to  rouse  the 
natives,  and  exasperate  them  to  deeds  of  revenge.  Peti- 
tions were  addressed  to  the  king,  to  remove  them  from 
office,  under  vague  and  unfounded  charges.  Agents 
were  hired  to  take  the  petitions  around  the  island  for 
signatures,  under  various  pretenses;  some  signed,  ex- 
pecting relief  from  taxes;  others  supposed  the  census 
was  being  taken,  and  very  few  discerned  the  truth  from 
falsehood. 

I  would  not  drag  before  the  public  the  names  of  those 
who  suggested,  at  the  sitting  of  the  Secret  Tribunal,  the 
idea  of  tearing  a  father  from  his  family,  and  at  the  hour 
of  midnight,  without  judge  or  jury,  commit  him  in  an 
open  boat  to  the  broad  ocean,  unprovided  with  oars, 
food,  or  water !  I  had  this  confession  from  the  lips  of 
one  of  the  Thirteen.  May  God  forgive  them,  as  I  do, 
and  as  I  hope  to  be  forgiven.  To  the  credit  of  human- 
ity, be  it  said,  some  of  the  actors  in  these  scenes  were 
strangers  in  the  land  and  grossly  misled.  They  saw 
their  folly  too  late,  and  lived  to  regret  it. 

The  leaders  were  men  of  selfish  ambition,  with  little 
to  lose  and  much  to  gain.  If  successful  in  revolution- 
izing the  Government,  they  hoped  to  fill  their  pockets 
with  spoils,  and  then  annex  the  Islands  to  the  United 


A  Secret   Tribunal.  225 

States.  The  native  rulers  were  cajoled  and  threatened 
by  turns,  and  promised,  that  by  sacrificing  the  obnox- 
ious ministers,  peace  and  harmony  would  be  restored. 

One  day  the  sheriff,  an  Englishman,  was  seized  by 
three  of  the  Thirteen,  kept  a  close  prisoner  for  some 
hours,  thoroughly  frightened,  and  made  to  believe  that 
unless  the  Minister  of  Finance  at  least  resigned,  blood 
would  be  shed.  This  bold  move  produced  a  panic  at 
the  palace.  Field -pieces  were  hastily  dragged  in  at 
night  to  protect  the  person  of  the  king,  whose  life  was 
supposed  to  be  in  danger.  The  old  heroes,  Hoapili, 
Kaahumanu,  and  Kuakini,  were  in  their  graves,  and  the 
race  of  Hawaiian  braves  was  nearly  extinct.  Wearied 
with  turmoil,  and  overcome  with  strong  drink,  the  king 
sent  a  messenger  for  Dr.  Judd  one  evening,  and  de- 
manded his  resignation.  This  was  very  unexpected 
surely,  but  as  the  royal  wish  was  about  to  be  complied 
with  on  the  following  morning,  persons  of  rank  and  in- 
fluence requested  him  to  wait  a  little,  as  other  counsels 
were  likely  to  prevail  with  the  king. 

Such  was  the  attitude  of  affairs,  when,  for  reasons  best 
known  and  approved  by  themselves,  the  other  ministers 
of  the  Cabinet  sent  in  their  commissions  to  the  king. 
Dr.  Judd  did  the  same.  He  was  the  more  ready  to  re- 
tire from  the  Government  service  (although  he  consid- 
ered the  manner  in  which  it  was  brought  about  dishon- 
orable), as  the  candidate  for  his  office  was  an  experienced 
lawyer,  and  in  every  way  qualified  to  cope  with  the  in- 
trigues of  the  time. 

The  august  Thirteen  were  checkmated,  although  they 
boasted  of  triumph  and  victory.  A  torchlight  procession 
with  music  and  banners  paraded  the  town,  and  called  at 
the  house  of  the  new  incumbent,  with  speeches  and 
hurrahs.  The  following  is  the  preamble  to  one  of  the 
10* 


226  Honolulu. 


resolutions  passed  at  their  last  meeting,  after  which  they 
disbanded : 

"  Whereas,  The  relief  of  a  people  from  bondage  and  a  malig- 
nant tyranny,  and  a  transition  into  the  enjoyment  of  the  delight- 
ful influences  of  liberty,  free  conscience,  and  independent  actions, 
justify  a  public  demonstration  of  joy,"  etc. 

Sentiments  which  need  no  comment. 

Relief  from  the  cares  of  State,  endured  for  years 
through  a  sea  of  troubles,  was  sweeter  than  the  friend- 
ship of  kings.  Dr.  Judd  remarked  one  day  to  a  friend, 
that  he  thought  few  generals  ever  came  off  from  so  long 
a  campaign  with  fewer  scars  or  less  injury  to  their  uni- 
forms. 


XLV. 

Hopes  of  Annexation— A  Fourth  of  July  Celebration 
— Death  of  Kamehameha  III.— His  Character— A 
Commoner1  s  Biography. 

ON  the  4th  of  July,  1854,  the  foreign  community 
expressed  their  hopes  of  annexation  by  a  grand 
celebration  of  the  day.  A  car,  decorated  with 
evergreens,  in  which  were  seated  thirty-two  girls  of  Amer- 
ican parentage,  dressed  in  white,  wreathed  in  flowers, 
each  bearing  the  name  of  a  State  on  her  sash,  in  large 
gold  letters,  was  drawn  by  a  power  unseen.  Next  fol- 
lowed "  Young  America,"  a  company  of  very  young  men 
in  uniform,  with  another  triumphal  chariot,  on  which  was 
placed  a  beautiful  boy,  the  very  personification  of  health, 
strength,  and  beauty.  "  Young  Hawaii "  was  in  tow, 
and  represented  by  a  boat  gaily  trimmed,  in  which  were 
eight  young  native  lads,  fancifully  dressed,  and  carelessly 
eating  sugar-cane. 

The  procession  marched  through  the  principal  streets 
to  the  stone  church,  where  an  eloquent  address  was  de- 
livered by  the  American  Commissioner,  in  which  it  was 
more  than  hinted  that  a  new  star  was  about  to  be  added 
to  the  glorious  constellation. 

The  signatures  were  yet  wanting ;  His  Majesty  more 
determined  and  impatient  than  ever,  when  he  was  taken 
suddenly  ill,  and  died  in  three  weeks.* 


*  A  statute  was  passed  at  this  time  by  both  Houses  of  the  Legislature, 
authorizing  the  alienation  of  the  sovereignty  upon  certain  contingencies. 
The  possibility  of  this  happening  tended,  probably,  more  than  anj 

(227) 


228  Honolulu. 


It  can  not  be  denied  that  the  character  of  King  Kaui 
keaouli  was  marred  by  grave  faults.  It  must  also  be 
admitted  that  he  possessed  virtues,  and  many  noble 
traits  of  heart  and  mind.  His  friendships  were  true  and 
faithful.  He  was  generous  to  a  fault,  and  his  heart  was 
tender  and  loving  as  a  woman's.  He  was  merciful  and 
shrunk  from  the  sight  of  human  suffering,  having  great 
regard  for  human  life.  It  is  a  little  remarkable  that  in 
all  the  civil  dissensions  and  foreign  raids  which  occurred 
during  his  reign,  not  one  life  was  lost,  nor  a  drop  of  blood 
spilt. 

After  his  Government  was  established,  he  never  com- 
promised the  State,  nor  disclosed  State  secrets,  even  in 
his  revels  among  designing  tempters.  In  times  of  peril 
and  difficulty,  he  always  sought  the  advice  of  men  of 
unquestioned  integrity  and  unswerving  virtue.  He  did 
not   intrust  important  offices   to   men  of   loose  morals 


thing  else,  to  alienate  Kamehamehas  IV.  and  V.  from  all  those  whom 
they  thought  would  favor  such  a  scheme.  Late  events  have  shown 
that,  with  a  favorable  Treaty  of  Reciprocity  with  the  United  States, 
the  native  Government  can  be  upheld,  and  prosperity  and  security 
maintained.  For  the  last  twenty-five  years  no  one  has  seriously  de- 
sired annexation.  An  independent  native  sovereignty  has  thus  far 
given  persons  of  all  nationalities,  residing  at  the  Islands,  ample  pro- 
tection, and  every  lover  of  the  Hawaiian  race  must  rejoice  in  the  pres- 
ervation of  its  autonomy  for  these  many  years  past.  It  would  be  dif- 
ficult to  find  a  country  where  the  sentiment  of  nationality  is  stronger 
than  among  the  aboriginal  Hawaiian s  ;  but  the  preservation  of  the 
native  Government  is  due,  not  so  much  to  this  sentiment,  as  to  the 
unwavering  efforts  of  the  early  foreign  advisers  of  Kamehameha  III. 
to  maintain  the  Hawaiian  State,  independent  of  dictation,  free  from 
protectorates,  and  without  "residents"  of  foreign  powers.  Between 
1830  and  1850  there  were  several  crises  when  a  single  misstep, 
or  even  a  single  deflection  from  loyalty  to  principle,  on  the  part  of  the 
king's  advisers,  would  have  been  fatal  to  the  existence  of  the  king- 
dom.—A.  F.  J. 


Kamehameha  III.  229 

or  known  corrupt  principles.  He  adopted  the  advice 
of  Ferielon  to  his  royal  pupil,  and  chose  for  his  coun- 
selors men  who  dare  contradict  his  opinions,  and  who 
cared  more  for  his  reputation  and  prosperity  than  his 
favor. 

He  did  not  profess  himself  to  be  a  religious  man,  in 
the  strict  sense  of  the  word,  yet  he  fostered  the  element 
among  his  people  by  treating  their  religious  teachers 
with  great  respect,  and  in  attendance  upon  public  wor- 
ship, where  he  listened  with  attention  and  reverence. 
He  frequently  addressed  public  assemblies,  always  ex- 
horting the  people  to  attend  to  instruction,  to  read  the 
Word  of  God,  and  practice  what  he  said  to  them,  and 
not  to  follow  his  example,  which  was  wrong. 

His  powers  of  observation  were  remarkably  keen,  and 
the  amount  of  general  knowledge  he  picked  up,  of  his- 
tory, men,  and  things,  was  quite  astonishing,  especially 
as  his  knowledge  of  the  English  language  was  very  lim- 
ited. 

Among  his  first  public  acts  was  a  solemn  dedication 
of  his  kingdom  to  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  A  book  of  re- 
membrance is  kept,  and  let  the  future  of  the  Hawaiian 
nation  be  what  it  may,  the  King  of  kings  will  regard  the 
record,  when  all  earthly  thrones,  and  kingdoms,  and 
principalities  are  overturned,  and  their  names  blotted 
out. 

As  no  exact  information  could  be  obtained  as  to  when 
King  Kauikeaouli  was  born,  it  was  resolved  in  Privy 
Council,  as  before  stated,  that  the  17th  of  March  be  ob- 
served as  a  holiday,  in  commemoration  of  the  event. 
His  mother  was  Keopuolani,  wife  of  Kalaniopuu,  King 
of  Hawaii  at  the  time  of  Captain  Cook's  visit.  He  was 
slain  by  Kamehameha  1st,  and  she  became  the  wife  of 
the  conqueror.     She  was  the  first  Christian  convert,  was 


230  Honolulu. 


baptized  by  Rev.  William  Ellis,  at  Lahaina,  and  died 
September  16,  1823.  She  left  three  children  —  Liho< 
liho,  Kauikeaouli,  and  a  daughter,  Nahienaena.  King 
Kauikeaouli  died  at  Honolulu,  December  15,  1854,  was 
laid  in  state  at  the  palace  till  January  10,  1855,  when  his 
funeral  was  attended  with  great  pomp  and  magnificence. 
Wrapped  in  the  feather  cloak  of  his  ancestors,  his  body 
was  placed  in  the  royal  tomb,  where  he  sleeps  with  his 
fathers. 

The  following  is  a  scrap  of  native  biography : 

Old  Hawaii  is  a  native  of  East  Maui.  He  can  not  tell 
what  year  he  was  born.  Has  lived  with  his  present  wife 
forty  years.  He  was  trained  to  dance  the  hula,  and  play 
a  game  of  skill  called  moa.  He  did  little  else  than  prac- 
tice these  Hawaiian  accomplishments  till  he  arrived  at 
the  maturity  of  manhood. 

His  attention  was  first  attracted  to  the  palapala  and 
religious  things  on  hearing  read,  in  his  own  language, 
the  first  lines  in  their  first  printed  book : 

"  Go  and  sin  no  more. 

Cease  to  do  evil— learn  to  do  well." 

He  had  suffered  for  several  years  with  •  a  diseased 
hand.  In  1829  he  had  it  amputated,  and  recovered  his 
early  vigor.  His  gratitude  to  the  surgeon  who  performed 
the  operation  was  unbounded  and  very  remarkable.  For 
a  period  of  twelve  years  he  did  not  fail  once  to  bring  a 
weekly  token  of  it,  in  kalo,  sweet  potatoes,  or  sugar-cane  ; 
and  remembers  his  benefactor  up  to  the  present  time 
(1861),  in  an  occasional  offering.  The  children  call  him 
one  of  their  "  institutions." 

His  piety  is  of  no  ordinary  character.     He  has  nevei 


A   Scrap  of  Native  Biography.  231 


relapsed  into  any  old  habits,  nor  grown  careless  in  re. 
ligious  duties.  Once,  when  I  was  very  ill,  he  came  to 
my  room  unbidden.  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  him  as  he 
was  entering,  but  feeling  too  weak  to  talk,  closed  my 
eyes  and  feigned  sleep.  He  stood  one  moment,  then 
went  to  a  distant  part  of  the  room,  kneeled  down  and 
prayed  in  such  soft,  subdued,  earnest  tones,  that  I  might 
be  spared  to  my  husband,  children,  friends,  native  neigh- 
bors, and  have  long  years  yet  to  fill  with  usefulness  and 
devotion,  that  I  forgave  the  intrusion  from  my  heart, 
long  before  he  had  finished  his  supplications. 

When  we  were  about  to  break  the  family  circle,  for  a 
short  visit  to  the  fatherland,  in  1855,  he  came,  with  many 
others,  to  express  his  parting  aloha.  I  said  to  him: 
"  We  are  about  to  embark  on  the  ocean,  to  visit  lands 
where  we  shall  be  strangers.  My  heart  is  heavy.  I  have 
many  fears,  lest  our  family,  thus  broken  up  and  separated, 
will  never  all  meet  again  in  our  tropic  home."  He  re- 
garded me  in  sober,  quiet  earnestness  for  a  moment,  as 
if  collecting  his  thoughts,  then  he  said :  •'  When  Dr. 
Judd  and  the  young  princes  went  to  foreign  lands,  did 
not  we,  native  Christians  up  the  valley  here,  have  a 
morning  prayer-meeting  all  the  while  they  were  absent, 
in  their  behalf  ?  Did  not  I  make  a  tour  of  this  island, 
and  Molokai  also,  to  stir  up  native  Christian  kindred,  to 
supplicate  unitedly  the  blessing  and  protection  of  God 
for  them  ?  Did  they  not  go  and  return  in  health  and 
safety?  God  hears  the  united  prayers  of  His  children, 
and  always  will  hear  them.  Now,  you  go  right  along,  in 
the  plain  path  of  duty.  Never  fear  if  the  winds  blow 
or  the  sea  rages  around  you  ;  nothing  will  harm  you,  for 
we  shall  bear  you  up  like  this,"  (holding  up  his  one  hand 
and  mutilated  arm). 

I  felt  humbled  and  comforted  by  the  expression  of 


232  Honolulu. 


such  simple  trust  in  God  in  this  old  man,  born  and 
trained  in  heathenish,  degrading  worship  of  idols.  Dur 
ing  fourteen  months  of  absence  and  travel,  often  in  un 
tried  and  startling  scenes,  my  mind  reverted  to  old 
Hawaii,*  and  the  band  of  Christians  daily  pleading  for 
us  in  our  far-off  Pacific  home. 


*  He  died  in  1875 — probably  a  hundred  years  old. 


XLVI. 

Honolulu  in  1861 — Statistics —  Census — Buildings-* 
The  Queen's  Hospital — Markets  —  Lawyers  and 
Doctors — King  Kamehameha  IV. — A  Free  Press— 
The  Catholics — A  musements— Climate — Cemetery 
—The  People— Present  Wants. 

A  YOUNG  lawyer  in  Brooklyn  asked  me,  during  my 
late  visit  there,  "  What  kind  of  a  place  is  Hono- 
lulu ?  I  can  only  think  of  the  Sandwich  Islands 
as  the  place  where  Cook  was  killed  and  eaten,  and  as 
now  containing  but  two  classes  of  people — our  American 
missionaries  and  the  heathen."  I  assured  him  the 
Hawaiians  were  never  a  nation  of  cannibals ;  that  they 
did  not  eat  Captain  Cook.  His  body  was  dissected,  ac- 
cording to  native  custom,  his  heart  placed  on  a  tree  to 
dry,  where,  as  I  have  already  said,  it  was  discovered  by 
a  passer-by,  stolen  and  eaten,  under  the  mistaken  idea 
that  it  was  a  swine's  heart. 

Honolulu,  on  the  Island  of  Oahu,  is  the  metropolis  of 
the  kingdom.  Its  harbor  is  safe  and  capacious,  and  will 
always  be  a  favorite  resort  for  ships  in  the  Pacific.  The 
island  itself  is  nearly  as  large  as  Long  Island,  I  should 
think,  but  with  high,  well-wooded  mountains  in  the  cen- 
ter. Its  rivers  are  mere  mountain  torrents,  dwindling  in 
the  dry  season  to  tiny  brooks. 

Honolulu  contains  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  one-third 
of  them  foreigners.  There  are  five  churches,  three  school- 
houses,  a  few  good  stores,  and  many  shops  where  goods 
are  sold.     It  can  boast  of  two  printing-offices,  a  Sailor's 

(233) 


234  Honolulu. 


Home,  a  steam  mill,  hotels,  restaurants,  mechanics'  shops, 
a  theater,  a  bank,  a  hospital,  a  palace,  and  a  prison.  The 
palace  is  not  equal  to  Buckingham,  nor  the  Tuileries, 
but  is  spacious  and  well  furnished,  and  in  keeping  with 
the  royal  revenue.  The  best-looking  buildings  are  the 
prison  and  the  "  Queen's  Hospital."  All  honor  to  the 
noble-minded  woman  who  devised  the  latter — a  befitting 
expression  truly  of  her  pure  and  generous  heart.  And 
not  to  the  sovereigns  alone  be  accorded  all  the  merit  of 
this  institution,  but  to  the  foreign  community  also,  whose 
generous  philanthropy  is  an  ever-flowing  stream,  glad- 
dening the  hearts  of  many  a  pilgrim  and  wandering 
prodigal. 

The  markets  furnish  beef  which  even  Englishmen 
praise ;  mutton,  pork,  poultry,  fruit  and  vegetables,  nice 
enough  to  suit  any  palate,  while  amateur  gardeners  and 
floriculturists  produce  bouquets,  as  fragrant  and  beauti- 
ful as  ever  graced  the  boudoir  of  our  Mother  Eve. 

The  town  is  supplied  with  an  abundance  of  pure  water, 
brought  in  iron  pipes  from  the  valley  springs.  It  has 
been  partially  supplied  with  gas  and  ice,  also. 

There  are  about  a  dozen  lawyers,  some  of  them  natives ; 
and  as  many  more  physicians,  all  of  whom  manage  to 
live— some,  to  acquire  fortunes. 

To  the  young  lady  who  inquired,  "  What  kind  of  a 
person  is  the  young  king?"*  I  would  say  he  is  quite 
European  in  his  tastes  and  manners.  Few  young  men 
are  more  fortunate  in  command  of  ready  compliment 
and  good  English. 

He  was  not  crowned  on  coming  into  power,  like 
European  kings,  but  simply  inaugurated,  something  after 
the   manner  of    the  President  of    the   United  States. 


*Kamehameha  IV. 


Kamehameha  IV.  235 


Chief  Justice  Lee  administered  the  oath  of  office.  It 
was  an  interesting  ceremony,  the  youthful  monarch  not 
yet  twenty-one,  in  a  handsome,  heavily-embroidered 
uniform,  bowing  before  the  chief  justice,  as  he  solemnly 
pledged  himself  to  govern  according  to  the  Constitution 
and  laws.  Judge  Lee  wore  a  suit  of  plain  black,  his 
honest  face  bespeaking  his  New  England  origin. 

The  press  is  free,  and  the  expression  of  public  opinion 
untrammeled.  All  religions  are  tolerated.  The  Catholics 
own  an  extensive  group  of  buildings  in  the  very  heart  of 
the  city,  where  they  live,  worship,  and  where  twelve  Sis- 
ters of  the  Sacred  Heart  are  employed  in  teaching  chil- 
dren, both  native  and  foreign,  and  in  various  other  duties 
usual  in  such  establishments.  The  priests  are  stationed 
all  over  the  group,  at  the  side  of  every  Protestant  insti- 
tution. 

To  the  young  lady  who  asked  my  daughter,  "  What 
amusements  have  you?  Have  you  ever  seen  a  piano 
before  ?  "  I  would  say,  an  amateur  musical  society  has 
been  established  several  years.  Its  members  hold  weekly 
rehearsals,  and  give  a  concert  to  invited  guests  once  a 
month.  They  sing  solos,  duets,  quartettes,  and  choruses 
from  operas  and  oratorios,  with  piano,  violin,  and  flute 
music.  This  society  is  favored  at  present  with  the  in- 
structions of  a  French  gentleman  of  the  highest  musical 
culture,  who  was  so  unfortunate  as  to  be  on  the  unpop- 
ular side  of  politics  when  the  French  republic  became 
an  empire.  In  nearly  every  foreigner's  house  in  town 
there  is  a  piano-forte  and  sewing-machine. 

There  are  ladies,  native  born,  who  reside  in  elegant, 
well-furnished  houses,  entertain  company,  give  parties, 
and  whose  affable  and  dignified  manners  would  grace 
any  court  or  country. 

For  amusements  we  have  school  festivals  and  exam- 


236  Honolulu. 


inations,  agricultural  exhibitions,  ladies'  fancy  fairs, 
moonlight  rides  on  horseback,  sea  bathing  at  the  fash- 
ionable watering-place,  Waikiki,  balls  and  parties  for 
those  who  wish  them,  and  two  sewing  societies.  The 
object  of  one  of  these  societies  is  to  aid  sick  and  destitute 
strangers,  so  often  cast  upon  our  shores ;  the  other  ap- 
propriates its  funds  to  any  desirable  object  of  benevo- 
lence. Each  of  these  meet  monthly,  and  both  are  popular 
and  flourishing. 

It  may  be  said,  with  some  qualification,  that  our  sun 
always  shines,  our  trees  are  always  green,  our  trade-winds 
always  blow,  our  atmosphere  is  always  pure.  Yet  it 
must  be  confessed  that  no  one,  even  here,  has  discovered 
the  secret  of  Calypso's  fountain,  where  mortals  can  bathe 
and  flourish  in  an  eternal  spring-time.  A  little  way  up 
Nuuanu  Valley  is  a  cemetery  for  foreigners,  with  its 
avenues  of  evergreens,  and  marble  monuments,  "  In 
Memoriam."  Representatives  of  every  nation  on  the 
globe  are  among  the  sleepers  in  that  vale  of  rest  and 
equality. 

The  little  Hawaiian  kingdom  is  certainly  an  anomaly 
among  earthly  Governments.  Antagonistic  races  dwell 
together  on  the  same  footing,  under  the  same  laws,  justly 
and  equally  administered,  and  in  comparative  harmony. 
Distinction  of  color  does  not  mar  social  intercourse,  nor 
as  yet  create  jealous  animosities,  thanks  to  the  self-de- 
nying pioneers  for  this  felicitous  starting-point. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  poor  native  Hawaiian 
could  not  have  had  a  few  more  years  for  quiet  improve- 
ment in  his  own  way  to  accumulate  a  little  moral  energy 
(enervated  as  he  had  become  by  generations  of  absolute 
heathenism)  before  entering  the  lists  with  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  competitor,  backed  as  he  is  by  a  long  ancestry  of 
civilized  and  vigorous  manhood. 


The  Haivaiian   Character.  237 

The  Hawaiian  is  yielding  in  temper,  always  good 
humored,  generous,  and  gentle.  But  with  some  shrewd 
ness  and  keen  powers  of  observation,  he  lacks  stamina 
that  reliability  of'  character  which  distinguishes  the  peo 
pie  of  England,  old  and  new.  He  lacks  thrift,  that  Yan 
kee  trait  which  knows  how  to  make  one  dollar  into  two 
To  supply  the  want  of  to-day,  is  his  only  care.  He  is 
imitative  and  very  susceptible  to  surrounding  influences. 

The  great  national  want  is  not  a  standing  army  nor  a 
foreign  loan  to  meet  State  expenses,  nor  more  ample 
provision  for  the  support  of  English  schools,  to  urge  on 
the  forcing  process,  nor  more  liberty,  nor  better  laws, 
nor  a  lighter  taxation ;  but  a  generation  of  uncontami- 
nated  Hawaiian  mothers,  with  their  Bible  in  their  own 
language,  their  family  altar,  unambitious  for  foreign  ac- 
complishments and  luxury,  and  willing  to  perform  with 
their  own  hands  the  humble  but  elevating  duties  of  the 
household. 

Thrice  blessed  is  the  man,  or  woman,  whose  example 
is  safe  for  imitation,  and  who  is  ready  to  extend  a  help- 
ing hand  to  the  Hawaiian  in  his  efforts  to  climb  the 
upward  path  to  the  attainment  of  a  more  refined  civili- 
zation and  Christianity. 


APPENDIX    I. 


[The  following  letter  from  Dr.  Judd  to  his  former  colleague  in  office, 
Mr.  R.  C.  Wyllie,  is  an  epitome  of  the  Doctor's  political  life  in  the 
Hawaiian  kingdom,  and  displays  his  characteristics  so  strikingly,  that 
it  is  deemed  proper  to  publish  it  here.] 

Honolulu,  February  17,  i860. 
My  dear  Wyllie: 

You  enquire  of  me  respecting  the  agency  I  had  in  the  early 
organization  of  the  Hawaiian  Government. 

This  agency  commenced  imperceptibly  after  the  death  of 
Kaahumanu,  whom  I  always  attended  as  physician,  but  who 
seldom  required  my  services  in  any  other  capacity.  After 
her  death,  the  late  King*  adopted  Kaomi,  a  Tahitian,  as  his 
counsellor  and  Minister,  who  introduced  the  distillation  of 
okolehao,f  the  abrogation  of  marriage,  the  idea  that  the  will 
of  the  King  was  the  law  of  the  land,  and  other  evils,  to  please 
the  King  and  flatter  the  people. 

Kinau,t  the  mother  of  the  present  King,  finding  herself 
thus  displaced  from  the  office  of  Kuhina,  which  was  hers  by 
right  of  birth,  came  to  my  house  on  one  occasion,  requesting 
that  Mrs.  Judd  and  myself  would  receive  her  as  a  member 


*  Kauikeaouli,  or  Kamehameha  III. 

f  V  Okolehao,"  the  native  term  for  liquor  distilled  from  the  roots  of 
the  ti  plant  (draccena). 

X  Kinau,  being  the  oldest  surviving  daughter  of  Kamehameha  I., 
was  entitled  by  Hawaiian  custom  to  the  office  of  "  Kuhina"  or  Prime 
Minister,  or  Premier,  as  it  was  called  in  later  times.  The  Kuhina 
originally  had  sovereign  authority  jointly  with  the  King. 

(239) 


240  Appendix  I. 


of  the  family.  She  had  become  disgusted  with  the  state  of 
things,  and  since  the  King  preferred  the  advice  of  Kaomi, 
she  had  determined  to  retire  into  private  life. 

We  endeavored  to  convince  her  that  such  a  course  was 
wrong;  that  she  had  a  responsibility  resting  upon  her  and  a 
duty  to  perform,  both  to  the  King  and  the  nation,  which 
required  immediate  and  prudent  action.  Our  arguments  con- 
vinced her.  By  our  advice  she  presented  herself  before  the 
King  and  claimed  her  rights,  which  were  acknowledged,  and 
she  was  in  due  time  proclaimed  as  Kuhina. 

The  birth  of  the  present  King,*  February  9,  1834,  and  his 
immediate  adoption  as  his  heir  by  the  King,  took  place  in 
my  presence,  an  act  which  secured  the  rights  of  Kinau  and 
the  fall  of  Kaomi.  Such  having  been  the  good  results  of  the 
advice  she  had  received  and  followed,  Kinau,  from  that  time 
to  the  day  of  her  death,  became  our  warmest  friend,  and 
claimed  from  me  the  best  advice  and  assistance  I  could 
afford  on  all  important  occasions.  In  March,  1834,  by  her 
urgent  request,  I  accompanied  the  Princess  Nahienaena  on  a 
tour  of  the  island  of  Oahu.  She  was  accompanied  by  Hoa- 
pili,  Liliha,  Kekauluohi,  Kekauonohi  and  a  large  retinue  of 
minor  chiefs  and  people.  The  King  and  Kaomi  were  with 
us  a  part  of  the  time  (which  we  spent  at  Ewa),  behaving  in  a 
most  disgraceful  manner,  but  none  of  the  party  of  the  Princess 
were  led  away  by  their  example. 

After  about  -ten  days  at  Ewa  we  took  leave  of  the  King, 
and  went  on  our  journey,  stopping  at  the  different  villages ; 
and  the  people  being  assembled  in  great  numbers,  were  al- 
ways addressed  by  Hoapili,  sometimes  by  the  Princess  and 
myself,  with  a  view  of  influencing  them  to  avoid  intemper- 
ance and  give  attention  to  instruction.  All  the  distilleries 
(which  were  nothing  more  than  an  iron  pot  and  a  gun-barrel, 
or  other  tube)  were  overthrown  and  destroyed  by  the*  orders 
of  Hoapili,  and  from  that  time  they  have  been  unknown  on 


*  The  late  Alexander  Liholiho   Kamebameha  IV.     (See  p.  249). 


Honolulu.  241 


these  islands.  Kinau  died  in  1839.  During  these  five  years 
I  was  employed  as  her  interpreter,  aiding  in  a  variety  of 
matters  necessary  to  the  existence  of  the  Government,  al- 
though most  imperfect  and  rude.  A  small  building  was 
erected,  in  which  were  opened  records  of  decisions  of  jus- 
tices, accounts  of  taxes  to  be  paid  over  to  the  King,  registry 
of  vessels,  letters  from  consuls,  etc.,  and  the  services  of  a 
number  of  clerks,  among  whom  was  the  present  Governor  of 
Kauai,*  were  constantly  required.  Kekuanaoaf  was  over 
these  clerks,  and  I  instructed  him  how  to  do  their  business 
in  the  Hawaiian  language.  Here,  then,  the  Government  had 
a  locality.  Here  came  the  consuls  to  make  their  complaints, 
and  the  commanders  of  ships  of  war  to  make  and  enforce 
their  demands ;  and  although  there  was  no  treasury,  and  no 
visible  means  of  paying  debts  or  remunerating  public  officers, 
the  Premier's  office  was  of  the  utmost  importance. 

Kekauluohi,  succeeding  Kinau,  continued  to  do  business 
in  the  same  manner  through  Kekuanaoa,  to  whom  by  this 
time  I  had  become  a  constant  assistant. 

Mr.  Richards  entered  the  service  of  the  King  as  interpreter, 
and  was  faithfully  employed  at  Lahaina  in  delivering  to  the 
King  and  some  of  his  young  men  a  course  of  lectures  on 
political  economy  and  in  arranging  a  constitution  and  laws, 
services  highly  important ;  but  this  did  not  silence  my  con- 
stant complaints  that  he  should  leave  so  important  a  port  as 
Honolulu  exposed  to  the  liability  of  making  the  greatest  mis- 
takes, endangering,  if  not  actually  causing,  the  loss  of  the 
King's  sovereignty,  unless  I,  who  was  still  supported  by  the 
American  Board,  were  constantly  turned  aside  from  my  ap- 
propriate duties  to  attend  to  his. 

During  the  life  of  Kinau  and  before  the  birth  of  the  Prin- 
cess Victoria,  the  subject  of  the  education  of  her  children 


*  Paul  Kanoa,  still  alive. 

f  Husband  of  Kinau  and  father  of  Kamehamehas  IV.  and  V.,  and 
Princess  Victoria. 


242  Appendix  I. 


was  freely  discussed  between  us.  One  child  was  with  tht 
King ;  another,  the  eldest,  was  with  the  Governor  of  Kauai ; 
and  the  other  at  Maui  with  Hoapili.  These  discussions  re- 
sulted in  an  understanding  that,  if  a  boarding-school  could 
be  established  by  the  Mission  for  their  education,  she  would 
favor  and  support  it.  This  being  settled,  I  communicated 
with  Mr.  Richards,  who  brought  the  business  before  the  Mis- 
sion. Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke  were  appointed  teachers  of  this 
school,  but  the  plan  of  the  house,  the  details  throughout,  fell 
to  my  share — the  credit  to  others. 

With  the  increased  intercourse  of  foreigners  increased  the 
difficulties  of  carrying  on  the  Government  and  the  danger 
to  the  sovereignty  of  the  King.  The  English  Consul,  not- 
withstanding the  proportion  of  British  subjects  was  small, 
was  most  active  in  hostility,  claiming  for  his  Government 
almost  the  rights  of  a  protectorate.  As  precautionary  meas- 
ures, the  King,  to  whose  councils  I  was  not  yet  admitted, 
leased  to  Brinsmade,  Ladd  and  Hooker,  citizens,  all  the  un- 
occupied lands  in  the  islands. 

This  being  known  to  the  British  Consul,  he  increased  his 
demands  upon  the  Government,  and  wrote  to  the  Admiral  at 
Valparaiso  for  a  force  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  obtain  jus- 
tice. Just  at  this  period,  in  the  spring  of  1842,  it  was  deter- 
mined to  send  Mr.  Richards  to  Europe,  and  the  King  sent 
for  me  to  visit  him  at  Lahaina.  He  there  requested  me  to 
take  the  place  of  Mr.  Richards  while  he  might  be  absent. 
This  I  declined,  not  wishing  to  lecture ;  but  making  known 
my  opinions  as  to  the  immediate  necessity  of  collecting  and 
preserving  a  revenue,  distinct  from  that  of  the  King  and 
chiefs,  for  the  purposes  of  Government  and  for  the  payment 
of  debts,  as  well  as  some  provision  for  the  transaction  of  busi- 
ness with  foreigners ;  the  King,  with  much  hesitation  on  the 
part  of  the  chiefs,  adopted  my  plan. 

This  resulted  in  the  appointment  of  a  Treasury  Board,*  of 


*  May  15,  1842. 


Honolulu,  243 


which  I  was  commissioned  as  a  member,  with  general  pow- 
ers to  act  as  interpreter  and  to  transact  business  with  all  for- 
eigners. This  was  better  denned  in  1843  by  my  appointment 
as  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs.* 

During  the  nine  months  preceding  the  provisional  cession 
of  the  islands  to  Great  Britain,  we  had  so  far  arranged  the 
finances  as  to  have  regular  books  of  accounts,  a  regular  sys- 
tem of  receiving  the  taxes  in  produce,  and  converting  them 
into  money ;  we  had  paid  the  most  pressing  debts,  and  had 
cash  enough  in  the  chest  to  establish  a  pretty  good  credit  for 
the  Government.  My  salary  was  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  per  annum. 

The  French  frigate  Ambuscade ',  Capt.  Mallet,  arrived  at 
Honolulu,  making  similar  demands  to  those  of  La  Place, 
with  an  intent,  so  far  as  I  could  judge,  of  taking  possession 
of  the  islands.  I  was  not  yet  appointed  as  Secretary  of  State, 
and  as  the  demands  were  made  against  the  King,  I  could 
only  meet  them  by  writing  the  King's  letters  in  reply. 

No  one  can  tell  how  much  I  suffered  of  anxiety  and  men- 
tal labor  on  this  occasion,  but  the  result  was  that  Capt.  Mal- 
let consented  to  refer  all  these  matters  to  France,  when  the 
Hawaiian  Government  would  be  represented  by  Messrs.  Rich- 
ards and  Haalilio. 

The  British  Consul,  fearing  the  influence  of  Mr.  Richards 
in  London,  had  taken  his  departure  for  England  in  the  most 
secret  manner,  leaving  the  Consulate  with  Alexander  Simp- 
son, an  avowed  advocate  of  the  annexation  of  these  islands 
to  Great  Britain,  and  a  personal  enemy  of  Governor  Kekua- 
naoa  and  myself;  and  as  this  unacceptable  person  had  been 
thrust  upon  us  in  such  an  unceremonious  manner,  the  Gov- 
ernor, by  my  advice,  refused  to  acknowledge  him,  and  they 
refused  an  exequatur. 

The  Carysfort,  Lord  George  Paulet,  arrived  in  February, 
with  instructions  from  the  Admiral  to  place  himself  under 


*  November  2,  1843. 


244  Appendix  I. 


the  direction  of  the  Consul.  He  acknowledged  Mr.  Simpson 
as  such,  and  in  obedience  to  his  orders,  the  most  unjust,  ex- 
travagant and  cruel  demands  were  made  and  enforced  at  the 
cannon's  mouth.  Some  of  these  demands  were  acquiesced 
in,  but  when  they  became  so  outrageous,  with  new  ones  com- 
ing forward  every  day,  the  King  declared  he  would  bear  it  no 
longer.  "  They  might  take  what  they  pleased,  he  would  give 
no  more."  I  said:  "They  want  your  islands,  and  are  deter- 
mined to  have  them  by  cession  or  by  conquest.  If  they  take 
possession  by  force,  you  will  have  no  redress ;  they  will  keep 
your  islands  forever,  but  if  you  cede  to  Lord  George  Paulet 
for  the  time  beings  and  refer  to  Great  Britain  as  umpire,  the 
justice  of  your  cause  can  be  made  so  clear  that  you  are  sure 
to  receive  back  your  sovereignty  in  due  time." 

The  King  and  chiefs  considered  this,  and  I  was  directed 
to  make  the  proposal  to  Lord  George.  He  referred  to  Mr. 
Simpson,  who  gladly  accepted  the  cession  upon  my  own 
terms. 

Intimations  of  what  was  going  on  getting  abroad,  the 
French  and  American  Consuls  conceived  the  idea  of  advis- 
ing the  King  to  cede  his  islands  to  the  United  States  and 
France  until  Great  Britain  should  do  us  justice. 

This  I  opposed,  although  all  the  men  of  influence  and 
wealth  were  irr  favor  of  the  project.  They  petitioned  the 
King,  offered  him  a  deed  of  cession  to  sign  ;  but  Kameha- 
meha  III.  in  this,  as  in  every  instance  that  has  come  to  my 
knowledge,  stood  by  me  and  supported  my  policy. 

After  the  restoration  by  Admiral  Thomas,  during  which  I 
had  a  sharp  contest  in  mitigating  the  terms,  until  the  Admiral 
said  he  would  not  restore  the  flag  unless  they  were  accepted, 
I  set  about  in  earnest  to  carry  into  operation  my  plan  for  the 
permanency  of  the  Government,  which  I  had  already  made 
known  to  the  King.  It  was  to  unite  the  foreign  with  the  na- 
tive element  as  subjects  and  as  officers  of  Government.  Mr. 
Paty  had  already  been  appointed  Collector  of  Customs. 


Honolulu.  245 


A  lawyer  was  needed.  I  had  requested  Mr.  Richards  to  send 
one  from  either  the  United  States  or  England  by  the  earliest 
opportunity,  but  circumstances  were  urgent,  and  hearing  of 
the  arrival  of  one  from  Oregon,*  I  engaged  him  on  my  own 
responsibility  until  the  Council  could  be  assembled.  The 
chiefs  made  great  objection  to  the  employment  of  another 
foreigner,  objected  to  his  pay,  etc.  ;  and  it  was  only  upon  my 
personal  guarantee  for  his  conduct  and  character,  and  prom- 
ise to  find  the  means  of  paying  him  without  embarrassment 
to  other  branches  of  the  Government,  that  I  gained  my  point. 
He  was  commissioned,  and  with  his  free  consent,  placed 
under  my  control.  I  was  now  Secretary  of  Foreign  Affairs, 
besides  having  the  responsibility  of  the  Treasury  and  matters 
in  general.  The  effort  to  induce  foreigners  to  take  the  oath 
of  allegiance,  the  imposition  of  the  five  per  cent,  duty,  the 
license  system,  together  with  the  firm  and  bold  stand  taken 
by  Mr.  Ricord,  made  me  many  enemies  out  of  old  friends, 
who  did  not  like  to  see  affairs  taking  such  a  direction. 

The  sentiment  among  the  foreign  community  had  obtained 
considerable  permanence  that  they  were  not  long  to  be  sub- 
ject to  native  rule.  The  French  and  English  favored  the 
idea,  exempting  their  subjects  from  trial  except  by  a  jury  of 
their  own  countrymen.  Efforts  were  made  to  oust  me.  A 
petition  was  presented  to  the  King  by  the  American  Com- 
missioner,! signed  by  a  majority  of  the  citizens  of  that  Repub- 
lic, for  my  removal.  The  King  appointed  a  Commission  to 
hear  the  case ;  they  reported,  no  cause  of  complaint,  and  I 
resigned  my  place  of  Secretary  of  State  in  favor  of  Mr.  Wyl- 
lie.  Mr.  Jarves  had  already  revived  the  Polynesian  (news- 
paper), which  was  eventually  purchased  by  Government,  and 
he  made  an  officer  of  the  Crown  under  my  responsibility. 

At  this  period  Mr.  Richards  returned  from  Europe  after 

*  John  Ricord,  an  able  lawyer,  versed  in  the  civil  as  well  as  common 
laws,  drafter  of  the  laws  of  1846. 
f  Mr.  George  Brown. 


246  Appendix  I. 


an  absence  of  three  years,  and  whatever  may  be  said  in  praise 
of  his  labors  in  organizing  and  holding  together  the  incon- 
gruous elements  of  Government  after  his  return,  no  one  will 
doubt  my  agency  while  he  was  absent,  and  I  venture  to  assert 
that,  if  I  had  then  resigned,  you*  would  not  have  held  together 
three  months  in  face  of  the  opposition  on  Maui,  to  the  "  For- 
eign Officers,"  and  of  the  "Belgian  Contract."  Mr.  Ricord 
did  the  King  good  service  in  ridding  the  islands  of  that  hum- 
bug. He  was  just  the  man  for  the  times,  and  without  him 
or  some  lawyer,  we  should  have  been  involved  in  difficulties 
inextricable,  not  to  say  fatal.  Am  I  not  entitled  to  the 
credit  of  withstanding  and  thwarting  the  proposal  to  assume 
the  debts  and  mortgaged  property  of  Ladd  &  Co.  ?  Did  I 
not  wind  up  the  Arbitration  ? 

The  Land  Commission  was  my  idea.  It  was  promised  before 
your  arrival,  and  established  as  soon  as  possible.  It  had  been 
employed  a  year  or  two  upon  claims  of  foreigners  principally, 
but  no  claims  of  natives  could  be  decided  until  the  breaking 
up  of  the  old  feudal  system  which  allowed  to  the  King,  chiefs 
and  people  an  interest  in  the  soil,  the  tenure  of  each  subject 
to  the  will  of  his  superior.  The  King  and  chiefs  labored  in 
vain  for  two  years  to  make  some  division  among  themselves 
which  would  enable  each  to  own  some  land  independently. 
It  could  not  be  done.  There  was  no  one  but  myself  had  the 
knowledge,  and  I  may  say  the  resolution,  to  act  efficiently. 
I  therefore  volunteered  my  services  to  the  King,  and  on 
condition  of  his  appointing  as  my  fellow-laborers  those  whom 
I  named,  pledged  myself  to  make  the  division. f     You  know 


*  The  Cabinet  then  consisting  of  John  Young,  Judd,  Wyllie,  Rich- 
ards, and  Ricord  as  Attorney-General. 

f  The  book  in  which  this  record  was  made  is  called  the  "  Mahele 
Book,"  or  Book  of  Division.  It  contains  a  complete  list  of  all  the  lands 
in  the  kingdom,  with  releases  by  the  chiefs  to  the  King  of  the  lands  they 
surrendered,  and  releases  to  the  chiefs  of  the  lands  divided  off  to  them 
as  their  share.     It  is  dated  from  January  27th  to  March  7,  1848. 


Honolulu.  247 


that  the  work  was  done,  and  how  thoroughly ;  but  you  can 
never  know  what  obstacles  had  to  be  encountered ;  whose 
feelings  were  hurt ;  whose  rights,  in  his  or  her  estimation, 
were  disregarded ;  but  I  have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing 
that,  on  the  whole,  the  division  was  fair,  and  a  great  blessing 
to  the  Hawaiian  nation. 

The  inefficiency  and  inexperience  of  Mr.  Young*  made  it 
necessary  for  some  one  to  aid  him  in  his  department.  I  had, 
upon  the  organization  of  the  Government  in  1846,  charge  of 
various  important  branches  of  business  that  belonged  to  the 
Interior  Department,  but  having  now  succeeded  in  placing 
the  best  available  men  in  power,  I  desired  to  give  my  whole 
attention  to  my  own  Department — that  of  Finance.  Mr. 
Young  asked  my  assistance.  I  declined,  and  Mr.  Richards 
promised  to  do  what  he  required.  At  the  same  time,  the 
care  of  the  Government  vessels,  the  prison  labor,  public 
buildings,  etc.,  etc.,  were  left  on  my  hands.  I  remonstrated 
with  Mr.  Young,  and  he  blamed  Mr.  Richards. 

Finally,  I  was  compelled  by  these  circumstances  to  assist 
Mr.  Young  and  release  Mr.  Richards.  I  did  not  interfere 
with  the  Courts  after  the  appointment  of  Judge  Lee,  nor  did 
I  ever  influence  or  control  the  Land  Commission,  but  there 
was  a  feeling  in  the  minds  of  many  that  I  assumed  too  much 
— so  strong  a  feeling  that  one  of  the  employes  of  the  Govern- 
ment thought  it  right  to  bring  against  me,  before  the  King, 
sixteen  charges  and  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  specifica- 
tions, the  great  object  of  which  was  to  show  that  I  had  usurped 
the  duties  of  the  Minister  of  the  Interior ! 

You  were  one  of  my  Judges.  I  need  say  no  more  upon 
♦  his  subject. 

Up  to  1849,  and  I  may  say,  up  to  1859,  every  available 
source  of  revenue  to  the  Government  except  the  poll  tax, 
was  of  my  own  devising,  and  the  poll-tax  itself  was,  by  my 

*  Mr.  John  Young,  or  Keoni  Ana,  a  half-caste,  a  favorite  of  Katne- 
hameha  III.,  and  a  most  courtly  gentleman. 


248  Appendix  I. — Honoluhi. 

advice,  diverted  from  being  a  perquisite  of  the  King  to  be  a 
revenue  of  the  Government. 

All  the  credit  I  claim  for  agency  in  the  Department  of 
Foreign  Affairs  may  be  reduced  to  one  point :  your  appoint- 
ment  as  Minister,  which  would  never  have  happened  but  for 
me-  I  did,  however,  with  Judge  Lee,  face  the  music  on 
board  the  Gassendi,  and  I  negotiated  the  Treaties  with  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain,  although  I  cheerfully  re- 
signed to  Mr.  Jarves  the  credit  of  the  one,  and  to  you  of  the 
other.  If  my  policy  had  been  carried  out  with  France,  we 
should  have  had  a  French  treaty  in  similar  terms  with  those 
long  ago. 

Perhaps  I  may  be  wrong  in  calling  this  my  policy,  since  it 
was  also  that  of  Lord  Palmerston,  with  whom  I  settled  the 
conditions  of  the  Treaty. 

I  find  that  the  method  most  people  take  to  get  credit  for 
good  works  is  to  blow  their  own  trumpet.  This  trumpeting 
you  will  not  lay  to  my  charge,  unless  in  the  present  instance 
I  am  guilty  of  it.    If  I  am,  excuse  it  for  once,  and  believe  me, 

Truly  yours, 

G.   P.    JUDD. 


APPENDIX    II. 


RECENT  HISTORY  OF  THE   HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 

Alexander  Liholiho  came  to  the  throne  December  15, 
1854,  as  Kamehameha  IV.  He  was  an  amiable  and  talented 
Prince,  of  engaging  manners  and  accomplishments.  The 
crowning  act  of  his  reign  was  the  building  of  the  Queen's 
Hospital,  subscriptions  for  which  he  personally  solicited,  and 
whose  corner-stone  he  laid  in  1859.  This  noble  charity,  now 
considerably  enlarged  and  well  supported  (by  a  tax  of  two 
dollars  on  every  passenger  coming  into  this  kingdom),  is 
an  enduring  monument  to  his  memory.  He  married  Emma 
Rooke,  daughter  of  Naea  and  Fanny  Young,  on  the  2d  of 
June,  1856,  and  on  the  20th  of  May,  1858,  the  Queen  gave 
birth  to  a  boy.  High  hopes  were  centered  on  this  *  Prince 
of  Hawaii,"  but  he  died  on  the  27th  of  August,  1862,  and 
the  bitterness  of  grief  greatly  affected  his  father,  who  followed 
him  to  the  grave  November  30,  1863,  aged  only  29. 

THE   ANGLICAN   CHURCH. 

In  October,  1862,  a  Bishop  of  the  Anglican  Church  and 
staff  of  clergy  arrived  at  the  islands,  in  response  to  an  auto- 
graph letter  of  Kamehameha  IV.' s  to  Queen  Victoria,  re- 
questing a  chaplain  for  the  royal  family.  Considerable  feel- 
ing was  aroused  at  this  intrusion  upon  the  comity  of  mis- 
sions," but  the  Right  Rev.  T.  Nettleship  Staley,  Bishop  of 
Honolulu,  was  received  with  great  favor  by  the  King,  who 
assisted  him  by  translating  the  Prayer-book  into  Hawaiian. 
11*  (249) 


250  Appendix  II 


For  a  while  the  novelty  of  the  liturgical  services  attracted 
the  Hawaiian  mind.  Dr.  Staley  was  succeeded,  after  a  few 
years,  by  the  Right  Rev.  Alfred  Willet,  an  earnest  worker,  who 
reports  in  1880  to  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel,  that  "  the  interest  in  the  movement,  both  in  England 
and  at  the  islands,  has  lost  its  life — that  the  cathedral  is  not 
yet  built,  and  the  fund  for  its  erection  is  at  a  stand-still."  The 
number  embraced  in  the  congregations  is  given  at  150,  and 
the  communicants  at  70.  Considerable  work  is,  however, 
done  by  the  English  Mission  in  the  cause  of  education ;  the 
Bishop's  College  School,  containing  52  boys;  St.  Andrew's 
Priory,  79  girls  ;  and  the  church  at  Honolulu  is  supplying  a 
real  want  to  Episcopalians. 

REIGN    OF   KAMEHAMEHA   V. 

Lot  Kamehameha  succeeded  his  brother  as  Kamehameha 
V.  He  appeared  to  be  dissatisfied  with  the  democratic  tend- 
encies of  the  people,  and,  averring  that  he  could  not  con- 
scientiously take  the  oath  to  the  Constitution,  called  a  con- 
vention consisting  of  the  representatives  of  the  people,  the 
nobles  and  himself,  to  frame  a  new  one.  After  long  discus- 
sion, it  appeared  to  the  King  that  the  Convention  was  not 
likely  to  agree  upon  the  article  in  regard  to  the  property 
qualifications  of  voters,  and  he  accordingly  abrogated  the 
Constitution  of  1852,  and  promulgated  a  new  one  on  the  24th 
of  August,  1864. 

This  coup  d'etat  produced  no  little  disquiet,  but  by  degrees 
the  new  Constitution  was  acquiesced  in,  and  after  a  few  years 
the  full  number  of  votes  were  cast  at  popular  elections.  The 
main  feature  of  the  new  Constitution  was  the  concentration 
of  governmental  powers  and  the  uniting  of  both  Houses  of 
Legislature  into  one  Assembly,  which  after  sixteen  years  of 
experience,  seems  as  well  adapted  as  the  bicameral  system 
to  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  this  kingdom. 

Kamehameha  V.  possessed  firmness  of  character,  verging 


Honolulu.  251 


upon  obstinacy,  but  trusted  his  constitutional  advisers.  His 
reign  is  marked  by  the  establishment  of  the  leper  asylum  at 
Molokai,  the  building  of  a  fine  stone  hotel  at  Honolulu,  and 
the  commencement  of  the  new  Government  building,  which 
was  completed  in  1874,  at  a  cost  of  $120,000.  In  1865  a 
line  of  steamers  was  established  between  San  Francisco  and 
Honolulu,  which  has  developed  into  a  continuous  monthly 
service,  by  good  steamships  of  3.000  tons,  to  the  Australian 
Colonies,  stopping  at  Honolulu  each  way,  to  which  line  the 
Government  pays  a  subsidy  of  $1,000  per  month.  This  year, 
1865,  Queen  Emma  visited  Europe  and  America. 

In  1868,  a  crazy  fanatic,  named  Kaona,  resisted  the  author- 
ities at  Kona,  Hawaii,  and  after  two  murders,  he  and  his 
party  were  arrested,  and  brought  to  Honolulu,  and  finally 
the  main  movers  were  tried  and  sentenced  to  imprisonment. 

In  1869  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  visited  the  islands.  On 
the  nth  of  December,  1872,  Kamehameha  V.  died,  without 
issue.  His  sister,  Victoria  Kamamalu,  had  died  May  29, 
1866;  no  successor  had  been  proclaimed,  and  the  throne 
was  vacant. 

REIGN    OF    LUNALILO. 

The  Legislative  Assembly  was  called,  and  on  the  8th  of 
January,  1873,  it  elected  as  King,  by  a  unanimous  vote, 
Prince  William  Charles  Lunalilo.  This  amiable  chief  was 
exceedingly  popular  with  the  mass  of  the  Hawaiians,  and 
immediately  proposed  amendments  to  the  Constitution  to  re- 
store the  two  Houses  of  Legislature.  His  Cabinet  com- 
menced negotiations  with  the  United  States  Minister  for  a 
treaty  of  reciprocity  with  the  United  States,  offering  towards 
compensation  the  use  of  the  "  Pearl  Lochs  "  at  Ewa,  Oahu,  for  a 
naval  station.  The  King's  constitution  began  to  weaken, 
showing  signs  of  consumption.  It  was  quite  evident  that  he 
would  not  live  to  complete  the  negotiations,  and,  meanwhile, 
a  factious  opposition  had  been  excited  against  any  alienation 
of  Hawaiian    territory,   however  great  the  advantages  that 


252  Appendix  II 


might  be  gained,  and  the  negotiations  were  dropped.  It 
September,  1873,  a  mutiny  of  the  troops  occurred  at  the  bar- 
racks, but  nothing  was  done  to  them,  and  they  were  finally 
disbanded,  without  bloodshed,  but  with  a  certain  loss  of  au- 
thority on  the  part  of  the  Government. 

The  King  sought  health  by  a  residence  at  Kailua,  Hawaii, 
but  failed  rapidly,  and  finally  died  at  Honolulu,  on  the  3d 
day  of  February,  1874.  Lunalilo  founded  by  his  will  an  in- 
firmary for  aged  and  poor  Hawaiians,  which  is  now  in  process 
of  erection. 

REIGN    OF    KALAKAUA. 

Again  the  nobles  and  representatives  were  called  to  elect  a 
sovereign  for  Hawaii.  The  agents  of  both  Queen  Dowager 
Emma  and  Hon.  David  Kalakaua  (the  most  prominent  male 
chief  surviving)  had  been  active  during  this  interregnum  of 
nine  days.  The  election  was  held  February  12,  1874,  and 
though  the  vote  stood  thirty-seven  for  Kalakaua  and  only  six 
for  Emma,  the  popularity  of  the  latter  among  the  people  soon 
showed  itself  in  the  shape  of  a  riot,  which  resulted  in  the 
sacking  of  a  part  of  the  court-house,  and  in  assaults  on  many 
of  the  representatives.  The  apparent  object  of  the  mob  was 
to  coerce  the  Assembly  into  taking  another  vote,  and  to  elect 
the  one  of  their  choice.  The  army  had  been  disbanded,  the 
police  proved  ineffectual,  the  volunteer  troops  were  divided 
in  their  sympathies,  and  matters  were  becoming  serious,  when, 
on  request,  troops  were  landed  from  the  United  States  ships 
of  war  Tuscarora  and  Portsmouth,  and  her  British  Majesty's 
ship  Tcnedos,  who  speedily  restored  order.  Many  arrests 
were  made,  and  about  one  hundred  persons  were  punished 
by  the  Courts  for  riot.  It  is  difficult  to  say  what  the  result 
would  have  been  but  for  the  opportune  presence  of  ships  of 
war  in  port  at  the  time.  His  Majesty  Kalakaua  'formed  his 
Government,  and  made  a  royal  progress  throughout  the  group, 
and  the  disaffection  became  allayed. 

In  November,  1874,  accompanied  by  a  small  suite,  the 


Honolulu.  253 


King  visited  the  United  States,  and  was.  cordially  received 
by  the  President  and  Cabinet ;  and  upon  all  classes  of  peo 
pie,  where  he  travelled,  he  produced  a  favorable  impression. 
His  visit  attracted  the  attention  of  the  United  States  to  these 
islands,  and  immediately  negotiations  were  reopened  at  Wash- 
ington by  Hons.  E.  H.  Allen  and  H.  A.  P.  Carter,  for  a  con- 
vention of  commercial  reciprocity  between  the  two  countries, 
which  was  ratified  by  the  Senate,  and  which  went  finally  into 
operation  by  appropriate  legislation  in  both  countries,  in  Sep- 
tember, 1876.  The  Treaty  is  to  remain  in  force  for  seven 
years,  and  for  twelve  months  after  notice  of  its  termination. 
The  results  of  this  Treaty,  which  admits  free  of  duty  into  the 
United  States  the  sugar  and  rice  produced  at  the  islands,  are 
so  marked,  in  the  way  of  calling  capital  and  labor  to  the  isl- 
ands, and  the  rapid  development  of  its  agricultural  resources, 
as  to  call  for  some  statistics. 

The  exports  of  sugar  were  in  1862 3,000,603  lbs. 

1868 18,312,926    " 

1878 38,431,458    " 

1879 48,559»927    " 

The  exports  of  rice  and  paddy  were  in  1862  . .        921,707  lbs. 

"       1868..        903,404    •* 

"       1878..     5,552,659    " 

"  "  "  "       1879..     4,831,628    " 

The  total  value  of  imports  was  in  1868 $1,800,046  18 

u       1878 3,046,36970 

"  "         exports      "       1868 1,898,215  63 

"       1878 3,548,471  84 

For  the  year  1879  the  exports  were $3,787,717  97 

H  "  imports  were 3, 742, 978  39 


The  total  receipts  of  the  Gov- 
ernment for  the  years 

1860-61  were $668,186  56 

1870-71      "   964,956  35 

1878-79      "   1,703,736  88 


The  total  expenditures   of  the 
Government  for  the  years 

1860-61  were $681,788  83 

1870-71      "    969.784  14 

1878-79      M    1,495,697  48 


The  Treaty  of  Reciprocity  has  greatly  stimulated  the  trade 


254  Appendix  IT. 

of  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  the  islands  are  now  large  consumers 
of  the  produce  of  California  and  the  Territories. 

The  present  national  debt  of  the  islands  is  $388,900. 

The  number  of  vessels  under  the  Hawaiian  flag  in  i860 
were  49,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  5,030  tons.  In  1880 
they  were  69,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  11,410  tons.  Of 
these  eight  are  steamers,  all  but  one  built  in  the  United  States, 
as  well  as  nearly  all  of  the  other  vessels. 

The  population  of  the  group  was  by  the 

Census  of  1832 130,313 

"        1836 108,579 

44        1850 84,165 

44        i860 69,700 

44        1866 62,959 

1872 * 56,897 

1878 57,985 

The  decrease  of  the  native  population  from  1872  to  1878  was 
4,023  ;  increase  of  foreign  population  for  the  same  period 
was  5,111. 

The  amount  expended  by  the  Government  for  education 
for  two  years  ending  March  31,  1880,  was  $147,076.65.  On 
the  1st  of  January,  1880,  there  were  210  schools  in  the  isl- 
ands, with  an  attendance  of  7,164  pupils. 

The  Judiciary  of  the  kingdom  consists  of  a  Supreme  Court, 
with  three  Judges,  holding  commissions  for  life ;  Circuit 
Courts  on  the  islands  of  Hawaii,  Maui  and  Kauai ;  and  Dis- 
trict or  Police  Courts  in  each  of  the  twenty-six  districts. 
The  methods  of  procedure  are  closely  allied  to  those  of  the 
States  of  the  American  Union. 

Immigration. — During  the  past  two  years  there  have  been 
introduced  into  this  kingdom,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Government,  930  Portuguese  from  the  Madeira  Islands,  and 
1,180  Polynesians,  mainly  from  the  Gilbert  Islands.  In  the 
business  of  procuring  immigrants  from  the  South  Seas,  the 
Government  have  four  vessels  engaged,  and  much  is  hoped 


Honolulu.  255 


from  this  scheme  as  supplying  a  population  analogous  to  the 
Hawaiian. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  now  from  8,000  to  10,000 
Chinese  in  the  islands.  Thus  far  they  have  proved  valuable 
to  its  agricultural  and  commercial  interests,  for  the  sugar 
plantations  depend  largely  upon  them  for  labor,  and  rice  is 
cultivated  by  them  exclusively.  They  are  now  erecting  a 
Christian  church  at  Honolulu  to  cost  $6,000.  The  lands 
suitable  for  rice  are  now  generally  taken  up,  and  it  is  quite 
doubtful  that  the  islands  will  become  a  Chinese  colony,  as 
predicted  by  some. 

There  are  now  fifty-six  churches  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Hawaiian  Evangelical  Association — the  successors  of  the  A. 
B.  C.  F.  M. — with  an  aggregate  membership  of  between  7,000 
and  8,000  souls.  These  churches  are  self-sustaining,  and 
contributed  last  year  $4,428.96  for  foreign  missionary  work. 
A  training-school  for  candidates  for  the  ministry  is  now  pros- 
pering, with  fifteen  pupils,  under  the  presidency  of  Dr.  C.  M. 
Hyde.  The  religious  wants  of  the  foreign  population  are 
supplied  by  the  Fort  Street  church  and  bethel  at  Honolulu, 
and  independent  churches  at  Hilo  and  Kohala,  Hawaii,  at 
Haiku  on  Maui  and  Lihue,  Kauai.  The  Roman  Catholic  re- 
ligion seems  to  hold  its  own  among  the  natives,  but  no  recent 
statistics  are  accessible. 

The  future  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  is  inevitably  connected 
with  that  of  the  Pacific  coast  of  America,  and  being  the  only 
group  holding  such  a  position,  statesmen  of  the  United  States, 
impressed  with  the  importance  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  as  the 
theatre  of  great  events  in  the  near  future,  have  ever  been 
willing  to  aid  the  friends  of  the  Hawaiians  in  sustaining  an 
independent  Government,  founded  and  administered  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  principles  developed  by  the  civilization  of 
the  age.  So  long  as  such  a  Government  is  maintained  by  the 
Hawaiians,  it  is  undoubtedly  for  the  best  interests  of  all  na- 
tions that  it  should  be  sustained  in  its  independence.     If, 


256  Appendix  II 


however,  intrigue  from  without  or  dissensions  within  should 
threaten  the  integrity  of  the  Government,  or  should  attempts 
be  made  to  make  the  islands  the  arena  of  events  inimical  to 
the  interests  of  foreign  commerce  or  of  the  neighboring 
States,  it  may  become  the  duty  of  the  United  States  to  pro- 
tect the  interests  of  the  Pacific  States  by  the  exercise  of  an 
active  influence,  which  will  preserve  the  institutions  estab- 
lished by  the  devoted  labors  of  American  missionaries  and 
other  friendly  foreigners.  A.  F.  J. 

Honolulu,  October  1,  1880. 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Abbott,  Lawrence 206 

Agriculture,  Hawaiian 317,  253 

Albert,  Prince  204 

Allen,  Judge  E.  H 194 

Annexation  to  the  United  States 227 

Armstrong,  the  Rev.  Richard,  90,  179  ; 

address  of     212  ;  224 

Army,  a  standing,  proposed 220 

Bates,  Judge  A .  B 175,  179 

Belgian  contract,  the 106,  128, 

144,  167,  246 

Bingham,  the  Rev.  Hiram 3,5,9, 

12,  15,  30,  37,  47,  60,  95 

Bishop,  the  Rev.  Artemas  19 

Boki n,  21,  52  ;  lost  at  sea...     53 

Brinsmade,  P.  A.. . . .  .106-111,  134,  167,  243 

Broglie,  the  Due  de 201 

"Byron's"  or  Hilo  Bay 62 

California,  gold  discovered  in,  175; 
epidemics  from,  177 ;  emigration  to, 
180;  from,  191;  adventurers  from...   219 

M  Carysfort,"  visit  of 118,  243 

Catholics  imprisoned  82,  83 

their  present  success 255 

Charlton,  Richard 217 

Cloaks,  royal 28,  152 

Censuses  of  various  years 254 

Chamberlain,  Levi 3 

Children  given  away 51 

of  missionaries 67,116,  170 

Chinese  in  the  Islands   255 

Churches,  Hawaiian 255 

self-supporting 105 

Coan,  Mrs.  Fidelia,  63  ;  letter  from....    ^55 

Cook,  Capt.  James 42,  97,  229 

Cooke,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Amos 94,  128, 

179,  242 

Damon,  the  Rev.  S.  C 130 

Diell,  the  Rev.  John 55,  130 

Dillon,  Consul 172,  184,  189,  199 

Diner  sa  ns  vin  126 

Diseases  that  have  prevailed ...  90,  177,  222 

Dress  at  the  Islands 5,  9,  13, 

37,  40,  76,  142,  152 

Education 20,  30,  69, 

75,  78,  9°i  95,  1 8c 

Ellis,  the  Rev.  William 6,  230 

Emma,  Queen 249 


English  seizure  of  the  Islands iao 

restoration  of  them 123 

declaration 134 

Epidemics 90,  177,  222 

Feasts,  Hawaiian 166,  175 

Feather  cloaks,  royal 28,  152 

Finch,  Capt.,  reception  of   37 

French  interference 80,  92, 

116,  185,  190 

seizure  of  Tahiti 115 

General  Meetings  of  Missionaries..    19 

Goodrich,  the  Rev.  Joseph ._ 3 

Government,  the  old  Hawaiian 79 

newer  systems 151,  236,  247,  250 

Green,  the  Rev.  J.  S 89 

Haalilio,  108,  in,  121, 131 ;  his  death,  139 

Hall,  E.  O 131 

Hawaii,  old   230 

Hawaiian  agriculture -  217,  253 

Islands,  seizure  of 120 

restoration  of.   _. .   123 

language,  24  •  reduced  to  writ- 
ing, i5»;  publications  in 78 

chiefs  :  household  customs,  7,  12, 

141 ;  dress 14,  16,  37,  40,  76,  142,  152 

churches 105,  255 

scenery  of. 2,  24,  29,  46,  63 

government,     divides    the     land 

among  the  people 177,  212 

character .     7,236 

islanders,  dress  of..  ..5,  9,  13,  20; 

their  food.      10 

Hilo,  village  of. 62 

Hoapili   26,240 

Honolulu,  appearance  of,  2 ;  the  town 

described 233 

Idols 97 

Ii,  John 145 

Infanticide 34 

Immigration. 254 

Jarves,  J.  J.,  83,  102,  104,  136;  leaves 

the  Islands   172  ;  193, 208,  245,  248 

Jones,  Commodore 13c 

Judd,  Dr.  G.  P.,  40,  47,  63,  74,  80,  89, 
92,  95  ;  in  danger  in  Kilauea,  101  ; 
retires  from  the  mission,  no;  114, 
121,  128,  131 ;  secretary  of  state,  199, 

(257) 


258 


Index, 


PAGE 

159  ;  of  the  interior  and  of  finance, 
J37  \  J55i  T57  i  commissioner  extra- 
ordinary, 189 ;  209,  224 :  resigns  office, 
225  ;  letter  on  his  policy 239 

Gerrit,  death  of 85 

Kaahumanu,  Queen,  4,  6,  11, '14,  20, 

30,  37,  39  ;  her  death 47  ;  81,  96 

Kaili,  character  of 161 

Kalakaua,  King,  96  (note)  ;  accesrion 

of  . . .  252 

Kamehameha  I   12,  140,  145,  229 

II.  (Liholiho) 12,  13,  140,  230 

III.  (Kauikeaouli)  21,  24,  39,  51, 

62,  92,  108,  129,  145, 173  ;  cedes  lands 
to  the  people,  177,  212  ;  favors  an- 
nexation, 227  ;  his  death,  227,  230  ; 
character  of     228  ;  239,  244 

IV.   (Alexander    Liholiho)    birth 

°fi  59  ;  761  J79i  x82, 189,  205,  209,  210, 
220,  228  (note)  ;  his   accession,   234, 

249  ;  240 
V.    (Prince    Lot),    179,   189,   205, 

220,   228   (note)  ;  accession   of,   250 ; 

death 251 

Kaomi..; 239 

Kapiolani.  43,  96  ;  death 99 

Kekauluohi 58,139,  140 

Keopuolaui 61,  229 

Kilauea  64,  101 

Kinau,  47,  49,  52,  57  :  death,  84  ;  127, 

t                                                239,  241 
Kuakini 37 

Lahaina,  village  of. 88 

Lands  divided  among  the  people..  177, 

212,  246 

Language  of  the  Hawaiians 15,  24 

La  Place's  visit 82 

Lee,  Judge  Wm.,  169, 174,  188  ;  address 

by  ;..        214;  235,  248 

Loomis,  Elisha 6 

Lunalilo,  King 251 

Marin's  Journal 216 

Malo,  David   ...    145 

Marshall,  J.  F.  B 121,167 

Maternal  association 71 

Miller,  Consul 188 

Mission  to  England 189,  194 

Missionaries,  arrivals  of,  7T,  95  ;  return 

of,   73 ;   meetings  in    Honolulu,    19 ; 

deaths  of 169,  170 

— —  children 67,  117,  170 

Nahirnaena,  24  ;  her  death 60  ;  77,  230 

Napoleon,  Louis 200 

National  debt 254 

Ogden,  Miss 29,  171 

Palmerston,  Lord 198,  203,  205,  207 

Paulet,  Lord  George 118,  243 

Percival,  Capt     36 

Plants  introduced 216 


pagb 

Poem,  a  Hawaiian 85 

Pol}  gamy {^ 

Pomare,  Queen  of  Tahiti 115,  166 

Population  of  the  Islands 254 

Portrait  of  Louis  Philippe 173 

"  Potomac,"  visit  of 45 

President's  messages 37,  133.  193 

Punahou  school 95,  17c 

Reciprocity  Treaty 253 

Rice  culture 25  j 

Richards,  the  Rev.  William,  17,  26,  63, 
78,  80,  92,  94,  106,  136,  154,  168  ;  his 


aeatn   170  ;  177,  241,  243,  245,  247 

Ricord,  J 128,  136,  143,  168,  177,  245 

Royal  school.    75,  93,  154,  179 

Ruggles,  Samuel 19,  40,  44,  96 

"  St.  Mary's,"  visit  of. . .  192 

Sandalwood,  traffic  in 8 

Scenery  of  the  Islands 2,  24,  29,  46,  63 

Schools  for  adults 20,  30 

for  girls 88,  90,  180 

'- for  children 69,  75,  93,  95 

Secret  tribunal 224 

Severance,  L.   213,221 

Seward,  Wm.  H 209 

Small-pox  epidemic 222 

Staley,  Bishop  .. .    .  249 

-tewart,  the  Rev.  C.  S 6,  36 

Stribling,  Captain 130 

Sugar  culture   253 

Superstitions,  Hawaiian 142 

Tahiti,  seized  by  the  French 115 

Ten  Eyck,  Commissioner 167 

Thomas,  Admiral  Richard   . .   122,  125, 

135,  197,  206 

Traveling  in  the  Islands 23,  26,  63,  88 

Treaty  of  reciprocity 253 

Tromelin,  Admiral  de -       184,202 

Turril,  Judge 167,  189,  194 

U.  S.  Exploring  Expedition 100 

Victoria  Kamamalu,  birth,  76 ;  113, 

130;  death ..   251 

"  Virginie,"  visit  of 160 

Volcanoes 64,  101,  218 

Wailuku,  village  of 88 

Waipio  valley 46 

Washing  of  clothes,  primitive  method,     14 

Webster,  Daniel.     210 

Weddings  in  Honolulu 17 

Wheeler,  Daniel 74 

Whitman  massacre,  the 172 

Wilkes,  Captain 100,  211 

Willet,  the  Rev.  Alfred 250 

Wyllie,  Robert  Crichton,  143,  155;  sec- 
retary of  state,  159  ;  172, 184,  198,  207, 
211  ;  address  by,  215  ;  Dr.  Judd  s 
letter  to 239 

Young,  John 44,  146,  1/8,  194,  241 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below, 
or  on  the  date  to  which  renewed.  Renewals  only: 

Tel.  No.  642-3405 
Renewals  may  be  made  4  days  prior  to  date  due. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


MAY  1  8 1971  i  7 


RSTUR' 


MAY  SO  EH 


'm?.;:.\ 


#* 


***■ 


* 


x  &*  ^ 4 


*ssr 


H— 


t  noi  a    KAM  o  >7i  General  Library 

(P2?0m0)4^A132  Unive»^crfgliforni.         rj 


LD  2lA-50m-9.'58  University  ot  ^aurornia 

(6889sl0)476B  Berkeley 


